Fuel Injectors-replacement

[cutman2000]

Not sure if the mechanic checked the compression, I didn't. I'm not mechanically inclined and I don't even know how to do that. I just drive and *uck 5hit up, lol. Just kidding man. But I really have no idea how to check the compression.

 

[Yardbird]

Not sure if the mechanic checked the compression, I didn't. I'm not mechanically inclined and I don't even know how to do that. I just drive and *uck 5hit up, lol. Just kidding man. But I really have no idea how to check the compression.

They should check it.

You need three things to run a gas engine, fire, fuel, and compression.

 

[cutman2000]

Waiting on the cylinder and switch, the mechanic will install this for $160. Then I'll have to hire someone to program it.

 

[Tominator223]

If the coil in the injector still triggers. Often times they can just be cleaned. I got somewhere over 330,000 miles on my injectors be for I removed em & put a cleaned set of junkyard injectors. Still have the originals cleaned & ready to put back in , if I need em. Could be a bad ground cable (main one ) on battery. As injectors are triggered by ground not hot.

 

[cutman2000]

If the coil in the injector still triggers. Often times they can just be cleaned. I got somewhere over 330,000 miles on my injectors be for I removed em & put a cleaned set of junkyard injectors. Still have the originals cleaned & ready to put back in , if I need em. Could be a bad ground cable (main one ) on battery. As injectors are triggered by ground not hot.

The mechanic ran the test and said it was 3 things: key switch, key clyinder, TIPm. The Ram dealership said the first 2 could be the issue and causing the TIPM to throw codes and suggested fixing the first 2 first to see.

 

[Dusty]

When an OEM part has a much higher price than aftermarket, there's a reason. Likewise, the parts cannon approach usually defeats the desire to spend as little as possible to successfully solve an issue.

You've received some very good advice here, but you're objective seems to be avoid a good diagnostic. A well-trained diagnostician with the proper diagnostic tool usually saves money and shaves time.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 145371 miles.

 

[cutman2000]

When an OEM part has a much higher price than aftermarket, there's a reason. Likewise, the parts cannon approach usually defeats the desire to spend as little as possible to successfully solve an issue.

You've received some very good advice here, but you're objective seems to be avoid a good diagnostic. A well-trained diagnostician with the proper diagnostic tool usually saves money and shaves time.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 145371 miles.

What are you talking about?? Reread. You've totally not read my messages clearly, Dusty.

 

[Dusty]

What are you talking about?? Reread. You've totally not read my messages clearly, Dusty.

Perhaps. It was a long thread.

I guess I was reacting to the impression in the initial comment:

"I'm looking at spending $350-$1500 for a set of oem injectors(8). But I'm seeing sets for under $100($30-$80 for a set). I mean if I had to replace the injectors 6 months to a year later, I would be satisfied."

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 145371 miles.

 

[cutman2000]

Perhaps. It was a long thread.

I guess I was reacting to the impression in the initial comment:

"I'm looking at spending $350-$1500 for a set of oem injectors(8). But I'm seeing sets for under $100($30-$80 for a set). I mean if I had to replace the injectors 6 months to a year later, I would be satisfied."

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 145371 miles.

Oh okay, this is just a backup truck that I would like to get at least 3 more years out of. Not really wanting to restore it. And it doesn't appear to even be a fuel injector issue. The 2nd mechanic that I hired ran his diag test and said he's seeing that it's the key cylinder/switch and possibly the TIPM. So that's where we are now. Going to do the switch/cylinder replacement hoping that will fix the issue(then have someone to come in and program it to the truck), if that doesn't fix the issue then we'll look into replacing the TIPM.

The first time I called someone(Tester guy A) to come out and look at it tried a few things and said it would need a more thorough test, said he'd have another guy(Mechanic guy A) to come out. For some reason I don't think he(Tester guy A) was able to get any codes from the truck(2007 Ram 1500, so I went and bought a premium scanner and got codes). I guess based on what he(Tester guy A) concluded he then told the other guy(Mechanic guy A) it was the fuel injectors. The mechanic(Mechanic guy A), the guy who was to do the actual job started thinking differently based on the codes that I ran and sent him. So, the first guy wanted to come back out, I told him no need. So, I hired someone else. This new guy(Tester and mechanic guy B) is the one that ran his test and concluded it was the switch/cylinder/possible TIPM(the cylinder and switch could be throwing the TIPM code or the TIPM could be bad).

 

[Dusty]

Oh okay, this is just a backup truck that I would like to get at least 3 more years out of. Not really wanting to restore it. And it doesn't appear to even be a fuel injector issue. The 2nd mechanic that I hired ran his diag test and said he's seeing that it's the key cylinder/switch and possibly the TIPM. So that's where we are now. Going to do the switch/cylinder replacement hoping that will fix the issue(then have someone to come in and program it to the truck), if that doesn't fix the issue then we'll look into replacing the TIPM.

