Lower control arm bushing questions

[Bigskyroadglide]

When you put the core pieces in you'll feel the difference, those sway bar end links and that hollow pan hard bar flex alot, whereas the core pieces will be much stiffer.

 

[olyelr]

I was disappointed with Eibach. They included two zip ties with no explanation. I figured they had to go on the bottom of the rubber boot on the rear shocks. So it wouldn’t slip back up.

 

[HangmanNY]

That piece of paper was not included with my order. Another pet peeve I have is that so many companies expect us to go to their website to get instructions. ‍

 

[Adamcr68]

Busy day today. Right now it’s about 12 3/4 inch from the top of the wheel to the fender.

I have R20/275/60 tire. They’re shot.

I have the upper control arms on order along with the inner and outer tie rods. Everything else I have for the front end (Eibach Pro lift springs and struts, CORE 4x4 upper control arms, an new hubs/bearings.

I was disappointed with Eibach. They included two zip ties with no explanation. I figured they had to go on the bottom of the rubber boot on the rear shocks. So it wouldn’t slip back up.

I’m not saying the shock is upside down, pretty sure I’ve seen plenty of people mount them that way, is that your preference or the recommended install by the manufacturer?
The decal would have wondering if I had it upside down, curious on your reasoning.
I am sure your truck will handle much better with all your upgrades, I know mine did after I had similar work done.
You’ll also have pride that you did your own work, much respect by the way, I will definitely be following to see your thoughts when finish the suspenion.

 

[HangmanNY]

I’m not saying the shock is upside down, pretty sure I’ve seen plenty of people mount them that way, is that your preference or the recommended install by the manufacturer?
The decal would have wondering if I had it upside down, curious on your reasoning.
I am sure your truck will handle much better with all your upgrades, I know mine did after I had similar work done.
You’ll also have pride that you did your own work, much respect by the way, I will definitely be following to see your thoughts when finish the suspenion.

The new Eibach rear coil springs have a wider end and narrow end. So only one side will fit inside the rubber mount at the top. (The wider end).

And the narrower end only fits over the bottom mount area. They cannot be reversed.

The photo of the rear shocks: the bolts were only partially set. I waited to get the suspension on the ground before torquing to 100 ft./lbs.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

I’m not saying the shock is upside down, pretty sure I’ve seen plenty of people mount them that way, is that your preference or the recommended install by the manufacturer?
The decal would have wondering if I had it upside down, curious on your reasoning.
I am sure your truck will handle much better with all your upgrades, I know mine did after I had similar work done.
You’ll also have pride that you did your own work, much respect by the way, I will definitely be following to see your thoughts when finish the suspenion.

Based on my discussion with core, the johnny joint goes on the axle, not the frame. I would verify that with them.

On my lowered RCSB, that's what I was told. I didn't re ask on my 4x4

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Busy day today. Right now it’s about 12 3/4 inch from the top of the wheel to the fender.

I have R20/275/60 tire. They’re shot.

I have the upper control arms on order along with the inner and outer tie rods. Everything else I have for the front end (Eibach Pro lift springs and struts, CORE 4x4 upper control arms, an new hubs/bearings.

I was disappointed with Eibach. They included two zip ties with no explanation. I figured they had to go on the bottom of the rubber boot on the rear shocks. So it wouldn’t slip back up.

That 4th photo looks like the shock is upside down. I thought the name had to be right side up. I know it does on the bilstein but not certain about the eibach, maybe nick Nick@GotExhaust can comment.

 

[Adamcr68]

Based on my discussion with core, the johnny joint goes on the axle, not the frame. I would verify that with them.

On my lowered RCSB, that's what I was told. I didn't re ask on my 4x4

My control arms set up the same way, was wondering about the shock setup, I know there is members here who have forgotten more than I know about our trucks, one of the many reasons I enjoy this forum.
I know my control arms are installed correctly with the exact torque required, thanks to @Quick_Shifter.

 

[Adamcr68]

The new Eibach rear coil springs have a wider end and narrow end. So only one side will fit inside the rubber mount at the top. (The wider end).

And the narrower end only fits over the bottom mount area. They cannot be reversed.

The photo of the rear shocks: the bolts were only partially set. I waited to get the suspension on the ground before torquing to 100 ft./lbs.

I was only asking about the shocks direction, boot up versus down, I have seen it both ways.
Completely agree the only way to set final torques for suspenion, is with the truck on the ground.
My truck is a 15’, just 105k on mine, love seeing posts on our “older” trucks getting upgraded, yours looks like it is in excellent shape.
I imagine with all the work you’re doing you plan on driving it for a long time, I know mine is the last truck I’ll ever buy, will fix/replace things as needed.

 

[HangmanNY]

I was only asking about the shocks direction, boot up versus down, I have seen it both ways.
Completely agree the only way to set final torques for suspenion, is with the truck on the ground.
My truck is a 15’, just 105k on mine, love seeing posts on our “older” trucks getting upgraded, yours looks like it is in excellent shape.
I imagine with all the work you’re doing you plan on driving it for a long time, I know mine is the last truck I’ll ever buy, will fix/replace things as needed.

When I removed the original factory shocks the “hard plastic boot” was on the top. So naturally I assumed that the more flexible rubber boot on the Eibach shocks should be at the top. Am I wrong?

 

[Adamcr68]

When I removed the original factory shocks the “hard plastic boot” was on the top. So naturally I assumed that the more flexible rubber boot on the Eibach shocks should be at the top. Am I wrong?

