Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 254 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 344 11.4%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 427 14.2%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 174 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 1,076 35.7%
  • Other

    Votes: 736 24.4%

  • Total voters
    3,011

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turkeybird56

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I see folks talk about adding 15oz Lubegard but they suggest adding 3oz for every quart of oil, so I'd be looking at around 21oz of Lubegard. I can order (2) 10oz bottles for my next oil change instead of the 15oz I added last time.

Any thoughts? 15oz vs 20oz? :shrug:

I already have the RP filter and Red Line waiting in the garage.
Nah, no thoughts, I just go with the 15OZ. You would have to "ask" Burla on that particular amount cause Lubeguard sells in specific sizes ounces, 10, 15, 32, but not 21, lol. All good though, my ride is a Driveway Princess anyway. Hmmm, maybe I need to get a 10 oz bottle and split, hmmmm, but I still have to order my oil ne way.
 

Burla

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I see folks talk about adding 15oz Lubegard but they suggest adding 3oz for every quart of oil, so I'd be looking at around 21oz of Lubegard. I can order (2) 10oz bottles for my next oil change instead of the 15oz I added last time.

Any thoughts? 15oz vs 20oz? :shrug:

I already have the RP filter and Red Line waiting in the garage.
It would be a very narrow reason to use redline plus biotech, like I wouldnt recommend that 99% of the time, mixing two ester products. Literally the only timer I would even try this is if redline is in and tick is still present,, Then I might try it only to see if then the tick would be gone.

The recommended amount is for engines that run normally, since we tend to run biotech for hemi tick the correct dose would be up to 32 ounces. I like the 15-16 ounce amount for most cases, if by chance 32 ounces is needed to kill tick assuming group 3 oil In 7 quart sump, I'm gonna call that generally safe. In the case you run 32 ounces, I'd add one quart of your oil at a higher weight so viscosity doesn't thin. Two considerations, using biotech in good running hemi versus hemi tick engine. The best way to use biotech is use less and see if you get the desirable result, but you can adjust as needed. Also, the science and forum experience suggests sometimes the relief is not immediate, so give lesser amount time before you adjust.
 

turkeybird56

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It would be a very narrow reason to use redline plus biotech, like I wouldnt recommend that 99% of the time, mixing two ester products. Literally the only timer I would even try this is if redline is in and tick is still present,, Then I might try it only to see if then the tick would be gone.

The recommended amount is for engines that run normally, since we tend to run biotech for hemi tick the correct dose would be up to 32 ounces. I like the 15-16 ounce amount for most cases, if by chance 32 ounces is needed to kill tick assuming group 3 oil In 7 quart sump, I'm gonna call that generally safe. In the case you run 32 ounces, I'd add one quart of your oil at a higher weight so viscosity doesn't thin. Two considerations, using biotech in good running hemi versus hemi tick engine. The best way to use biotech is use less and see if you get the desirable result, but you can adjust as needed. Also, the science and forum experience suggests sometimes the relief is not immediate, so give lesser amount time before you adjust.
I figure I am good for 15 oz on 5W 20, as no tick, more preventative since truck sits most of the time.
 

Curmudgeon

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It would be a very narrow reason to use redline plus biotech, like I wouldnt recommend that 99% of the time, mixing two ester products. Literally the only timer I would even try this is if redline is in and tick is still present,, Then I might try it only to see if then the tick would be gone.

The recommended amount is for engines that run normally, since we tend to run biotech for hemi tick the correct dose would be up to 32 ounces. I like the 15-16 ounce amount for most cases, if by chance 32 ounces is needed to kill tick assuming group 3 oil In 7 quart sump, I'm gonna call that generally safe. In the case you run 32 ounces, I'd add one quart of your oil at a higher weight so viscosity doesn't thin. Two considerations, using biotech in good running hemi versus hemi tick engine. The best way to use biotech is use less and see if you get the desirable result, but you can adjust as needed. Also, the science and forum experience suggests sometimes the relief is not immediate, so give lesser amount time before you adjust.

I currently have a sump full of Red Line 5w-30 and 15oz of Lubegard since last OCI, been a little over 5k miles. I'll do a UOA very soon at next OCI, at which point I'll try using just the Red Line. I have no tick.

I'll have 2 bottles of 10oz Lubegard in the garage, I can use it in my wife's 4-banger at her next OCI, or drop it in my Hemi in case a tick develops.

It might be interesting to see the UOAs with/without Lubegard while running the same Red Line 5w-30, but my next OCI will be about 6-10 months out.
Thanks for you input @Burla !
 

Hemi395

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Question for you guys, if you had oil temps of 255⁰ for over an hour while towing and it was hovering in the 240s the rest of a 12 hour trip, would you change your oil just based on that?SS0w40 is the oil.

Im tempted to change it just based on the maintained high temps.

Also might look into an oil cooler...
 

GeauxinUp

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Question for you guys, if you had oil temps of 255⁰ for over an hour while towing and it was hovering in the 240s the rest of a 12 hour trip, would you change your oil just based on that?SS0w40 is the oil.

Im tempted to change it just based on the maintained high temps.

Also might look into an oil cooler...
I don’t have any data or science to back it up, but I’d change it based on the “severity” of the trip.
 

HEMIMANN

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I posted the oil life expectancy curve a while back, based on experimental evidence.

