OEM push button start kits

[chrisbh17]

Now that you're into it, do you know how easy/hard/impossible it would be to swap out the whole rear door wiring harness?

I like the ingenuity of DIY-ing the extra wires, but for $45 per door, I figured if I could avoid the work I would just buy the factory harnesses. Im just not sure if the leads in the gray connector would connect to the leads in the new door harness, or if I need to run something there too.

 

[Jimmy07]

Now that you're into it, do you know how easy/hard/impossible it would be to swap out the whole rear door wiring harness?

I like the ingenuity of DIY-ing the extra wires, but for $45 per door, I figured if I could avoid the work I would just buy the factory harnesses. Im just not sure if the leads in the gray connector would connect to the leads in the new door harness, or if I need to run something there too.

The factory harnesses in the doors look very easy to swap. The problem with trying to use all factory harnesses is the body harness. On a truck that came with keyless enter n go, the C2 connector and the C1 connector at the rf hub is part of the entire lower body harness that goes to all four door connectors and the CAN junction block. To replace that, everything would have to come out- seats, carpet, trim, door panels, etc. I don’t think mopar would just offer the C2 connector harness with terminals to insert into each door connector. So you’re looking at four door harnesses, two jumper harnesses in the front doors, and one entire body harness that would be a nightmare to swap. I know you want everything as factory as possible, but I think you’d be into factory harnesses for some big money. The way skuppy069 and I are doing is very simple and still use all factory circuits.

 

[chrisbh17]

The factory harnesses in the doors look very easy to swap. The problem with trying to use all factory harnesses is the body harness. On a truck that came with keyless enter n go, the C2 connector and the C1 connector at the rf hub is part of the entire lower body harness that goes to all four door connectors and the CAN junction block. To replace that, everything would have to come out- seats, carpet, trim, door panels, etc. I don’t think mopar would just offer the C2 connector harness with terminals to insert into each door connector. So you’re looking at four door harnesses, two jumper harnesses in the front doors, and one entire body harness that would be a nightmare to swap. I know you want everything as factory as possible, but I think you’d be into factory harnesses for some big money. The way skuppy069 and I are doing is very simple and still use all factory circuits.

I went to a parts site and looked up the body harnesses. If Im reading it correctly, there are 3 possible harnesses for a quad cab with Hemi. Only 1 of them does not work for "with GX4", GX4 being the Keyless Go sales code. That one harness part is also discontinued, but I would have to check for sure to see if that is NOT the one used in my truck.

My point being, as long as my truck has 1 of the other 2 harnesses, it is (supposedly) already setup for GX4. Which means I should technically be able to find C1 and C2 somewhere in the truck.

 

[Cillys]

I went to a parts site and looked up the body harnesses. If Im reading it correctly, there are 3 possible harnesses for a quad cab with Hemi. Only 1 of them does not work for "with GX4", GX4 being the Keyless Go sales code. That one harness part is also discontinued, but I would have to check for sure to see if that is NOT the one used in my truck.

My point being, as long as my truck has 1 of the other 2 harnesses, it is (supposedly) already setup for GX4. Which means I should technically be able to find C1 and C2 somewhere in the truck.

View attachment 152297

Look at them prices (fainting emoji)


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[chrisbh17]

No kidding! But I suppose if you are at the point where the main body harness needs to be replaced, the cost of the harness is probably not a concern

Does anyone know where the main body harness is labelled with a part number? Would be nice if I could just see it directly on my harness instead of having to tear off interior parts and follow wires.

 

[Cillys]

No kidding! But I suppose if you are at the point where the main body harness needs to be replaced, the cost of the harness is probably not a concern

Does anyone know where the main body harness is labelled with a part number? Would be nice if I could just see it directly on my harness instead of having to tear off interior parts and follow wires.

Hate to even imagine that


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[Jimmy07]

I went to a parts site and looked up the body harnesses. If Im reading it correctly, there are 3 possible harnesses for a quad cab with Hemi. Only 1 of them does not work for "with GX4", GX4 being the Keyless Go sales code. That one harness part is also discontinued, but I would have to check for sure to see if that is NOT the one used in my truck.

My point being, as long as my truck has 1 of the other 2 harnesses, it is (supposedly) already setup for GX4. Which means I should technically be able to find C1 and C2 somewhere in the truck.

View attachment 152297

The easiest and quickest way to see if you have the C2 connector somewhere is to pull the lower half of the B-pillar panel next to your driver seat off. Unplug the door connector and see if you have a gray wire in position 5 and a gray/brown wire in position 15. Those are the wires for the rear driver door antenna, and if they’re not there, then you wouldn’t have the C2 connector.

