Synthetic Oil

[corneileous]

I wonder if this crank failure talk while using tow/haul mode all the time would be grounds for warranty claim denial if they were to um, figure that out??

I only use my tow/haul mode when I tow but, I’m just strictly curious. As many times as I’ve thumbed through my manual, I don’t recall seeing a disclaimer about over usage of the tow/haul feature.




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[AFMoulton]

I wonder if this crank failure talk while using tow/haul mode all the time would be grounds for warranty claim denial if they were to um, figure that out??

I only use my tow/haul mode when I tow but, I’m just strictly curious. As many times as I’ve thumbed through my manual, I don’t recall seeing a disclaimer about over usage of the tow/haul feature.




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There isn’t one, and there would be very little they could say.....you could just tell them you were hauling heavy in the bed. I’m not worried about it. I’ve heard all it really does is increase line pressure in the trans to make shifts faster and engine braking. Also locks up torque converter.

I don’t even use it when I tow, not even my 10320# monster. I put the trans in manual mode, and manage my top gear myself, I get better gas mileage and I can pre-game hills easier that way.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 4 Qts 5W-30 and 3 Qts 0W-40
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[R.L.K.]

Finally got a hot day that i could drive for a good 40 min on the highway. This is in regards to the trans thermal bypass removal.

This was the highest it got at the end of the 40min drive.

Normally this would be 172 on the money. So basically 35 degrees less at full opp temp in Michigan summers. M

Kyle happy[emoji847].
Thanks AGAIN!! To Corey for finding this, Jeff for the install video and to all you other bum’s that were involved. .... well besides Ron, he’s just full of hot air[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji6]

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

I heard that [emoji16][emoji16]

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[R.L.K.]

And I said **** it and used T/H mode on my way home.

Ill risk it


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Idiot [emoji16]

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[R.L.K.]

Number 4 is a thrust bearing. Number 1 is crank bearing.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Is that a chainsaw ?

Of course it is [emoji4]

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[R.L.K.]

I could write a book on thrust bearings , as they are a very important part of so many designs from XSMN's , engines , gearboxes and simple products .
Basically the aid in support of axial loads ...axial isn't only for and aft or left and right on an axis , this can also be vertical ( up & down ) or at any angle ° .

Trust bearings are typically a ball type bearing , but can be a tapered bearing ( like a wheel bearing , or a specific type roller bearing depending on the design of the inner & outer race .

Here's a pretty good article an thrust bearings .



https://itstillruns.com/thrust-bearing-work-5747599.html

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[Burla]

I could write a book on thrust bearings , as they are a very important part of so many designs from XSMN's , engines , gearboxes and simple products .
Basically the aid in support of axial loads ...axial isn't only for and aft or left and right on an axis , this can also be vertical ( up & down ) or at any angle ° .

Trust bearings are typically a ball type bearing , but can be a tapered bearing ( like a wheel bearing , or a specific type roller bearing depending on the design of the inner & outer race .

Here's a pretty good article an thrust bearings .



https://itstillruns.com/thrust-bearing-work-5747599.html

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thanks brother

I told you that you have to stop calling Kyle an idiot until you get your chainsaw back. Especially since it appears he will have replaced every single part on the thing. When you get it back, fire away. I tell you guys, if you have an old chain saw needing to be fixed, U&A is the man, if he aint too busy making us Mopar signs.

 

[U&A]

thanks brother

I told you that you have to stop calling Kyle an idiot until you get your chainsaw back. Especially since it appears he will have replaced every single part on the thing. When you get it back, fire away. I tell you guys, if you have an old chain saw needing to be fixed, U&A is the man, if he aint too busy making us Mopar signs.

[emoji847]


[emoji3596][emoji3596]

Mike just....



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

I could write a book on thrust bearings , as they are a very important part of so many designs from XSMN's , engines , gearboxes and simple products .
Basically the aid in support of axial loads ...axial isn't only for and aft or left and right on an axis , this can also be vertical ( up & down ) or at any angle ° .

Trust bearings are typically a ball type bearing , but can be a tapered bearing ( like a wheel bearing , or a specific type roller bearing depending on the design of the inner & outer race .

Here's a pretty good article an thrust bearings .



https://itstillruns.com/thrust-bearing-work-5747599.html

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Very cool sir. Thanks for sharing.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

Idiot [emoji16]

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[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji1303][emoji41]

I deserved that [emoji16]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

Question for everyone.

A hypothetical....for The guys out of warranty.


On your way to work this morning your engine craps itself and you lose a major component like your Cam and entering value train need replacing.


What would you do?

Fix it with OEM?
Get a new truck and wash your hands of it?
Go full **** and do high-performance aftermarket everything?

Im still in powertrain warranty.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[chrisbh17]

Question for everyone.

A hypothetical....for The guys out of warranty.


On your way to work this morning your engine craps itself and you lose a major component like your Cam and entering value train need replacing.


What would you do?

Fix it with OEM?
Get a new truck and wash your hands of it?
Go full **** and do high-performance aftermarket everything?

