Synthetic Motor Oil Poll 2017

What Synthetic Oil(s) Do You Use Most Often?


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R.L.K.

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I use Mobile 1 and have for years.

Walt
Mobile 1 is tough to beat imo as it is a GREAT oil , but Redline and PUP is much better imo .

With that said Mobile 1 would be my absolute oil if Redline became unavailable [emoji1303]

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patrocle

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How much molly has the PUP?
Pennzoil 550045202 Ultra Platinum 5 quart 5W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil (SN/GF-5 jug)
Found 5 gal at $25 and wanted to use it for 2015 1500 5.7l , have 25000 miles.
Thanks
 

R.L.K.

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How much molly has the PUP?
Pennzoil 550045202 Ultra Platinum 5 quart 5W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil (SN/GF-5 jug)
Found 5 gal at $25 and wanted to use it for 2015 1500 5.7l , have 25000 miles.
Thanks
I believe 20wt PUP has about 60ppm of Molybdenum ....imo that's about 450 ppm too little ( for a 5.7L Hemi ). That's a great price on that oil.
Just me , I wouldn't run any 20 wt in mine even if it was free .

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patrocle

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I believe 20wt PUP has about 60ppm of Molybdenum ....imo that's about 450 ppm too little ( for a 5.7L Hemi ). That's a great price on that oil.
Just me , I wouldn't run any 20 wt in mine even if it was free .

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Thanks for your reply!

I have searched every where to find some info about this oils when it comes to Molybdenum with no luck, wanted to compare some oils. I see that lot of folks here like the
Redline 5w-30 motor oil with Royal Purple oil filter, as i guess may have more molybdenum than PUP.

Now may just use PUP 5w-20 with Mopar oil filter just to stay within their warranty policy, but maybe for sure that Redline w/RP Filter 5w-30 maybe better.
Even if switch to Redline 5w-30 is that any good for California weather? here is quite hot days...

Thanks!
 

Fitz-0518

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In my 5.7 1500 and 87 GN. Ca 95+ summer. Reading/research tells me 5-30 is a logical choice. Both on Redline today. But,,,some Hemi's prefer other brands.
 

Burla

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This is old, but it would be rare that an oil company would take moly out, especially these days with new specs. I put 5w30's but they also have 20 weights for those interested, I just think we all should be running 5w30 with the constant engine failures and seeing what FCA did to the eco diesel spec. If you look at the poll any of the most used oils here (Pennzoil, M1, Amsoil, Redline) use moly, and in fact many offerings have way more moly then the average 60ppm. The two main popular companies that have had wavering moly usage are Valvoline and Royal Purple. But some evidence is now they do use it. If you wanted to choose those oils I would do a uoa if moly was a concern, and it should be. The oil 0w40 PUP FCA built with Pennzoil specifically for hemi's has over 250ppm moly, so that should tell you something?
 

muhfreedumz

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Thanks for your reply!

I have searched every where to find some info about this oils when it comes to Molybdenum with no luck, wanted to compare some oils. I see that lot of folks here like the
Redline 5w-30 motor oil with Royal Purple oil filter, as i guess may have more molybdenum than PUP.

Now may just use PUP 5w-20 with Mopar oil filter just to stay within their warranty policy, but maybe for sure that Redline w/RP Filter 5w-30 maybe better.
Even if switch to Redline 5w-30 is that any good for California weather? here is quite hot days...

Thanks!

I would appreciate some input as well, as I'm working through my 2nd dino break in oil change in my 2018 currently at 6700 miles. Should I step up to the Redline 5w30/RP filter? Concerned about warranty issues long term if I switch from the factory Mopar dino/filter, whatever it is. Truck experiences hot and humid Georgia temperatures mostly. Lots of low gear in town and on post driving. Also some extended idle time periods when we're in the field or playing hurry up and wait. GA winters aren't bad..low 40s normally.

Should I switch over to the thicker 5w30 Redline at my next oil change? It'll be the truck's first synthetic change. The cost doesn't bother me if it'll save noticeable wear and tear down the road.
 
