Synthetic Filter Options for RFE transmsions....

[aszumilo]

Well, didn't get the tranny done today. Other things happened, so, next weekend.

One thing I noticed with the Summit pricing, with shipping, it comes out $5 cheaper than the dealership. $66.09 versus $71.31.

 

[Lysergic]

I typically hate to bump old threads, but I think my question/observation is appropriate for this thread.

Dropped the trans pan in a new-to-me 2012 1500 5.7L (2WD), 120K miles. I'm familiar with the 65RFE, I've done 5 pan drops/filter changes in the lifetime of my other 2012 1500 4.7L (4x4, 265K mi.).

Much to my surprise, the "new" 2012 2WD 5.7L has the same trans pan as my 4WD 2012. And...the sump filter I removed from the 2WD was the 4x4 version with the longer pickup, not the shorter version. There's a 1/2" difference in the length of the pickup, in case anyone is interested.

The pan on the "new" 2012 had never been opened. Factory RTV application was quite apparent. The date stamp on the spin-on was from 2011. Fluid and magnet were surprisingly clean, but I have maintenance records indicating the previous owner did regular transmission service, obviously machined flushed. Machine flush is better than no service.

As one may surmise, I purchased the wrong replacement filter kit, which as luck would have it, I encountered another issue with the (new) spin-on filter. The plastic threads on the spin-on were all gnawed up, right out of the box. (Hastings/Baldwin). Lovely. First time in 25 years I've had a bad part delivered from Rockauto.

I covered up the bottom of the transmission with a clean trash bag and called it day. Will proceed with this next weekend when the new (and hopefully) correct parts arrive.

The "new" to me 2012 is a high-end Laramie Longhorn package. I've been unable to procure a window sticker through the usual sources due to the age of the vehicle, but I did get a build sheet on it, which was somewhat helpful.

Long story short...I don't think all 2WD trucks from that era were delivered with the 2WD transmission pan/filter. The one I'm currently working on certainly wasn't.

 

[Burla]

I typically hate to bump old threads, but I think my question/observation is appropriate for this thread.

Dropped the trans pan in a new-to-me 2012 1500 5.7L (2WD), 120K miles. I'm familiar with the 65RFE, I've done 5 pan drops/filter changes in the lifetime of my other 2012 1500 4.7L (4x4, 265K mi.).

Much to my surprise, the "new" 2012 2WD 5.7L has the same trans pan as my 4WD 2012. And...the sump filter I removed from the 2WD was the 4x4 version with the longer pickup, not the shorter version. There's a 1/2" difference in the length of the pickup, in case anyone is interested.

The pan on the "new" 2012 had never been opened. Factory RTV application was quite apparent. The date stamp on the spin-on was from 2011. Fluid and magnet were surprisingly clean, but I have maintenance records indicating the previous owner did regular transmission service, obviously machined flushed. Machine flush is better than no service.

As one may surmise, I purchased the wrong replacement filter kit, which as luck would have it, I encountered another issue with the (new) spin-on filter. The plastic threads on the spin-on were all gnawed up, right out of the box. (Hastings/Baldwin). Lovely. First time in 25 years I've had a bad part delivered from Rockauto.

I covered up the bottom of the transmission with a clean trash bag and called it day. Will proceed with this next weekend when the new (and hopefully) correct parts arrive.

The "new" to me 2012 is a high-end Laramie Longhorn package. I've been unable to procure a window sticker through the usual sources due to the age of the vehicle, but I did get a build sheet on it, which was somewhat helpful.

Long story short...I don't think all 2WD trucks from that era were delivered with the 2WD transmission pan/filter. The one I'm currently working on certainly wasn't.

This guy has been selling the metal threads to replace that plastic garbage for many years, we all got ours from this guy.

 

[Lysergic]

A little follow up on my last post regarding the gnawed up spin-on filter. Didn't re-order the Hastings/Baldwin kit. Went with the ATP 4WD kit from Rockauto. FWIW, the overall build quality of the ATP spin-on appear to be better. Got it all buttoned back up before sunrise today. Waiting 24 hrs. for the RTV to set up before refill.

When it comes time for the 300K mi. pan drop on my other 2012 with the RFE, I'll be ordering the ATP kit. ATP PN. B-245 for 4WD, and apparently my oddball 2WD as well..

 

[Manump95]

If you opt for this filter package, you should consider a wire wheel to knock the paint off before installing.

Also, spring pressure if different on the xp, but most the other filters are the same leaf style as oem.

Why removing the paint it will fall off an clog things up?

 

[Burla]

Why removing the paint it will fall off an clog things up?

Yes its possible, plus it will soon be covered in oil so it wont rust.

 

[HEMIMANN]

All lubrication circuit components are unpainted.
The decision to locate the RFE control filter inside the pan was a cost savings. For instance, Allison 1000 trans has filter external to the case as should be.