 

[Cillys]

The easiest and quickest way to see if you have the C2 connector somewhere is to pull the lower half of the B-pillar panel next to your driver seat off. Unplug the door connector and see if you have a gray wire in position 5 and a gray/brown wire in position 15. Those are the wires for the rear driver door antenna, and if they’re not there, then you wouldn’t have the C2 connector.

That's easy. Holy cows


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[chrisbh17]

The easiest and quickest way to see if you have the C2 connector somewhere is to pull the lower half of the B-pillar panel next to your driver seat off. Unplug the door connector and see if you have a gray wire in position 5 and a gray/brown wire in position 15. Those are the wires for the rear driver door antenna, and if they’re not there, then you wouldn’t have the C2 connector.

Sounds like a plan. I might be off from work tomorrow so hopefully I can check it then.

BTW the harness that is discontinued is only for trucks with air suspension, so Im pretty confident I *do* have the required body harness already, because I *don't* have air suspension.

 

[fearroyo]

I like where this is going. Trying to keep up with everything so I can tackle this project shortly. A couple of questions...
If my 2017 Big Horn already has OE remote start, would it already have door antennas? If so, are they different than the ones needed for proximity?

EDIT: I also have the power sliding rear glass. I saw a comment that would potentially mean I would not need extra wiring harnesses?

 

[skuppy069]

So today I tried replacing my hub with alpha and kept giving error about secret key method or something like that.
Put old hub in and ignition switch and drove to my local dealer .
The service manager there is really good .He has bailed me out a few times when i corrupted my truck with AE a few times
Not sure what most dealers would charge but the service manager did it for free for me .
I will be bringing them some coffee and donuts this week to say thanks
So the new hub is suppose to get the code from the pcm automatically he said .
With alpha you can’t replace hub unless there are keys programmed to it .
So there is something in alpha that needs to be fixed or explained as too get the procedure done .

So we continued on with his mopar service tool and got the hub and keys programmed in 10 mins .
Cleared all dts as the abs thru some codes etc
.
Spoke with jimmy 07 ahead of time and he had suggested these points be turned on .
I added the passive entry to set
Fobik Safe enable and passive entry
Csm .Thanks jimmy for the info !

The system is working now .
Will buy door handles next month .
Hopefully the alpha developer can get this figured etc .
Then no dealer intervention is needed .
Here is some pics

 

[skuppy069]

All my parts to date are about 550 Canadian so far .
Dealer gives me a good break on parts so would have been closer to 675
Just need handles then done .

 

[Cillys]

So today I tried replacing my hub with alpha and kept giving error about secret key method or something like that.
Put old hub in and ignition switch and drove to my local dealer .
The service manager there is really good .He has bailed me out a few times when i corrupted my truck with AE a few times
Not sure what most dealers would charge but the service manager did it for free for me .
I will be bringing them some coffee and donuts this week to say thanks
So the new hub is suppose to get the code from the pcm automatically he said .
With alpha you can’t replace hub unless there are keys programmed to it .
So there is something in alpha that needs to be fixed or explained as too get the procedure done .

So we continued on with his mopar service tool and got the hub and keys programmed in 10 mins .
Cleared all dts as the abs thru some codes etc
.
Spoke with jimmy 07 ahead of time and he had suggested these points be turned on .
I added the passive entry to set
Fobik Safe enable and passive entry
Csm .Thanks jimmy for the info !

The system is working now .
Will buy door handles next month .
Hopefully the alpha developer can get this figured etc .
Then no dealer intervention is needed .
Here is some pics

View attachment 152357

View attachment 152358

Ok so if the rfhub had those keys programmed with it already then Alfa would've worked ...

Next thing so you pulled truck into engine bay... replaced rfhub then what all exactly ... so when I gotta do this I can make sure it's done right and not getting overcharge for bs



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[skuppy069]

Ok so if the rfhub had those keys programmed with it already then Alfa would've worked .

Next thing so you pulled truck into engine bay... replaced rfhub then what all exactly ... so when I gotta do this I can make sure it's done right and not getting overcharge for bs



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Yes if the hub some how had the keys programmed to it yes then it would work .
I called up the service manager ahead of time and explained what was going on and he said come on over and we will get it done quick .
I added the codes above prior to going there . I had all my antennas in place and plugged in ahead of time as well
Basically I pulled up in the service bay disconnected negative on battery .
Changed out switch to push button .plugged in my harness I made and the vehicle harness to c1 of the hub .Put negative terminal back and he came over and did his thing with his Service tool pod.
Took a whole 15 mins on my end and 15 mins on his end .

