RL 5w-30 switch

[SYKRAMMAN]

I switched over to rl 5/30 with a rp filter at 112xxx, had a mild chatter when letting off the skinny pedal in mid warm up but that went away after 1k miles. All is good and quiet now.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

this makes me feel a little better. i bought my truck 2 weeks ago. she is at 68k and i want to make the switch to RL 5w30. im a little concerned this may cause issues switching.

Doubtful, if I had known how smoothly it would run, I would have switched day one. I am very impressed with the performance. I drive 600 miles a week. The extended oci are great as well. I changing at 7500 miles vs 5000 with RP.

My 16 was PUP till 30k, now it's RL 5W30, with RP filter. My daughter's RT Durango is next to get the RL treatment.

 

[jjyergler]

So, I'm reading this, and I'm confused. I thought the "Hemi tick" was from broken exhaust manifold bolts. Is this tick different? If so, what causes this one and what's the deal with Redline? Is it some special ingredient or addative? Finally, I see some use 5W30 and others use 5W20; do some Hemis require heavier oil or is that personal choice and does the heavier oil provide any advantage?

Thanks.

 

[Burla]

So, I'm reading this, and I'm confused. I thought the "Hemi tick" was from broken exhaust manifold bolts. Is this tick different? If so, what causes this one and what's the deal with Redline? Is it some special ingredient or addative? Finally, I see some use 5W30 and others use 5W20; do some Hemis require heavier oil or is that personal choice and does the heavier oil provide any advantage?

Thanks.

About 50/50 half are bolts and half are lifters.

Redline is esters which are dense and withstand heat and are polar by nature meaning the seek metal instead of run from it like regular hot oil, pao which is stable branched chain lubrication, high moly which cuts the coefficient of friction in half and creates a plate under high heat time and pressure, and has high zinc which is another thing that protects metal.

5w20 versus 5w30 is preference, I have had equal luck with both, but some others have not, they have had better luck with 5w30, which is why we call it hemi honey around here, that specific weight.

Long term use of redline has produced great low wear numbers as well proven by uoa's.

So hears the thing, many hemi's have had issues with cam and lifters and long term members seen this over and over and have followed science into this solution. But, if you don't have hemi tick you can simply move from your favorite 5w20 oil up to 5w30 and that will give you some extra protection. You can develop your own strategy by researching it, you may not opt for redline. As for me, this hemi will only get redline 5w30 and I had so much luck with it I can't imagine using anything else even if I switch cars. Until I seen it kill over 20 hemi ticks including my own, I wouldn't have believed it. Seams like every other week another postive story comes up. It surely isn't 100% at killing ticks, but pretty close. There is a slight risk if the engine has over 75k miles of noise getting worse before better.

You may want to read my oil filter thread in my sig, really good unbiased info there. You can also read the quiet hemi tick thread posted by h395.

let me ask you, do you have hemi tick?

 

[jjyergler]

Wow...an internet comment that was well written, to the point, and filled with useful information. I've seen it all.

Thanks, that completely answers my question and makes total sense.

No, I don't have the tick, but, at my next oil change (at 60k) I'm certainly going with Redline.

 

[16RamHemi]

Wow...an internet comment that was well written, to the point, and filled with useful information. I've seen it all.

the more you frequent this forum, especially the oil and filter threads the more you will see great members like burla etc are invaluable. they speak facts. no bs guys. not gonna steer you wrong.

 

[odinjunior]

Is this 5W30 only for the 5.7?

 

[joshuaeb09]

Is this 5W30 only for the 5.7?

In the 6.4 I would either run 0W40 or 5W40. @U&A has documented his 6.4 in the Syn Oil thread and it likes the 5W40 more from what I've followed. Based on his experience I'm going to move my 6.4 from RL 0W40 to 5W40 next oil change to see if I notice a difference. 5W30 is the most popular on for the 5.7 though I have run 0W40 in mine and currently have it full of Edge0W40 A3/B4 I get cheap. Once I can source RL on the cheap it'll get moved back to RL 5W30.

 

[AzCats]

Thanks Burla ...time for me to order some RL5w-30 and RP filter.

 

[bchap05]

Probably around 5k at the longest. It was my first change. Might have been 3-4k can't remember for sure.

 

[iHemiMan]

At 45K


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[odinjunior]

In the 6.4 I would either run 0W40 or 5W40. @U&A has documented his 6.4 in the Syn Oil thread and it likes the 5W40 more from what I've followed. Based on his experience I'm going to move my 6.4 from RL 0W40 to 5W40 next oil change to see if I notice a difference. 5W30 is the most popular on for the 5.7 though I have run 0W40 in mine and currently have it full of Edge0W40 A3/B4 I get cheap. Once I can source RL on the cheap it'll get moved back to RL 5W30.

Used the PUP 0W40 when I changed the first time, got it on Amazon pretty cheap but haven't seen it since. Around here to get PUP 0W40 I have to special order, no one has it on the shelf.. The truck only has 7K miles on it so no change needed yet.

 

[Burla]

They still got PUP on amazon, if you are using PUP you should store it, buy it up while you can, that is what I do for our other car. I must have 3 or 4 years worth.

 

[joshuaeb09]

Used the PUP 0W40 when I changed the first time, got it on Amazon pretty cheap but haven't seen it since. Around here to get PUP 0W40 I have to special order, no one has it on the shelf.. The truck only has 7K miles on it so no change needed yet.