 

[DILLIGAF]

The whole entire RFE is cost savings

 

[HEMIMANN]

The whole entire RFE is cost savings

Milking that cow!

In younger days I might have looked into a ZF swap kit, but now....meh. Doing all I know how to make the 66RFE live.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Instill drive my stuff like I stole it.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Instill drive my stuff like I stole it.

Life is indeed short. I don't pamper my use, I just configure it more likely to live. No stat, syn oil, short OCI, no O/D towing.

 

[Manump95]

Yes its possible, plus it will soon be covered in oil so it wont rust.

I have another quick question I’m taking apart my valve body to change the gasket and add the transgo kit and sonnax accumulator pistons, but my valve body looks like it has a metal gasket already, should I keep it? Or replace it, the one I was able to get wasn’t metal, I tried to get the kit that you recommended but is out of stock

 

[Burla]

Can you post the kit you got and tell me the part. Can you remind me what was the issue in the first place.

If the valve body core is not smooth, the OEM metal will leak. So you probably want to use the new material as it has sealing ability the metal doesn't. Even if the metal gasket isn't damaged, that isn't the potential issue. The more correct permanent fix is use a thicker metal plate and grind mating surface smooth.

 

[Manump95]

Can you post the kit you got and tell me the part. Can you remind me what was the issue in the first place.

If the valve body core is not smooth, the OEM metal will leak. So you probably want to use the new material as it has sealing ability the metal doesn't. Even if the metal gasket isn't damaged, that isn't the potential issue. The more correct permanent fix is use a thicker metal plate and grind mating surface smooth.

I blowed my tranny on the high way, I got a 545 from a junkyard and I am in the process of installing all of this, plus the synthetic filter for the spin on filter, I am adding a 2600 stall converter and also changing cooler lines

 

[Burla]

I was thinking you have a new plate gasket, it wouldn't matter with that one.

 

[Manump95]

I was thinking you have a new plate gasket, it wouldn't matter with that one.

I did installed I am hopping to have everything ready soon to put back in the car I also came across this, do you think is worth it or not really thanks you guys had been amazing helping me out

 

[Burla]

If it were me, I would button it up and if by chance you have some low PSI condition or shudder in low rpm, then I'd add that. It boosts psi marginally, which is good because you didn't put the right kit if you really wanted to boost psi. Installs outside trans, so you can do that anytime.

 

[Manump95]

If it were me, I would button it up and if by chance you have some low PSI condition or shudder in low rpm, then I'd add that. It boosts psi marginally, which is good because you didn't put the right kit if you really wanted to boost psi. Installs outside trans, so you can do that anytime.

What kit would be that one?

 

[Burla]

What kit would be that one?

Anyone with a solid plate in-between. It can be advanced mechanicship installing shaving valve body smooth and mic'd perfect, but if done so it is good for RFE you can tune up pressures. It prevents cross leaks you wouldn't want to tune up pressure with a shift kit, it isn't enough . Corey and I used to belong to a transmission only group but I think Facebook nuked us. Guys sold just the plates for 400 and up, when paired to the RFE it wont warp or leak after that.

this would be an example

DIY 68RFE Valve Body Install

In this video, Myer installs the Power Driven 68RFE Pan-Off Upgrade Kit featuring our new high-pressure 68RFE valve body, cast aluminum deep pan, large capa...

youtu.be

Those upgraded valve bodies you need a tune and can kick up psi +150. 6:40 Mark talks about the plate.

.

 

[Manump95]

Anyone with a solid plate in-between. It can be advanced mechanicship installing shaving valve body smooth and mic'd perfect, but if done so it is good for RFE you can tune up pressures. It prevents cross leaks you wouldn't want to tune up pressure with a shift kit, it isn't enough . Corey and I used to belong to a transmission only group but I think Facebook nuked us. Guys sold just the plates for 400 and up, when paired to the RFE it wont warp or leak after that.

this would be an example

DIY 68RFE Valve Body Install

In this video, Myer installs the Power Driven 68RFE Pan-Off Upgrade Kit featuring our new high-pressure 68RFE valve body, cast aluminum deep pan, large capa...

youtu.be

Those upgraded valve bodies you need a tune and can kick up psi +150. 6:40 Mark talks about the plate.

.

Thanks I’m going to stick with my path as I already invested on the project, also I have everything ready to come out( I am going to remove the whole drivetrain) I’m going to change engine mounts clean the whole mess that the Transm fluid did on my engine bay and paint it glossy black, but to remove the drivetrain I need to remove the support plate that connects the front differential and the drivetrain, I did it before on a lift but I’m struggling to do it on the driveway any advice with that jobs? And also any trick to lock the front driveshaft to have everything ready?
I appreciate all the help that you guys have given me specially you burla!