I can’t say with any certainly, just seemed odd that the decal was upside down, might not be a “wrong” way.
I would check with the manufacture to see if there is recommended way to install or wait for a member with more experience/ knowledge than me, there are plenty, and I’m also 95% sure I’ve seen them both ways.
My memory is suspect at best.

 

[HangmanNY]

I’m going to reverse them. I looked at their website. They show it in the other directions in the photo for the pro lift kit.

The truck is sitting in the driveway and has not been driven. Waiting on more front end parts.

 

[HangmanNY]

I’ve been watching a few videos ON replacing most of the front end components. It seems that getting the lower control arm bolts out can be problematic. One video he had to cut them off.

Is it routine that most guys replace the bolts? I know these bolts are for alignment. Is there a good source for both control arms hardware kit?

I have the new CORE 4x4 upper control arms in the box. They didn’t come with hardware. Only an adjustment wrench.

Going to replace the front springs & struts (with Eibach Pro lift springs and struts), wheel hub/bearing kit, inner & outer tie rods, lower control arms, and upper control arms.

I plan on spraying all the bolts with PB Blaster the day before. That worked well on the rear bolts & nuts. I cleaned all of those up on the bench grinder wire wheel.

Once again, let me know if you fellas have a source for good quality hardware for the control arms?

Thanks!

 

[Daw14]

I’ve been watching a few videos ON replacing most of the front end components. It seems that getting the lower control arm bolts out can be problematic. One video he had to cut them off.

Is it routine that most guys replace the bolts? I know these bolts are for alignment. Is there a good source for both control arms hardware kit?

I have the new CORE 4x4 upper control arms in the box. They didn’t come with hardware. Only an adjustment wrench.

Going to replace the front springs & struts (with Eibach Pro lift springs and struts), wheel hub/bearing kit, inner & outer tie rods, lower control arms, and upper control arms.

I plan on spraying all the bolts with PB Blaster the day before. That worked well on the rear bolts & nuts. I cleaned all of those up on the bench grinder wire wheel.

Once again, let me know if you fellas have a source for good quality hardware for the control arms?

Thanks!

I think that where the truck had spent its life makes a difference.
If in the salt belt hardware gets destroyed , and often
it becomes one with the parts it attached.
I’m in south Florida and have worked on many cars that came from up north , it is like a different world .

These are rusted and very difficult to work with , with a car that spent its life in the south it can be twenty years older ,but still disassembles easily .

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

When I replaced my lower control arms on my lowered truck, my bolts came out easy with minimal effort.

Others have not been so lucky. Only source I know of for those bolts is ma mopar.

I'd recommend factory replacement if you have to cut them out. I hope that's not the out come.

 

[HangmanNY]

When I get to the front end, I’m gonna spray everything with PB blaster. Maybe two or three times over a two or three day time period. Hopefully they will come out.

I was looking at some of the lower control arm hardware online. I know you recommended Mopar. I see that Moog and Mevotech also make these bolt kits. Are they not as good?

 

[olyelr]

I think that where the truck had spent its life makes a difference.
If in the salt belt hardware gets destroyed , and often
it becomes one with the parts it attached.
I’m in south Florida and have worked on many cars that came from up north , it is like a different world .

These are rusted and very difficult to work with , with a car that spent its life in the south it can be twenty years older ,but still disassembles easily .

Yep, and thats a FACT!

We get about 10 years on a vehicle, if your lucky, up here before the undercarriage is shot. Its terrible.

I always get soooo jealous going down to florida or texas and seeing 20+ year old vehicles that dont have a lick of rust on them. Might be some peeling paint, but otherwise pristine!

 

[HangmanNY]

Speaking of rust:

I had a pair of Moog front stabilizer bushings. I removed the old bolts & brackets this morning. I cut the original bushings off. The brackets had a bit of rust on the inside and on the outside. Especially where the bolt head was. I could see there was rust on the stabilizer bar as well. I decided to remove it. It’s in the garage now.

This may sound like a dumb question. Have you removed the rust, primed and painted your front stabilizer bar? This one is heavy duty. I was going to hit the worst areas with a grinder and a flap disc sanding pad. The ends of the worst wearing connects to the end links. But there’s also rust where the bushings and the brackets were.

I cleaned up one of the brackets to remove the rust and any peeling paint. I haven’t done the other one yet. Have any of you guys painted these before?

 

[olyelr]

Speaking of rust:

I had a pair of Moog front stabilizer bushings. I removed the old bolts & brackets this morning. I cut the original bushings off. The brackets had a bit of rust on the inside and on the outside. Especially where the bolt head was. I could see there was rust on the stabilizer bar as well. I decided to remove it. It’s in the garage now.

This may sound like a dumb question. Have you removed the rust, primed and painted your front stabilizer bar? This one is heavy duty. I was going to hit the worst areas with a grinder and a flap disc sanding pad. The ends of the worst wearing connects to the end links. But there’s also rust where the bushings and the brackets were.

I cleaned up one of the brackets to remove the rust and any peeling paint. I haven’t done the other one yet. Have any of you guys painted these before?

Nothing wrong with cleaning up some rust man! Go for it!

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Yup, that front bar is becoming like a unicorn. Lots break then the search is on. Not many aftermarket, if any, and they are disco for certain years.

I'd clean it up and check for obvious damage.