Lifter tick after cam and lifter replacement

[jcars91]

I've got a 2010 ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi. I had a lifter failure that destroyed one of the lobes on my camshaft and caused a misfire on cylinder 5. I have replaced the camshaft, lifters, oil pump, had the heads refreshed, and verified that none of the push rods were bent. That fixed the misfire but I still have a bad lifter tick. I have oil pressure and let the truck come up to temperature but the tick still remains. Im out of ideas on what the issue could, im open to any hunches on what it could be. Thanks everybody

 

[blabarre]

You checked the exhaust manifolds?


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[jcars91]

You checked the exhaust manifolds?


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Yeah replaced all the exhaust hardware, new gaskets, and torqued to spec.

 

[Burla]

Did it tick before the cam was wiped? Warm idle ticked before and after?

Ram Forum has done some testing on the lubrication end of this with impressive results, read here. 90% effective rate at helping tick, 2/3's of those killed the tick completely. Worth a shot with those numbers? To give you best chance pair that with a royal purple filter, and give it 500 miles, the science behind EP additives are that they take time to plate, when they plate the engine goes quiet.

Read this too, and read the machine shops conclusion.

This happens so much of the time here the %'s of hemi's that tick after a cam/lifter swap is large. If you know the rods are good, it is at a minimum possible redline 5w30 can smooth it out, if you live in snow state 0w30 redline is close to as good ar warm idle tick. It was to be high performance line.

 

[jcars91]

Did it tick before the cam was wiped? Warm idle ticked before and after?

Ram Forum has done some testing on the lubrication end of this with impressive results, read here. 90% effective rate at helping tick, 2/3's of those killed the tick completely. Worth a shot with those numbers? To give you best chance pair that with a royal purple filter, and give it 500 miles, the science behind EP additives are that they take time to plate, when they plate the engine goes quiet.

Read this too, and read the machine shops conclusion.

This happens so much of the time here the %'s of hemi's that tick after a cam/lifter swap is large. If you know the rods are good, it is at a minimum possible redline 5w30 can smooth it out, if you live in snow state 0w30 redline is close to as good ar warm idle tick. It was to be high performance line.

I had the tick before the cam replacement because of the lifter failure. I still have it after, it almost sounds like the lifter arent getting oil pressure.

I might get that stuff a try thanks for the suggestion

 

[U&A]

Add 1/2 quart if oil to your hemi. Its worked for a few


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[GsRAM]

Sorry to hear your having trouble with your repair. It happens sometimes despite our best efforts. Maybe add lubeguard, @Burla coined "poor man's redline"

Were the heads decked when you had the work done? If so that can alter pushrod geometry and length and cause valve train noise.

If you installed a new cam, lifters and timing chain and primed the oil system after all was done, then something wasn't done right or you got a bad part, which can happen.

How many miles are on this engine? Why did you put an oil pump in it? Did it have bad oil pressure before the cam went? How clean was the engine when you opened it up? Did you double check yourself when you installed the rocker arms and rotate the engine by hand afterwards and ensure all the rockers were adjusted properly with each cylinder at TDC?

I think I'd start there if I were you. Pull the plugs and valve covers, rotate the engine by hand and check for proper valve lash/rocker movement at TDC for each cylinder.

Find one too loose and you'll know where your problem is. I have a hard time believing that after replacing all those parts with new (you did use a good name brand or OEM correct? ) you'd have tick yet.

What did the lifter bores in the block look like? Did you check them real good?

Just my .02. Good luck.

 

[Wild one]

I had the tick before the cam replacement because of the lifter failure. I still have it after, it almost sounds like the lifter arent getting oil pressure.

I might get that stuff a try thanks for the suggestion

The pushrods are differant lengths for intake and exhaust,wonder if you have one or 2 of them mixed up,it's happened before.

 

[ChevySlayer69]

Yeah I highly doubt your problem Is a lack of the most expensive oil possible

 

[Wild one]

Yeah I highly doubt your problem Is a lack of the most expensive oil possible

Price out Tribolyene oil (sp??),it makes Redline look cheap,lol

 

[jws123]

Even with new lifters you will have a slight tick Upload a vid of your noise if you can.

 

[Burla]

Price out Tribolyene oil (sp??),it makes Redline look cheap,lol

Redline looks cheap when compared to other pao oils such as zf fluid. Nick sells is what royal purple sells for. But cost doesn't really have anything to do with it, some people don't want to believe 40 or so guys who have already tried it, most with the same result.

Like gsram said, try lubegard biotech, that is cheaper and has close to same results as redline as far as tick.

 

[seabrook]

Even with new lifters you will have a slight tick Upload a vid of your noise if you can.

i don’t my truck is silent. they changed the lifters in 16 wonder if you got the old style lifter

 

[Burla]

Even with new lifters you will have a slight tick Upload a vid of your noise if you can.

x2, but do it at warm idle and take audio from below engine.

