Cam Failure Poll

[Burla]

2017 1500 5.7 with 57,000km and driving well so far. PUP5w30 with wix filter.


Id like to know if there are any full synthetic 5w30 failures but not sure how we will find that out

Everyone with a hemi should read page 12 of this pdf. It isn't the viscosity as much as the additives. Think of viscosity in terms of oil psi, the oil pump almost equals out 5w20 and 5w30, but read the pdf above and the engineers words, additives are the only real answer if you believe the white paper on cam wear. It is no coincidence that 6 cam fails in a row on the board as noted in syn thread long ago where non moly oils. 5w30 is a good choice, high moly dense base oils 5w30 much better choice.

 

[fijicorey]

110k of mostly highway miles. I have a 3 mile commute to work (when I'm allowed to work there) but a 500 mile round-trip drive to my cabin. About 75k of my 110k was highway miles. I just calculated my average oil change interval was around 6,200 miles, well ahead of the Chrysler max of 10,000 but more than the 3-5k that some recommend.

Did you idle a lot? From what I can tell, that can accelerate this issue. Did you also use a particular brand of oil?

My 2015 is at 69k mi. so far so good. I'm just keeping a nice vehicle repair buffer in my savings for this issue.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Interesting report, Burla. Thanks for sharing.

Don't know what hardness spec is for the rollers and cams, but the measured 57 Rockwell C is up there. They aren't "soft" or seem improperly hardened (like the infamous GM 1st induction-hardened cams of the early 1980's).

Evidence of long cycle inadequate lubrication is the root cause of failure - with the rollers eventually sticking, seizing, skidding on the cams. By that point, it's all over.

The real question is why? All we can do is use the best band aid lubricants available. By the time the member who rebuilt his engine for full time lifter bore oiling has enough miles on to matter, these engines may be gone via way of the dinosaur. Such a shame.

 

[Travis8352]

Interesting report, Burla. Thanks for sharing.

Don't know what hardness spec is for the rollers and cams, but the measured 57 Rockwell C is up there. They aren't "soft" or seem improperly hardened (like the infamous GM 1st induction-hardened cams of the early 1980's).

Evidence of long cycle inadequate lubrication is the root cause of failure - with the rollers eventually sticking, seizing, skidding on the cams. By that point, it's all over.

The real question is why? All we can do is use the best band aid lubricants available. By the time the member who rebuilt his engine for full time lifter bore oiling has enough miles on to matter, these engines may be gone via way of the dinosaur. Such a shame.

Who was the member who did that?

 

[HEMIMANN]

Who was the member who did that?

If I could remember I would have named them. So many threads regarding the same topic - you'll have to search through them.

 

[Travis8352]

If I could remember I would have named them. So many threads regarding the same topic - you'll have to search through them.

I made it 25 percent thru the syn thread slowly going thru it when my girlfriend decided to close all tabs on my phone so i gavw up lol

 

[Quint]

Did you idle a lot? From what I can tell, that can accelerate this issue. Did you also use a particular brand of oil?

My 2015 is at 69k mi. so far so good. I'm just keeping a nice vehicle repair buffer in my savings for this issue.

I did not idle much even in winter if I remote started, it was never more than a minute or two even on the coldest days here in Minnesota.

I was not an oil ****. I used API certified oils whenever I changed it myself. My dealer is not close so I rarely went there, but certainly did visit a Jiffy Lube or two in the winters. What the service manager at the dealership told me last week is that in his years, the folks like myself that drive like old men tend to have the lifter issue. The guys that stand on the gas pedal for the first 20-30k miles tend to get twice the mileage before big breakdowns. That's anecdotal so take it with a grain of salt...

My 2015 developed the hemi tick in the 60-70k range, but only within the first 15 or 20 seconds after starting. According to my maintenance records, I first took mine to the shop at 74k due to the misfire so it wasn't long after I started to get the tick.

 

[Burla]

I did not idle much even in winter if I remote started, it was never more than a minute or two even on the coldest days here in Minnesota.

I was not an oil ****. I used API certified oils whenever I changed it myself. My dealer is not close so I rarely went there, but certainly did visit a Jiffy Lube or two in the winters. What the service manager at the dealership told me last week is that in his years, the folks like myself that drive like old men tend to have the lifter issue. The guys that stand on the gas pedal for the first 20-30k miles tend to get twice the mileage before big breakdowns. That's anecdotal so take it with a grain of salt...

My 2015 developed the hemi tick in the 60-70k range, but only within the first 15 or 20 seconds after starting. According to my maintenance records, I first took mine to the shop at 74k due to the misfire so it wasn't long after I started to get the tick.

It's like a clock, those hemi's that start ticking by in large happen at the 70-130k miles on the clock. Mine showed up sooner, way sooner, but by far and away 70k miles is when these cams are failing as a group. do you have a different lubrication strategy now?

 

[Hemi 808]

I just voted yes for my 2015 CC Sport. 52,000+ miles on it. Not a daily driver. Last 2 oil changes, I used Redline 5w30 which did help quiet and smooth out the engine and no tick at that time. I now noticed a constant tick on the driver side from start up, even after 30 minutes of drivings. I only noticed it because I had the hood up with the engine running. Only on the driver's side. I always remote started my truck when at home and listen thru the wheels well. No tick. Hood up, I can hear it so I believe I am at the beginning stages of lifter failure. No codes. Runs perfectly fine. Sounds like taking 2 marbles and banging together (higher pitch sound). Broken exhaust bolts can be heard thru the wheel well. Had both sides repaired by the dealer before warranty expired.

