2015 ram 1500 Lifter failure… dreaded

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Barr2255

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As far as lubrication galleys go I disagree (I assume you mean the galleys in the head?) the jackets in the block are plenty adequate. With that said sure the head galleys could be hogged out and it wouldn’t hurt anything but again real world application… The lifters on my truck were coated with adequate oil, sure the front lifters were less than the rears upon tear down but like you and many others have mentioned the cam in this motor relies on crank splash the most. Me personally I think the cam was positioned to high in the block and with the natural position the motor leans towards the cab causing the back lifters to be completely saturated and those front lifters to be lightly coated. But it’s an internal battle with my own judgment as an engineer because the majority of hemi motors don’t have these failures. This makes me believe the cam itself is possibly to blame. Especially after seeing a couple other lifters in my motor with weird scoring marks. I think the cam itself is wearing and causing lifter failure, MDS lifters may seem prominent due to “pumping up” and slamming the cam as it turns on and off frequently.

I drove a rental wagoneer the other day on a 10 day road trip with the hemi engine and the electric torque assist. I was surprised honestly… I put 2700 miles on it driving from nor cal to socal then to Arizona, through Nevada and home. It only activated ”eco mode” a handful of times, 23mpg average for the entire trip. My truck will go into eco mode if I blip the throttle and let off fast. Point is, maybe the constant on off of the MDS “around the early years 2015 ect causes that constant “slapping” the cam when disengaging and re-engaging. Again just talking out loud. Anyone that’s tore into these motors have thoughts or comments?
 
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Barr2255

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@wildone

Thank you!! I don’t plan on changing the oil pump depending on how the bore scope pictures look of the pick up screen. If it’s bad I’ll have to tackle that job either way even though it’s a PITA!

I’m honestly scared to pull the MDS solenoids because of how everyone says they are super brittle and almost never come out in one piece… your thoughts? I also agree if later down the road the solenoids have issues, pulling the intake manifold is a half hour at most.

I figured the ARP are overkill but the wife gave the okay and I know I won’t have to worry about them being an issue (biting nails) I’m sure the wife will have a big hunny do list after this lol

As far as exhaust manifolds I’ve only read good things about the remflex but I did the passenger side a couple months ago and purchased the felpro ones, it was a set for both sides.That brings me to a question… if you have experience with doing this, I mentioned taking the heads to the machine shop to clean/test them. The passenger side exhaust manifold only had about 500 miles on it, do you think there is any issue reusing that gasket? I pulled the manifold today off the head and it looks darn good, good enough to reuse… do you think I should just put a new one on to be safe?


When cleaning up the intake manifold what are your thoughts on spraying some some simple green (or similar) prior to washing out to really get it cleaned up?

Thank you for all the input!
 

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@wildone

Thank you!! I don’t plan on changing the oil pump depending on how the bore scope pictures look of the pick up screen. If it’s bad I’ll have to tackle that job either way even though it’s a PITA!

I’m honestly scared to pull the MDS solenoids because of how everyone says they are super brittle and almost never come out in one piece… your thoughts? I also agree if later down the road the solenoids have issues, pulling the intake manifold is a half hour at most.

I figured the ARP are overkill but the wife gave the okay and I know I won’t have to worry about them being an issue (biting nails) I’m sure the wife will have a big hunny do list after this lol

As far as exhaust manifolds I’ve only read good things about the remflex but I did the passenger side a couple months ago and purchased the felpro ones, it was a set for both sides.That brings me to a question… if you have experience with doing this, I mentioned taking the heads to the machine shop to clean/test them. The passenger side exhaust manifold only had about 500 miles on it, do you think there is any issue reusing that gasket? I pulled the manifold today off the head and it looks darn good, good enough to reuse… do you think I should just put a new one on to be safe?


When cleaning up the intake manifold what are your thoughts on spraying some some simple green (or similar) prior to washing out to really get it cleaned up?

Thank you for all the input!
You could use Simple Green and a high pressure hose or the carwash to really get the intake clean.If the exhaust gasket still looks good,you could probably reuse it,but that's out of my league,as i've always replaced the manifold gaskets if i have the manifolds off,lol.
How clean was the VVT solenoid at the front of the engine,that's usually your best indicator to how much metal went through the engine/bearings etc.
Dylan has some good video's up on the cam swap,if it's your first hemi cam swap,well worth watching.


Kurtis's write up used to be known as the cam swap bible,but there's some very good video's out now, it still doesn't hurt to read through Kurtis thread though

 
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Okay, I’m going to sound ignorant… what VVT solenoid at the front of the engine?

I definitely watch the video. It is my first cam swap on the hemi. With that said I am no stranger to wrenching. I have a 67 corvette that I’ve fully rebuilt engine wise. I’m pretty sure that’s a different forum but worth bragging about lol
 

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Wild one

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Okay, I’m going to sound ignorant… what VVT solenoid at the front of the engine?

