Thinking of purchasing a 2016 5.7 with 100k ( Tradesman ) What to check First.?

[etbrown4]

Thinking of purchasing a 2016 5.7 woth 100k ( Tradesman ) What to check First.?

Car fax looks ok ,
Shows it was a fleet for the first 80k of its life ( commercial Vehicle )
- then to the current owner for the last 20k miles -
-Only thing I can see its he said it ticks for the first 7 - 10 seconds when cold -
- Showed me receipts for the Royal Purple he used 3 times at oil chances -
- says it will be coming up on a transmission flush and a coolant flush -

- it looks very clean, u can tell he really cares for it -
I will not sweat tires and breaks and simple things - but is there anything specifically I should be checking for -
- I have Torque app and the ODBII adaptor -
- is there any codes or anything specific I should be seeing exactly -- ???

ask was 15,000

 

[ChevySlayer69]

I would pay for used vehicle inspection. If the manifold bolts aren't broken and it ticks for 7-10 seconds every startup due to lifters I would definitely not buy this truck. I would be surprised if an exaust leak (broken bolt) cleared itself up in just 7-10 seconds.

 

[etbrown4]

The tyranny, the tyranny, the tyranny.

My 2016 tyranny failed at 60k. Can be hard to tell at first with slight slips often as warming up, mostly between 1,2,and 3rd .

I've found you can tell the most on cold mornings if you can start off on a somewhat downhill road, and accelerate lightly up to 30 mph. Acellerating under normal or high power won't show much.

As my troubles progressed, I would ocassionally get a clunk between 2 and 3, again slips between gears on light accelerating downhill below 30.

If you get a flashing P or D on the shifter knob, that can be a clue of trouble coming.

Ram dealers will ignore ALL tyranny complaints until you finally get a tyranny error code. With 3 shops, they even declined to drive mine, until the code showed up.

They first replaced the tyranny valve body, hoping to save money. Finally after 4 months the gave me a new tyranny. On a hemi 1500, it's the same tyranny for 16, 18, and 2018.

I would get enough discount to buy a Ram extended warranty. You can get them online, actually from a Ram dealer for about $1500 for 2 or 3 years and about 60k additional miles.

If you do end up needing a tyranny, it will cost a fortune.

 

[Scott Nugent]

Depending on where you live, thoroughly inspect for rust, especially above the wheels and rockers. My 13 developed rust at 65k. Also spent over 3k in non warranty repair before 70k. I sold it with broken manifold bolts(2nd occurrence). Loved the ride,mpg and power, but ut was a POS by 70k.

 

[Davidloveshishemi]

Not trying to be a smart ass or anything, but seriously, New Rams are really inexpensive right now compared to other brands and some used vehicles. I bought a 2019 Ram 1500 Classic with the Hemi and 8 speed transmission including an extended warranty for $22,000 in June. That is crazy reasonable, I know some people paying more than that for small trucks with 4 or 6 cylinders in them. Why not pass on the used truck, spend a few extra dollars and get a new one with a warranty, and possibly buy the extended warranty if you want so you don’t have to worry about what someone did or did not do to it before you bought used? The crap people do to their vehicles these days I don’t know if I could stand to buy used not knowing the actual condition.

Again, not being a smart ass, I am asking a serious question.

Whatever you decide I hope it works out for you!

 

[kurek]

I bought a 2019 Ram 1500 Classic with the Hemi and 8 speed transmission including an extended warranty for $22,000 in June.

Man I thought I about stole my truck when I got it for $26k in '15

 

[Bill Cats]

Not trying to be a smart ass or anything, but seriously, New Rams are really inexpensive right now compared to other brands and some used vehicles. I bought a 2019 Ram 1500 Classic with the Hemi and 8 speed transmission including an extended warranty for $22,000 in June. That is crazy reasonable, I know some people paying more than that for small trucks with 4 or 6 cylinders in them. Why not pass on the used truck, spend a few extra dollars and get a new one with a warranty, and possibly buy the extended warranty if you want so you don’t have to worry about what someone did or did not do to it before you bought used? The crap people do to their vehicles these days I don’t know if I could stand to buy used not knowing the actual condition.

Again, not being a smart ass, I am asking a serious question.

Whatever you decide I hope it works out for you!

Great question,,,
and I did NOT want to kill u guys with details BUT actually it was a straight swap for my 2003 6.0 bulletproofed diesel powerstroke,,, I had a super nice truck with 160 on it BUT did not fit my lifestyle any longer -
SO - we did it and WE both got really nice trucks )) I love it --- )) smooth, quiet, fast, I got 20 mpg yesterday and today - nice mix of driving, and my wife loves to drive it - she was scared to drive the 250 Diesel cause of the leaf spring steering,,,

 

[Bill Cats]

I REALLLLY want to level this truck - and do a reasonable cat back system ,, rumble is ok,,, loud is not me --
can anyone tell me the exact amount of lift to the front for a stock tradesman - 1500 5.7 with a 8 speed - 4X4 - stock steel tires and rims -
and recommend a exhaust -

 

[kurek]

I REALLLLY want to level this truck - and do a reasonable cat back system ,, rumble is ok,,, loud is not me --
can anyone tell me the exact amount of lift to the front for a stock tradesman - 1500 5.7 with a 8 speed - 4X4 - stock steel tires and rims -
and recommend a exhaust -

The path of least resistance on leveling is to just get the Bilstein 5100's - if you don't consider yourself pretty hardcore offroad they work well for lots of people including myself - well if you like your off road with a side of adrenaline then pony up for big boy shocks.

