Synthetic Motor Oil Poll 2017

[Burla]

Shaeffers has all of the early work on Moly, when the net started they had all the white paper out there. There is nobody with a greater commitment to moly, they literally wrote the moly bible, posted it here a few times. All this and they their moly treatment with such low moly. Just like Lucas, the real use for moly EP is in older dying engines losing compression.

 

[Chris Hoffman]

I just showed you a uoa of shaeffers moly treatment, it has 26ppm moly for 1/2 quart. Consider PUP has 70ppm per quart, shaeffers oil nearly 3 times as much as PUP, it actually lowers the moly in most oils a bit. As for operating viscosity, it is twice as thick as lucas stabilizer a well known thickner, also in uoa. Here's a thread from boobs. To be honest, this is just a dangerous product with modern engines.

Now, Shaeffers oil is incredible and has super high moly by itself. Of the oils we talk about here, only redline has more moly, maybe amsoil and srt oil but they are close. I'm just spreading some good info man, I am a big shaeffers fan and just like most shaeffers fans we scratch our head at their moly treatment. It would be more correct to call it synthetic corn starch then a moly treatment.

There is a reason why people go to lubegard biotech, it is 1800ppm moly compared to the 26ppm in shaeffers, and it is actually thinner then oil not 20 TIMES thicker like shaeffers moly ep. And it is super cheap, price starts at 6 bucks for small size, 9 bucks for hemi size.

Haha it's not twice as thick as Lucas. Lucas is actually a bit thicker than the Schaeffer's moly EP. Wondering where you got your info from because from what I've been told...it's not close to what you're saying regarding the oil and moly EP. I've talked to reps and even a chemist at Schaeffer's via email and that info is not the same as what you're stating. Now this was years ago when I started running Schaeffer's in my vehicles. Did the oil testing via Schaeffer's and Polaris labs( I think Polaris labs is better than Blackstone). Gonna talk with my rep again as he does millions in sales every year. I will see if I can get ahold of a chemist again at Schaeffer's and see if they changed anything. Also, the use for moly isn't directed for old dying engines that have low compression

 

[Burla]

OK, that was a voa of Shaeffers and moly is not for engines dying of compression but viscosity is. Read the voa, see the viscosity, exactly what it is in their tech sheet provided below.

It says right in paper work reduces blow by, code for oil thickener. Look at section 9 of this page, Viscosity Kinematic (100°C): 250 to 290 cSt. Lucas stabilizer one viscosity 110 cSt, lucas stabilar number 2 viscosity number 45 cst.

So Shaeffers moly treatment absolutely is more then double the thickest lucas stabilizer is and is 5 times thicker then lucas synthetic stabilizer. So I hope you can read that and understand what that product is now that you see the proof straight from shaeffers and lucas.

5w20 viscosity is 9, your oil treatment is 20 to 30 times thicker then 5w20. It is 8 times thicker then 140w gear oil. Stat sheets don't lie plus they match the uoa. I don't know what more I can do if you don't believe their tech sheets.

 

[Burla]

Haha it's not twice as thick as Lucas. Lucas is actually a bit thicker than the Schaeffer's moly EP. Wondering where you got your info from because from what I've been told...it's not close to what you're saying regarding the oil and moly EP. I've talked to reps and even a chemist at Schaeffer's via email and that info is not the same as what you're stating. Now this was years ago when I started running Schaeffer's in my vehicles. Did the oil testing via Schaeffer's and Polaris labs( I think Polaris labs is better than Blackstone). Gonna talk with my rep again as he does millions in sales every year. I will see if I can get ahold of a chemist again at Schaeffer's and see if they changed anything. Also, the use for moly isn't directed for old dying engines that have low compression

so we clear now? Not the first time a sales rep misrepresented something.

 

[Adamcr68]

OK, that was a voa of Shaeffers and moly is not for engines dying of compression but viscosity is. Read the voa, see the viscosity, exactly what it is in their tech sheet provided below.

It says right in paper work reduces blow by, code for oil thickener. Look at section 9 of this page, Viscosity Kinematic (100°C): 250 to 290 cSt. Lucas stabilizer one viscosity 110 cSt, lucas stabilar number 2 viscosity number 45 cst.

So Shaeffers moly treatment absolutely is more then double the thickest lucas stabilizer is and is 5 times thicker then lucas synthetic stabilizer. So I hope you can read that and understand what that product is now that you see the proof straight from shaeffers and lucas.

5w20 viscosity is 9, your oil treatment is 20 to 30 times thicker then 5w20. It is 8 times thicker then 140w gear oil. Stat sheets don't lie plus they match the uoa. I don't know what more I can do if you don't believe their tech sheets.