The first time I called someone(Tester guy A) to come out and look at it tried a few things and said it would need a more thorough test, said he'd have another guy(Mechanic guy A) to come out. For some reason I don't think he(Tester guy A) was able to get any codes from the truck(2007 Ram 1500, so I went and bought a premium scanner and got codes). I guess based on what he(Tester guy A) concluded he then told the other guy(Mechanic guy A) it was the fuel injectors. The mechanic(Mechanic guy A), the guy who was to do the actual job started thinking differently based on the codes that I ran and sent him. So, the first guy wanted to come back out, I told him no need. So, I hired someone else. This new guy(Tester and mechanic guy B) is the one that ran his test and concluded it was the switch/cylinder/possible TIPM(the cylinder and switch could be throwing the TIPM code or the TIPM could be bad).

Just troubleshooting to DTCs (codes) is not a complete diagnostic in my opinion. Between those three components there are a number of electrical circuits (wiring paths) that could be the cause. A technicians diagnostic is not complete until he can confirm the actual problem. On a vehicle your age it is common (even likely) there is a broken circuit path. This requires a circuit diagram and old fashion connection-to-connection troubleshooting using a multimeter.

I know that on earlier generations of Rams the TIPM was a fairly common failure point. But I'd hate to see you spend $1000 dollars on a TIPM when the problem is something else like corrosion in a connector, a sliced wire, or a faulty relay. (Because this is a common area for issues, I know of cases where the TIPM was replaced by assumption and it did not resolve the issue.)

I'm not sure exactly what these folks are doing for you, but it sounds like one guy declares a possible area just by reading codes. It takes more than that to resolve an issue, especially electrical issues. They don't seem to have a total investment in returning your vehicle to proper operation like a professional shop you'd take it to.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 145371 miles.

 

[Marshall]

I have skim over some of these posts, Wondering in the back of my head, when you want to do it on the cheap,
how much was the scanner you bought. If you can't do any repairs yourself, why bother?
any good machinic will have one.
A multi meter will fix a lot of stuff.

BTW ,a good ear will give you a good idea on compression, but the actual way to do it is to take spark plugs out and stick in a compression tester / pressure gauge.
have the kid spin the starter for a few seconds and see what the pressure is, should be over 100-125 pounds and all cylinder should be close to the same. Hopefully.

I don't know on the 4.7 motor what the pressure spec is as I have never worked on one.

 

[cutman2000]

I haven't pulled out the tipm yet, but was wondering about the battery. So I took it to O'Reilly's and they said it was a bad battery. I took it to Autozone and they said it was good. ??

 

[Hagar1]

When an OEM part has a much higher price than aftermarket, there's a reason. Likewise, the parts cannon approach usually defeats the desire to spend as little as possible to successfully solve an issue.

You've received some very good advice here, but you're objective seems to be avoid a good diagnostic. A well-trained diagnostician with the proper diagnostic tool usually saves money and shaves time.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 145371 miles.

YUP!! We get what we pay for in things like O2 Sensors, Fuel Injectors and other electrical parts. I once put in a set of Amazon O2 sensors and THEN the trouble started. I was getting codes that were just unbelievable. Even got several "U" codes which a communication codes. Threw those sensors back to Amazon and no problems in that area since!

 

[cutman2000]

Just called Dodge, they're saying that the truck calls for an 850cca battery, mine is 650cca that is currently pushing 574cca. I'm going to go buy an 850cca battery to test/see.

 

[cutman2000]

Does the battery cca decrease in cold weather?

 

[cutman2000]

850cca battery, no change. Cranking no start.

 

[Hagar1]

Does the battery cca decrease in cold weather?

I'm not sure about today but years ago, batteries were rated at 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

[jws123]

I dont care to re read through all these pages again i see your still firing the parts cannon did you ever re check your compression? If your not able to do so yourself post a video of your truck turning over we can tell if it has any compression at all just by listening to it. Also yes CCA still goes down a bit in cold weather but in your case it wont make it not run your syaing it turns over fine.

 

[Marshall]

850cca battery, no change. Cranking no start.

On a new , good battery , 850, or 650 cca amps will not make any difference.
A battery will put out more current when it is warmer. Back on cold days Dad would take battery out and keep it in the inside porch , this would all be old 6 volt batteries.
If it's cranking over the motor good, then that is not your problem. you should ruin a charger on it if you are spinning the truck over without it starting, it will be going down.

If its cranking over ,why are you buying different batteries, not going to fix anything. Did you ever check if you have spark, or fuel pressure?

Did you ever get the ignition switch?

Back before all the computer stuff, we would just run a jumper wire from battery to the coil and see if we had spark, the fast way was put hand on the spark plug and hit the start button that we had also clipped to the battery and starter solenoid.
You could see if any gas was being pumped at the same time.
Best not to smoke at that time.