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Yes the clamp on the new style will prevent rotation eventually leading to separation. The clamp is an all around better design if you look at both. When I had the one nut loose I could easily see how its game over after that. Still though with common sense you would really feel and see it in the wheel alignment before complete separation. But still who wants to have to worry about that with a new 60k plus truck.
There has never been a drag link in automotive HISTORY that has been ment to be NON ADJUSTABLE. So you go ahead and weld yours and pay extra outside the dealer to cut and reweld yours during an alignment. Also one alignment shop outside the dealer already told me if I weld that part they will refuse to cut the welds and do an alignment because it's a dealer safety issue and they want zero liability. So if your ok with that band aid fix when there is a better part out that fits then go ahead. I didn't pay 50k plus for a half ass fix and future pain in the ass issues I want my truck safe. So many people have done the weld fix only to have further issues. I have been messing with cars for 20 years and all this is about is fca being cheap as **** period.
Also if you use a Power Wagon or off road which this truck is meant to do you will be shocked at how much you actually need to straighten your wheel over time or need an alignment. It's all part of off roading
Mine has writing too.
I haven't read all the posts on this issue,has anyone looked into the warranty from fca on the new mopar drag link either installed at dealership or diy
My dealer said they would not install the new drag link unless the old one failed their inspection criteria. They even refused to replace it if I supplied the new part.
I don't mean to poke a bear here, but your 2019 came with a better part too. The part the other trucks should have came with to begin with. A couple quick tacks and some spray paint just doesn't seem like a caring solution to the thousands of people who just dropped 50k plus on a truck. I think this is what's bothering the bulk of individuals. You are certainly correct that we probably don't need to worry about it but this is the issue people have with the fix.
I saw you say you were a welder and an iron worker well I know full well what you hacks are capable of...lol j/k
Well you seem to be the only one ok on here with that fix. But like I said if you know about vehicles drag links are meant to be adjustable period. I respect your opinion but I didn't spend my money on a half ass bandaid fix that your defending when THERE IS A NEW PART AVAILABLE. Now with that said I ordered my OEM part and intend on fixing it correctly. You may be a welder but many others dont have access to that equipment nor do they have that skill. Like I said if you actually use your Power Wagon offroad like its built for you will not be shocked at how much you need to adjust the drag link to center your wheel. I am not going to get into a ******* match with you over a common sense issue that drag links have always been meant to be adjustable. So if you like living in the era were you have to take your vehicle in to get stuff adjusted or have a welder then go right ahead. I know how drag links look like on every other brand of vehicle and guess what it's not welded point proven.
Totally agree he says he spent 70k to weld on an adjustable part blows my mind. Must be one of those hold my beer moments. I am checking out. One thing I learned along time ago if I may be blunt is you cant fix stupid just gonna say it. Sorry if that crosses a line but not sorry
So I can say with absolute certainty that part #68338342AB works on 4th gen 2500s. Install was super simple.I did spray the tapered fits a few hours before with PB blaster, not sure if it made much difference. Definitely get a Pittman arm puller for the Pittman arm side. The knuckle side I smacked good on the knuckle and drag link a few times then used a brass hammer and gave a smack on the bolt on the ball joint and it popped right out. I made a match mark on my Pittman arm for reference so I could get close when adjusting it. I followed the recall bulletin torque values. Torqued the Pittman arm nut to 27ftlbs plus an additional 180° rotation on the nut. This turned out to be about 135ft lbs. Knuckle side was torqued to 44ftlbs plus 105°. This was about 70ftlbs. Coming off this nut was extremely loose I doubt it was more than 25ft lbs.
Broke the locking collar loose and spun adjustment sleeve easily by hand to move the steering wheel to where I needed it. Took it on a drive and had to make further adjusting. After I got it set I match marked the position of everything and torqued the lock collar to 55ftlbs.
my new drag link should be here tomorrow
ETA: I also made sure my old and new links were close in length before I installed to minimize my needed adjustment
With the adjustments and drives down the road to check the wheel maybe an hour and twenty minutes total. Easy job but definitely invest in the puller!
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Thanks. Guess it figures. I’m Irish/Polish too! I think I’ll take the passenger side off
Yeah, I think I got lucky on the passenger side. It fought me for a minute but it popped fairly easy as well. But getting a beater on it would be way easier with the wheel off