Did my oil change today with redline 5w30 & rp filter, got a new drain pan different design that I’m used to but was thicker plastic so I thought I try it didn’t understand how it wouldn’t splash out so got a funnel to put in drain hole which overflowed immediately pulled it out & just let it drain onto the flat top with no splashing. I did install fumoto valve so next change should easier. Does anyone have recommendation on a filter wrench that will fit, got a strap style but didn’t work well, had a K&n filter before that has the nut on bottom the 20820 rp has bigger diameter thought it wouldn’t fit with some turning got in place but not sure when it’s time to change how I’ll get out without dumping oil every where

 

[Burla]

I have always hand tightened and loosened, I never needed a wrench except the first time. As long as I have been doing this way I believe I only had one leak, that just another hand tightened fixed.

 

[Chris Hoffman]

OK, that was a voa of Shaeffers and moly is not for engines dying of compression but viscosity is. Read the voa, see the viscosity, exactly what it is in their tech sheet provided below.

It says right in paper work reduces blow by, code for oil thickener. Look at section 9 of this page, Viscosity Kinematic (100°C): 250 to 290 cSt. Lucas stabilizer one viscosity 110 cSt, lucas stabilar number 2 viscosity number 45 cst.

So Shaeffers moly treatment absolutely is more then double the thickest lucas stabilizer is and is 5 times thicker then lucas synthetic stabilizer. So I hope you can read that and understand what that product is now that you see the proof straight from shaeffers and lucas.

5w20 viscosity is 9, your oil treatment is 20 to 30 times thicker then 5w20. It is 8 times thicker then 140w gear oil. Stat sheets don't lie plus they match the uoa. I don't know what more I can do if you don't believe their tech sheets.

According to Schaeffer's...they say it's not even close to the thickness as Lucas. I've used Lucas in the past right before I started using Schaeffer's oil and the moly EP. Lucas and Schaeffer's has similar consistency, but the Lucas is a bit thicker and flows alot slower...I know many who have used both and say the same. When I asked a couple Schaeffer's reps what you said about the Schaeffer's being thicker...they just laughed and said that's completely false. And for the amount of moly in the moly ep and the Schaeffer's oils...again the number you posted was very laughable to them. I had the moly content values years ago and posted them in forums regarding oil topics that came up, but I wasn't going to search for the numbers so I just contacted Schaeffer's again. So here's the moly value ranges in ppm for their oils and at the bottom is for the 132 moly EP. Not even remotely close to what you stated

 

[Burla]

I think you are confused about something, I have never used or seen moly ep in person and I made no statements whatsoever. Those are the stat sheets from Schaeffer's and Lucas, not me. Take it up with them. I'm not sure about that uoa/voa, they say the sample was black, but moly ep is green blue, so Im guessing it is not a voa of moly ep. But I posted one of those as well. I generally just don't take someone's word on it, I prefer to look at actual stat sheets, they tell a more appropriate story.

 

[Chris Hoffman]

I think you are confused about something, I have never used or seen moly ep in person and I made no statements whatsoever. Those are the stat sheets from Schaeffer's and Lucas, not me. Take it up with them. I'm not sure about that uoa/voa, they say the sample was black, but moly ep is green blue, so Im guessing it is not a voa of moly ep. But I posted one of those as well. I generally just don't take someone's word on it, I prefer to look at actual stat sheets, they tell a more appropriate story.

No confusion here

 

[Burla]

Did you see this, Viscosity Kinematic (100°C): 250 to 290 cSt? Are you saying Shaeffers is wrong on their safety data sheet? OK then, like I said it also matches the voa on it.

 

[PT-4]

UPS guy stopped by today

 

[Gary2]

Some how or another I did a quick search on here a while back and messed up and bought RL 5w-20 from Nick . Would it make sense to order 5w-30 and maybe substitute a few qts of 20 with a few qts of 30wt to create a mix . The truck is always in a heated garage , maybe gets 3500 miles per year here in Jersey . I do have a tick almost every start up if sat for an hour or so with Pennzoil synthetic 5w-20. Im due for a change by my standards not Rams gauge and figured I would ask the experts before I commit to all RL 5w-20.

 

[Burla]

Some how or another I did a quick search on here a while back and messed up and bought RL 5w-20 from Nick . Would it make sense to order 5w-30 and maybe substitute a few qts of 20 with a few qts of 30wt to create a mix . The truck is always in a heated garage , maybe gets 3500 miles per year here in Jersey . I do have a tick almost every start up if sat for an hour or so with Pennzoil synthetic 5w-20. Im due for a change by my standards not Rams gauge and figured I would ask the experts before I commit to all RL 5w-20.

I had 5w20 kill my tick, which was a bad tick. Oddly enough, it seams like the worse the tick is, the additives are all that matters, and that pressure will likely plate and kill the tick.

Now, guys like hemi395 as recorded has lesser ticks, well then 5w30 is key. From the little you said, my guess is you would land in this category. Less pressure ticks seam to respond to additives and viscosity, and 5w30 redline is the gold standard.

