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Radiator

Discussion in 'Engine & Performance' started by crazykid1994, Jul 15, 2019.

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  1. Hemi395

    Hemi395 Senior Member

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    ^^Great info here
     
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  2. blackbetty14

    blackbetty14 Senior Member

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    Larger radiator actually decreases airflow (efficiency to an extent) due to higher fin count, and added tubes. Which in turn increases static pressure which drops the CFM that the fans can pull air through the radiator. But there is no real way around with without increasing overall radiator size and keeping a single 1-1.25” single core. If you plan to upgrade look for a dual 1” or dual 1.25” core rads which are much better than cheap Chinese 3-4 core with only 1/2”-5/8” cores. Cheap brands like champion come to mind. Good brands like HOWE, griffin, Afco and be cool come to mind. I personally like HOWE and AFCO and run them on my 600+hp turbo motors.

    You might not get much out of a radiator swap due to ambient temps and humidity. My turbo LS runs a AFCO 31x19 and has dual 1” cores, I run a 160t stat and I run 70/30 distilled water/coolant with wetter and have the best dual Spal fans in a shroud and I still get 190 temps in the summer 90+. In cooler 60-70*F I can get temps as low as 165-170. My waterpump is also a high flow with a billet impeller which doubles flow below 3k and I still can’t get temps to my commanded temp with my fans set a 180/170 and 190/180 in a 2 speed config.

    If I were you I would be testing the Tstat or dropping the temp on that and matching fan activation to Tstat open temps. I don’t feel that the stock ram rad is undersized for 500hp. I think your ambient temps are raising the temperature differential. Since ambient is much higher the baseline for the radiator temp is much higher, even if you increase the capacity your still stuck with the higher ambient which will affect the larger rad the same way. Decreasing the Tstat temp will more than likely result in the same temps but just a slower up to temp speed.

    If you decide to upgrade the rad post your results.
     
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  3. blackbetty14

    blackbetty14 Senior Member

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    My 18 has the 850w fan, it’s the AC fan and it’s in conjunction with the mechanical fan.
     
  4. blackbetty14

    blackbetty14 Senior Member

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    240 is the beginning of being a problem. If I hit 240 I would pull over. 50/50 mix and 250 is when steam is created with a 16lb cap, once pushed out of the cap it becomes easier to create steam and it just keeps going. Remember coolant temps around the chambers and cylinders is hotter than what the sensor sees. I wouldn’t be comfortable with 240, and aluminum heads are more susceptible/sensitive to warping than iron heads.
     
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  5. pacofortacos

    pacofortacos Senior Member

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    Which grille do you have?
    The Big Horn/sport grille is limited on air flow, which caused me to run a bit warmer in 95+ deg and humid florida weather.
    Honeycomb flows much more air and will keep the temps down.
     
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  6. crash68

    crash68 Senior Member

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    I doubt it's an 850w fan just for your AC. They can draw up to 71 amps, are fully variable PWM controlled and have a 100 amp fuse right off the battery. The 850w fan is the only one and used for all the engine and AC cooling on the EcoD and the Gen5 trucks.

    The AC cooling fan on your truck is probably 1 or 2 speed and only needs to provide cooling air when the vehicle is stationary or moving slowly
     
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  7. crazykid1994

    crazykid1994 Senior Member

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    Open mesh. Yea I’m aware the sport grilles don’t flow as well. I had the honeycombs but swapped for these when I did the ags delete. I’m going to have to agree with blackBetty on it being the temp differential due to the ambient air temps. It’s super ridiculously hot and in the sun my truck display says around 105-108° I’m possibly looking at swapping the factory mech fan for another electric fan with a stand-alone pwm module over the existing factory electric ac fan so I would have dual electric fans

    EE10B3DE-823A-46D8-B85B-EC3DC79F5CD7.jpeg
     
  8. pacofortacos

    pacofortacos Senior Member

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    Those temps really don't hurt anything though.
    I actually just towed my boat to the Keys and back with my 2016 and my temps were similar - actually did it with just the stock electric fan, the clutch fan was in the bed and a stock tstat.

    Since the AC was on, the temps pretty much stayed in the 203-210 area.
    When I had the 190 stat in, the temps were still in the 195-210 area - depending on a few factors.

    When I had the Big Horn grille on (last year), the temps wouldn't come down below 210 with the electric AND clutch fan on (190 stat) when the ambient temps went over 95 deg and high humidity.

    Is it possible you have the antifreeze concentration a bit too concentrated?

    You do still have the stock fan shroud on, right?
     
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  9. HammerHead

    HammerHead USMC 0313

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    Just change the Tstat to a 180; no reason to swap radiators. I’m in Georgia and my old 5.7 loved the 180. Everything under hood was happy.
     
  10. crazykid1994

    crazykid1994 Senior Member

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    Stock clutch fan and shroud. Yes. Also never did anything with the factory radiator fluid drained enough to swap the tstat to a 190 and poured it back in. I don’t trust running only the stock ac fan due to the ambient temps down here currently
     

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