Engine Build

[Hagar1]

Well, I started my engine build. First order of business was to reassemble the heads. So, I opened the box of parts from Rock Auto to get the package of valve seals out and to my dismay, the package had been opened and stapled closed again. The little seal protector was missing. Now, the interesting part is the packaging clearly states, "not returnable if opened." I'm going to take photos as I go along so I'll post them when I'm done and hopefully a little write up.

 

[aszumilo]

Well, I started my engine build. First order of business was to reassemble the heads. So, I opened the box of parts from Rock Auto to get the package of valve seals out and to my dismay, the package had been opened and stapled closed again. The little seal protector was missing. Now, the interesting part is the packaging clearly states, "not returnable if opened." I'm going to take photos as I go along so I'll post them when I'm done and hopefully a little write up.

Reach out to Rock Auto. I had a part show up and when I opened the packaging, it was empty. E-mailed Rock Auto and they sent me another one at no charge.

 

[Hagar1]

Reach out to Rock Auto. I had a part show up and when I opened the packaging, it was empty. E-mailed Rock Auto and they sent me another one at no charge.

I did ...... so far, Crickets!

 

[Hagar1]

Reach out to Rock Auto. I had a part show up and when I opened the packaging, it was empty. E-mailed Rock Auto and they sent me another one at no charge.

I've ordered from them 3 times now, first order, was poorly packed and the carrier managed to break the box and one part was missing. Contacted Rock and they shipped the replacement very quickly. Second order was OK. The most recent order, well, the package of valve seals had been opened and stapled closed. Within an inch or less from the opening was a notice, "not returnable if opened" yet somehow it WAS returned and I ended up with it. This isn't the first engine that I've worked on so I know how to solve that problem. The point is clearly that that part should have never been shipped.

 

[Hagar1]

Well, progress today was slow what with life getting in the way. On the bright side, I got the block all finished with the clean up, dropped the crank in and did a plastiguage on all the main bearings. All a smidgen over .002" but under .003" so they are good to go. Probably will get all the pistons ringed tomorrow, or even this evening if I feel so inspired.

 

[Hagar1]

Got a question about cylinder heads ......... Is there a left and a right head or is there only a left and right head gasket?
I can refine my question a bit ...... I found a "laser" etching on the intake side of both heads. one is 2054022613 and the other is 2054022211
It used to be that they used odd numbers for left and even numbers for the right both end in an odd number yet these were the heads that came off the engine.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Got a question about cylinder heads ......... Is there a left and a right head or is there only a left and right head gasket?
I can refine my question a bit ...... I found a "laser" etching on the intake side of both heads. one is 2054022613 and the other is 2054022211
It used to be that they used odd numbers for left and even numbers for the right both end in an odd number yet these were the heads that came off the engine.

Yes, these cylinder heads are left and right specific along with the head gaskets.

You should see a casting number on each head that looks like this...

53021616DD - Right
53021616DE - Left

 

[jws123]

And left being drivers side right pass side tons of people mix that up.

 

[Wild one]

And left being drivers side right pass side tons of people mix that up.

I'm always amazed at the amount of guys who think they're a mechanic,but don't know that the left and right side are based on sitting behind the steering wheel in the drivers seat. That applies to both left and right hand drive vehicles. Even if the steering wheel is on the wrong side,left and right are still the same if you're in the drivers seat

 

[Hagar1]

I'm always amazed at the amount of guys who think they're a mechanic,but don't know that the left and right side are based on sitting behind the steering wheel in the drivers seat. That applies to both left and right hand drive vehicles. Even if the steering wheel is on the wrong side,left and right are still the same if you're in the drivers seat

Yup! I've had to explain that to a lot of people over the years. There are a lot of things that I have forgotten over the years with being retired for almost 20 years but that ain't one. After a few years C.R.A.F.T. disease sets in and well .......