I'm not in like with your thoughts of mixing, or just using the 5w20, and here is why; because when someone first gets tick they get frustrated and they really want to hear a result. It doesn't mean you wont use the 5w20, because you will, but I'd rather give you best chance to kill the tick first before you start playing around. The hemi395 example which has been a phenomenal help to the forum, showed that in some rams 5w30 or 0w30 kills the tick, and 5w20 doesn't, but during the 5w20 run the tick is substantially better, just not as good as 5w30.

So here's another thought, is that a cold state? I know you are near water which usually means no, but do you see low 40's? One thing about 5w20 is it is prefect to avoid cold piston slap if possible. So you can make an argument to just go for it since winter is approaching and it will be cold soon.

I hate that it gets this confusing trust me, but we have witnessed in cold states stuff gets complicated. The sun belt ram owners just need to nothing but 5w30. And part of me is geared to try and get guy on one weight of oil for year round service if possible. Thanks to the work of hemi395 and others, we have found out that 0w30 redline is almost as good as 5w30 at tick killing, but way better at avoiding cold piston slap.

So if you are asking what I would do if I were you, one man's opinion, shelf the 5w20 just for now, we will come up with a plan later, but go get you some 0w30 redline and a RP filter, and maybe wait til it get's cold before you change the oil. As for what to do asap, go get some lubegard biotech "poor man's redline" and dump it in asap. I say wait a bit for 0w30 because the oil is at it's strongest at stopping cold piston slap or hemi tick when first used and vii's are at full strength. In cold areas guys need to realize this, the greatest need is to have the freshest oil in the cold, not the summer. If you oil is 2 mos old when winter starts, your oil will simply not have the same cold performance as if it was fresh oil.

Just a suggestion, you can make an argument to just go for it and use that 5w20.

 

[Burla]

Another thought, if the 0w30 does kill that tick, then I like the idea of mixing 5w20 with 5w30 moving forward, because 20 weight is better then 30 at stopping piston slap even if it is a 0 winter rated oil. And in theory this mix will be as good as the 0w30 at killing the tick.

If it doesn't see 40's there, and like you said you are garaged, then yes the best oil you will get for this is 5w30 redline. Sorry I just am not familiar with your area's weather.

 

[Gary2]

We do get to single digits in winter sometimes . We also usually get a stretch of a couple weeks of below 32 . Like I said though its garage kept and even in the winter the garage is never below 65 . The only time it gets started in the real cold temps is if I happen to have it shut off for a couple hours in the cold stuff . I have about 4,000 miles on the existing Pennzoil platinum 5w-20 in it . I can leave it sit like today was 75 degrees earlier for about an hour and she will tick when started up. Maybe I will just dump some lube guard in it soon , I have a MOPAR filter on it now and I also have an SRT filter for future use. Maybe when it gets cooler I will change the oil then . We are only talking maybe 5-600 miles till Thanksgiving being Im retired now .

Edit . I will get Lubeguard for now and Around Thanksgiving I will change the oil to the 5w-20 and see how that works .

 

[Burla]

We do get to single digits in winter sometimes . We also usually get a stretch of a couple weeks of below 32 . Like I said though its garage kept and even in the winter the garage is never below 65 . The only time it gets started in the real cold temps is if I happen to have it shut off for a couple hours in the cold stuff . I have about 4,000 miles on the existing Pennzoil platinum 5w-20 in it . I can leave it sit like today was 75 degrees earlier for about an hour and she will tick when started up. Maybe I will just dump some lube guard in it soon , I have a MOPAR filter on it now and I also have an SRT filter for future use. Maybe when it gets cooler I will change the oil then . We are only talking maybe 5-600 miles till Thanksgiving being Im retired now .

Edit . I will get Lubeguard for now and Around Thanksgiving I will change the oil to the 5w-20 and see how that works .

good plan, update either or both threads with your results. We want failures and successes all recorded. give some time for the products to work, that is the science of their additives, like 500 miles.

redline tick poll

lubegard tick poll

 

[Gary2]

will do , just ordered the Lubeguard , thanks for the advice

EDIT : I just checked , I only have 2700 miles on the existing Pennzoil Platinum so I drained out a little oil to make room for Lubeguard. Probably wont get the 5-20 in till after Christmas or better at this rate . Should give the Lubeguard long enough time to make a change in the Tick .

 

[tron67j]

Has anyone been able to buy PUP 0W-40 in a 5-qt bottle? I can't seem to find that anywhere and the individual bottles are very expensive.

 

[Burla]

Amazon 6 pack 44 bucks, kind of what the 5 ltr was as well? The 0w40 has always been more expensive then 5w20/5w30.

 

[Murphy Slaw]

I don't see how to change my vote ?