Travel Trailer Towing

[Eclipse Aries]

I find the first limiting factor when towing with a half ton is payload. Remember, everything you put in the truck eats into that number. Your weight, wife's weight, dog weight, any personal items and tools in the bed.... What ever is left after that is all you have for tongue weight. My family of 3 and a 4500# TT gets within a couple hundred lbs of the max pay load. WDH with sway control is a must. If you can spare the time, load up like you're planning to travel and hit the CAT scale. The numbers will probably surprise you.
Good Luck, safe travels.

 

[Tunaman]

You will be fine, I do recommend a load leveler hitch, makes all the difference in the world. Mileage? To be honest....it will suck, just like any other tow vehicle. That’s why you see MO.sTpeople driving 60 mphontge interstate in 70 mph zones to save 1.5 mpg.

 

[Joe Merchak]

Just remember pulling TT You have the head wind factor
Pulling through the air , not like a lowboy Trailer.

This is so true, going west I average around 10-11 mpg, going east I get over 12mpg. I never go more then 60mph because my TT has 14" tires and they are not design for high speed even though I put goodyear endurance on the TT.

 

[Goal10der]

I have a 31 foot T.T. with an empty weight of about 4800 lbs, and a max of 7000. Since I never use the freshwater tanks and empty the grey/black tanks, even with regular and essentials sundries - towels, clothes, etc, I doubt it's gone much over 5400 lbs towing weight. The truck is a 2019 with a 3.92 rear end, and the 5.7 eTorque, (there are no modifications to the suspension) and the towing package. I've had no issues towing the trailer; the truck pulls it with no problem (other than the mileage dropping to 10 or 11 m.p.g.). Understandably, I live in Florida, so my towing has been on relatively flat terrain, with a couple of trips to Southern Georgia which doesn't have much in the way of high elevations either.

I would definitely recommend a weight distribution hitch and the anti-sway control, they're both short money in the overall picture of cost of the truck and trailer. Well worth it to keep the truck on an even keel and the trailer from doing lane-dancing in crosswinds. Trailer have high C.O.G. to begin with: the newer "light" and "ultra-light" models have much less weight for their length than older ones do

I agree with others: remember most TT tires are rated for 65 miles an hour. I've seen people go flying down the road with TT like Speed Racer and seen more than a couple in the breakdown lane with a blown trailer tire (or two) and parts of the trailer spread out on the surrounding roadway from when the tires blew out and took chunks out of the trailer with it. Especially here in Florida with the summer sun and heat turning the roadways into frying pans.

 

[runamuck]

most new travel trailer tires are available in speed ratings of 81 mph on up..on my trailer, the 14" carlisles I have are rated for 81 but I would never want to pull my trailer that fast..usually set cruise for 68-70. fast enough for me.

 

[silver surfer]

2015 1500 Express with 3.21. Finally hit the scales with my 27.5' Sunline. Just over 3400 on front axle. Just over 4000 on the rear. 5500 trailer axle weight (couldn't get separate axle weights). Have to weigh truck alone next time, and lighten the bed load a little, I think. Tows well with a Reese Dual Cam WDH. 11-12 mpg average.

 

[392DevilDog]

2015 1500 Express with 3.21. Finally hit the scales with my 27.5' Sunline. Just over 3400 on front axle. Just over 4000 on the rear. 5500 trailer axle weight (couldn't get separate axle weights). Have to weigh truck alone next time, and lighten the bed load a little, I think. Tows well with a Reese Dual Cam WDH. 11-12 mpg average.

You are 100+ lbs over rear axle rating. You should try to adjust your WDH to get some more back to the front and then you will have a perfect setup as is.

Or move some weight. But I would adjust those bars.

 

[Elkman]

Towing with any gas engine powered vehicle will dramatically reduce its fuel economy as the engine will spend more time outside its peak power and torque band. A gas engine will peak at over 3000 rpm as compared to the diesel that peaks at around 1700 rpm.

What has mattered to me was range on a tank of fuel as I could go 30% further between fuel stops with a diesel V-8 engine.

A side benefit with some diesel engines is a well integrated exhaust brake to limit speed on steep downgrades.

I remember when a 3/4 ton truck was needed for trailer towing but current 1/2 ton trucks far exceed the 3/4 ton trucks of a few decades ago. Where people go wrong is in getting too tall a set of gears. For towing I have always wanted 4.10 gears with a gas powered truck.

