Upgrade Alpine sub & speakers

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Midnight Storm

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I just pulled the trigger on some Fosgate prime 1” tweeters from amazon. Crurchfield has them listed as “fits ram 1500 alpine system headliner speakers with modification”
For $30 it’s worth a shot and reviews are good
 

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TomT

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I’d be tempted to try some Audiofrog GB25s up there if they would fit.
 

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@$399 for 2.5 in they better sound as if I'm in the recording studio.
Would definitely have to hear them before I purchase.

I’d be tempted to try some Audiofrog GB25s up there if they would fit.
 

TomT

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@$399 for 2.5 in they better sound as if I'm in the recording studio.
Would definitely have to hear them before I purchase.

The GB series are amazingly good speakers. Whether or not they would make a huge difference in this case, who knows.

A great three way would be the GB60, GB25, and GB10. You definitely get what you pay for.
 
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No can do on the $400. Respect if you pull it off!

Hear me out on this... what if I plug in and hold my spare jbl 3.5 dash speaker up there and if it adds as much as they do it the dash, modify the hole to fit them?
 

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No can do on the $400. Respect if you pull it off!

Hear me out on this... what if I plug in and hold my spare jbl 3.5 dash speaker up there and if it adds as much as they do it the dash, modify the hole to fit them?
Don't think it's large enough space. Once you remove the cover, you will get better idea of space to work with. I read somewhere that the headliner speakers were 2.5 ohm, not sure how correct that is, but thinking they may be regulated by Amp to put out less power, just seems odd they are much quieter than rest. Kind of like the center speaker has more output than the side dash speakers. I am in dire need of finishing up the sound deadening, can hear the metal hollow sound when bass hits certain notes. Been busy with wife's car replacing some things, brake switch etc and haven't had time. Plus in few weeks going camping for 8 days in Oregon River rafting. Since adding the Soundqubed Amp, really like the sound now, minus need for sound deadening. Those 3.5 jbl gto 329 3.5s are a great deal now 39.00 on Amazon, are 3ohm, 92 sensitivity, better carbon material and silk tweeter(compared to the Gx302 2.3ohm, textile tweeter and poly come and think 88db sensitivity) sound might be slightly smoother with the gto 329, has slightly better freq response too, but I am happy enough now, no need to spend money trying new speakers and having to cut dash holes to fit. Now the jbl Gto 20m might be great in the headliner, 2.0 inch, 2.5 ohm(jbl site says 2ohm, Crutchfield says 2.5 ohm) , but only way I would try is if I found a open box item for cheap, they cost around $110 now.
 
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22B18D98-ED24-4B7F-AE5E-8A7936492CEB.jpeg I’m down to the wire. Literally!

I got the fold flat and the stock sub removed and this sucker fits like a glove! I don’t think the seats need to be raised as they sit on top of this box nicely and I have an alpine grill to put on after. I have a mobile installer coming over this afternoon and he will get it in and tuned up.

I’m nervous as I went for the net audio p&p harness instead of the AMP PRO. I will finding out soon enough if it does the job well enough for me. If not, I’ll but the AMP PRO and another amp for the mids.
 
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I’m very happy with the outcome!

I am not going to crank it too much to really test it out, until the sub has broken in for a while.

I will say the connection cup for that Atrend box does rattle like hell (as reviews have said) which is a quick fix with silicon. That should be nice and dry in the morning. Still that box was heck of a deal for $75 Canadian off amazon.

So I guess that besides the attempt to get some treble in the headliner, alpine rux2 sub knob install and some more sound deadening, this case is closed.

Thanks a lot to all who posted to this thread, especially @rotwiler @TomT snd @Tim Garceau for the early planning.

What I used was:

Alpine MRV 500 mono amp

Alpine s dual 4ohm 10” sub

Atrend single 10” sealed MDF box

Net Audio plug and play harness

Infinity reference and JBL 3.5 dash

Infinity reference 3 way 6x9 in the rear doors

A positive attitude
 
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Sooooo.... the alpine S sub is vented on the bottom and my shallow box wasn’t doing a good job of getting air under it.

