Redline Trans & Diff Fluid?

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Rampad

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Fluids(all changed to redline) that i have changed on 2017 crew cab with 30k miles currently.

Rear Diff 75w140 , ~2.5 quarts :

Front fluid 75w90, ~1.0 quarts:

Redline D6(8 speed) - drain and fill ~6 quarts - fluid came out really dark.
 
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16RamHemi

16RamHemi

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Fluids(all changed to redline) that i have changed on 2017 crew cab with 30k miles currently.

Rear Diff 75w140 , ~2.5 quarts :

Front fluid 75w90, ~1.0 quarts:

Redline D6(8 speed) - drain and fill ~6 quarts - fluid came out really dark.

Notice any differences in shifting / driveability after switching to RL? Did you raise the rear end when doing trans or just on a lift / level ground? Im curious if there is a better way to get more of the trans fluid out instead of mixing the ZF stuff with Redline. doing two changes may be the best way.
 

Rampad

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Notice any differences in shifting / driveability after switching to RL? Did you raise the rear end when doing trans or just on a lift / level ground? Im curious if there is a better way to get more of the trans fluid out instead of mixing the ZF stuff with Redline. doing two changes may be the best way.

I noticed transmission slippage during heavy acceleration(with zf fluid). My truck is custom tuned and I drive very aggressive. After the drain and fill the problem went away and noticed firmer shifts.

I leveled the truck to try to get as much fluid out and let it drain for a couple of hours. I defintely plan on doing another drain and fill sooner rather than later. I cant imagine the original fluid lasting a lifetime!
 

James OBrien

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Wow. How many miles are on that fluid? I just drained a bunch of mine on accident (sawzall accident when cutting cross over pipe and composite tranny pan) with 15k and the fluid was still clear.
 

meedom

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I noticed transmission slippage during heavy acceleration(with zf fluid). My truck is custom tuned and I drive very aggressive. After the drain and fill the problem went away and noticed firmer shifts.

I leveled the truck to try to get as much fluid out and let it drain for a couple of hours. I defintely plan on doing another drain and fill sooner rather than later. I cant imagine the original fluid lasting a lifetime!
Did you go thru the gears and keep the temp between 82 and 120 before topping off like recommended?
 

Rampad

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Did you go thru the gears and keep the temp between 82 and 120 before topping off like recommended?

I checked the fluid level two different ways. (I have messed up a procedure before and causes problems.) I let the truck sit overnight and drained the fluid the following day. that way I could measure the amount going out. Then put that exact amount back in.
Secondly, I followed the procedure for checking level by bringing up to temp and cycling the gears. Level checked out fine.
 

meedom

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I checked the fluid level two different ways. (I have messed up a procedure before and causes problems.) I let the truck sit overnight and drained the fluid the following day. that way I could measure the amount going out. Then put that exact amount back in.
Secondly, I followed the procedure for checking level by bringing up to temp and cycling the gears. Level checked out fine.
Sounds like a good plan and actually fairly easy, and you say it shifts and operates even smoother than it did before now?
 

Burla

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thanks for all your information.

So do you recomend a pan drop swap or a system flush using lines, or both?

Yes the oem is a tint of green, this is a bad pic I've seen others, but you see the hue and the clearness.

atflifeguard8-02.jpg
 

Rampad

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Sounds like a good plan and actually fairly easy, and you say it shifts and operates even smoother than it did before now?

Guys i push my truck to the limit, the truck gets driven more like a sports car. The scenerio Im about to decribe is not normal for most.
Took a road trip to las Vegas(driving from Texas), and decided I was going to try to keep up with a Jeep track hawk speeding through a Valley(I had already been driving for hours in the heat). The transmission temps were getting hotter and started to notice slipping . afterwards both my tuner and i were trying to figure out why. As a last resort I decided what the heck, change the fluid. I do believe that heat can cause the fluid to fail, and is why now with the new fluid Ive noticed smoother shifting.
 

Rampad

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thanks for all your information.

So do you recomend a pan drop swap or a system flush using lines, or both?

Yes the oem is a tint of green, this is a bad pic I've seen others, but you see the hue and the clearness.

atflifeguard8-02.jpg

Funny you ask. I´ve been contemplating of what my next step would be. I would love to flush all the fluid but the transmission is so complicated. I had a hard time just getting the drain plug off.
I feel more comfortable doing drain and fills till my fluid looks better. Just to see if the fluid is getting cleaner with changing it. I do diffently recommend changing that pan (since it has magnets and filter integrated)but its costly.
 

