Wont recognize key. Truck won’t start

[AFMoulton]

This is the kind of **** that I'm scared of happening when I'm towing the camper in the middle of nowhere[emoji30]

That’s when it would break for me too.....I’m never lucky enough to have **** fail at home.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Arsenal 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

66RFE/68RFE Thermo Bypass Valve Install


2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Redline 5W-30 RP 10-48
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[hoe...]

Plug a battery charger/tender in and try starting it.
If battery voltage is too low it won't recognise the key

Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk

 

[512RAM]

2032 battery for your FOB would be my guess. Been there, done that.

 

[U&A]

2032 battery for your FOB would be my guess. Been there, done that.

My truck does not have a key FOB.

Just a standard key. See picture above


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

Here’s my next theory. This all goes back to a power problem. Reason I’m thinking that is because when I put the key in the ignition I still cannot pull it out of park into neutral to try to start it.

So something is not right with the power supply. I’ve already gone through the fuses but I think need checked and they all look good.


I guess that takes it down to the battery unless I have some wiring issues


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Jrod]

This is the kind of **** that I'm scared of happening when I'm towing the camper in the middle of nowhere[emoji30]

Yep! Like in the Virginia mountains, and all of a sudden I hear a banjo playing!

 

[U&A]

Update. I made it out alive from my first Uber experience and picked up a new battery and a new light tester.

New battery did not fix the problem going to check all the fuses in the box under the hood.

After talking with some people that are more educated than I we’ve pretty much narrowed it down to that stupid ignition switch that reads the key.

They also don’t make mine anymore as my truck stakes that standard key. It has been updated to a pushbutton now[emoji35][emoji35][emoji35]. I don’t me that but the push button start ignition cannot be had for a couple weeks. Even places online that say they have it I called and they said they cannot get it anymore. Found one for sale on eBay and it says the seller will not be back until December 9th.

No Junkyards in the area have what I need.

I’m sure I’m missing some new information i could share ...but I need to get back to it


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Propman]

My brand new 2019 Ram Classic Tradesman has the key start - so they’re still making them. My brand new key looks exactly like yours.

 

[turkeybird56]

I’m thinking for some reason the truck is not liking the key this morning. Most of the time it does not even acknowledge the key is being put in. Just yesterday were looking at the information on the display in the truck it said I was running at my normal voltage.

What is going on?

I have the battery currently disconnected and I’m going to wait for about 30 minutes and try again. If this is an issue with the truck recognizing the key from what I understand this might solve the problem at least for this morning.

Any ideas? Guess I might not make it to work today.



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Switch $80.00 Try these folks, see URL.

https://www.moparpartscorp.com/oem-...wJnk9MjAxNiZ0PXRyYWRlc21hbiZlPTYtNGwtdjgtZ2Fz

 

[U&A]

Switch $80.00 Try these folks, see URL.

https://www.moparpartscorp.com/oem-...wJnk9MjAxNiZ0PXRyYWRlc21hbiZlPTYtNGwtdjgtZ2Fz

Just ordered that exact ******* thing from them[emoji23]. It will be here Saturday. If it works I’m buying another, putting it in a Ziploc bag and sticking it on the shelf


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

My brand new 2019 Ram Classic Tradesman has the key start - so they’re still making them. My brand new key looks exactly like yours.

Strange why they would tell me they cant get that part anymore. Maybe the dealer is referring to my particular part number. It had maybe been replaced with the same part but new number....? You know how FCA likes changing things about once a week.

All i know is the “replacement number” the dealer keeps giving me is a push button start. And my part number is not used anymore.





Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[turkeybird56]

Just ordered that exact ******* thing from them[emoji23]. It will be here Saturday. If it works I’m buying another, putting it in a Ziploc bag and sticking it on the shelf


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

OK, well Good Luck. WAS all I could find while searching to help U if possible....

 

[U&A]

**** me it continues.

I called the locksmith to see when he could come out and possibly marry the key to the ignition. He said he can only do it if the ignition comes with pin number. If not I have to go to the dealer.

[emoji35][emoji35]

After talking to him I called Moparparts.com to see if it came with a number and they said no it does not they could not get me one I have to go to the dealer and they also told me the part is actually on back order until sometime in December.

