should i use lubegard if i dont have tick

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WildcatHemi

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2016 5.7. i purchased the truck at 59k. just turned 100k. no internal tick. i have the oil changed every 3-4k miles. im not sure what oil they use, ill ask next time. when i get home from the oil change i add a half quart of m1 5w30.

i just want to keep it from happening.
 

RamDiver

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2016 5.7. i purchased the truck at 59k. just turned 100k. no internal tick. i have the oil changed every 3-4k miles. im not sure what oil they use, ill ask next time. when i get home from the oil change i add a half quart of m1 5w30.

i just want to keep it from happening.

Read the Lubegard thread, review the poll, and decide for yourself if it's worth the investment.

It's an expensive option where I live, but I still manage to add a 15-oz jug with the pre-winter OCI. If I lived in the US, I would use it all year.

I'm retired, don't drive much and get the oil changed twice per year.


While you're at it, and if you have decided to get serious about keeping your truck long-term, consider learning about using a high-quality synthetic oil and something other than the less-than-marginal OE oil filter.



I suggest reading them backwards, or maybe the last 2 or 3 pages so you get the most recent updates. The preferred oil filters have changed several times during the thread's lifetime.

.
 
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Dredger

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I've been using Lubegard Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant from the first oil change on my 6.4. I get the 32 oz. bottle and add 16 oz. per oil change.
It's usually cheaper on Amazon. I get alerts for it and PUP 0W40 and pick them up at their cheapest points. Here's the pricing history of the 32 oz. Lubegard:
1759514380211.png
 

Burla

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I've been using Lubegard Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant from the first oil change on my 6.4. I get the 32 oz. bottle and add 16 oz. per oil change.
It's usually cheaper on Amazon. I get alerts for it and PUP 0W40 and pick them up at their cheapest points. Here's the pricing history of the 32 oz. Lubegard:
View attachment 573738
If you Google that product's voa you will see moly 2444 ppm, CA 1957 ppm, phos 3587 ppm, and oh yeah boron 147 ppm. If you look at oil before politics ruined it and ruined engines, you see formulas with high zinc, CA, and phos, boron is more of a newer item but also good. Hemi's are relic engines, descendants of the engines those oils were made for, very similar only engineers have some items like mds hanging on them. Adding biotech takes new oils made for modern engines like the hurricane and turns them into oils that are great for relic engines that benefit from that additive package. Getting the HD version is a solid move, you gonna boost moly 100-150ppm, CA 100 ppm, and phos 2-300 ppm. Noticeably you see that they pretty much omitted zinc, but that phos is going to help the low zinc modern oils work better.

You could probably talk me into running HD full strength, 6.5 qrts whatever oil plus 32 had biotech for the hemi. I would not be using any 20 weight oils, so viscosity is another concern to help cams. In Texas a 0w40 wouldn't be a bad move either.
 

RamDiver

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WildcatHemi

WildcatHemi

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added @ 8oz to the crank case today. none of the big 3 parts houses had it. beezos got it to me next day.
 
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