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Burla

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So any issue that is a warranty thing would be dependent on the oil in the sump at the time you take it too the dealer, hint. If you are that worried you can always change your oil before a warranty item if it happens, and do the cancel order trick with receipts to prove oil changes. Personally I just don't give a **** so I ran what I wanted too, I guess somehow that is radical. Either that or run what they want you to, this forum's most popular oil strategy is to run 5w20 and Pennzoil is the most popular synthetic oil. I would run 5w30 PUP or Redline and a RP filter, if they denied me and I lost in court I would sit outside the dealer with a gun and wait for the mother fkers to get off work. Whew glad I am out of warranty :)
 

Ramnewbie

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So any issue that is a warranty thing would be dependent on the oil in the sump at the time you take it too the dealer, hint. If you are that worried you can always change your oil before a warranty item if it happens, and do the cancel order trick with receipts to prove oil changes. Personally I just don't give a **** so I ran what I wanted too, I guess somehow that is radical. Either that or run what they want you to, this forum's most popular oil strategy is to run 5w20 and Pennzoil is the most popular synthetic oil. I would run 5w30 PUP or Redline and a RP filter, if they denied me and I lost in court I would sit outside the dealer with a gun and wait for the mother fkers to get off work. Whew glad I am out of warranty :)
We all know you're just a radical at heart Burla. Lol

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Fitz-0518

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Muhfreedumz, you and I are driving on the same road. 2018 2500 6.4 5500 miles. When I get it back from the dealer later this week (new exhaust system) I will change the oil to Redline 5-40. I have the lifetime warranty. My decision to do this, went down the following path; truck came with factory oil, what ever that might be. At 1500 changed it to Amsoil SS 0-40 MS 12663. Ran it for 2000 miles. Picked up a start up tick and high temp idle tick. Changed the oil at 3500 to PUP 0-40. Still have short first start up tick, but no hot idle tick. Because I have seen such a verified improvement using Redline in my 03 5.7 and 87 GN (lower block temps and slightly higher oil pressure) I want to to try RL in my 6.4. IF I have a mechanical failure and FCA wants to see verification of OCI and oil compliance,,,,I can supply them that information. Like you, I want to use a Teir 1 oil and filter that provides wear protection and can handle/dissipate heat. Expense testing on my part, sure. Not suggesting that this is right for anyone else.
 

muhfreedumz

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I have lifetime MaxCare as well. In spite of that, I'll still be keeping good documentation as I switch over to Redline 5w30 for my next change. I have the high temp idle tick as well. It's not that loud yet, but it's there.
 

Lee DeTro

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I've been using Mobil 1 since the early 90's. My brother in law had a Mobil station down the street from the Indianapolis Speedway. Before the other companies started making their own synthetic's he would stock up before the races every year and one of the crew members would come down with plain white boxes and buy Mobil 1 from him for their Indy cars. For a few years he could guaranty the over 80% of the cars on race day were running Mobil 1. That being said there are a lot of choice's now so I say run what YOU are comfortable with, the vehicles I've run Mobil 1; '89 Nissan Kingcab 3.0 V-6 134,000, '98 Dakota 5.2 84,000 miles, '02 Dakota 4.7 252,500 miles, '03 PT cruiser Gt Turbo bought with 100,000, now has 142,000 Miles and counting, '06 300C 5.7 66,000 (wife's) 2010 Ram 5.7 purchased Aug 2017 94,000 now has 121,500 miles. except for the Pt and Ram all bought brand new and changed to Mobil 1 at 1000 miles. I change oil about every 5,000 miles, sometimes sooner if I've been running hard :)
 

HammerHead

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I wanted to share the book with all of you, I've been reading it for 3 days and love it. It gets into the science of base oil, additives and formulations. The oils roll in the engine and many MANY others. If you want to Really understand oil on a more informed level this is a good read.
Have a slippery weekend gentleman:)

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HammerHead

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Ok gentleman, If you have the Max Lifetime warranty you are Not allowed to use an aftermarket Oil Filter, or a filter with the wrong part number like the SRT oil filter. If you have an engine failure related to oil FCA can deny the warranty work if there is an aftermarket oil filter on the engine. This is per Max Lifetime warranty representative. Basically all they need is an excuse.
 

muhfreedumz

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Ok gentleman, If you have the Max Lifetime warranty you are Not allowed to use an aftermarket Oil Filter, or a filter with the wrong part number like the SRT oil filter. If you have an engine failure related to oil FCA can deny the warranty work if there is an aftermarket oil filter on the engine. This is per Max Lifetime warranty representative. Basically all they need is an excuse.

What about using a different weight oil?
 

HammerHead

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What about using a different weight oil?
I spoke with them about the oil, and oil weight recommended by the manufacturer must be maintained for the Lifetime Max Warranty. Keep in mind the Manufacturer warrany and the Lifetime Max warranty are two different things; under different legal entities. The Lifetime Max warrenty starts after the manufacturer warranty ends. For me in the 2500 with the 6.4 I have only two oils to choose from, good thing is both are fantastic. But the Mopar paper oil filter I'm not happy with. Hopefully I can get something official to clear things up.
I do a lot of corporate research for a living so I've decided to run the LLC through the database and write a certified letter to the CEO and registration agent of the Lifetime Max Warranty contract holder. Hopefully I can get an answer in writing about the oil and oil filter. If I do I will share my findings.
 
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