Questions about Shorty Headers and order of upgrades

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ATRepair

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Will the BBK shorty headers bolt in or do I need to have an exhaust built?
Is the stock exhaust system capable of handling these?

Would these be a good upgrade and in the correct order with my plans?
Over the next year or two in order:
-CAI (already installed AFE and looking at the Vararam)
-Diablo tuner (when they release the programs)
-87mm ported throttlebody
-Shorty headers (and 18" Mufflex) *EDIT* Now looking into ARH Longtubes
-*EDIT* V6 E-fan from Mopar conversion
-Torque converter and SharaDon valve body stage II
 
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09SMOKINHEMI

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I would save up some money for the ARH longtubes if i were you. They fit like a glove and give great performance. Also the only way to get a valvebody for your year is to send in a core to Sharadon. Not sure on the price for them to modify but i think it is high.

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Hemi450hp

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Unfortunately, the BBK headers only fit the 2wd models. With you being 4wd, your only options would be the JBA shorties or ARH longtubes. Longtubes are going to show twice the gain (25-30hp) where we are only seeing 12-15hp from the shorties.

You are going to see the biggest improvements from the Longtubes, Tuner, and tq converter. Those 3 mods will completely transform the truck and make it a lot more fun to drive.
 

Caldwell

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ATRepair - I hope you don't mind if I jump in with a question of my own.

I am leaning towards getting Shorty's in the future myself. I like the shortys simply because they keep the power towards the lower-mid RPM ranges. My question is when shopping for headers are the options of Ceramic, Chrome, Painted ETC ETC... whats the difference between the coatings ? does one really make that much of a difference ?

Matt I was hoping you may be able to shine some light on this.
 

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Shorties don't actually make more low end tq than longtubes. I see that posted on many different forums, but the reality is that longtubes show the gain across the entire rpm band whereas shorties typically show the biggest gains in the mid range. The key to not losing tq with longtubes is to run the correct size primaries. The larger the primaries, the higher in the rpm band the gains are going to come. With the BBK and JBA shorties having 1 3/4" primaries, they will not make tq any sooner than the ARH 1 3/4" longtubes. The Benefit to longtubes is that the longer primary tubes are going to increase the gains across a wider rpm range.

Having said all that, the difference between unfinished, painted, and ceramic coated is going to depend on the quality of metal used on the headers. On a mild steel header, the paint will burn off within a week and then they will start to rust. Because of this, I would never run a painted mild steel header. The ceramic coating is going to not only protect the finish of the header, but it will also help keep the heat inside the header primaries and prevent that heat from soaking up your engine bay.

On a stainless steel header, the coating is not as important. Stainless will not rust, so you don't have to worry about protecting the finish. The coating will still help keep engine bay temps down some and will look nicer in the long run.
 

TylerB

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Ceramic is the way to go for heat retention and coating longevity.
 

retiredfireman

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x2 on the heat protection for the ceramics.
the under the hood temps are noticeably lower since I did the ceramic coated shorties.
another bonus of the shorties , other than cost, is the ease of install, no other piping required for install.
 

BlkRamRt

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What about bbk vs jba shorties?
 

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x2 on the heat protection for the ceramics.
the under the hood temps are noticeably lower since I did the ceramic coated shorties.
another bonus of the shorties , other than cost, is the ease of install, no other piping required for install.

The ARH longtubes are actually bolton as well. They come with all stainless clamps and actually clamp right onto the factory exhaust...no welding required.
 

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What about bbk vs jba shorties?

No difference in performance that we have seen. Both perform the same. Only difference is that the JBA's are stainless and are CARB certified...they also fit the 4wd's.

If you have a 2WD and don't live in CA, then I would save the money and go with the ceramic coated BBK's.
 
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ATRepair

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Thanks for pointing out the 2wd vs 4wd compatibility. I didn't notice that.

It looks like THIS is the only option for me in ARH longtubes. I don't see any coating options. 24 RWHP without a tune seems fair for the price.
Didn't I recently read that they were making a complete exhaust with long headers?
 

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ARH doesn't offer a ceramic coating on their headers. We do have a few customers that had theirs coated locally though which runs anywhere from $200-$400.

As for the full exhaust, you are probably thinking of Stainless Works. They are coming out with a kit that will include longtubes and a full catback, but they have not released these yet. They have done the R&D, but don't have them available for sale yet.
 

Hemi450hp

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Also, we currently have 2 sets of the 1 3/4" in stock with cats and 2 sets of 1 3/4" in stock without cats. We are the only ARH dealer that actually stocks these units, so shipping is fast and free.
 
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ATRepair

ATRepair

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I would save up some money for the ARH longtubes if i were you. They fit like a glove and give great performance. Also the only way to get a valvebody for your year is to send in a core to Sharadon. Not sure on the price for them to modify but i think it is high.

Thanks for the experienced advise. I am strongly considering the ARH Longtubes. Might take a bit longer but I'm not ready for them now anyway. Hopefully next summer.
 

atmotocrosser

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Also, we currently have 2 sets of the 1 3/4" in stock with cats and 2 sets of 1 3/4" in stock without cats. We are the only ARH dealer that actually stocks these units, so shipping is fast and free.

What sort of deal can you make for a local guy? I'm just down the street from you and looking to build up my 13 Black Express RC 4x4 :evillol:
 

blkrstr21

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Also, we currently have 2 sets of the 1 3/4" in stock with cats and 2 sets of 1 3/4" in stock without cats. We are the only ARH dealer that actually stocks these units, so shipping is fast and free.

but you do also have sets with cats right?? will all the sensors fit as they should or will we have to get them put in?
 

Darkflow

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^ Re-read the post again man. You missed where he said they have 2 sets w/cats and 2 w/out cats.

To the OP, I agree with everyone who has said to just get ARH longtubes or the Stainless Works setup if they are out by the time your ready. Im in the same boat and ill be saving for the longtubes.
 

TylerB

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but you do also have sets with cats right?? will all the sensors fit as they should or will we have to get them put in?
I don't know about the catless version, but the set with cats includes all four bungs welded in and four harness extensions even though you only need two.
 
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operator

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I know its been sad before, but just to clarify, will the long tubes will bolt up to our stock piping with no modifications? and will it throw and check engine lights?
 

Hemi450hp

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The ARH longtubes do bolt up to the factory piping. You will have to make 1 cut in your factory piing as the ARH y-pipe ends about a foot short of the muffler. The Y-pipe then clamps into that short section of pipe with the clamps provided in the kit.

As for a check engine light, some guys get these and others don't. If you get a code, you can usually just put an o2 sensor spacer in there to pull the sensor out of the air stream a bit, or Hemifever can disable the rear sensors for you via custom tuning. While tuning is not required for longtubes, I highly recommend it to see the best gains.
 
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