Buying 2016 Rebel - Hemi Tick and other Questions

[PJ Snyder]

Hello all, new here. I currently have a deposit down on a 2016 Rebel with around 116k miles. Initially when researching I believe I was finding what was 3rd gen hemi issues related to the valve seat failure. I was relieved to learn that this issue concerned primarily 08 and older 5.7s if I'm not mistaken. However I completely overlooked the cam roller failures up until the past couple of days. It seems I have opened the flood gates and have read a novel's worth of user reported failures. Unfortunately I had placed a $1000 deposit before finding all this, which I may in fact loose.

It's seems that there is no evidence that the camshaft/roller situation has been remedied at all by the manufacturer. I also cannot verify rather this failure occurs any less with newer models, 2012+ (or better yet 2015 and up). Majority of the threads and videos I've found are 2008-12 related, but I have easily found 2016 Chargers and even a 2020 Ram demonstrating this failure.

I'd like to hear some owners report their experiences on their 2015+ models. I'm not sure if this will help ease my nerves or not. I may end up loosing $1k and just getting a Tacoma.

 

[PJ Snyder]

I have a 2004 Ram 5.7 Hemi with 102,000 miles and no Hemi tick. Runs great using QSUD and NAPA platinum oil filters.

 

[indept]

I have a 2004 Ram 5.7 Hemi with 102,000 miles and no Hemi tick. Runs great using QSUD and NAPA platinum oil filters.

QSUD is a good oil, has a good amount of moly that our hemi's like and you can get a 5 qt jug at walmart for around 20 bucks.

 

[G0S7]

I'm still researching oil at the moment. Seems like people have great results with Redline and a few others. I don't want to dive too deep into the oil debate haha.

If you're using Redline, is liqui-moly not needed for the most part?

Thanks for the heads up on the tool! I have a swivel head and extensions. I will just need to order the right sized socket if I don't have one already and make sure it's the type with the inner rubber grommet/bushing.

I'll add the PCV to the list also while I'm at it. Today I'm going look for a scheduled maintenance list just in case there's anything else I can go ahead and knock out.

 

[G0S7]

anything like that, swivel spark plug tool. make sure it is right size for hemi plug.

I can see this thin wall type coming in handy. No rubber grommet but it is magnetic which may work just as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Lexivon-Swiv...mi+spark+plug+tool+back&qid=1610531554&sr=8-5

 

[Wild one]

I can see this thin wall type coming in handy. No rubber grommet but it is magnetic which may work just as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Lexivon-Swiv...mi+spark+plug+tool+back&qid=1610531554&sr=8-5

This kit from Gearwrench will pretty well cover any sparkplug you have to remove.

GEARWRENCH 3 Pc. 3/8" Drive 6 Pt. Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Set - 41740D - Spark Plug And Ignition Tools - Amazon.com

 

[Murphy Slaw]

Those plugs will go 120,000 easy.......

 

[HuskerRam]

I'm still researching oil at the moment. Seems like people have great results with Redline and a few others. I don't want to dive too deep into the oil debate haha.

If you're using Redline, is liqui-moly not needed for the most part?

Thanks for the heads up on the tool! I have a swivel head and extensions. I will just need to order the right sized socket if I don't have one already and make sure it's the type with the inner rubber grommet/bushing.

I'll add the PCV to the list also while I'm at it. Today I'm going look for a scheduled maintenance list just in case there's anything else I can go ahead and knock out.

If you're running Redline, liquid moly isn't necessary. That oil has an insane amount of moly in it already...good stuff.

 

[G0S7]

If you're running Redline, liquid moly isn't necessary. That oil has an insane amount of moly in it already...good stuff.

Great, that's what I was hoping to hear.

 

[Burla]

I'm still researching oil at the moment. Seems like people have great results with Redline and a few others. I don't want to dive too deep into the oil debate haha.

If you're using Redline, is liqui-moly not needed for the most part?

Thanks for the heads up on the tool! I have a swivel head and extensions. I will just need to order the right sized socket if I don't have one already and make sure it's the type with the inner rubber grommet/bushing.

I'll add the PCV to the list also while I'm at it. Today I'm going look for a scheduled maintenance list just in case there's anything else I can go ahead and knock out.

There are two options, redline (thread) and poor man's redline (thread). Anyone worrying about hemi tick should read those threads and see the polls and poll results. The end of the lubegard thread has some science posted from an engineer that says the issue with the hemi's can be traced back to lubrication and lack of additives. Lubegard is oil soluble moly, and mos2 is moly powder suspended on powder. I would only use mos2 if the tick could not be eased with redline or lubegard, as it can fall out of suspension.

 

[kurek]

I'm still researching oil at the moment.

I'm convinced that's a topic where the more you read from people the less informed you become, it's basically a political opinion at this point

 

[Burla]

100's of ram forum members have taking up testing and reporting different oils on hemi tick specifically over a decade, politics has zero to do with it. Everyone was encouraged to poll whether the products worked or didn't work. Oddly enough, the results here mimic the results on amazon reviews, and also follow the science of EP additives.

The best part is we have developed a strategy where the user can use whatever oil they want, simply dump in a cheap oil soluble moly additive. Read this basic moly info. Much more science on moly posted in syn thread if you are interested. When a new guy has a question, people who are tired of hearing it want to post and mess up the thread. Be bigger man, the dude has a specific question. There is zero politics in moly, and fca made an oil specific for hemi and the only thing that stands out is the super high moly level. Not all moly is the same, you want oil soluble moly, MoTDC is what is being used in most oils. It does exactly what it is designed to do, it plates under pressure thus making points under pressure move smoothly.