I am sick to my stomach. Not sure if I want to spend 4 - 5k to fix. May just sell it and consider leaving RAM. I don't know. What would you guys to?

Here's a video. Cold start. Listen around the 40 second mark.


https://youtu.be/1oT42vU7mbs

 

[Brandon-w]

I just voted yes for my 2015 CC Sport. 52,000+ miles on it. Not a daily driver. Last 2 oil changes, I used Redline 5w30 which did help quiet and smooth out the engine and no tick at that time. I now noticed a constant tick on the driver side from start up, even after 30 minutes of drivings. I only noticed it because I had the hood up with the engine running. Only on the driver's side. I always remote started my truck when at home and listen thru the wheels well. No tick. Hood up, I can hear it so I believe I am at the beginning stages of lifter failure. No codes. Runs perfectly fine. Sounds like taking 2 marbles and banging together (higher pitch sound). Broken exhaust bolts can be heard thru the wheel well. Had both sides repaired by the dealer before warranty expired.

I am sick to my stomach. Not sure if I want to spend 4 - 5k to fix. May just sell it and consider leaving RAM. I don't know. What would you guys to?

Not saying you're wrong but you could also just be hearing an injector clack. If you're really worried about it disconnect one injector at a time and see if the noise goes away. Be ready to clear engine codes tho.

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[Hemi 808]

Not saying you're wrong but you could also just be hearing an injector clack. If you're really worried about it disconnect one injector at a time and see if the noise goes away. Be ready to clear engine codes tho.

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Edited my post with a video.

Anyone please advise.

 

[Brandon-w]

Edited my post with a video.

Anyone please advise.

Yeah that sounds Alittle deeper than an injector clack [emoji17]was hoping it'd be easy for you buddy.

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[Hemi 808]

Yeah that sounds Alittle deeper than an injector clack [emoji17]was hoping it'd be easy for you buddy.

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Yeah, it is what it is. I guess it would be better to just get it fixed before it gets worst. Then decide to keep or not.

Sending an oil sample to Blackstone. Previous sample looked great. They said lower wear than most Hemi's.

Anyone please advise on what lifters and/or cam to get?

 

[Brandon-w]

Texas speed has MDS delete kits. Also Moe's is a vendor and sells that stuff too. It could be a lifter gone just pounding.
That wouldn't show on a Blackstone because it's mechanical failure not wear and tear.

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[jws123]

Yeah, it is what it is. I guess it would be better to just get it fixed before it gets worst. Then decide to keep or not.

Sending an oil sample to Blackstone. Previous sample looked great. They said lower wear than most Hemi's.

Anyone please advise on what lifters and/or cam to get?

Stop running it.

You may not need a cam your truck sounds like mine when a roller lifter started to fall apart and rattle around and was not 100% gone except i kept running mine til it wiped out and really knocked. you may get lucky with just lifters but then again if your going to tear it apart you are in there any ways ig.

 

[Hemi 808]

Texas speed has MDS delete kits. Also Moe's is a vendor and sells that stuff too. It could be a lifter gone just pounding.
That wouldn't show on a Blackstone because it's mechanical failure not wear and tear.

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Really? It wouldn't show on Blackstone? That gave me a false sense of security! I guess the damage was already done when I bought the truck, 6000 miles ago.

 

[Hemi 808]

Stop running it.

You may not need a cam your truck sounds like mine when a roller lifter started to fall apart and rattle around and was not 100% gone except i kept running mine til it wiped out and really knocked. you may get lucky with just lifters but then again if your going to tear it apart you are in there any ways ig.

Hopefully, I can save a few bucks without needing a cam. I guess the next trip will be to the local shop.

HEMI

 

[Brandon-w]

Really? It wouldn't show on Blackstone? That gave me a false sense of security! I guess the damage was already done when I bought the truck, 6000 miles ago.

Yeah I mean Blackstone is great. But if u ou aren't wearing metal, or bearings it's not gonna give you any hits. You drop a lifter or valve spring it won't tell you as it's just mechanical. Just luck of the draw in your case. Like I said above lucky me I've checked almost all of the can go wrong will go wrong boxes with my truck [emoji17] and I don't drive it that hard.

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[Quint]

My two cents. I was staring at $4700 for the cam/lifter and I could tell that both ball joints needed to be done, so I started shopping. I am picking up my new 2021 on Wednesday. I went to several dealers. They were offering up to $17k trade-in for my 2015 Bighorn with 112k miles...which I thought was pretty good. I told each one of them that it needed the cam & lifters and they all said the same thing, that they didn't care. They were going to sell it at auction and the engine would be someone else's problem to find and/or deal with. Think about the next time you're buying a used car/truck.

Now - you could fix that engine and then try and sell it but you might find that these dealers are going to give you the same price with or without it getting fixed. Save your cash.

Mine is paid off so I didn't want to start up payments again, but $4700 plus ball joints is probably $6k that I instead put down on a new truck that should get me another 150k miles or hopefully more. Things to think about.

 

[Murphy Slaw]

My two cents. I was staring at $4700 for the cam/lifter and I could tell that both ball joints needed to be done, so I started shopping. I am picking up my new 2021 on Wednesday.

Did you get another Hemi ?