Hard to guess at the exact right amount of lift for your truck, level of equipment affects weight - I'm sure you get the picture. The guess I'd venture is that you will be happy at either of the two highest lift settings on the Bilsteins, both will get you really close to level on an otherwise stock truck. You can do either lift height without buying new control arms but I ended up buying new upper arms anyway and don't regret it, they did give the alignment shop more wiggle room for getting it dialed in perfect.

FYI the 17x8" alloys from earlier generations of Ram are an easy and very inexpensive fit for Tradesmans that came with the 17x7" steel wheels - close to free almost - and you can fit 285/70R17 (about 33x11") on them without any kind of rubbing or nonsense. It's a tight fit near the upper control arm but a fit's a fit.

For exhaust your rear bumper doesn't have the cut-outs for dual exhaust so if you go that route you'll have to hang them below the bumper or buy a bumper from a higher trim level. I like the side exhaust to keep noise from bouncing off a trailer and avoid scraping the tips when I drop off ledges out here on our rougher desert roads - but that comes down to how you're going to use the vehicle. If power is your objective it seems everyone agrees the biggest bottleneck in the exhaust is the Y-pipe but that's not a bolt on fix you need to weld or have a muffler shop solve that one for you. I haven't bothered, 395 is enough for what I do.

 

[Bill Cats]

hey, thank you for the input, I should have specified that I'm 60, and the only reason that I'm putting the exhaust on there is one I hate the way that mufflers hanging out of the back wheel well, and its really really too quiet, I like a rumble, I don't necessarily need to go to a dual exhaust, I would be happy bolting on a exhaust from catalytic converters back that has a mean rumble to it, any suggestions?

you know I'm going to ask instead of just doing it shamefully, so here goes
there are very cheap spacers for 2 and 1/2 inch lift front on eBay, for like 50 bucks, if I'm never a off-road Guy what's the danger in them ,, just putting it out here?
These are in effect a spacer with a plate with three holes at the top.

 

[kurek]

Absolutely no on the spacer. The hole on all of them is large enough that in 20k miles the upper strut bushing will just push through it and then you will need to buy new struts and upper strut mounts anyway. Not worth the BS.

The bilsteins are less than $200 for the pair and they are a permanent and proven solution. There are other lift struts too, any of them which achieves the lift by preloading the spring is going to be good. The spacers aren't worth the trouble unless you have a very specific reason and you address the punch through problem

 

[Jrod]

I’ll second the Bilstien’s. I’ve had them on my truck for a long time now. I set them at 2.8 with 1.5” rear spacers on stock size AT3’s. Love the setup. Tons of other people on here use them too.

 

[Bill Cats]

I’ll second the Bilstien’s. I’ve had them on my truck for a long time now. I set them at 2.8 with 1.5” rear spacers on stock size AT3’s. Love the setup. Tons of other people on here use them too.

Thank you -
can you send me the exact links to your setup ))) i love it also ))))

 

[Jrod]

Thank you -
can you send me the exact links to your setup ))) i love it also ))))

Thanks

Here's the list, just paste them in to google to find a recent vendor:

Bilstein 5100 set at 2.8 / TCG 1.5 rear spacers. These settings will retain a 1" rake vs. the 3" factory rake.

I run Mevotech upper control arms, but if you don't take yours off-road you can keep your stock ones.

Stock size FALKEN Wildpeak AT3's

and HELLWIG 7709 adjustable rear sway bar. It's not necessary. I upgraded to reduce some of that factory body roll.

 

[Bill Cats]

Thanks

Here's the list, just paste them in to google to find a recent vendor:

Bilstein 5100 set at 2.8 / TCG 1.5 rear spacers. These settings will retain a 1" rake vs. the 3" factory rake.

I run Mevotech upper control arms, but if you don't take yours off-road you can keep your stuck ones.

Stock size FALKEN Wildpeak AT3's

and HELLWIG 7709 adjustable rear sway bar. It's not necessary. I upgraded to reduce some of that factory body roll.

MUCH appreciated !!

 

[Alweeja]

IMO I Would never buy a fleet vehicle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Me either....Way too much Abuse

 

[Bill Cats]

well - they have :
1- excellent maintenance and records -
2 - gps to catch high speeds -
But I hear u

 

[kurek]

Fleet vehicles are susceptible to extremes, some people get in a fleet vehicle and their attitude is that it ain't theirs so they are practically obligated to drive the mcnuggets out of it 100% of the time. Others don't. Either way they do tend to get pragmatic maintenance if they're state owned. Not so much if they're private business owned.

Anyway deed's done so from here out it's just continued maintenance at the prerogative of the new owner.

 

[Bill Cats]

Fleet vehicles are susceptible to extremes, some people get in a fleet vehicle and their attitude is that it ain't theirs so they are practically obligated to drive the mcnuggets out of it 100% of the time. Others don't. Either way they do tend to get pragmatic maintenance if they're state owned. Not so much if they're private business owned.

Anyway deed's done so from here out it's just continued maintenance at the prerogative of the new owner.

Agreed,,, well I own it now )))
On to more confusing things like .. I want to change trans fluid and filter,,
I located this on eBay,,.
What are ur thoughts

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/401925006583

 

[huntergreen]

Congrats on your new ram. Can't comment on the pan, but if you haven't already. Check on YouTube for how to service our trans. It's a unique process.