Truck Dies while coasting

[tscarber]

I have a 2013 Ram 1500 5.7, After a full motor rebuild the truck is now dying when coasting. No codes, No warnings. I took the truck to be tuned after a Texas-Speed & Performance MDS delete kit. I have worked all of the bugs out besides this. All components and sensors have been replaced.

It was dying before the tune, there are no sounds or misfires. No engine codes and everything is plugged in correctly. I will be taking it back to the tuner for a few more tweaks on the throttle and shifting.

 

[06 Dodge]

Does it start right back up or does it need to sit for a while before it will start? If it has to sit awhile before it will restart it would remind me of a remanded 302 that did that to me, the cause was Rod & Main bearings got wiped do to lack of oil.

 

[tscarber]

Does it start right back up or does it need to sit for a while before it will start? If it has to sit awhile before it will restart it would remind me of a remanded 302 that did that to me,the cause was Rod or Main bearings got wiped do to lack of oil.

Starts right back up with no issue and drives. Only dies every 3rd or 4th stop

 

[Jeepwalker]

Does it just 'die' ..or does it stumble a bit first? I guess I would probably defer back to the speed shop if they recently did the work to it. Normally if a truck just 'dies' on idle, I would start by looking at the throttle body bore/blades for build-up, the MAF, or get a vacuum measurement. Four easy things worth looking at (or at least rule out):

Snorkel boot: Remove the rubber snorkel boot at your throttle body, make sure the rubber boot didn't accidentally get folded under the clamp, when they installed it last. I've seen where that can/does happen ...under the clamp. It's an easy mistake ..or goof, to make. I've caught myself 'almost' doing it too. If it's not a perfect seal under the clamp, a little air sneaks in that the MAF hasn't measured, and throws off the computer's air/fuel reading. Also ensure the rubber snorkel/boot isn't cracked anywhere either and any hoses/fittings are securely in place and seal well.

Throttle Body Bore: Just make sure it's clean and the bore (and blade) aren't covered with carbon or fuel build-up. Even a little build-up can cause engine the engine to die at idle. You'd think someone would have inspected it upon the engine work, but it just takes a second to open the blade and look in there. If it is, clean with a soft solvent-safe plastic brush and some throttle-body cleaner. Also inspect the TB gasket and tightness too.

MAF: If you have a scanner, read the MAF sensor reading. Is the reading where it should be? Or on the low end of 'good'? I've personally had it where the MAF sensor was *just* barely 'good'. Sometimes cleaning helps, sometimes they need replacing. Since yours is a 2013, who knows? To test, you could unplug the MAF and drive it around (it'll set a code ..but this is just an experiement), and see if it continues to die, or doesn't. If it doesn't you may have found the culprit.

Engine Temp Sensor: Wouldn't hurt to observe the temp sensors too, given that it's getting colder out. Observe that the temp matches ambient before starting the truck, and again as the engine warms up. Given that we're going into colder weather, if it has drifted, the computer might 'think' it's the wrong temp and be delivering an errant air/fuel ratio.

Bonus Item - Misfire counts: Hook up a scanner and see what the misfire counts are. Could have a faulty coil pack/plug, or valve issue. Yeah, brand new plugs can fail too ..or even be no-good out of the box (had it happen a couple times).

 

[tscarber]

Does it just 'die' ..or does it stumble a bit first? I guess I would probably defer back to the speed shop if they recently did the work to it. Normally if a truck just 'dies' on idle, I would start by looking at the throttle body bore/blades for build-up, the MAF, or get a vacuum measurement. Four easy things worth looking at (or at least rule out):

Snorkel boot: Remove the rubber snorkel boot at your throttle body, make sure the rubber boot didn't accidentally get folded under the clamp, when they installed it last. I've seen where that can/does happen ...under the clamp. It's an easy mistake ..or goof, to make. I've caught myself 'almost' doing it too. If it's not a perfect seal under the clamp, a little air sneaks in that the MAF hasn't measured, and throws off the computer's air/fuel reading. Also ensure the rubber snorkel/boot isn't cracked anywhere either and any hoses/fittings are securely in place and seal well.

Throttle Body Bore: Just make sure it's clean and the bore (and blade) aren't covered with carbon or fuel build-up. Even a little build-up can cause engine the engine to die at idle. You'd think someone would have inspected it upon the engine work, but it just takes a second to open the blade and look in there. If it is, clean with a soft solvent-safe plastic brush and some throttle-body cleaner. Also inspect the TB gasket and tightness too.