 

[Hagar1]

Yes, these cylinder heads are left and right specific along with the head gaskets.

You should see a casting number on each head that looks like this...

53021616DD - Right
53021616DE - Left

Thanks!

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Thanks!

No problem. It sucks to get them mixed up and find out after the fact.

 

[Hagar1]

No problem. It sucks to get them mixed up and find out after the fact.

Yes, that would indeed be nasty!

 

[04fxdwgi]

Yes, that would indeed be nasty!

How does it go?

"The only stupid question is the one that wasn't asked"

 

[Fast69Mopar]

How does it go?

"The only stupid question is the one that wasn't asked"

For sure. What makes it even harder for the home garage warriors is the many aftermarket gasket packages that come with head gaskets that do not have the
" L" or the "R" embossed in the gaskets along with "TOP" to designate which way the gaskets should be placed.

Take your time and pay attention to the alignment of the oil drains in the gasket and you can tell when it doesn't look right. I put a stock 5.7 together for a customer a few days ago who lives on a fixed income and we used an Amazon gasket package and the head gaskets were not labeled at all. I've been around the 5.7 long enough to know how the head gaskets should be situated but for the home mechanic who doesn't do this for a living I can see how it would be very easy to mix them up and then be forced to disassemble the top end just to install the head gaskets correctly.

If you ever have to use the cheap, aftermarket head gasket and you are unsure about their placement go to the interwebs and pull up a picture of the Mopar, FelPro or Cometic head gaskets and compare your gasket to the picture to determine the correct orientation. It will save you the headache and the extra time.

 

[Hagar1]

Thank you for the information. This "home warrior" only uses brand name products, no cheap chinese knockoffs. Clevite, Felpro, Perfect Circle and such. I must admit that I am rusty but I wrenched for a lot of years. I started my apprenticeship here in Canada back in 1966. Just that I've been retired for almost 20 years and the rust is building. I used to have access to all sorts of manuals and test equipment but with retirement, all those things went away. So now I glean what I can out of Mitchel DIY and what folks want to share on these board.

 

[Hagar1]

I can't even keep track of how long that I've been retired!

 

[Hagar1]

Just as a point of interest, after pulling that 5.7 apart for rebuild, I observed that both mains and rod bearings were in perfect condition. One lobe on the cam no longer existed. Had I known the bearings were so good, I'd have just cleaned it and threw in a new cam. It got all new bearings just because. If I was stuck or low budget, I'd reuse them, they were that good.
Now, the next fun thing is to set up the cam, gotta dig up my degree wheel and fabricate a "stop" to facilitate determining TDC and setting up the degree wheel accurately.
Just taking my time, no flat rate any more.

 

[EdGs]

Just as a point of interest, after pulling that 5.7 apart for rebuild, I observed that both mains and rod bearings were in perfect condition. One lobe on the cam no longer existed. Had I known the bearings were so good, I'd have just cleaned it and threw in a new cam. It got all new bearings just because. If I was stuck or low budget, I'd reuse them, they were that good.
Now, the next fun thing is to set up the cam, gotta dig up my degree wheel and fabricate a "stop" to facilitate determining TDC and setting up the degree wheel accurately.
Just taking my time, no flat rate any more.

What kind of miles were on that engine?

If one cam lobe was gone, pretty wild that the cam bearings weren't toast.

Any pics of the original bearings and cam damage?

 

[Hagar1]

I didn't think to take a photo of the cam but I still have the rod bearings on my work bench. I'd like to post photos but microsoft did a bunch of nasty yo me on the last update.

Same cam bearings are being used, wasn't a need to change them. If the oil filter does its job, this is the way is should be.
On the engine currently in the truck, there is one lifter that is really hammering. I change oil and filter regularly at about 7000 kilometers and I also use a magnetic oil drain plug and do ne ever see debris in either. I use Mopar filters, and Castrol 5W20 oil. I open every filter with a filter cutter. No trace of debris.