Lifter tick after cam and lifter replacement

[jws123]

DO NOT!!! RUN IT ANYMORE lol it sounds to me like timing is off OR you didnt click one of the push rods in right or you installed them in the wrong spots take valve covers off and inspect something is really not right.

 

[Burla]

Sounds pretty rough, could be collapsed lifter or valve spring. I wouldn't do nothing, I'd pop the heads, we had someone do that last week and cam was still fine. If you aren't going to do that, I'd get redline 5w30 or 0w30 redline if in snow state and see if it smooths that out, it is the most successful tick killer on forum, but it isn't magic if the thing is broke. Did you run codes? No misfires? I think you need to be proactive on this one, everyday you aren't, your cam is wearing exponentially. Once you get mis fires, chances are nothing short of cam/lifter replacement will be needed.

 

[Burla]

Yeah I thought you were someone else, I just reviewed your OP, jws is spot on, I think it is a rod. Ignore last post. x2 don't run it unless you verify rods are good. How many miles have you driven it like that?

 

[JS4024]

Again with the snake “oil”.... oil no matter what brand will not, and cannot fix a mechanical issue. It will only silence it while more damage is being done! Do an oil analysis every other oil change and check for wear metals. If it starts going up, u have a problem. This prevented a friend from having to replace his cam..... the lifter was failing and all he needed was a new set of lifters.

 

[Burla]

Again with the snake “oil”....

You sound so sure... So tell me you are not the fella who says keep using an oil that makes your engine tick when the other oil makes it not tick? The votes are public, you see the members all respected ram forum members, and the results are below. 46 members redline killed their tick, 18 redline made their tick much better, and only 9 redline did not effect their hemi tick.

1. Yes, Redline killed my tick..
   46 vote(s)
   
   
2. 
   NO, Redline was NOT successful at killing my tick...
   9 vote(s)
   
   
3. 
   It helped partially to quiet hemi tick...
   18 vote(s)

If you need an expert to tell you are dead wrong, here ya go, might even want to call him and chat, they are pretty cool.

Snake oil refers to a product that does no benefit or worse masks the issue with something dangerous like chlorinated parrifins. When an oil has the best known base oils such as esters and pao base oils, and high EP and AW additives, it is the complete opposite of snake oil. Nearly 100 guys have dead silent hemi's with redline, we didn't do this poll till after we been doing this for 7 plus years, most of those guys are gone, but all recorded in syn thread. I find it odd that we still need to address these fake ass snake oil charges considering how many ram forum members who have been helped.

What is the purpose of that?

To force some poor ******* who believes you to live with hemi tick when he doesn't have too? Honestly I doubt there was any amount of evidence that can stop people like you, you will just throw shade regardless of the results. Sadly, there is no shortage of people like that around here. Maybe the over 80% of guys with quiet hemi's are simply lying, lol. Redline quiets more hemi's then actual lifter replacement. We have guys neatly 50% of the time still have tick after new lifters. The expert in the article is right, it isn't the lifters, it is the lubrication, and redline proved it because redline is the oil built the way that expert said would work. take the last word.

 

[Wild one]

Take a rubber hose if you don't have a stethascope,stick one end in your ear,and then the other open end run over both valve covers and the oil pan,you should be able to isolate the noise,almost sounds like a bottem end knock as in a bad rod or main bearing

 

[jws123]

If you don't find anything obvious when you pull valve cover you could of wiped out a cam bearing to when you installed the cam you didnt hammer it in did you? they can be stubborn.

 

[Burla]

Again with the snake “oil”.... oil no matter what brand will not, and cannot fix a mechanical issue. It will only silence it while more damage is being done! Do an oil analysis every other oil change and check for wear metals. If it starts going up, u have a problem. This prevented a friend from having to replace his cam..... the lifter was failing and all he needed was a new set of lifters.

Also assume that most everyone of us thought the same as you, but then the results happened. This is a new thing, not only brought on by changing of api oils but also engine designs where not enough oil hits critical components, so in that case extra additives solve the issue in a similar way high zinc fixes flat tappets that can fail with the use of low zinc oil. So hemi tick clearly is in this category.

Now, I do realize OP sounds like it could actually be a mechanical issue, but many other engines that sound like that are fixed, including mine now ten years quiet and it sounded just like that. just saying man.

 

[Burla]

Zinc fixes the issue below with the flat tappet, long been documented. Most lifter tick happens in the same area, but more related to the lifter cavity and perpendicular forces. So if low zinc oil causes flat tappets to fail, why is it we believe there is no issue with low zinc and the issues the hemi rollers have been having? Just because we have rollers, doesn't mean we cant benefit from the same thing that makes flat tappets move smoothly. Only modern oils have more tools in their toolbox then just zinc, because back in the day of the flat tappets- esters, pao, and/or moly and boron weren't mainstream or as mainstream as they are now. Enter modern era, well we have a lot more then just zinc to help our issues that are similar to the flat tappet issues. Our issue is the lifter cavity more so then just where the cam hits the lifter. We need additives that help allow the lifter to rise smoothly, just like what was needed with flat tappet.

 

[seabrook]

holy crap!!! something is bad wrong!!!!!!! t hurt to watch that video

 

[jcars91]

I haven't driven it at all like that, just ran it up to temperature.

I was very ginger when I put the new cam, felt like I was doing brain surgery lol no hammer needed.

The sound is definitely coming from the front half of the valve train on the driver side. Ill get the valve cover off this weekend and see what I can find. Im hoping for an unseated push rod.

 

[Burla]

I haven't driven it at all like that, just ran it up to temperature.

I was very ginger when I put the new cam, felt like I was doing brain surgery lol no hammer needed.

The sound is definitely coming from the front half of the valve train on the driver side. Ill get the valve cover off this weekend and see what I can find. Im hoping for an unseated push rod.

smart man

 

[GsRAM]

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16*For God so loved the world that he gave his one and only Son, that whoever believes in him shall not perish but have eternal life.
- John 3:16


Rough as I am, I totally agree.

That's the beauty of it brother. He loves all of us unconditionally, with all of our faults. Just as we are. God is good!

 

[terry littjohn]

just searching to fix my 2011 ram that lost the lobe on #5int! a local dodge mechanic told me that some after market cams are machined and require longer push rods! if the parts store you are ordering from wants a core charge on the new cam and your old one back, make sure it is the same lift!

 

[jws123]

mechanic told me that some after m

Just order a oem cam from rockauto and non mds lifters and be done with it tune out mds Unless your looking for more performance then thats a diff story some could require diff pushrods not sure id buy some sort of Kit if you are going that route.

 

[crackerjack1957]

just searching to fix my 2011 ram that lost the lobe on #5int! a local dodge mechanic told me that some after market cams are machined and require longer push rods! if the parts store you are ordering from wants a core charge on the new cam and your old one back, make sure it is the same lift!

He would be referring to small base circle cams which are used when stroking & there is a clearance issue.