Battery drain

[Juls]

My 2020 RAM would not start. Nov. 27, 1023 I put in a new battery. On Dec. 14,2023 my truck wouldn’t start. When I looked under the hood I could hear something running. It would alternate between a high pitched noise and a sshhhhhh noise. I did video the issue.

2020 RAM won’t start. This is what I hear from under the hood.

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It has been at the dealership for weeks. Still no solution. Any help is appreciated.

 

[crash68]

I did video the issue. I am unable to load it.

You need to host the video on a site like YouTube or other video hosting site then share the link.

 

[Juls]

Please see this video

2020 RAM won’t start. This is what I hear from under the hood.

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[RamDiver]

Please see this video

2020 RAM won’t start. This is what I hear from under the hood.

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Wow! That's pretty crazy.

Does this cycling noise just continue indefinitely?

If it does, I would start pulling all the fuses, one at a time and replace them as you go.

With luck, you will eventually identify the source of this noise after pulling the associated fuse.

I would start with the higher value fuses and continue working down in Ampere rating until it stops.

You could make a small black mark on each fuse with a Penman black felt tip marker or something similar, after replacement.

Once you identify the associated fuse, the fuse # should identify the device.

Another option is to use a mechanics stethoscope to identify the noise source.

A long screwdriver pressed up to your ear might be a good substitute, provided the noise isn't too deep in the engine bay.


And, to Ram Forum.



PS; This has been posted in the 3rd gen section and should be in the 4th gen.

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[crash68]

This has been posted in the 3rd gen section and should be in the 4th gen.

make that the Gen5 section, Gen4 doesn't have eTorque

 

[crash68]

Please see this video

That "pump" sound that goes on and off is probably the vacuum booster pump that on the front of the engine.

 

[Juls]

The noise did continue until the battery died!

 

[RamDiver]

That "pump" sound that goes on and off is probably the vacuum booster pump that on the front of the engine.

Are you referring to the brake booster pump?

Why/how would it be running with the key off state?

Sometimes the brake pedal on my truck gets hard, before starting. If I understand this correctly, it's because the brake vacuum leaks down after the truck is off for a period of time.

If this is the brake vacuum pump, pulling fuse #F33 from the panel in the engine bay should silence this noise.

Fuse Box Diagram RAM 1500 / Dodge Ram (2019-2026)

Fuse box diagrams (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) RAM 1500 / Dodge Ram (2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025, 2026).

fuse-box.info

The noise did continue until the battery died!

I hope that you're removing the negative battery lead and connecting a battery minder or other low current charger (2 Amp) to the battery until this fault is corrected.

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[dsherman26]

Wow! That's pretty crazy.

Does this cycling noise just continue indefinitely?

If it does, I would start pulling all the fuses, one at a time and replace them as you go.

With luck, you will eventually identify the source of this noise after pulling the associated fuse.

I would start with the higher value fuses and continue working down in Ampere rating until it stops.

You could make a small black mark on each fuse with a Penman black felt tip marker or something similar, after replacement.

Once you identify the associated fuse, the fuse # should identify the device.

Another option is to use a mechanics stethoscope to identify the noise source.

A long screwdriver pressed up to your ear might be a good substitute, provided the noise isn't too deep in the engine bay.


And, View attachment 534231 to Ram Forum.



PS; This has been posted in the 3rd gen section and should be in the 4th gen.

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X2. However, there is no need to replace the fuses. Fuses either work or they are blown. Blown fuses are open, they don't cause things to be stuck on. Pull them individually (KEEP TRACK OF WHERE THEY GO!) until the noise is gone. Most likely you've got a relay stuck, but going through the fuses would narrow down what is stuck on. You could also pull relays one at a time until the noise is gone, that might be the sticky relay. If not a relay, look for a stuck switch or damaged wiring. Somebody mentioned it could be the vacuum booster, does anyone know if it runs automatically to keep the vacuum boost so you can depress the brake to start? Maybe there's a vacuum leak and it's running indefinitely to maintain vacuum.

 

[Juls]

Are you referring to the brake booster pump?

Why/how would it be running with the key off state?

Sometimes the brake pedal on my truck gets hard, before starting. If I understand this correctly, it's because the brake vacuum leaks down after the truck is off for a period of time.

If this is the brake vacuum pump, pulling fuse #F33 from the panel in the engine bay should silence this noise.

Fuse Box Diagram RAM 1500 / Dodge Ram (2019-2026)

Fuse box diagrams (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) RAM 1500 / Dodge Ram (2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025, 2026).

fuse-box.info

I hope that you're removing the negative battery lead and connecting a battery minder or other low current charger (2 Amp) to the battery until this fault is corrected.

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It is still at the dealership. They told me yesterday that they charged the battery and they are leaving it sit. I was told they are checking the battery periodically looking for a draw on the battery. no answer to the issue yet.

 

[crash68]

Are you referring to the brake booster pump?

The vacuum pump is tied into the master cylinder vacuum port along with what comes off the engine. It's common for the vacuum to bleed down when a vehicle isn't running.
It shouldn't be running if the vehicle is off, it probably shouldn't be that noisy either.