Im still in powertrain warranty.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Depends on condition and age of truck but assuming decent body condition and, say, 2011+, I would tune it so I could delete MDS then use the hellcat parts to fix it. Probably all work done by myself so cost shouldn't be a big deal.

Performance isn't a huge thing to me in a truck. I mean my last truck had a whopping 160hp....


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[tidefan1967]

Question for everyone.

A hypothetical....for The guys out of warranty.


On your way to work this morning your engine craps itself and you lose a major component like your Cam and entering value train need replacing.


What would you do?

Fix it with OEM?
Get a new truck and wash your hands of it?
Go full **** and do high-performance aftermarket everything?

Im still in powertrain warranty.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

I have the lifetime warranty myself and honestly I have no desire to wrench on newer vehicles unless its preventative maintenance which I still enjoy doing. That being said I would most definitely go with non MDS lifters and a mild aftermarket cam, headers, tune, the works. Why the **** not. If you put the same ole **** back in you might end up with the same problem again down the road somewhere.

New vehicle prices are insane. I remember saying to myself about 30 years ago that I would never spend more than $10k on a vehicle and now here we are where you can't buy **** for less than $30K and that's a ******* car. I need to make this one last awhile so whatever it takes. One more after this and that should take me to check out hopefully.

Honestly though I think Redline will take care of business over the long haul and ^ won't be a problem.

 

[U&A]

Depends on condition and age of truck but assuming decent body condition and, say, 2011+, I would tune it so I could delete MDS then use the hellcat parts to fix it. Probably all work done by myself so cost shouldn't be a big deal.

Performance isn't a huge thing to me in a truck. I mean my last truck had a whopping 160hp....


Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Talking about your current truck right now if it happened today...


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Hemi395]

Question for everyone.

A hypothetical....for The guys out of warranty.


On your way to work this morning your engine craps itself and you lose a major component like your Cam and entering value train need replacing.


What would you do?

Fix it with OEM?
Get a new truck and wash your hands of it?
Go full **** and do high-performance aftermarket everything?

Im still in powertrain warranty.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

I'd fix it, probably with some updated aftermarket parts. It's still way cheaper than a new truck....

 

[chrisbh17]

Talking about your current truck right now if it happened today...


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Mine isn't out of warranty but chances are it would be in just about the same condition it is now once it is.

So yes, I would fix it no doubt.

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[R.L.K.]

Depends on condition and age of truck but assuming decent body condition and, say, 2011+, I would tune it so I could delete MDS then use the hellcat parts to fix it. Probably all work done by myself so cost shouldn't be a big deal.

Performance isn't a huge thing to me in a truck. I mean my last truck had a whopping 160hp....


Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I was gonna say what I'd do , but you said it first ...I'd do exactly what you said as far as the parts , my labor and a tune to delete MDS [emoji1360]

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[AFMoulton]

I would re-build it, myself.
1) New Tools
2) New Skills (I’m pretty mechanically inclined but this would be a first)
3) I’d used Performance Parts
A) Hotter Cam
B) Maybe new heads
C) Way better lifters
D) performance intake & CAI
E) Headers
F) Tune
G) Maybe forced Air????? [emoji848][emoji848]


I’ve too invested in this truck to just dump it, if I could find a nice SRT crate engine I may go that route too. Best part? I have the Altima to drive till I get the truck fixed.

So short answer for Kyle, “Full ****”




2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 4 Qts 5W-30 and 3 Qts 0W-40
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[huntergreen]

Anyone ever run nokian tires ? Looking at the WG-04 for wife's 16 cherokee. Between these and cooper grand touring ultra cs5. Thanks all.

 

[Zack02]

He said they’ve replaced engines in trucks before from thrust bearing failures where guys have driven in tow haul all the time.

Interesting, thanks for sharing. This article going into some detail on it. I know Ram is the only HD truck to still come in manual; I wonder how many of those he replaced were towing 24/7 vs unloaded T/H. My guess is if you not constantly beating on the trans, the trans isn' constantly beating on the thrust bearing thru the drive-line. https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/thrust-bearing-failure-prevention-analysis/

On your way to work this morning your engine craps itself and you lose a major component like your Cam and entering value train need replacing.

I can tell ya; fixing it, driving it until it time to sell, and selling it, is the way to go. Regardless if it's paid off or not. Either way, I would just get a create for it. Personally, I'm not going to rebuilt with all of those particulates floating around.

Just straight dollars it makes sense:
Trade in: $20,000 (made up)
Private party with a blown engine: 8-10,000? Everything blown up on CL is 1/3 price here.
Crate engine 5k. (Assuming you do the work)
20,000-5,000=15,000
Still more than offloading it blown up. And if you can get a shop or a buddy to swap it for 5,000, it's a wash. Still vehicles are not investments. Assets, yeah. Investments, not even close.

In the case of my third gen, it was $6,000 to swap the 4.7 (paying a shop), and it was $8-10,000 for a comparable truck (without the 0 miles engine)....no brainier.

Now, if your upside down in your loan, you've got bigger problems, imo.