Wideband AFR Gauge Install

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Is there any local dyno shops near you to put a sniffer in the exhaust and let you drive it alill on the dyno and see if its going bat **** crazy also?

 

[redram2007]

Idk I'm gonna have to look into that.

 

[redram2007]

I found a dyno shop that is willing to check my AFR (like you mentioned, thank you) for $70 and he said he could use my DS intune to do a real time dyno tune for $350. He also recommended the AEM wideband AFR gauge. All things considered what should i do? Pay the $350 and get it dyno tuned or pay the $70 first and then dyno tune if i decide to.

http://www.revolutionsperformance.com/dodge.php

 

[redram2007]

Talked to Auto Meter tech support again and finally got some info from a different guy. He said i need a 12v source that only has 12v when the engine is running and if it has voltage during start up it will cause the gauge to malfunction. He said i need to relocate my ground from the metal dash ground to the engine block. Anyone know of any 12v sources that only come on with the enging running and not with the key in acc or run?

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Talked to Auto Meter tech support again and finally got some info from a different guy. He said i need a 12v source that only has 12v when the engine is running and if it has voltage during start up it will cause the gauge to malfunction. He said i need to relocate my ground from the metal dash ground to the engine block. Anyone know of any 12v sources that only come on with the enging running and not with the key in acc or run?

Thats odd my AEM could be triggered from any 12v source with key in any pos (mine is in my radio power). Did they have a prefferance on where for you to hook because the last sentance seems odd. Source only when its running but not with the key cycled to on or run.

 

[redram2007]

What he said was when the starter is engaging (start position) it can't have 12v bc the starter will cause RF interference. But it can have power on acc just not when you crank the engine. He told me to have someone start it and check for power while the starter is engaging and if it has voltage then search for a power source elsewhere that doesn't have power during starter engagement.

 

[redram2007]

I found a dyno shop that is willing to check my AFR (like you mentioned, thank you) for $70 and he said he could use my DS intune to do a real time dyno tune for $350. He also recommended the AEM wideband AFR gauge. All things considered what should i do? Pay the $350 and get it dyno tuned or pay the $70 first and then dyno tune if i decide to.

Revolutions Performance | Dodge

Does this seem too much for a dyno tune and will they load a tune in my intune? Never had any experience with a dyno test/tune and i just want to make sure its worth the money to get done.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

That is about the going average. Ask if the $350 is the tuner sitting in it and making as many adjustments as needed or just covers 3 pulls and 3 cracks at getting the most out of it. Some can be done fairly quick, others need a bunch to fine tune it all the way. Also ask if the Dyno tune is gonna cover part throttle and daily driving habits. Some only do a "race" tune and the stop and go tune suffers.

 

[redram2007]

He didn't specify if it was for a daily driver tune or a race tune. But he did say it will take about 2 hrs sometimes 3 and if it goes over 2 then its 100 per hr after that. He said he has done a lot of Dodge vehicles and usually gets it done in 2 hrs.

Do you think i will notice a difference from a CMR tune vs dyno tune?

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Possibly if there is some left on the table. Im not sure what all PIDs Sean has you checking and how close to the limit he is pushing your truck. A dyno when hooked up and ran right will tell you excatly where you are and what can be tweaked. My truck took about 2 hrs on the rollers and 7 pulls to get the best number, a total of 12 were made and 1 full pull from stop till WAY past what my tires are rated for way made.

 

[redram2007]

Ok so talked to him again and he said for 70 bucks he would do a 3 run dyno to see where everything is at but no adjustments. When it comes time for tuning he said his tuner will fine tune it on the dyno for 350 for my driving habits and i will take it for a drive come back let him know how it did and make small adjustments. After that if i add heads and cams its 200 per hr to make adjustments.

 

[redram2007]

And by the way thanks for all you help and knowledge.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

No prob buddy, sorry I couldnt do more but dang its a weird situation. My tuner did a ride along with me after we took it off the dyno and did various driving while he was hooked up keeping an eye on stuff. It helped that he is a night owl and we were doing the street testing after 10pm. For the $70 you will know where you stand and if you want to see if there is more in it you know what to set aside for. They should be able to clamp the sniffer on your dump pipe if you want to run through the headers and just cats or run the full exhuast.

 

[redram2007]

The only thing about running it on my cutout is i seem to have a little less power from a stop until about 2500 rpm. Not sure if that matters on a dyno or not.

 

[redram2007]

So i have troubleshot the hell out of this wideband gauge reading and it has to be wiring bc of the sensitive TIPM. Autometer sent me a new sensor, so i disconnected the sensor from the harness and left the old sensor in. Conected the new sensor and let it hang, started the truck and it read 17.0. I went inside and turn my Hellas on (which are run off a relay and triggered by a switch connected to the cig lighter) and it dropped to 14.5 just handing there in the fresh air. So i didnt swap the sensors out yet bc it has to be wiring. Also if i open my e-cutout it will also drop my readings, I have the e-cutout getting its acc power from the heated seat plug, and my afr gauge soldered to my adjustable pedals plug both options i dont have. I tested both for power with the key off and on and both read around 14v when running and 0v when off. My ground is now connected to the engine block.

After reading the schematics all if not most of the power is coming from the TIPM. So i dont know if i am overloading the TIPM or just too much connected to the same circuit. Everything aftermarket is ran with a relay, in-line fuse, and or switch. I guess my last and only option is to run my AFR 12v wire straight to the battery with a relay and switch.

Any suggestions???

 

[truckin151]

the e cut out makes sense with it dropping, the guy that dyno tuned mine said the cut out would make it run a little richer. Have you tried setting the truck back to stock and running it and seeing what the afr is without the tune?

 

[redram2007]

Sure have man. Its the same either way. It doesn't always drop when the cutout is open. Mainly when I hit the switch on the Hellas or upon closing the cutout it sometimes drops when it closes all the way or open all the way. I think it's electrical honestly.

 

[redram2007]

Here is a short video of whats going on. When you see it drop im switching my hella fog lights on and off (they are not wired to the same power source). Sometimes when i start it up it stays at 17.0 and does not move but other times it will bounce between 15.1-17.0. But no matter the driving conditions or changing my 12v source it always stays between 15 and 17 unless i turn my fogs on it drops down to 12-13 and fluctuates and stays there untill i restart the truck then its back to 15-17 constant or 17 locked. Im lost ive done everything tech support said, got a new sensors, switched grounds and power, and even did a fresh air test and it stayed at 17 which is normal bc its pure air. What should i do?

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[redram2007]

A little update, I removed the autometer afr gauge and installed an aem wideband and it works like a charm. Before swapping them I changed the sensor and that didn't help so it was either the harness or the gauge itself. Now its time to get this thing dialed in after I get my gears installed Friday.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

That sucks on how much messing with it to find out it was faulty. Gonna be cool to see what numbers you put up.