PUP 0W40 ain't bad stuff and being the SRT/FCA formulation keeps you using an OE approved oil if that's something you worry about for warranty purposes. I was getting mine from Amazon for the 1st 3 changes on my 6.4 (500, 1000, 1500) before I switched to the RL 0W40 around 3500. My biggest gripe with the PUP 0W40 was how fast it will sheer down when you push the motor since my 6.4 is in a Challenger and I would get a slight Hemi tick after a hard day out in the hill country. The RL doesn't have the same problem so I run it between 4 and 6k depending on how hard I've been driving it.

 

[blackbetty14]

4,600 miles, drained factory fill and threw in 5qts of mobile 1 syn 5w30 and 2 qts of mobile 1 syn 10w30. Quiet as a mouse on startup now but had a tick on the factory stuff on cold start if the truck wasn't run for a few days.

 

[Elkman]

Does anyone actually know of anyone who has had an engine bearing or other part fail as a result of the type of motor oil that was being used? I have had lots of engine systems parts fail but never a rod or bearing or timing chain nor do I know of anyone who has experienced this.

I have had transmissions and clutches and wheel bearings and water pumps and head gaskets and alternators and brake master cylinder and power steering pump failures but nothing that was in any way related to the motor oil. If an oil meets the API standard then the rest is immaterial.

 

[joshuaeb09]

Does anyone actually know of anyone who has had an engine bearing or other part fail as a result of the type of motor oil that was being used? I have had lots of engine systems parts fail but never a rod or bearing or timing chain nor do I know of anyone who has experienced this.

I have had transmissions and clutches and wheel bearings and water pumps and head gaskets and alternators and brake master cylinder and power steering pump failures but nothing that was in any way related to the motor oil. If an oil meets the API standard then the rest is immaterial.

I can think of a number of oil related and speculated to be oil related failures. The modular ford v8's would eventually toast the cam phasers and then start taking out the rest of the valve train in part due to the MC 5W20 spec'd oil. Those that ran higher quality 5W30 or 10W30 had notably less failures based on all the data I've seen as well as engine builders upgrading to higher volume oil pumps to help prevent the issue on reman's that were running the light 5W20. The AFM on the 5.3 Chevy's will lead to oil consumption given enough time as well cylinder wear and ring damage. This can be somewhat mitigated again by choice in a better oil that won't flash cook when sprayed onto the AFM pistons which requires a higher quality base stock typically PAO or PAE. In the case of FCA it would be the Hemi's eating lifters and then those failed lifters eating the cam. There is some speculation that oil and idle hours might play a role, however, we don't have enough data to come to a conclusion yet. There's also the EcoD which had it's oil respec'd by FCA after they were eating bearings if I remember correctly.

Saying if it has the API donut it's good enough is not really true for all applications which is why OE's have their own specifications that are licensed. You have your normal dyno bases, hydrotreated bases, hydrocracked bases, GTL Bases, PAO, PAE, and other specialty base stocks. These base stocks have differing characteristics that must be accounted for and some are required in order to meet some OE specs. Additionally different service classes are going to be blended with different properties. Take the new SN plus for example, while some of these oils might be acceptable for something like the Hemi their main goal is to help with things like LSPI in GDI turbos that are becoming common, not protecting the cam shaft in a push rod engine. As far as I'm concerned the API donut just tells me at-least it's a licensed motor oil, but nothing about it's base stock quality or the formulation of it's additive package.

 

[Burla]

Does anyone actually know of anyone who has had an engine bearing or other part fail as a result of the type of motor oil that was being used? I have had lots of engine systems parts fail but never a rod or bearing or timing chain nor do I know of anyone who has experienced this.

I have had transmissions and clutches and wheel bearings and water pumps and head gaskets and alternators and brake master cylinder and power steering pump failures but nothing that was in any way related to the motor oil. If an oil meets the API standard then the rest is immaterial.

Ram eco diesels had so many bearings fail, they changed the weight of the oil spec'd. One could argue they probably have had even more cam fails in the 5.7, but they literally can't change the spec because they took gov't fuel credits and they lied to everyone saying 5w20 was necessary for mds, which we all know it isn't. Many years into this hemi tick cam fail problem FCA did produce or help produce an oil with high moly content. There is no way a corporation would come out and say this oil is why stuff is failing, they would be sued to hell and back. The writing is on the wall though.

 

[New1500ram]

230k and runs better I'm the second owner so not sure what the other guy was using

 

[crash68]

Ram eco diesels had so many bearings fail, they changed the weight of the oil spec'd. One could argue they probably have had even more cam fails in the 5.7, but they literally can't change the spec because they took gov't fuel credits and they lied to everyone saying 5w20 was necessary for mds, which we all know it isn't.

I sort of wonder if the EcoD spec change wasn't so much that the difference between 5W30 to 5W40 was the solution but it clarified the correct oil for them. There were countless number of people reporting the wrong oil being used during oil changes. Several engine failures were reported within 1000 miles of an oil change and on the opposite end of the spectrum several owners went over 100K miles running 5W30 oil.
Unless someone from inside FCA decides to be a whistle blower and spill the beans, we may never know the truth about the oil with the Hemi and/or EcoD.