Don't overlook the GCWR for the tow vehicle as that is how much total weight of the truck and its passenger and payloads and the total weight of the trailer with its load that the engine and drivetrain and frame and brakes are engineered to handle safely and reliably.

Truck weight capacity is also reduced by 150 lbs per passenger which is why the great difference in ratings between regular cab and otherwise identical crew cab trucks.

 

[Firebird]

On my 4th travel trailer and can tell you with confidence that a 7K dry weight trailer will be pushing 8500 towing with at least 1000lb tounge weight........always go by the trailers GVWR and 12 - 15 % of that for tounge.

Perfect Example for ya'.
Our current trailer has a listed 6120 dry weight and a 7740 GVWR, scale weight is 7439 and no extravagant loading of junk in trailer, it's just me and the wife.

That 1500 will yank that weight around easily but the heavy tounge eats up the payload quickly.

Your getting very close to 2500 truck territory.

This^^^^^^
I always prefer towing with a heavy duty, it’s just much safer to me.

 

[Joe Merchak]

This^^^^^^
I always prefer towing with a heavy duty, it’s just much safer to me.

I wish I could, I got my express for 36K out the door. When it come to 2500 there is no deals and your looking at 50K plus. Used ones are hard to find that are not trashed. My wife and I talked about it, by the time we get s 2500 with the same features that came on my express we close to 60K. At that rate why we just dont buy a class c. Forget one now on the east cost, due to covid there is no inventory and dealers and not give breaks on them. Hard decisions.....

 

[Firebird]

I wish I could, I got my express for 36K out the door. When it come to 2500 there is no deals and your looking at 50K plus. Used ones are hard to find that are not trashed. My wife and I talked about it, by the time we get s 2500 with the same features that came on my express we close to 60K. At that rate why we just dont buy a class c. Forget one now on the east cost, due to covid there is no inventory and dealers and not give breaks on them. Hard decisions.....

I completely understand. We have owned both C class and A Class motorhomes, and although they are nice, I didn't want to buy another vehicle just to have a toad. I will be able to use my truck for both work and towing, and having towed with half tons in the past (my 04 Hemi) I just didn't want to revisit that.

 

[NH RAM]

I wish I could, I got my express for 36K out the door. When it come to 2500 there is no deals and your looking at 50K plus. Used ones are hard to find that are not trashed. My wife and I talked about it, by the time we get s 2500 with the same features that came on my express we close to 60K. At that rate why we just dont buy a class c. Forget one now on the east cost, due to covid there is no inventory and dealers and not give breaks on them. Hard decisions.....

I got out of my 1500 in January and into a 2500. I went from a Big Horn to a Tradesman- it didn't have the 8" screen and some other niceties that I liked in my 1500, but inventory was scarce and I could only find Big Horns in Meg Cab with prices of $57,000. I'm in my Tradesman, including my significant upside down from my 1500 at about $45k; I at least got some better Tradesman options like dual alternators, snow chief, bed utility, upfitter switches, stainless steps, remote start, trailer brake, and a couple other things. You can get into a new Cummins 2500 for a bit over $52k around me and a hemi Big Horn for 48k. They go quick though.

I talked to a guy recently that had a motor home and he hated driving it because it was always a battle with wind and very tiring to drive. He opted for a fifth wheel and a duramax that was a year or two old. He doesn't have to worry about the toad and said the driving experience is vastly better while towing the 5W. Just thought I'd share as we were contemplating a 5W and getting rid of our TT- he highly recommended it and towed from NV to SD and does quite a few road trips.

 

[Joe Merchak]

I completely understand. We have owned both C class and A Class motorhomes, and although they are nice, I didn't want to buy another vehicle just to have a toad. I will be able to use my truck for both work and towing, and having towed with half tons in the past (my 04 Hemi) I just didn't want to revisit that.

I dont have to worry about buying a toad as I got one already. My truck is primarily used for the TT as its to costly to drive to work everyday.

 

[Eric Troup]

The primary limiting factor is GVWR not payload. Payload is a theoretical number based on the truck as it left the factory. Add a few options, people, cargo etc and the payload number is no longer accurate. Hitch weight puts you over.

A 2020 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel has a GVWR of 7200lbs. The front GAWR is 3900lbs and the rear GAWR is 4100lbs.