 

[G0S7]

No need to debate guys. I'm VERY appreciative of all your input, knowledge and experiences shared here. I've honestly been impressed with the complete knowledge dump this site provides and it makes me even happier with my purchase, knowing that there is such a thriving and knowledgeable enthusiast community here.

 

[Ricks Ram]

No need to debate guys. I'm VERY appreciative of all your input, knowledge and experiences shared here. I've honestly been impressed with the complete knowledge dump this site provides and it makes me even happier with my purchase, knowing that there is such a thriving and knowledgeable enthusiast community here.

One thing I want to mention is it's definitely a good idea to address the manifold issue before there is a problem as you stated you were considering. I am going to do the same thing with my truck. You mentioned possibly using the BBK shorties. I have no skin in the game and haven't actually installed shorties yet but I have seen several people post that they had issues with the BBK headers having pin hole leaks and bad sealing surfaces. After doing my research for my application it seems like JBA and Kooks have the best success rate and quality. I'm personally going to go with the Kooks. They are extremely expensive but it's worth it to me to insure I just replace them once. Im not trying to start the great shorty header debate of 2021 but wanted to mention that you should do your research on the headers. If you were to start a thread asking which shorty to use I can pretty much guarantee it would be mostly JBA and Kooks.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk

 

[HEMIMANN]

NGK says iridium plated plugs go something like 1/3 longer than platinum plated, and std. platinum plug change is 100,000 miles.

I've seen some 100,000 platinums that were in pretty bad shape from electrode wear and / or fouling, so I always changed platinums at 50,000 miles. I mean, it still beats the 30,000 miles of the nickel plated plugs in the first Gen III hemi's, right? (those were needed due to coils not being big enough to fire 2 plugs needed for EPA emissions).

I wanted to change back to platinum for better spark, but someone here reminded me the ECM is programmed for factory plug resistance, which is iridium. Oh, well.

 

[HEMIMANN]

No need to debate guys. I'm VERY appreciative of all your input, knowledge and experiences shared here. I've honestly been impressed with the complete knowledge dump this site provides and it makes me even happier with my purchase, knowing that there is such a thriving and knowledgeable enthusiast community here.

lol we always debate - it's what gearheads do!

 

[G0S7]

One thing I want to mention is it's definitely a good idea to address the manifold issue before there is a problem as you stated you were considering. I am going to do the same thing with my truck. You mentioned possibly using the BBK shorties. I have no skin in the game and haven't actually installed shorties yet but I have seen several people post that they had issues with the BBK headers having pin hole leaks and bad sealing surfaces. After doing my research for my application it seems like JBA and Kooks have the best success rate and quality. I'm personally going to go with the Kooks. They are extremely expensive but it's worth it to me to insure I just replace them once. Im not trying to start the great shorty header debate of 2021 but wanted to mention that you should do your research on the headers. If you were to start a thread asking which shorty to use I can pretty much guarantee it would be mostly JBA and Kooks.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk

Thanks for bringing that up! I noticed people reporting that the gaskets that came with the BBKs were junk. Knowing now that the consensus here says JBA is the better option out of the two as you said, I will definitely go that route. JBAs weren't that much more on Summit anyways if I remember correctly.

Do you plan on using the fasteners that come with the Kooks set or will you be upgrading the hardware? I'm wondering if the Stage 8 fasteners will be worth it by helping bullet proof the install.

 

[Wild one]

Thanks for bringing that up! I noticed people reporting that the gaskets that came with the BBKs were junk. Knowing now that the consensus here says JBA is the better option out of the two as you said, I will definitely go that route. JBAs weren't that much more on Summit anyways if I remember correctly.

Do you plan on using the fasteners that come with the Kooks set or will you be upgrading the hardware? I'm wondering if the Stage 8 fasteners will be worth it by helping bullet proof the install.

Spring for a set of Remflex 6022 gaskets,they're a good quality graphite gasket that doesn't require re-torquing,and use the bolts that come with the headers.The Remflex gaskets are gaining quite a following these days.You only torque a header to 20lb-ft.Stay away from the Stage 8's,you can't get all the clips on them anyways,and the clips have a habit of rattling after a bit,and will cause your knock sensors to pull timing,plus if you ever have to remove the headers,you'll want to strangle the S.O.B that sold you the Stage 8's,lol

MOPAR Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket (remflex.com)

Remflex Inc. 6022 Remflex Exhaust Header Gasket Sets | Summit Racing

 

[G0S7]

Spring for a set of Remflex 6022 gaskets,they're a good quality graphite gasket that doesn't require re-torquing,and use the bolts that come with the headers.The Remflex gaskets are gaining quite a following these days.You only torque a header to 20lb-ft.Stay away from the Stage 8's,you can't get all the clips on them anyways,and the clips have a habit of rattling after a bit,and will cause your knock sensors to pull timing,plus if you ever have to remove the headers,you'll want to strangle the S.O.B that sold you the Stage 8's,lol

MOPAR Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket (remflex.com)

Remflex Inc. 6022 Remflex Exhaust Header Gasket Sets | Summit Racing

Excellent info sir lol. That pretty much just eliminated who knows how many hrs of reading and searching for reviews. The Stage 8s did seem like a pain, so I'm happy not to go that route. Adding the Remflex 6022 to the list along with the JBA shorties.

 

[Wild one]

Excellent info sir lol. That pretty much just eliminated who knows how many hrs of reading and searching for reviews. The Stage 8s did seem like a pain, so I'm happy not to go that route. Adding the Remflex 6022 to the list along with the JBA shorties.

Just be careful installing them,they won't take much bending.I've been running them on my JBA long tubes for the last 5 years with no issues,and wouldn't use any other gasket .Don't go all gorilla on the bolts when you tighten them down,20 lb-ft of torque isn't really much more then hand tight with a 1/4" drive rachet