[emoji35][emoji35][emoji35]

Called the dealer. They would not give me a number over the phone to give to the locksmith I would have to tow my truck in. FCA change the rules on giving out pin numbers for keys or PCM‘s and they can only have seven of them per day my dealer it all depends on the size of the deal.[emoji35][emoji35][emoji35]. Again they say they cannot get the part until sometime in December.

So I returned the part for now. I can order it again later if necessary.

Call the locksmith back and he is going to come out and see if he can re-Mary the ignition to my keys.

Probably going to be a waste of money but for 85$ i can get an answer TOMORROW. If it doesn’t work then 100% sure it is the ignition which that I cannot get for a couple weeks at least.[emoji35][emoji35][emoji35][emoji35][emoji35]







Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Jimmy07]

Couple things, as I answered a post by @Hemi395 earlier in the alfa thread, and realized he *might have been* asking in reference to this. The ignition switch is not a WIN module anymore in a 2016. Those were used on pre-2013s, and handled the verification of the key fob. All it is now is a switch and transmitter, and the RF Hub on the back wall now handles the key fob verification. It appears the ignition switch is transmitting fine, because the rf hub recognizes there’s a key in the ignition, but the rf hub is rejecting it for some reason. I *doubt* a new switch will fix it, but since it’s ordered, might as well try it. I think the rf hub might just need to be reset, or there’s some issue with it. Do you happen to have AlfaOBD?

Not sure how the dealer could even botch the part being discontinued. They are all the same FCC ID number (maybe different part numbers through the years) from 2013-2019 classic, but they would all work. It’s also the same switch whether it’s the plastic fob or the metal key.

 

[U&A]

Couple things, as I answered a post by @Hemi395 earlier in the alfa thread, and realized he *might have been* asking in reference to this. The ignition switch is not a WIN module anymore in a 2016. Those were used on pre-2013s, and handled the verification of the key fob. All it is now is a switch and transmitter, and the RF Hub on the back wall now handles the key fob verification. It appears the ignition switch is transmitting fine, because the rf hub recognizes there’s a key in the ignition, but the rf hub is rejecting it for some reason. I *doubt* a new switch will fix it, but since it’s ordered, might as well try it. I think the rf hub might just need to be reset, or there’s some issue with it. Do you happen to have AlfaOBD?

Not sure how the dealer could even botch the part being discontinued. They are all the same FCC ID number (maybe different part numbers through the years) from 2013-2019 classic, but they would all work. It’s also the same switch whether it’s the plastic fob or the metal key.

I dont know what the RF hub is or were it is. But i want to learn. This something a locksmith can reset just like they do the WIN ignitions?

How much $$ is alfaOBD ?


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Jimmy07]

I dont know what the RF hub is or were it is. But i want to learn. This something a locksmith can reset just like they do the WIN ignitions?

How much $$ is alfaOBD ?


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Yes, a locksmith can reset it, but he’s gotta have that PIN number. Here’s a link about AlfaOBD- https://www.ramforum.com/threads/alfaobd.123982/
Don’t worry about the size of the thread, as everything you need to know is in the first post. It costs about $120 total for the app and the recommended OBD Bluetooth interface. You can reset the hub yourself with it, program fobs, but no matter what you need the PIN from the parts guy. It can also read faults in all modules.
The RF Hub is on the wall behind the back seat towards the driver side, but you won’t need to access it unless it needs replaced.

 

[Hemi395]

Isn't there a pin puller app too??

 

[Jimmy07]

Isn't there a pin puller app too??

Yes. It costs $15 to pull it, so if the dealer is gonna charge more than that, go this route.

 

[Jimmy07]

Isn't there a pin puller app too??

Yes. It costs $15 to pull it, so if the dealer is gonna charge more than that, go this route.

Just remembered something- the pin puller app wouldn’t work in this case. It needs the ignition to be in run to pull it, which (ironically in this case) is to prevent someone without a working fob to get your PIN number.

 

[Hemi395]

Just remembered something- the pin puller app wouldn’t work in this case. It needs the ignition to be in run to pull it, which (ironically in this case) is to prevent someone without a working fob to get your PIN number.

That's just perfect[emoji17]