I don't have time to hunt it down today, but it goes as follows:

For every 18F above 140F, oil oxidation life is reduced 50%.

Plot the curve, then follow it to 220F, which is app. std. sump oil temp target for std. OCI's. Then follow the curve up to 255F to see the reduction.

The 35F temp diff will show 25% oil life if you run the entire OCI @ 255F sump oil temp.

So if you do 5,000 mile OCI with 220F sump, you would need to change OCI to 1,250 miles. But your 220F OCI is too conservative for oxidation, it is for contamination control to cam lobe lube. If not for that, maybe 10,000 mile OCI would be reasonable for oxidation @ normal 220F sump, so then you'd reduce OCI to 2,500 miles.

SUMMARY: cut your OCI by half if you run all the time @ 255F.
 

Burla

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Question for you guys, if you had oil temps of 255⁰ for over an hour while towing and it was hovering in the 240s the rest of a 12 hour trip, would you change your oil just based on that?SS0w40 is the oil.

Im tempted to change it just based on the maintained high temps.

Also might look into an oil cooler...
How many miles on oil? Shorten life yes, but nuke it if it is like 500 miles on the oci, I wouldnt do personally. Man it aint even summer yet, this was n carolina was hot outside?

The chicken and the egg conversation, is it better to change oil before of after a trip, lol.
 

turkeybird56

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Chicken: Close to OCI: Change
Chicken: Lots of OCI time: Wait for the egg.

Hee hee, just IMHO and my inane sense of humor. But I also stay with quality oils and filters. I do not cheap out on those items. Heck I run Full Synth and quality filter ref my MC also: But big difference between a Hemi V8 and a Boxster V6 (1832 CC) (1.8L) in my Goldwing.

army turk1.JPG
 

Burla

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2025 Corolla Cross 3.097 curb w- 31 mpg's verified.
Sames miles 50mph highway

Port injected 4 speed versus direct injected cvt. They just ruined vehicles, the new car just isn't even fun to drive. No I ain't saying nothing, last thing I need is Darwin to want to change again, so I play if off, yeah yeah man this thing is great. It is still better then 90% of the stuff out there (no diffs trans axle no turbo, all is good there), but it's all junk imo. I'm just updating the mileage cause I said I would, 31 mpg's.
 

HEMIMANN

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2010 rav 4 3300 curb w- religiously 29 mpg
2025 Corolla Cross 3.097 curb w- 31 mpg's verified.
Sames miles 50mph highway

Port injected 4 speed versus direct injected cvt. They just ruined vehicles, the new car just isn't even fun to drive. No I ain't saying nothing, last thing I need is Darwin to want to change again, so I play if off, yeah yeah man this thing is great. It is still better then 90% of the stuff out there (no diffs trans axle no turbo, all is good there), but it's all junk imo. I'm just updating the mileage cause I said I would, 31 mpg's.

There's your Mitsubishi +5% mileage. Like that matters.

Meanwhile, the engine is inundated with blowby soot an unburned gas as if it were a Briggs and Stratton flathead 6:1 CR from the 60's.

And I haven't even dragged the Harley out yet to unwind. Finally warming up now. I've seen guys riding with winter parka coats on. What's "fun" about that?
 

Hemi395

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How many miles on oil? Shorten life yes, but nuke it if it is like 500 miles on the oci, I wouldnt do personally. Man it aint even summer yet, this was n carolina was hot outside?

The chicken and the egg conversation, is it better to change oil before of after a trip, lol.
I'm in Virginia for the week and it's abnormally warm here for late April. It's been 80+ here so far this week. Couldn't ask for better camping weather.

Oil has about 2000 miles on it with 800 of it being towing. I had changed it last fall and only put about 1200 miles on the truck since then. So figured another 700+ miles home with oil temps up there probably until we hit NY state.

However what im concerned anout is we're going to northern New Hampshire in July and I definitely will be pulling up mountains then.

Probably should change it before then....
 

Burla

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Yeah that was my thought as well. Might try and find some RL 5w30 this time.

Imagine if I was running the recommended dino 5w20 oil with prolonged 255⁰ oil temps :eek:
So how does this work, you and your wife both take weeks of together early in late spring to go camping with the boys? You guys avoid impacted camp sites this way? Plus it sounds like perfect weather, very smart. How you boys get outta school :)
 

Hemi395

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So how does this work, you and your wife both take weeks of together early in late spring to go camping with the boys? You guys avoid impacted camp sites this way? Plus it sounds like perfect weather, very smart. How you boys get outta school :)
So we have to put in our vacations at the beginning of the year for the year. We both work for the same company and both get 4 weeks so we pick this week in April when the kids have their spring vacation and then one in July. Both of those are our big camping trips. The other 2 weeks we rarely both get the same weeks.

But yeah I wasn't expecting 80s this week lol more like 50s and 60s. When we left it was in the 40s, the truck ran nice and cool then lol
 

Hemi395

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You have to go through Jersey to make it home? News said some big fires over there, check routes before you head home.
Only a little bit, I go around all the cities. I go rt 81 for most of it. There's a lot of truck stops on that route that makes fueling up with the camper easy.
 

Burla

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Only a little bit, I go around all the cities. I go rt 81 for most of it. There's a lot of truck stops on that route that makes fueling up with the camper easy.
looks like the fire is close to the ocean as of now.

I completely forgot about spring break, lol. Now I remember always after Easter.
 
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