 

[Gerald Sheppard]

Just my 2 cents here. I bought an 08 Ram 1500 Bighorn 4x4 with the 5.7 with 89k on it a couple years ago. On startup, would tick 2-3 times and stop. I have no clue what oil or mileage on the oil. I put in Amsoil 5-20 and a premium Purolater filter and not a single tick since. One of the local 4x4 places carries it, it is not cheap, a little under $10/ qt. Have run it since and change sooner than the 10k recommended interval, usually about 6k+. No additives at all. Not sure how this would work for anyone else. but my Hemi is super quiet.

 

[blackbetty14]

When you have a lifter fail and you wipe a lobe thats a ton of metal in the oil/engine. FCA mandates a full engine oil flush when doing the repair. Sounds like you didn't do the flush after a quick read through the original post. Metal could be in the oil passages and will come loose and clog a lifter or get on a bearing surface and wipe the engine out. It happens all the time when FCA does the repair as most dealers/shops just swap out the old parts for new but forget to the flush the engine out and you end up with a bad motor after 500 miles or so.

Other than that the Tick could be fixed with thicker oil. I had a 14 express with the 5.7 and it would tick on cold start just for 1 sec till the lifters pumped up on the factory oil. I swapped it out early for full synthetic but jumped to 5w30 and 2 qts of 10w30 and the cold start tick went away. Its what I have been running in my 18 Laramie since new and no tick. Mine was a lifter bleed down issue but if yours are noisy all the time thicker oil will help with any clearance issues you might have.

 

[cash4acres]

Pennzoil platinum plus premium oil from gas molecules. 10-60w.
Approved for mclaren bugatti ferrari lamborghini new Sting ray, most cars over $200k. Walmart $300 per 5gallons. I use it in my cummins. I get 23-33mpgs freeway. 2015 2500 4x4 quad cab 6spd camper shell 10,500lbs. Been really good Jewish truck since deleted. 87k to 300k. Still same turbo, trans & g56 factory organic 1 plate clutch package. Super smooth from start to 200 temperature oil. Bought it from a dealer that lost lease, job, contract, etc. Needed out of inventory. Bought 7 buckets $100 EACH. Oil stays clear to 5000k then darkens to 10k. I tried changing filter at 5k to see if oil stays clear, but no. Yup, 25-30mpgs normal freeway and clear oil 0-5000 miles

 

[demonram]

When you have a lifter fail and you wipe a lobe thats a ton of metal in the oil/engine. FCA mandates a full engine oil flush when doing the repair. Sounds like you didn't do the flush after a quick read through the original post. Metal could be in the oil passages and will come loose and clog a lifter or get on a bearing surface and wipe the engine out. It happens all the time when FCA does the repair as most dealers/shops just swap out the old parts for new but forget to the flush the engine out and you end up with a bad motor after 500 miles or so.

Other than that the Tick could be fixed with thicker oil. I had a 14 express with the 5.7 and it would tick on cold start just for 1 sec till the lifters pumped up on the factory oil. I swapped it out early for full synthetic but jumped to 5w30 and 2 qts of 10w30 and the cold start tick went away. Its what I have been running in my 18 Laramie since new and no tick. Mine was a lifter bleed down issue but if yours are noisy all the time thicker oil will help with any clearance issues you might have.

When I had the lifter failure, the mechanic who replaced the cam and lifters told me he flushed out the engine and added some kind of treatment to the oil and said to change the oil after about 2500 miles. Did that, plus switched to a 5W-30 full synthetic oil. 43,000 miles later, I don't have a tick on start up at all. Haven't tried Redline or any of the other oils recommended on here, just Pennzoil 5W-30 full synthetic.

 

[CYSTemrebel]

Sorry to hear your having trouble with your repair. It happens sometimes despite our best efforts. Maybe add lubeguard, @Burla coined "poor man's redline"

Were the heads decked when you had the work done? If so that can alter pushrod geometry and length and cause valve train noise.

If you installed a new cam, lifters and timing chain and primed the oil system after all was done, then something wasn't done right or you got a bad part, which can happen.

How many miles are on this engine? Why did you put an oil pump in it? Did it have bad oil pressure before the cam went? How clean was the engine when you opened it up? Did you double check yourself when you installed the rocker arms and rotate the engine by hand afterwards and ensure all the rockers were adjusted properly with each cylinder at TDC?

I think I'd start there if I were you. Pull the plugs and valve covers, rotate the engine by hand and check for proper valve lash/rocker movement at TDC for each cylinder.

Find one too loose and you'll know where your problem is. I have a hard time believing that after replacing all those parts with new (you did use a good name brand or OEM correct? ) you'd have tick yet.

What did the lifter bores in the block look like? Did you check them real good?

Just my .02. Good luck.

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- John 3:16


Rough as I am, I totally agree.

 

[jcars91]

Sorry for the late reply and I appreciate all the input. Here is a video of what it sounds like. Appears to be coming from around cylinder 3