2nd Try Redline 5-30W

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doubleM

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5w30 redline and a synthetic media filter, read my oil filter thread in my sig. The issue with paper filters are they don't flow better and they allow more contamination to run around. If you want to use the Mopar Name, go for SRT filter.

But, if that 08 isn't ticking, I might use a different oil like m1 or qsud 5w30.[/QUOTE

It has 110,000 miles and does NOT have a tick. I am not sure what might be a synthetic filter, and will read your thread. So maybe use M1 or qsud? at this juncture? BTW, thanks for your thoughtful replies to help folks out.
 

doubleM

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It has 110,000 miles and does NOT have a tick. I am not sure what might be a synthetic filter, and will read your thread. So maybe use M1 or qsud? at this juncture? BTW, thanks for your thoughtful replies to help folks out.
 

Burla

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Yeah, here's the thing about Redline and old engines, sometimes it cleans so well it leaves the engine louder, and then it takes time to repopulate film strength. It has happened at least three times in Ram forum. all with engines over 70k miles on them, and to my knowledge hasn't happened even once with an engine less then 70k miles. Also, PUP which is top two oil for the hemi can also clean away very well, so I might avoid that in this particular situation. Pennzoil HM makes a great oil if you like Pennzoil, but m1 and qsud are really fine oils. I wouldn't risk redline or PUP in my high mileage car unless it has been used throughout. It will likely clean away some stuff that has been quieting the engine.

List of synthetic spun microglass filters, Royal Purple, Wix XP, Fram Ultra, Amsoil EA. Part micro glass, better then paper m1. It is believed the srt is at least part spun microglass and even suggests maybe it is 100%, I don't know for sure. Best way to tell if after driving 7000 miles plus, cut it open. If it is pliable, it is likely going to be spun micro glass, if it is stiff, it will be paper. I use fram ultra in the wife's car, it is cheap and filters well. I just changed her oil this week the filter was in good shape eventhough the oil was black.
 

U&A

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Mopar filters are made under contract. So you never know who is making them at what time. You also don’t know the quality of each contracted company.

Id stick with a big name brand synthetic.

We recommend

Royal purple filter (the oil is a different story)
Amsoil EA
Fram Ultra Synthetic
WIX XP


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 

HammerHead

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It has 110,000 miles and does NOT have a tick. I am not sure what might be a synthetic filter, and will read your thread. So maybe use M1 or qsud? at this juncture? BTW, thanks for your thoughtful replies to help folks out.
If I picked up a truck that’s 11 years old with 100+k miles I’d go straight to Pennzoil High Mileage “Conventional “ oil and the M1 oil filter. Both can be easily found at the local parts store. As others have stated, the tier 1 oil have strong cleaning additives that may cause you more problems.
 

U&A

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If I picked up a truck that’s 11 years old with 100+k miles I’d go straight to Pennzoil High Mileage “Conventional “ oil and the M1 oil filter. Both can be easily found at the local parts store. As others have stated, the tier 1 oil have strong cleaning additives that may cause you more problems.

If you got a high milage truck with no tic...Nothing wrong with running conventional or semi-synthetic with the proper OCI. Redline would be a risk in a high milage vehicle.

But i would still do a WIX XP or Fram US. I dont like the M1 to much. It is a cellulose and synthetic blend. Oil and heat kill cellulose

I’d rather run a filter that cost a couple dollars more and use it for two OCI of that conventional oil.



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 

Bigskyroadglide

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As a user of the SRT filter, I can safely say I've run it 8k miles with zero issues. As far as cutting it open, I haven't, but I did confirm with available research it was spun micro glass before I started using it.

I'm at 3 k on my current OC, so when I get to 7500 miles in a few weeks I will cut this one open to eliminate the mystery and report back.

My 11 is at 124k and I've used the SRT filter in various oil changes since 82k. Avg interval 6k. As I used RP oil up to 100k.I started using redline at 100k. My noise level is down approximately 50% since switching. My OCI has been extended by 1500 to 2k miles since switching primarily out of pure necessity due to lack of time to change.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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374833-9faaf0cb935144193f5d8ddaaf9c621e.jpg

This is probably the most referenced article describing the SRT filter

When an SRT owner takes their vehicle to a driving eventwith the specific intent of exploring the far reaches of the performanceenvelope, they can rest assured that the 6.4-liter HEMI engine will sustain proper oil-pressures in extreme corneringconditions. For track-day use, SRT engineers suggest using the SRT oil filter(part number 05038041AA). Originally designed for Viper applications, it worksgreat with all Chrysler V8 engines. The SRT filter features a higherdifferential pressure bypass valve and reduced pressure