James OBrien

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I had to refill almost 9 quarts by following the drain/refill procedure (yes, that hurt my bank account!) by pulling the pan, and also pulling the transmission cooling lines going to the combo A/C and transmission cooler when I removed the unit to do my cam swap. By draining the cooler, draining lines, and pulling the pan you get quite a bit and letting it drain over a day or two seems to pull a good bit out, I think the total capacity is around 12 qts?

This site has some cool cut-away views of the transmission

https://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/ZF8.html
 

meedom

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Funny you ask. I´ve been contemplating of what my next step would be. I would love to flush all the fluid but the transmission is so complicated. I had a hard time just getting the drain plug off.
I feel more comfortable doing drain and fills till my fluid looks better. Just to see if the fluid is getting cleaner with changing it. I do diffently recommend changing that pan (since it has magnets and filter integrated)but its costly.
Thanks for the heads up on the drain plug. Any suggestions on the best way to get it out?
 

Rampad

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Thanks for the heads up on the drain plug. Any suggestions on the best way to get it out?

Cut off the end of the Allen wrench(cant remember the size). Find the open end wrench that fits the allen stub, and perform the circus act trying to hold it up and turn at the same time. Need small hands and good flexibility.
This is how I did it because I was in a hurry. Hardly any room between the exhaust pipe and the bottom of the pan. Thankfully there was enough room to completely remove the plug.
The best way is to take off all the bolts holding the pan and just take it out to inspect it.
 
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16RamHemi

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Cut off the end of the Allen wrench(cant remember the size). Find the open end wrench that fits the allen stub, and perform the circus act trying to hold it up and turn at the same time. Need small hands and good flexibility.
This is how I did it because I was in a hurry. Hardly any room between the exhaust pipe and the bottom of the pan. Thankfully there was enough room to completely remove the plug.
The best way is to take off all the bolts holding the pan and just take it out to inspect it.

I am curious if there is a self tapping grommet or valve / pitcock of some sort to drill into the pan. Then drain and remove. or could even just drill a hole into the pan and let it drain. Then remove bolts. Loosening the pan and letting the fluid come out.....should be a better way. I agree, that one above the pipe is going to SUCK. Hey lets run this pipe right under a bolt and the drain plug. Morons. I have 73k on my truck. I would like to get as much out as possible but removing lines etc is way over my head. I can remove pan and then follow the refill procedure. I will look at my fluid and judge how soon to do another drain and fill. I came across a thread that listed the ATP B-453 pan and filter on ebay / amazon was like $130 to 150. Not too bad. This is the same pan BoostedMotorsports used. It has a replaceable filter as well.

Any companies out there like blackstone labs that could analyze the fluid and check for metals --> trans wear?
 

meedom

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I am curious if there is a self tapping grommet or valve / pitcock of some sort to drill into the pan. Then drain and remove. or could even just drill a hole into the pan and let it drain. Then remove bolts. Loosening the pan and letting the fluid come out.....should be a better way. I agree, that one above the pipe is going to SUCK. Hey lets run this pipe right under a bolt and the drain plug. Morons. I have 73k on my truck. I would like to get as much out as possible but removing lines etc is way over my head. I can remove pan and then follow the refill procedure. I will look at my fluid and judge how soon to do another drain and fill. I came across a thread that listed the ATP B-453 pan and filter on ebay / amazon was like $130 to 150. Not too bad. This is the same pan BoostedMotorsports used. It has a replaceable filter as well.

Any companies out there like blackstone labs that could analyze the fluid and check for metals --> trans wear?
Ya might wanna be careful with the drilling, remember ya got the valve body up in there too lol! :cheers:
 

meedom

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Cut off the end of the Allen wrench(cant remember the size). Find the open end wrench that fits the allen stub, and perform the circus act trying to hold it up and turn at the same time. Need small hands and good flexibility.
This is how I did it because I was in a hurry. Hardly any room between the exhaust pipe and the bottom of the pan. Thankfully there was enough room to completely remove the plug.
The best way is to take off all the bolts holding the pan and just take it out to inspect it.
Thanks for sharing sir...
 
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