Another cam/lifter

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Fitz-0518

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A set of 4 lifters are about $100- “$150. You need 16. Plus pulling the heads, new head bolts and head gaskets, and you’re still running the chance of the problem being a weak cam lobe. If you aren’t doin it yourself labor isn’t cheap either.


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Question. Is it a fact that our push rods are a different length on the exhaust valve versus the intake valve?
 

chrisp2493

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Question. Is it a fact that our push rods are a different length on the exhaust valve versus the intake valve?

Yes they are different. And the 5.7 pushrods are a different length then the 6.1, the 6.1 rod’s are about .125” longer
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Joizee camper

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Tearing motors apart is not my idea of fun so you have my heart felt sympathies! I know there is a lot of discussion about oil brand, type, and weight. From my own experience, I had a 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 with the 5.7 from brand new and with regular oil changes with conventional motor oil that truck was still strong at 230,000. I think you hit the nail on the head when you said who knows how it was treated for the first 147,000 miles. Best of luck to you.
 
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Ramnm08

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Sorry to hear of you lifter & cam issue Sir ...

Welcome to the Ram Forum from Tennessee.

Thanks for the post Sir !

PUP is a great oil imo , if your definitely gonna use PUP I'd highly recommend the 40wt PUP as it has about 4 times the Molybdenum . The 5.7L likes a high moly oil . PUP is a bit thin for it's wt meaning lower viscosity , so no worries on using the 40 wt for your 5.7L especially in the 2500.

Does your 2011 , 2500 have M.D.S. ?

What lifters and cam are you going with ?


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Unfortunately I didnt have time to wait for parts to be delivered so I had to get stock parts. I can only hope they last 150k.

From the looks of the engine bay, the truck has been off road a bit. It was a Texas fleet truck for over 100k as well.
 

Burla

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I don't think how the truck was treated has jack to do with it. Maybe lubrication does, because it certainly did with the eco diesel that is why they changed the spec to a thicker oil. Now we all know they can't change the spec on the 5.7 for a myriad of reasons, two main ones the lie about mds and the other is the gov't interest in using thin oils for non HD trucks. But above all that, there is one main reason this is happening as much as it does, FCA quality or should I say lack of quality.
 

NCRaineman

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But above all that, there is one main reason this is happening as much as it does, FCA quality or should I say lack of quality.

If the main issue here is lubrication I'd say the fault lies not with the quality of the parts but with the engineers who specified the oil weight, for whatever reason. I've got MDS turned off and will be going to 5w-30 full synthetic at my next oil change... which should be within the next week or so.

A set of 4 lifters are about $100-$150. You need 16. Plus pulling the heads, new head bolts and head gaskets, and you’re still running the chance of the problem being a weak cam lobe. If you aren’t doin it yourself labor isn’t cheap either.

I've done two engine rebuilds in the garage over the past 5 years, so the labor doesn't scare me. I'm pretty handy with a wrench as is my father-in-law. Grandpa was a mechanic for about 30 years and had his own shop up until he retired. I think we've got experience covered.

This is the first "modern" engine I've owned, even though it is still a pushrod design. Living with it should be interesting... which is why I almost held out for a Silverado instead, as I am very familiar with the GM small block. That being said my father-in-law and I both have recently acquired 4th gen Hemi Rams... so the next few years promise to be a learning experience for us if nothing else.
 
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Fitz-0518

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Your family experience and your confidence will make this an enjoyable project. Hoping to get updates.
 

K29445

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I don't think how the truck was treated has jack to do with it. Maybe lubrication does, because it certainly did with the eco diesel that is why they changed the spec to a thicker oil. Now we all know they can't change the spec on the 5.7 for a myriad of reasons, two main ones the lie about mds and the other is the gov't interest in using thin oils for non HD trucks. But above all that, there is one main reason this is happening as much as it does, FCA quality or should I say lack of quality.
I've owned 5 Rams, four were gen2 and one a gen3 with 4.7. My 09 is my first Hemi, a 1500 regular cab, shortbed SLT. I bought it used with 140k. It runs strong with no odd noises. The maintenance records show dealer lube service every 5k. I'm inclined to stick with the recommended oil weight. What is the preferred weight of members here? I'm in Charleston SC, so no real winter weather to worry about.

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SYKRAMMAN

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I've owned 5 Rams, four were gen2 and one a gen3 with 4.7. My 09 is my first Hemi, a 1500 regular cab, shortbed SLT. I bought it used with 140k. It runs strong with no odd noises. The maintenance records show dealer lube service every 5k. I'm inclined to stick with the recommended oil weight. What is the preferred weight of members here? I'm in Charleston SC, so no real winter weather to worry about.

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I would stick with what has been used if you’ve made it that far with no issues. Some engines like different oils, obviously yours like what has been used.
 

Burla

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More to the point not who but why they recommended 20 weight. They don't recommend it for the 2500 plus, and they also didn't recommend the thinner weight for the Cummins like they did the eco diesel. It is one big failed "eco" experiment that doesn't give people better gas mileage on the road, only in the lab.

But what it successfully does is as a policy makes trucks less dependable so people need to keep buying them. Likely this is the real reason for the gov't intervention in the first place. Gov's do not want peoples vehicles to last, because they make a **** load every time someone sells a truck. Trucks values dive and right around 100k miles the cost to replace engines are just about the value of the trucks. We make auto's to be disposable because the gov't wants it that way and so do manu's. FCA is named the least dependable manufacturer.
I've owned 5 Rams, four were gen2 and one a gen3 with 4.7. My 09 is my first Hemi, a 1500 regular cab, shortbed SLT. I bought it used with 140k. It runs strong with no odd noises. The maintenance records show dealer lube service every 5k. I'm inclined to stick with the recommended oil weight. What is the preferred weight of members here? I'm in Charleston SC, so no real winter weather to worry about.

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So we have a poll here and at first abut half of the users use 5w30 or thicker. I believe it has since tilted towards twenty weight no greater then 60/40 of ram forum members though. Many do use heavier oil. There is no proof going up in weight can save an engine from the things that effect Rams. But it is something we discuss here and people can run whatever they like. Just let some of the info in and maybe research on your own and have a strategy, sounds like if it aint broke don't fix it. Other ram forums as well have polls. I've ran Redline 5w30 which is a thick 30 weight for over 5 years. Many of the oil guys even go thicker. Either way sounds like you have had some good rams!
 

GIJoe2010

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I have been running full synthetic (typically Mobil 1, PUP, Royal Purple) since I purchased my truck new. At around 45000 miles I switched from 5w20 (full syn) to 5w30 Redline (or Amsoil full syn) and it has quieted my lifters (HEMI tick) and the truck runs smoother and cooler for the last 10k miles. At 55000, I wish I would have switched years ago but we’ll see how far I get till I lose a lifter or cam lobe ..... but then it’s go-fast parts time, Giggity.
 

Tadpole

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Me too. It all started with P05 cylinder misfire code at 116k miles. I did the job myself with a stock cam, but used Melling lifters.
 

CBTBOB

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I had my 18 Ram 5.7 parked for 2 weeks and started it and got some lifter ticking noise for a day or so and it went away. 10k miles on it and I had the dealer change oil 3 times so far at 1700 miles and every 3000 since. I asked what they use and they said 5w20 Penzoil conventional and a Mopar filter. I realize there's a difference between synthetic and conventional but don't see a difference between Penzoil Platinum 5w20 and Redline 5w20. Am I missing something here?
 
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