Uh ohh.... a few hard shifts. Trans on the way out?

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NJ4X4

NJ4X4

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I don't know good point. It would likely be caught in media, if even the paint will come off, we aren't sure it will. Now, we see oil filters that are inside transmissions with paint on them, even for mopar. This is newer info for us, at that time we hadnt seen this. We just recomended that for an abundance of caution. Even if paint filled media it would go to bypass, so it likely wouldnt be fatal. Did @U&A cut open trans filter, he was the first to change his trans filter with our new procedures. If so Kyle, was there any paint in media?

I guess I should be the one to risk it first, when I do my trans flush I will leave paint on the rp filter, live on the edge. My guess, there is nothing in transmission oil that will eat my paint.
Thanks. I wouldn't think the new fluid would remove the paint either. But, I'm just guessing. Now I'm a little leary of using this filter.
 

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Follow your gut, I will update filter thread with info.
 

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Thanks. I wouldn't think the new fluid would remove the paint either. But, I'm just guessing. Now I'm a little leary of using this filter.
Actually, took me a minute but consider this, engine oil is way more acidic then transmission oil, so if that filter sits in used hot engine oil for an oci, no way could it be an issue for transmission filter? So finding the paint inside the filter is great info, no need to knock off paint? I have cut open untold number of RP filters even after two years on engines, no sign of paint in media.

In a perfect world we would have stainless filters with spun microglass filtration for transmission, but since nobody seams to want to provide this we have to make due. Funny, I'd gladly pay up to 50 bucks for such a filter, lmao? It is so important, the interval is so long, it would be worth every penny of 50 dollars, but we cant get that at any price. Makes you want to break into the filter making business when you see how much better these things can be. Hey partner, great info thanks for that great discussion this very AM>
 
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Actually, took me a minute but consider this, engine oil is way more acidic then transmission oil, so if that filter sits in used hot engine oil for an oci, no way could it be an issue for transmission filter? So finding the paint inside the filter is great info, no need to knock off paint? I have cut open untold number of RP filters even after two years on engines, no sign of paint in media.

In a perfect world we would have stainless filters with spun microglass filtration for transmission, but since nobody seams to want to provide this we have to make due. Funny, I'd gladly pay up to 50 bucks for such a filter, lmao? It is so important, the interval is so long, it would be worth every penny of 50 dollars, but we cant get that at any price. Makes you want to break into the filter making business when you see how much better these things can be. Hey partner, great info thanks for that great discussion this very AM>
Good point....apparently the paint withstands engine oil.
 
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Actually, took me a minute but consider this, engine oil is way more acidic then transmission oil, so if that filter sits in used hot engine oil for an oci, no way could it be an issue for transmission filter? So finding the paint inside the filter is great info, no need to knock off paint? I have cut open untold number of RP filters even after two years on engines, no sign of paint in media.

In a perfect world we would have stainless filters with spun microglass filtration for transmission, but since nobody seams to want to provide this we have to make due. Funny, I'd gladly pay up to 50 bucks for such a filter, lmao? It is so important, the interval is so long, it would be worth every penny of 50 dollars, but we cant get that at any price. Makes you want to break into the filter making business when you see how much better these things can be. Hey partner, great info thanks for that great discussion this very AM>
It may not be painted inside after all.... Just watched a couple videos showing the internals and it appears to have a purple anti-siphon silicone valve which would keep oil in the filter after the engine is turned off. Here's one of the videos: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...17ED82D1C7C651EF6C0D17ED82D1C7C6&&FORM=VDRVRV
 

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It may not be painted inside after all.... Just watched a couple videos showing the internals and it appears to have a purple anti-siphon silicone valve which would keep oil in the filter after the engine is turned off. Here's one of the videos: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=royal+purple+filters+painted+on+the+inside&ru=/videos/search?q=royal%20purple%20filters%20painted%20on%20the%20inside&&FORM=VDVVXX&view=detail&mid=51EF6C0D17ED82D1C7C651EF6C0D17ED82D1C7C6&&FORM=VDRVRV
my last oci, I was testing magnets, you see how little they matter with this filter, but as you see no paint, dang. I cant believe I forgot with as many times I cut them open.

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Well, it hasn't been a lot of miles yet.....but so far, no hard shifts after the redline and filter changes. I wish I had knew for sure what my trans temp was before the fluid change. Today, after 40 mins of driving (no highway) varying between stopping at lights and doing 55mph, my trans temp stayed between 127 and 129 degrees. The temperature here in NJ was 55 degrees. The trans temp seems low, but like I said I'm not 100% certain where it used to be. I'll see if it increases with highway driving.
 
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UPDATE on my trans hard shifts.... Since swapping the fluid for Redline C+, changing to a Royal Purple filter, adding shudder guard and replacing the OEM sump filter... NOT A SINGLE HARD SHIFT after 2 weeks of daily driving. Fingers crossed, but it seems to have made a HUGE difference.
 

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UPDATE on my trans hard shifts.... Since swapping the fluid for Redline C+, changing to a Royal Purple filter, adding shudder guard and replacing the OEM sump filter... NOT A SINGLE HARD SHIFT after 2 weeks of daily driving. Fingers crossed, but it seems to have made a HUGE difference.
right on, there are some situations where the true high performance formulas really work. To be honest this forum has taught me this, back in the day I was more like the BITOgers who say everything that happens here is impossible and has no credulity. And yet time and time again we get experiences that prove the oil guys at BITOG know absolutely nothing about oil. Looking forward to hearing long term results, check the fluid level again warm and idling, just verify level is still good. And what temp does the evic show on a long trip say 1/2 hour or better?

You took a chance and followed my first post, kudos for you for taking a shot. Now reap the rewards.

On my first post I posted two videos on your transmission, those are must watches for guys with the rfe, I encourage you to watch them.
 

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I believe you have to be in neutral for the fluid to rotate in the rfe, so when trans is warm, put in N and check the fluid.
 
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right on, there are some situations where the true high performance formulas really work. To be honest this forum has taught me this, back in the day I was more like the BITOgers who say everything that happens here is impossible and has no credulity. And yet time and time again we get experiences that prove the oil guys at BITOG know absolutely nothing about oil. Looking forward to hearing long term results, check the fluid level again warm and idling, just verify level is still good. And what temp does the evic show on a long trip say 1/2 hour or better?

You took a chance and followed my first post, kudos for you for taking a shot. Now reap the rewards.

On my first post I posted two videos on your transmission, those are must watches for guys with the rfe, I encourage you to watch them.
I'm so glad I followed your post. And, I'll be sure to keep checking the fluid level.

I never kept a close eye on my trans temp, but I think t used to be at 160 - 170. Now, I watch it closely and on a 50 degree day driving in stop and go traffic for at least 40 mins...it hovers right around 130.

I'll keep you posted for the longer term results! THNX !
 
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