"From the SRT Engineers:

The SRT oil filter for all the past engines and the new22mm inlet SRT filter for the Gen 4 and beyond engines share the samecharacteristics. We worked with many of the filter suppliers to get the bestfeatures. Some fell out for various performance reasons but we ended updeveloping the current SRT filters with one of the mainstream manufacturers (itis different than their commercial offerings - or at least was when wedeveloped it). The high flow oil pumps in our large engines (Viper is thebiggest) can overpower the internal relief valve. When this valve opens itallows some of the high pressure dirty oil to bypass the filter element inorder to keep the filter from being damaged. The SRT filters do indeed have ahigher differential bypass valve to make sure all the oil delivered to yourpowerplant is clean. The housing is slightly thicker than many of the brandsout there to handle the pressure but is not the thickest. The real thick onesfailed our development testing (fractured at the crimped flange). The mediaused was one of the latest synthetics that allowed very fine filtration, moredebris capacity, and much lower restriction than our standard Mopar filter (andjust about every other filter out there).
 
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rubes7202

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Swepco 303 5w30. Great oil. With bosch distance plus oil filter. Check it out.

Here are my first impressions/-seat of my pants-observations on the Swepco (mostly)5W30. So far its been >500km and 10 days. The engine is running quieter at any cruising speed, all I hear is wind/road noise. Start up is quick and the rough idle is gone. Fuel consumption seems to be a tad better (gas gauge), I will have hard numbers after a few fill-ups.
As for the piston slap.....
It has changed......
It is now clear, clean, crisp, somewhat like well tune

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
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Burla

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As for the piston slap.....
It has changed......
It is now clear, clean, crisp, somewhat like well tune

changed over what oil before?
 

Tim Garceau

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Like Amsoil has some magical potion that nobody else can mimick. I should use it in our mass-production machining centers, we’d never need to buy replacement tooling again!
 

FF1899

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The weird thing I ran into is I switched to redline at 20k for preventative maintenance purposes only no noise. Since that oil change the engine is louder then it has ever been or any 4th gen hemi I have had for that matter. It's weird lower end noise to me not valve train tick. I'm going to switch to pup 530 next one and see if it goes away. Currently 2000 on the rl
 

bchap05

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My first change was to Redline 5w30 and its what I'll continue to use as a preventative. I have had no issues or tick but I'm only at 26k
 

mbryanr2019

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Old thread but it fits category...

I was hoping for the tick cure on the 1st change to RL 5w-50, but if anything it was the same or louder. My truck had 42,000 on it for the first RL gulp.

This second change though (~5500 miles)....it's quiet as butter, even at minus 18. Not sure what the deal is.
 

Burla

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Old thread but it fits category...

I was hoping for the tick cure on the 1st change to RL 5w-50, but if anything it was the same or louder. My truck had 42,000 on it for the first RL gulp.

This second change though (~5500 miles)....it's quiet as butter, even at minus 18. Not sure what the deal is.

Good thing you stayed with it. The louder thing usually happens with longer miles on the engine, as in post 75k miles and redline. Usually it is likely from cleaning away sludge that was keeping it quiet, then it is a crap shoot whether the film repopulates or not. My guess, the first run cleaned a way some gunk and by the second run the film repopulated but now instead of destructive film more of a moly plate or microscopic ester lubrication type film. We still aren't 100% on what in the redline formula is making these things go quiet because we haven't reproduced the same effect with other oil and additives to the same extent. The theory at Bob's is that it is viscosity, but I don't believe that because of wat just happened to you and many others, if it was viscosity they would go silent right away. Some type of film is coating your lifters, your guess would be good as mine.

Did you mean 5w30 redline? Two runs 5w30? What filters on both changes? Thanks Burla
 

ChevySlayer69

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Old thread but it fits category...

I was hoping for the tick cure on the 1st change to RL 5w-50, but if anything it was the same or louder. My truck had 42,000 on it for the first RL gulp.

This second change though (~5500 miles)....it's quiet as butter, even at minus 18. Not sure what the deal is.

It's possible you had a faulty oil filter with that first redline run.
 

mbryanr2019

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Did you mean 5w30 redline? Two runs 5w30? What filters on both changes? Thanks Burla
Thanks for the feedback. I like to know why, part of my training as a Reliability engineer lol.
Redline 5w-30,and both times used the Royal Purple 10-48 filter.
 
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