 

[Cillys]

Yes if the hub some how had the keys programmed to it yes then it would work .
I called up the service manager ahead of time and explained what was going on and he said come on over and we will get it done quick .
I added the codes above prior to going there . I had all my antennas in place and plugged in ahead of time as well
Basically I pulled up in the service bay disconnected negative on battery .
Changed out switch to push button .plugged in my harness I made and the vehicle harness to c1 of the hub .Put negative terminal back and he came over and did his thing with his Service tool pod.
Took a whole 15 mins on my end and 15 mins on his end .

What's the part# for the push button parts? and you had to replace your fobtik rfhub with the keyless n go rfhub? did you need to replace the win module too


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[chrisbh17]

I havent gone through the whole process, but the first thing Alfa asks for when programming Fobiks is the PIN. Since that is step 1 in replacing the RF Hub, Im wondering if we just dont have the correct default PIN for a brand new RF hub?

@skuppy069 Where did the RF hub replace process fail? Were you able to program the Fobiks into the new hub? Or did you just never have the correct PIN to start the process?

The service manual says programming Fobiks is definitely the first step, so there has to be some default PIN to use when doing that. Im not 100% sure it gets the PIN from the BCM on startup.

 

[Cillys]

Yes if the hub some how had the keys programmed to it yes then it would work .
I called up the service manager ahead of time and explained what was going on and he said come on over and we will get it done quick .
I added the codes above prior to going there . I had all my antennas in place and plugged in ahead of time as well
Basically I pulled up in the service bay disconnected negative on battery .
Changed out switch to push button .plugged in my harness I made and the vehicle harness to c1 of the hub .Put negative terminal back and he came over and did his thing with his Service tool pod.
Took a whole 15 mins on my end and 15 mins on his end .

What's the part# for the push button parts? and you had to replace your fobtik rfhub with the keyless n go rfhub? did you need to replace the win module too


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[chrisbh17]

I wonder if this is why the RF hub replace does not work:

https://www.aetools.us/blog/chryslerallkeyslost/

You are essentially in an "all keys lost" situation, because there are no keys programmed to the RF hub.

And Im pretty sure I will never have a good enough relationship with any dealer for them to do this for free, or even let me show up, swap hubs and then have them do it even if I pay them.

 

[Jimmy07]

I wonder if this is why the RF hub replace does not work:

https://www.aetools.us/blog/chryslerallkeyslost/

You are essentially in an "all keys lost" situation, because there are no keys programmed to the RF hub.

And Im pretty sure I will never have a good enough relationship with any dealer for them to do this for free, or even let me show up, swap hubs and then have them do it even if I pay them.

All keys lost is a different situation. I bought a cheap fob from amazon just to try this situation with the alfa. I left my working fobs in a spot where the truck couldn’t pick them up (out of range for remote start and door unlock), then took the unprogrammed fob to the truck. Alfa programmed it no problem with my PIN. The rolling PIN serves the exact same function as the PIN we are given. It’s just a temporary PIN that tech authority issues to non owners (locksmiths) so they can’t keep them on file.
As far as having the dealer do this, they will treat this just like those with pre 2017 rams that install the factory remote start. Everything will be in place except for the old hub will need to be connected until you get to the dealer. Leave the lower panel under the steering wheel off, swap the ignition switch when you get there, and they’ll do the fob and hub replace. The most they would charge is one hour labor.

 

[chrisbh17]

All keys lost is a different situation. I bought a cheap fob from amazon just to try this situation with the alfa. I left my working fobs in a spot where the truck couldn’t pick them up (out of range for remote start and door unlock), then took the unprogrammed fob to the truck. Alfa programmed it no problem with my PIN. The rolling PIN serves the exact same function as the PIN we are given. It’s just a temporary PIN that tech authority issues to non owners (locksmiths) so they can’t keep them on file.
As far as having the dealer do this, they will treat this just like those with pre 2017 rams that install the factory remote start. Everything will be in place except for the old hub will need to be connected until you get to the dealer. Leave the lower panel under the steering wheel off, swap the ignition switch when you get there, and they’ll do the fob and hub replace. The most they would charge is one hour labor.

So I should leave everything as-is (original RF hub, original tip start switch, original fobs), drive to dealer and install the new hub, new switch and have them do the programming?

Can they do this in the parking lot? Since I cant move the truck once the new ignition switch and hub are installed. Not sure they really want me working in their shop.