 

[RamDiver]

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[RamDiver]

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[turkeybird56]

The vacuum pump is tied into the master cylinder vacuum port along with what comes off the engine. It's common for the vacuum to bleed down when a vehicle isn't running.
It shouldn't be running if the vehicle is off, it probably shouldn't be that noisy either.

THIS as Crash has said. And that Dealership should have been able to detect immediately with that noise. Heck, just place your hand on different areas till you feel what is running. THAT pump is readily identifiable and big. All IMHO.

CRASH: If not throwing codes, those techs not find their backside with a telly scope, LOL.




OP: In your vehicle, that big round black cap in-between MGU and ECU. No way a competent tech could miss. You can hear the pump running and cycling.

@crash68 Guess old fashion troubleshooting just not exist,. If they cannot find when plug in a OBD reader, argh. Again all IMHO.

 

[RamDiver]

It is still at the dealership. They told me yesterday that they charged the battery and they are leaving it sit. I was told they are checking the battery periodically looking for a draw on the battery. no answer to the issue yet.

If it were me, I'd get my truck away from that dealership and never return again. If that noise continues to cycle as your video shows, why wait for the battery charge to decay?

If the noise has stopped, play the video for them and they should know where to look. If they still can't figure it out, find another dealer ASAP or bring it home and get assistance here.

There are many logical methods to troubleshoot unknown current draw conditions and letting it sit and periodically measuring the voltage is a mighty feeble attempt to resolve the problem.

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[RamDiver]

X2. However, there is no need to replace the fuses. Fuses either work or they are blown. Blown fuses are open, they don't cause things to be stuck on.

I didn't say to replace them with new fuses, LOL.

Simply pull a fuse, if the noise remains, make a small dot on it with a felt-tipped marker and replace it from where it came.

Pull them individually (KEEP TRACK OF WHERE THEY GO!) until the noise is gone.

Have you counted the number of fuses in the TIPM and how would you propose to keep track of all the loose fuses and the correct positions?

Pulling out a pile of fuses and not replacing them immediately will result in the tedious and horrible task of reading the fuse layout on the TIPM lid and searching for the correct receptacle.

Also, the probability of reinstalling that number of fuses will most likely result in errors and then failed fuses after installing a smaller value of fuse where a larger value is supposed to be.

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[dsherman26]

I didn't say to replace them with new fuses, LOL.

Simply pull a fuse, if the noise remains, make a small dot on it with a felt-tipped marker and replace it from where it came

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Sorry, apparently I misunderstood your line:

"I would start pulling all the fuses, one at a time and replace them as you go." to mean "replace with new", not "reinstall".

I never said take them all out at the same time, I just said keep track of where they went; sometimes there are unused fuse locations if you don't have certain options installed, and if you don't pay close attention where they came from, it's easy to put them back in the wrong place. I agree, do ONE at a time until the noise is found, and put it back.

 

[RamDiver]

Sorry, apparently I misunderstood your line:

"I would start pulling all the fuses, one at a time and replace them as you go." to mean "replace with new", not "reinstall".

I never said take them all out at the same time, I just said keep track of where they went; sometimes there are unused fuse locations if you don't have certain options installed, and if you don't pay close attention where they came from, it's easy to put them back in the wrong place. I agree, do ONE at a time until the noise is found, and put it back.

My apology for the misunderstanding.

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[Juls]

If it were me, I'd get my truck away from that dealership and never return again. If that noise continues to cycle as your video shows, why wait for the battery charge to decay?

If the noise has stopped, play the video for them and they should know where to look. If they still can't figure it out, find another dealer ASAP or bring it home and get assistance here.

There are many logical methods to troubleshoot unknown current draw conditions and letting it sit and periodically measuring the voltage is a mighty feeble attempt to resolve the problem.

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I did offer to show the serviceman the video. He seemed to think it wasn’t important to look at. He said the technician would run tests. I took it to a salesman and sent it to him via text. He went and showed it to the technician. Still no word from them today. I too think it is not effective to leave the truck sit and wait for a draw on the battery. It took me three weeks to drain the battery when I was driving it. I live in a small town and that is the only RAM dealership. The only other one is about two hours away. I don’t feel safe driving it there at this point.

 

[RamDiver]

I did offer to show the serviceman the video. He seemed to think it wasn’t important to look at. He said the technician would run tests. I took it to a salesman and sent it to him via text. He went and showed it to the technician. Still no word from them today. I too think it is not effective to leave the truck sit and wait for a draw on the battery. It took me three weeks to drain the battery when I was driving it. I live in a small town and that is the only RAM dealership. The only other one is about two hours away. I don’t feel safe driving it there at this point.

That sounds a bit arrogant on the part of the serviceman.

An important part of customer service is listening to your customer, even when you might think you know better.

I would have insisted that he commit 15 seconds of his life to watch the video.

As previously mentioned, the sounds heard in the video do not sound typical.

Too bad the dealership is so far away, you might consider searching for a small shop with a competent mechanic.

Then reserve the dealership for warranty related matters, if you still have warranty.

I'm not very satisfied with the dealership I've been using either and plan to explore others much further away.

Then after my warranty expires, I know a local guy I can use.


Please keep us updated and if there's any questions that arise, ask away.

The only stupid questions are those not asked.

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