T-Case Fluid

[Taylor513]

I hate being that guy since there has been topics on this and I don't want to beat a dead horse but I've been reading about transfer case fluid for about 2 days now and it seems to be clear as mud. I have a 2015 with the 4 Auto so transfer case 44-44. My question is do I use the mopar fluid that's about $30 per quart or is using redline safe? Also at what miles are guys changing out your fluid?

 

[Lyle Longboat]

Nice to know this as well!

 

[U&A]

@Hemi395

Redline C+ATF is safe. Frequency in my opinion depends on how often you use it. I use it often. I change mine every other year, or about every 15,000-20,000 miles



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Hemi395]

I refuse to pay $30/qt for the Mopar fluid so I've tried Redline C+ and Amsoil MVATF in it and with either they tcase worked flawlessly. I would stick with ATF+4 if you don't want to spend the $$$ on RL or Amsoil. I change mine every other year depending on how much I use 4wd. If it's a bad winter and I'm using 4wd often I'll change it after that winter.

In 2014 FCA said ATF+4 was fine for the 44-45 (non 4Auto tcase) as well as the HD tcases. Now they call for the $30/qt fluid in ALL tcases.

Sounds like a money maker to me....

 

[U&A]

If I remember right it’s only some thing like 2-3 quarts max so it’s worth the extra money for a good fluid and frequent changes IMO

But there’s seriously nothing wrong with just using standard Chrysler transmission fluid ATF+4.

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[MRFREEZE57]

changed mine with redline, have had no problems with it. redline is a good product, and cost less than half the price of the mopar stuff.

 

[joshuaeb09]

I run C+ in mine as well and have since it was only a few months old. If I remember correctly the Mopar unicorn blood is just a friction modified Dex III fluid so it's nothing special and I'd take regular +4 all day for the price. My Unicorn Blood actually looked burnt after doing some 4 high launches on the street and haven't seen anything like that with C+. T-Case does seem to work a bit better in Auto mode running C+ as well.

 

[Hemi395]

I run C+ in mine as well and have since it was only a few months old. If I remember correctly the Mopar unicorn blood is just a friction modified Dex III fluid so it's nothing special and I'd take regular +4 all day for the price. My Unicorn Blood actually looked burnt after doing some 4 high launches on the street and haven't seen anything like that with C+. T-Case does seem to work a bit better in Auto mode running C+ as well.

Yup I did VOAs on DEX3 and the Mopar fluid and they were virtually identical...

 

[Burla]

I hate being that guy since there has been topics on this and I don't want to beat a dead horse but I've been reading about transfer case fluid for about 2 days now and it seems to be clear as mud. I have a 2015 with the 4 Auto so transfer case 44-44. My question is do I use the mopar fluid that's about $30 per quart or is using redline safe? Also at what miles are guys changing out your fluid?

The transfer case fluid gets very dirty even if you don't use 4x4 much, so I would set the transfer case fluid at the same interval as the transmission if you have rfe, if not rfe I wouldn't go past 60k miles w/o changing, especially since it is so easy to change. With transfer case make sure not to over torque bolt, it will crack the cover. Redline c+ in my t case, it's liquid gold and stupid low price.

 

[Taylor513]

@Hemi395

Redline C+ATF is safe. Frequency in my opinion depends on how often you use it. I use it often. I change mine every other year, or about every 15,000-20,000 miles



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Good to know, I'm at 57K and I don't think it's ever been changed so i'll be taking care of it soon.

 

[Taylor513]

The transfer case fluid gets very dirty even if you don't use 4x4 much, so I would set the transfer case fluid at the same interval as the transmission if you have rfe, if not rfe I wouldn't go past 60k miles w/o changing, especially since it is so easy to change. With transfer case make sure not to over torque bolt, it will crack the cover. Redline c+ in my t case, it's liquid gold and stupid low price.

I'm creeping up on 60K so I'll be ordering some fluids today. I'm curious to see how the dirty the fluid in there looks. Is there specific torque settings for the bolt or just kind of common sense, keep it snug and dont over do it.

 

[Taylor513]

Appreciate all the replies, I think I know what fluids I'll be going with. I've already bough all the other fluids except for the T case since I wasn't sure. Doing all my fluids except my transmission. T Case, Engine Oil, Rear Diff, Front Diff

 

[Taylor513]

Just want to confirm with you guys, this is what you're running right?

 

[Hemi395]

Just want to confirm with you guys, this is what you're running right?

View attachment 197953

Yup that's it[emoji106]

 

[Hemi395]

Also if you can set aside some time to let everything drip for a few hours. You want to get as much of the old fluid out of the diffs and tcase as possible...

 

[Taylor513]

Also if you can set aside some time to let everything drip for a few hours. You want to get as much of the old fluid out of the diffs and tcase as possible...

Want your BW44-44 to fully lock? Contact @Brandon-w for a locking switch

Good to know! I will do that, I'm going to do it on a day off with nothing to do and let them all drain for a couple hours. My two questions are.. I'm assuming you want the oil to be warm and then it takes 1.5 quarts right? My manual wasn't specifying the quantity

 

[Burla]

I'm creeping up on 60K so I'll be ordering some fluids today. I'm curious to see how the dirty the fluid in there looks. Is there specific torque settings for the bolt or just kind of common sense, keep it snug and dont over do it.

There is and it is low, but I don't have the info. Less then 12 ft pounds I believe, maybe even as low as 4-6, I can't remember. I couldn't find my inch pounds wrench when I did mine, I only had my ft pounds torque, so I opted to paint a line. on the bolt. I used painters tape and left the middle exposed, so easy to set torque right back where it was, depth and location of screw. If you use anti seize that lessons that number as well. I'd just look at the depth as it sticks out, and tighten till it stops leaking, and maybe 1/4 turn past that, if you can't find that number or dont have the wrench.

 

[grizzstang]

I find it is easiest to take it for a drive on the highway so diffs and T-case are nice and warm.

It will come out faster and I assume take more crud with it.

Be careful in case it is hot.

 

[Burla]

Yup that's it[emoji106]

Want your BW44-44 to fully lock? Contact @Brandon-w for a locking switch

There's only one c+, I think redline misnamed it, they should have called it A+.

 

[Taylor513]

There is and it is low, but I don't have the info. Less then 12 ft pounds I believe, maybe even as low as 4-6, I can't remember. I couldn't find my inch pounds wrench when I did mine, I only had my ft pounds torque, so I opted to paint a line. on the bolt. I used painters tape and left the middle exposed, so easy to set torque right back where it was, depth and location of screw. If you use anti seize that lessons that number as well. I'd just look at the depth as it sticks out, and tighten till it stops leaking, and maybe 1/4 turn past that, if you can't find that number or dont have the wrench.

Thats a good idea, wouldn't have thought to do that. Thanks for the tip!