Notice that that if you actually reach the GAWR on both axles you exceed GVWR by 1000lbs.

You can use a Weight Distribution Hitch to reduce weight on the rear axle and shift it forward. You should not exceed either GAWR or GVWR. You will likely exceed one or the other before you exceed the towing weight limit or CVWR.

 

[Joe Merchak]

So up till yesterday I was pulling a 2019 Spirit 2758RB @6100lb empty and a factory tongue weight of 765lb. Yesterday I bought a 2020 Premier 19FB. After 2 years of owning the Spirit and towing it 1600 miles I did not realise how hard it was on the truck until I towed the new one yesterday. Even with a WDH pulling the 31 foot Spirit around big rigs was always nerve racking because the whole thing wanted to be pulled into the big rig. Going up hills the engine really revved high and doing anything over 60 did not feel secure. This new one at 25' and 4500lb empty was a pleasure to pull. The truck barely noticed it, I was doing 68 and did not even notice it, and the engine was more in normal rpm range. Plus the whole balance of the truck felt like the trailer was not there. That higher tongue weight so far back definitely makes a difference and if I was to pull a trailer of that size and weight again I would definitely go with a 2500. The 1500 is to light to be doing that work.

 

[runamuck]

I traded my '17 gmc sierra slt for the ram 1500 I have now when the new style first came out because our 6000# trailer was too much for the gmc. it had the 5.3 and 3.42 gears and 6 spd and just worked too hard towing the trailer. this ram does a much better job. on most highways I can set cruise at 68-70 and it just hums along at about 2100 rpm's. If I dont set cruise I sometimes find my self running with the flow. the large brakes on the truck and the 4 wheel brakes on the trailer do a great job of stopping. and when not towing the truck is fun to drive.. the only knock I have on the truck is the puny cargo limit. I dont carry much in the truck bed when towing and I air up the back tires a little more. have been thinking of going to 2500 but they are pretty pricey right now.

 

[ramffml]

The primary limiting factor is GVWR not payload. Payload is a theoretical number based on the truck as it left the factory. Add a few options, people, cargo etc and the payload number is no longer accurate.

I feel this is incorrect. Every truck has a max weight (GVWR) it can have, and every truck has an actual curb weight (what does it weight RIGHT NOW as speced out with the features you have, a full tank of gas etc). Payload is the difference between the two, it is a very real number, nothing theoretical.

So yes, GVWR is the limiting factor (how much can my truck weigh with everything including cargo), but payload is the "same idea" but approached from a different angle (how much room do I have left to put in my truck before GVWR is reached).

So the payload is very accurate, as it is derived from GVWR - curb weight. The more cargo/weight you add, the less payload you have left.

 

[wobly]

Thanks everyone. We are looking at a number of bunkhouse travel trailers that will allow us to have room and have room for our three dogs when camping (they get the bunkhouse). Primary candidate is the
Cougar Half-Ton 29BHS. Dry weight 7008 lbs, hitch weight 765 lbs. Perfect layout for us and most important the wife loves it.

We have a 2019 Cougar 29BHS that I pull with my 2015 RAM 1500. The VIN tool says I can pull 10,800. We have a Blue Ox WDH and airbags in the rear springs. It pulls the trailer around the mountains of Colorado pretty well. I will admit that this is our third trailer, and they all get heavier. The next truck we get will probably be a 3/4 ton. The trailer is great, but I changed out the tires from the OEM Chinese tires to Goodyear Endurance about 2 months after purchasing it. Great peace of mind!

 

[rzims]

We tow an ePro 19FD which is a smaller, light weight trailer. With the Husky WDH on there the trailer pulls really nicely and power wise, the truck doesn't even know it's back there.
I do want to switch out the stock tires on the trailer with something decent, but haven't had the budget to do that yet. Last weekend we were towing through the central valley and it was 104 and the thought of overheating and blowing a tire at highway speeds was never far from my thoughts.

 

[rule18]

The primary limiting factor is GVWR not payload. Payload is a theoretical number based on the truck as it left the factory. Add a few options, people, cargo etc and the payload number is no longer accurate. Hitch weight puts you over.

Payload is theoretical until you put your VIN into the "Look Up My Vehicle link here: https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing-guide.html . That's the real max payload for YOUR vehicle, trim level, factory options and so forth. It matters, along with all the other weight ratings as you've described.