Should you replace rotors with every break job

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APPsBeast

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Approaching 40k miles and I suppose I should consider changing the pads, I’ve heard mixed opinions saying resurfacing isn’t ideal and you should just replace to Rotors and start from scratch with a fresh set of pads, what would you do?
 

GRN69CHV

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There's really no way to measure run out without a brake lathe. In the old days, we would pull the calipers, replace the pads and move on. Today, in the big scheme of things, cost of rotors is insignificant. Mine were done at 55K, 58K (frt/rr) respective.
 

Nick@GotExhaust

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GsRAM

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I personally would not if they are not grooved, not warped and above minimum thickness. Clean/deglaze them with some sandpaper (both sides) install the new pads and move on. But if you want to spend an extra $100 anyway, go ahead. Up to the installer really....
 

Villalobos

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I diy brakes. Last several years I’ve used Detroit Axle brand. Has worked fine on my vehicles. Pads and rotors all around less than $200 for most vehicles. At that price I change pads and rotors all around and I change them often.
 

HDGoose

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My brakes on my 2013 RAM 2500 diesel were within specs at 125k. Had I not traded in the truck, I would have done a brake joball around. I pulled a 12k 5th wheel trailer 30% of the time and the brakes were still very good.
 

joelmic

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What is the Rotor thickness SPEC???

I'm in the exact same boat and was just gonna change pads... I'm @ 35K
 

No Tyme

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Approaching 40k miles and I suppose I should consider changing the pads, I’ve heard mixed opinions saying resurfacing isn’t ideal and you should just replace to Rotors and start from scratch with a fresh set of pads, what would you do?

If they are not warped or grooved I would say no. I have installed just front pads on several cars and trucks over the years with no issues.
 

tron67j

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My vote, replace. Front rotors and brakes do most of the work in slowing and stopping the vehicle and since they interact with each other it makes sense to have all parts replaced at same time. You may not feel anything now, but new pads could exacerbate an issue where there is build up on the rotors, which causes the pulsation that is commonly, but incorrectly, referred to as warped rotors (rotors don't actually warp). Good luck.
 

Nick14

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Whenever I replace pads, I take the rotors off and have them resurfaced. There is a minimum thickness spec. on the rotor. The shop will tell you if they can make a cut or not. Nick
 

canadiankodiak700

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My vote, replace. Front rotors and brakes do most of the work in slowing and stopping the vehicle and since they interact with each other it makes sense to have all parts replaced at same time. You may not feel anything now, but new pads could exacerbate an issue where there is build up on the rotors, which causes the pulsation that is commonly, but incorrectly, referred to as warped rotors (rotors don't actually warp). Good luck.
Rotors don't warp? Roflmao
If only you could see the ones from my old 98 neon after Street racing. Multipal heat cycles where they glowed Cherry Red at night and to the point where they would barely stop the car. When they come off at the shop, there was noticable warpage.... No build up.
Same on the front of my ranger after hard braking down a mountain trail then crossing a creek at the bottom, severe vibration after that, rotors were warped.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

tron67j

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Well, I don't know your set up, but your experience is not relevant to this discussion. I think it is reasonable to expect our discussion about normal use within tolerance levels for the materials on the vehicles we are discussing will not be relevant to street racing, and vice versa. Any material that is exposed to extremes past design will react differently and of course in that case you might have something warp. I didn't think I would have to first preface my statement with a qualifier that my statement does not apply to Neons used for street racing. And before anyone else raises an issue about modified rotors or use beyond the manufacturer limits of trucks, please accept my apologies in advance that your use is also not coverd by my statement.
 

62Blazer

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I've replaced brakes on many cars over the last 20 years and only replace rotors maybe 25% of the time. Typically if they are not grooved, warped, or getting really crusty I just scuff them lightly with sandpaper and spray them down with brake clean. Back in the day if the rotors were grooved or warped you had them turned but nowadays it's usually easier and just as cheap to buy new rotors. Rotors should be stamped with the minimum thickness on them. I've never seen a brake rotor that is below minimum thickness unless it has previously been turned, or the grooving or warping is bad enough where by the time you turn them they are below spec.
 

bm02tj

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Check for cracks and warpage if good light sand and reuse as it will be better than new ones
If one needs replacing change both on axle
 

Burla

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Rotors are so cheap I say yes, and keep the old ones. Some day your kids will be smelting them for good use.
 

Tach_tech

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At my shop we machine rotors with every pad change as long as there is enough meat left, if not, we replace them. It’s usually only an extra 1/2hr labour or so. You’re not buying new rotors for 1/2hr of labour.

I’ve seen far to many issues come from just doing a pad slap so we never do that. You wanna do that on your own, it’s fine. From a shop point of view it’s not worth the risk of a customer coming back with an issue.
 
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