So I returned the alpine, spent quite a bit more and got a JL 10w3v3. It’s the ticked. Awesome sub!!! Also got my rux.2 bass knob. Now I can break in the sub with some good volume still on the other speakers.
 

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You could’ve also shimmed the sub up, typically you need at least half the pole diameter of clearance but then you may have been into the seat when down.

The w3 is a solid all around mid budget woofer, no break-in necessary so dial in the gains and let it rip.
 
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You could’ve also shimmed the sub up, typically you need at least half the pole diameter of clearance but then you may have been into the seat when down.

The w3 is a solid all around mid budget woofer, no break-in necessary so dial in the gains and let it rip.
I bought a 1/2” spacer for the alpine but it still vibrated badly!
The jl was what the doctor ordered.

I got the alpine bass knob temporarily installed (but pretty good still, ran it under the sill plates etc). It sure is great for bass adjustments.

The break in period varies so much person to person from 0 days to a month and everything in between. It’s one of those things that everyone has their own opinion on. I do think it will “break in” over time and the spiders will loosen up and stretch out but I don’t think a particular program makes that happen any better than just using them.

The jl hits better lows and is a cleaner sound. It’s a single 4ohm as opposed to the dual 4ohm alpine running on 2ohm.

Th net audio harness is doing a great job for $80
 
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I’m very proud of myself. I went out of my comfort zone. I took the console apart, which was quite simple actually, (just a bolt and 2 screws). I ran the wires under the door kick plates (just tucked the wire under them in place), then drilled a hole in the panel as seen in a couple of other threads.

I’m not sure if the kicker guys had the problem as I did with the threads on the bass knob not being long enough to get the washer and nut on, but I can tell you the alpine rux.2 it can’t be done! I ended up using my favourite crazy glue called 2P10 to fasten the body of the knob to the inside of the panel after I used a sharp chisel to smooth out the little ridges. It’s not going anywhere now.

Anyways, the bass knob looks sleek now and works great! I’m 1 step closer to reaching my audio goals. This stereo upgrade is one of my favourite mods that I’ve done.
90715A2F-5DA8-4CDA-8931-1C762D37646F.jpeg
 

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Back to the headliner speakers... is there a way to wire 2 tweeters @ 4ohms per side to make 2ohms?
Are you thinking of running front and headliner tweeters together on the same amp channel? I wouldn’t do it as you’ll almost definitely want the ability to set their levels separately. Two real tweeters (not the factory Alpine crap) that close to my head would make me wish for a quick death.
 
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Are you thinking of running front and headliner tweeters together on the same amp channel? I wouldn’t do it as you’ll almost definitely want the ability to set their levels separately. Two real tweeters (not the factory Alpine crap) that close to my head would make me wish for a quick death.
Just brainstorming. But... point taken! Lol

Ill try the 4ohm Fosgates I ordered, but I’ll likely end up with 3ohm jbl club or the more expensive 3ohm infinity 375’s
 

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So I ask with an open mind as this questions is perhaps directed to the Audiophile engineers. Not so much as sound opinion on my part

I understand the OEM Alpine upgrade amp is requesting 2ohm speakers per connection. So, what would be the better solution for just the corners in the dash.

4ohm 40 w RMS (80 peak ) @ 72.5 dB tweeter in parallel with a 4ohm 20w RMS (40w peak) @ 85 dB mid for a 2ohm end

Or

3ohm 25w RMS (75w peak) @ 91 dB

Note: the Roof are now 2.5ohm mids but all other impedance is the same
 
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The infinity reference or jBL 3.5’s are a great upgrade up front.
The true audiophiles won’t be running off the stock head unit so the ohm speaker ohms would match up to that of their aftermarket amps.
 

Shane A Rivet

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i do see your point. i have been reading the threats, 100's of pages of them. talking what speakers sound the best and your right about the infinity. i guess my question was more related to the math and overall db.
 
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