Synthetic Oil

[yillbs]

Where is everyone today ?

Synthetic oils are for morons.... better?

 

[Ramnewbie]

I'm just sitting here rating a burrito.

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[U&A]

Where is everyone today ?

Drinking beer

 

[AFMoulton]

Out of beer, too drunk to get more.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[69GWC]

Out of beer, too drunk to get more.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

Well do better next time and buy more beer before you start drinking.. lol

 

[R.L.K.]

LOL ^^^^^[emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji108]

I'm just watching TV with the wife ...

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[AFMoulton]

Well do better next time and buy more beer before you start drinking.. lol

I thought a 30 rack would do, boy was I wrong!


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[U&A]

If it comes in a 30 pack its not worth going out and getting more of it. Try some local brews.

 

[AFMoulton]

I like local brews but sitting around working on cars, cheap beer is better for me.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[huntergreen]

I,'ll stick with bud.

 

[BlkZrx]

Wonder if my 6.4 would like this?

 

[chrisbh17]

Wonder if my 6.4 would like this?

View attachment 135467

Dont let the brand name fool you...a lot of LiquiMoly's oils are low in....wait for it....moly.

 

[Hemi395]

Interested to see a voa of that....

 

[Burla]

So we have posted about that oil before, as I remember I was pretty excited about it in oil terms, but availability is an issue. So the difference is it's the next generation of liqui moly and they call it moly gen, and last I remember it has been a while, the science is solid. Could be a player on hemi tick, dunno.

So the difference between the euro products, and yes that is a euro type product made in Germany, and the US made stuff, is the euro's like low viscosity and the US likes high viscosity. I'm not going to explain why because it's common sense with the way they build engines versus they way we used to build engines. So this product 5w40 might be more of what Ram wants in their engines as it is a low viscosity 40 weight oil. The real key would be does it have a good success rate with hemi tick, and we would need a couple people to try it to find out. BTW, the new US stuff likes the low visc as well, so oils like Redline are dinosaurs.

I believe it is a super moly dose product and the first time liqui moly used oil soluble moly in their offerings that I know of= next gen.

 

[BlkZrx]

I have been on M1 since new. No tick problem but my hearings not great. Wife can hear pin drop at 50 meters. Asked whether she heard anything, she replies no. $8 a quart on Amazon in 5 ltr jug.

I'm doing a little research. Oh, it's also bright green..

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[U&A]

There are some companies that charge PAO/Ester prices for group 3, but not many..... i dont think i need to tell you the name of the first company that comes to mind.

The past gen of liqui moly was a group 3. Do we think that may have changed now?

 

[SyN]

Morning Gents: I apologize for changing the subject once again.

With only 2300 miles on the JUDGE & 4Qts of RL gear oil sitting in the garage cabinet: My OCD is kicking in to drain & refill the 11.5AAM this weakened.

I keep telling my OCD to stay the **** out of my head until the 10K mile mark in which I figure most or all of the break-in wear metals will be finished & a perfect time for a drain (in order too remove them).

Some might understand this!
Most wont!

For those that do: What are your thoughts?

Is 10K miles still to early?

I figured with my initial 500-600 mile towing adventure with the 10K-11Klb enclosed trailer these break-in metals would be pretty much been done by now.
I’m not a rearend/gear guy so I have no idea.

 

[U&A]

Morning Gents: I apologize for changing the subject once again.

With only 2300 miles on the JUDGE & 4Qts of RL gear oil sitting in the garage cabinet: My OCD is kicking in to drain & refill the 11.5AAM this weakened.

I keep telling my OCD to stay the **** out of my head until the 10K mile mark in which I figure most or all of the break-in wear metals will be finished & a perfect time for drain in order remove them.

Some might understand this!
Most wont!

For those that do: What are your thoughts?

Im with ya,

Its hard to not do it first thing but if you plan on keeping the same gears (not re-gearing) I would run to 10,000 miles as you said and then put the redline in.

......Says the guy (me) that did a Redline transmission flush way early at 10,000 miles

 

[SyN]

U&A: Oh I have already bought a pump to suck out the FF ATF from my 68RFE @ the 10-15K mile mark & refill with either RL C+ or Schaeffers All-Trans.

Hopefully maybe by the 10K mile mark: Money is easier to come by or stocked up and I can afford a new cover for the rear end as well as a new aluminum transmission pan.

Please keep the opinions and thoughts coming I will listen and reason with all of them.

Might take me two or three years to accumulate 10,000 miles so.
Money will be a lot more available when the daughter graduates PT school.

 

[Hemi395]

I'm the same way so I'm probably not the best person to give you advice, but what I would do is get some M1 or Valvoline synthetic gear oil and put that in until you hit 10k. That way you're getting the initial wear metals out and the remaining 7k will help be able to do the final break in process with clean gear oil. Then put the RL in.

JMO but if I had it to do over again that's what I would do.