Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Burla

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@Hemi395, The video of your HEMI at 100 miles on Red Line 5w/30 sounds much better and hopefully will continue to get better ... are you going to keep experimenting with different oils or keep on using Red Line?
im not sure he can help himself, lol. There has to be some name for it, syntheticoilitus?
 

knightjp

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Hpl euro 5w30 would be a good one for @Hemi395 to try or supercar 5w40. Or we could put the moly vs ester debate to bed and @Hemi395 could come get some delvac 1 5w40 from 2003 in there from da up. Base oil is 75% pao 25% ester and no moly. 150 boron, 1500 zinc and 1300 phosphorus and a 12 tbn!!!
This is what I would suggest @Hemi395 try next... The specs look as good as Redline and according to David, it has more moly but less zddm.
I would certainly be taking up David on his offer closer to my next oil change. Right now, I want the first two changes to be Redline before I go ahead with any other oil.
The goal after this current rebuild is prevention. My previous experiments with Castrol was a bust. Didn't prevent anything. HPL (hploil.com version) seemed to be good, but according to David only had 80ppm of moly. So its basically just like Castrol. Wzsn't really going to do the job in curing the tick. Well.. I gave it a shot.. Now we know.
 

Burla

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Is it not interesting the valvoline failed so quickly, but yet did keep it quiet for a while. I say this because imo it was viscosity related relief and not moly in this case, when he had fresh 0w20 with fresh vii's his hemi was quiet, but then his tick came back despite high moly. Just more of a conundrum, the best answer we have is perhaps moly is just part of the answer. If that is the case, then the extra moly in hpl might not be enough to do whatever redline is doing. more testing of hpl is needed for sure, one wasnt enough to say it wont be helpful (knightgp).
 

knightjp

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I'll paypal you your first $25 if you want to try HPL Euro 5w-30 next. Maybe someone else here would be willing to help fund a test too.

Your truck should be bought by the ram forum for scientific testing. It's literally perfect. Hey hemi, how do you like these apples? Yes? No? Ok lets try the next one.
Maybe I should tell David to give @Hemi395 that same offer he gave me. He's got the tick and David is keen to know whether his oil can cure it. He's pretty confident of it.
 

Travis8352

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wait, from what hemiman and travis was saying, would supercar 0w30 be the best shot at hpl killing tick?
The euro 5w30 looks good to but i believe it might be a mid saps euro formula. Supercar 0w30 looks great on paper. Thick 30 just like the old redline 0w30. The 5w40 supercar looks good to. Same add pack.
 

knightjp

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Is it not interesting the valvoline failed so quickly, but yet did keep it quiet for a while. I say this because imo it was viscosity related relief and not moly in this case, when he had fresh 0w20 with fresh vii's his hemi was quiet, but then his tick came back despite high moly. Just more of a conundrum, the best answer we have is perhaps moly is just part of the answer. If that is the case, then the extra moly in hpl might not be enough to do whatever redline is doing. more testing of hpl is needed for sure, one wasnt enough to say it wont be helpful (knightgp).
You may have a point there.. Perhaps the clue to Redline working so well to cure the tick could just be obvious only on the bottle.
Redline.png
"Ester-based High Performance Lubricant with Extra Zddp for wear control."
Could it be that simple? Sometimes a mystery has the simplest explanation.
Maybe it not the just the moly.. Or maybe its not the moly at all. I don't know what percentage of motor oils are Ester based.. I'm knew to this whole thing. I don't know if HPL is Ester-based. Maybe it is.. Maybe its not. Doesn't say on the label.
 