MAF: If you have a scanner, read the MAF sensor reading. Is the reading where it should be? Or on the low end of 'good'? I've personally had it where the MAF sensor was *just* barely 'good'. Sometimes cleaning helps, sometimes they need replacing. Since yours is a 2013, who knows? To test, you could unplug the MAF and drive it around (it'll set a code ..but this is just an experiement), and see if it continues to die, or doesn't. If it doesn't you may have found the culprit.

Engine Temp Sensor: Wouldn't hurt to observe the temp sensors too, given that it's getting colder out. Observe that the temp matches ambient before starting the truck, and again as the engine warms up. Given that we're going into colder weather, if it has drifted, the computer might 'think' it's the wrong temp and be delivering an errant air/fuel ratio.

Bonus Item - Misfire counts: Hook up a scanner and see what the misfire counts are. Could have a faulty coil pack/plug, or valve issue. Yeah, brand new plugs can fail too ..or even be no-good out of the box (had it happen a couple times).

The truck idles and drives perfect up until at random stops it dies with no warning. I have done all of the work myself besides the tune. i am going to check all of my grounds as well, someone told me older chevys would do this when not grounded properly. All of this info is a great start. I will get to it this weekend. Thank you so much

 

[tscarber]

Does it just 'die' ..or does it stumble a bit first? I guess I would probably defer back to the speed shop if they recently did the work to it. Normally if a truck just 'dies' on idle, I would start by looking at the throttle body bore/blades for build-up, the MAF, or get a vacuum measurement. Four easy things worth looking at (or at least rule out):

Snorkel boot: Remove the rubber snorkel boot at your throttle body, make sure the rubber boot didn't accidentally get folded under the clamp, when they installed it last. I've seen where that can/does happen ...under the clamp. It's an easy mistake ..or goof, to make. I've caught myself 'almost' doing it too. If it's not a perfect seal under the clamp, a little air sneaks in that the MAF hasn't measured, and throws off the computer's air/fuel reading. Also ensure the rubber snorkel/boot isn't cracked anywhere either and any hoses/fittings are securely in place and seal well.

Throttle Body Bore: Just make sure it's clean and the bore (and blade) aren't covered with carbon or fuel build-up. Even a little build-up can cause engine the engine to die at idle. You'd think someone would have inspected it upon the engine work, but it just takes a second to open the blade and look in there. If it is, clean with a soft solvent-safe plastic brush and some throttle-body cleaner. Also inspect the TB gasket and tightness too.

MAF: If you have a scanner, read the MAF sensor reading. Is the reading where it should be? Or on the low end of 'good'? I've personally had it where the MAF sensor was *just* barely 'good'. Sometimes cleaning helps, sometimes they need replacing. Since yours is a 2013, who knows? To test, you could unplug the MAF and drive it around (it'll set a code ..but this is just an experiement), and see if it continues to die, or doesn't. If it doesn't you may have found the culprit.

Engine Temp Sensor: Wouldn't hurt to observe the temp sensors too, given that it's getting colder out. Observe that the temp matches ambient before starting the truck, and again as the engine warms up. Given that we're going into colder weather, if it has drifted, the computer might 'think' it's the wrong temp and be delivering an errant air/fuel ratio.

Bonus Item - Misfire counts: Hook up a scanner and see what the misfire counts are. Could have a faulty coil pack/plug, or valve issue. Yeah, brand new plugs can fail too ..or even be no-good out of the box (had it happen a couple times).

After some time working on the truck. I have now got it tuned and worked out some electrical bugs having to do with a dead cell in the battery that i realized is 5 years old. She runs and drives smoothly. I am needing the tune adjusted just a hair due to sensitive throttle and shifting is not to my liking. I have had a P000B code only once and it has never returned. I read on my live data during the test drive that my exhaust degree target is 120 and it runs about 115 constantly. Is this a problem?

 

[14HEMIBlewup]

Have you found/fixed your issue? I replaced my 2014 6.4 L with a 2016 model and ever since it will randomly die, even at 30mph! It seems to only do it if your foot is on the break. The idle will jump up and down but will not die unless your foot is on the break..??