Burla

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You may have a point there.. Perhaps the clue to Redline working so well to cure the tick could just be obvious only on the bottle.
View attachment 514623
"Ester-based High Performance Lubricant with Extra Zddp for wear control."
Could it be that simple? Sometimes a mystery has the simplest explanation.
Maybe it not the just the moly.. Or maybe its not the moly at all. I don't know what percentage of motor oils are Ester based.. I'm knew to this whole thing. I don't know if HPL is Ester-based. Maybe it is.. Maybe its not. Doesn't say on the label.
the funny thing being the other tick killer on the board biotech, also has esters. but corey had some success with valvoline and better success amsoil 0w40, so whatever, I surrender, it is what it is.
 

Travis8352

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the funny thing being the other tick killer on the board biotech, also has esters. but corey had some success with valvoline and better success amsoil 0w40, so whatever, I surrender, it is what it is.
Does redline have a good slug of boron like amsoil does?
 

knightjp

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wait, from what hemiman and travis was saying, would supercar 0w30 be the best shot at hpl killing tick?
Don't know about that.. but here is a pdf for the specs.
the funny thing being the other tick killer on the board biotech, also has esters. but corey had some success with valvoline and better success amsoil 0w40, so whatever, I surrender, it is what it is.
This thread, the guy says AMSoil 0W40 also has a good amount of Esters.. so I think we're looking at Esters being the key ingredient for killing the tick.
 

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knightjp

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Maybe I'll just stick with Redline...(of course the fact I've got enuf on hand for the next 5 years has somewhat to do with that decision!)
That is the simplest option. Either that, or run PUP 5W30 with Lubgard Biotech with every oil change. If PUP is not available, use any good oil like Castrol Edge, but make sure to use Biotech..
 

HK1837

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That he is.. I will certainly take him up on that offer. Its just that I bought RL oil already to be used after the lifters are changed and rebuild is done.
Looking at the specs, very close to Redline 5W30... if the moly and zddm ppm is about the same or better than Redline, I guess we have a winner for a Redline alternative. Sadly, this version of HPL isn't readily available here in Dubai. I would be looking to get some Redline 5w40 shipped over and may take David up on the offer while I'm at it.
Ask him if he wants to ship some to Australia!
 

Hemi395

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@Hemi395, The video of your HEMI at 100 miles on Red Line 5w/30 sounds much better and hopefully will continue to get better ... are you going to keep experimenting with different oils or keep on using Red Line?

Well let's say no for now, I really didn't like the way it sounded.
But I've said that before:cool:
 

kahmed17

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We run pup 0 40 in all are dodges year 17 to 23, 1500 to 2500 , 5.7 to 6.4 we used to use M1 but switched over to the pup srt formula for the moly content , seems to make all are dodges happy and these trucks are worked hard like trucks are supposed too. Also anyone reading this with a new hemi be sure to drop that factory oil out before 1500 and do NOT go with factory recommended service of “ wait till the light comes on “ the oil out of all are trucks at 1500 miles was jet black and full of metal shavings and was not healthy looking at all to be putting another 5000 miles on it waiting for the light to come on. Drop the oil at 1500 then at 3000 and again at 5000 after that every 5000 miles for the life of the truck
 

kahmed17

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We run pup 0 40 in all are dodges year 17 to 23, 1500 to 2500 , 5.7 to 6.4 we used to use M1 but switched over to the pup srt formula for the moly content , seems to make all are dodges happy and these trucks are worked hard like trucks are supposed too. Also anyone reading this with a new hemi be sure to drop that factory oil out before 1500 and do NOT go with factory recommended service of “ wait till the light comes on “ the oil out of all are trucks at 1500 miles was jet black and full of metal shavings and was not healthy looking at all to be putting another 5000 miles on it waiting for the light to come on. Drop the oil at 1500 then at 3000 and again at 5000 after that every 5000 miles for the life of the truck
Also be sure to only use quality oil filters I can’t stress this enough I see a lot people discussing oil types but not the filter don’t have bottomless pockets for oil than chince out on the filter. We only use the mopar srt filter or purolator boss filter.
 

Burla

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I encourage you to look up oil filter thread sir. Two very good pages 1 and 93 for some actual testing results.
 
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