I definitely watch the video. It is my first cam swap on the hemi. With that said I am no stranger to wrenching. I have a 67 corvette that I’ve fully rebuilt engine wise. I’m pretty sure that’s a different forum but worth bragging about lol
At the front wall of the engine under the intake,you'll see another solenoid,it controls the VVT cam timing ,if you pull it,and the screen is full of metal filings,it's general consus the engine needs a complete rebuild,as it'll have fed filings/shavings through the bearings,as the VVT solenoid is after the bearings.Skip ahead to about the 2:50 mark,as you already have the manifold off

 

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Here's another video you can also watch.If you lay a welding wire or straightened out coat hanger lengthwise on the head under the pushrods,it'll hold them up a bit,and make it easier to reinstall the rocker shafts

 
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@wildone

Thanks man, I’ll check out that solenoid. Hopefully it’s clean. I really think I caught this issue early as it didn’t tap very long before I pulled it apart.

The wire trick is great! I used it when I replaced valve springs in the past and had the rocker shafts off.

Keep the good info coming!
 
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Barr2255

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So in an effort to not read back through the post did I mention that the lifter that failed is a non MDS lifter? Any thoughts on that? I say that because everyone is very quick to say the MDS is the issue and it seems like most opt to delete the MDS system.

I will be taking front timing cover off tomorrow and I will upload some pictures, hopefully have enough time to get the cam all the way out as well.

Parts have started arriving and I’ll make an itemized list with prices as well, I know this has been done before but we all buy different stuff and find different deals so maybe it will be beneficial to someone down the road.
 

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So in an effort to not read back through the post did I mention that the lifter that failed is a non MDS lifter? Any thoughts on that? I say that because everyone is very quick to say the MDS is the issue and it seems like most opt to delete the MDS system.

I will be taking front timing cover off tomorrow and I will upload some pictures, hopefully have enough time to get the cam all the way out as well.

Parts have started arriving and I’ll make an itemized list with prices as well, I know this has been done before but we all buy different stuff and find different deals so maybe it will be beneficial to someone down the road.
Post some pic's of the VVT solenoid,as before you get carried away ordering parts,you better get it out,and check the screens over on it.If it's full of filings,there's no point in stuffing a cam into that block,unless you rebuild it.
 
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Barr2255

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I will pull that first thing tomorrow. My oil or oil filter hasn’t had any of that beautiful glint so fingers crossed, I’ve seen some pretty bad cams posted on here (multiple lobes wiped clean) and rebuilds that were successful so I’m honestly not to worried as I have only one bad lifter. The truck was running just fine when I pulled it apart, not even a misfire. If it’s bad with metal I’m not worried about pulling the whole engine and checking crank and replacing as nesscary or heck at that point reman or even new engines are only $4k - $5k still cheaper than a new truck. I already ordered everything as mentioned in previous post. WORST case scenario it would be worth a new engine, my truck is seriously immaculate and I’ve already upgraded a lot as far at suspension goes. It’s a fully trimmed out Laramie, technically a long horn just minus the air suspension which is a good thing in my book. I put bluetooth enabled bags and compressor on it when I bought it knowing I would be hauling 3 tons of pig feed on my trailer at a time.
 

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So in an effort to not read back through the post did I mention that the lifter that failed is a non MDS lifter? Any thoughts on that? I say that because everyone is very quick to say the MDS is the issue and it seems like most opt to delete the MDS system.

We've known for a while here on RF that its not MDS related as the non MDS equipped hemi's fail as well. Just one of the many hemi myths floating around.
 

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This video goes over how to remove the pan on a 4x4 truck.


I haven't used any Felpros on my truck but I've used them over the years and I've always had good luck with them.
Felpro has begun to fail at spurious times, for me, over the years. I will strive nowadays to use either Mahle brand or OE.
 
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That’s very interesting, I just learned from my local machine shop that if the Felpros are blue than they are made by U.S. seal company and better than the other ones that come in various other colors. Not sure how true that is but interesting non the less. I did notice upon receiving some of the gaskets all the ones that were blue said made “in U.S.A.” The other color variations were made in Mexico and various other places.
 

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We've known for a while here on RF that its not MDS related as the non MDS equipped hemi's fail as well. Just one of the many hemi myths floating around.

My posted question for the OP about if he was going to do an MDS delete while he was this far into lifter/cam replacement was supposed to be a diversion from his thread becoming another synthetic oil thread, lol.

Also, many folks that have gone this far replacing the cam/lifters, have done the MDS delete for the mere sake of having piece of mind that the unneeded "electrical/mechanical fuel savings nanny", MDS, is eliminated altogether ...
 

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My posted question for the OP about if he was going to do an MDS delete while he was this far into lifter/cam replacement was supposed to be a diversion from his thread becoming another synthetic oil thread, lol.

Also, many folks that have gone this far replacing the cam/lifters, have done the MDS delete for the mere sake of having piece of mind that the unneeded "electrical/mechanical fuel savings nanny", MDS, is eliminated altogether ...

Absolutely, if I'm that far into the engine then MDS is getting pulled out by its teeth lol. I make do right now with the pulsar so I don't have wear out the steering wheel buttons.
 
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I thought about going the pulsar route and deleting because honestly the MDS doesn’t save much in terms of mileage in my experiance. I was just unsure about the pulsar and when I called AMS they didn’t even seem to know much about it so I opted against it. How do you like it? Do the pre programmed tunes seem to make a difference?
 

ramffml

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I thought about going the pulsar route and deleting because honestly the MDS doesn’t save much in terms of mileage in my experiance. I was just unsure about the pulsar and when I called AMS they didn’t even seem to know much about it so I opted against it. How do you like it? Do the pre programmed tunes seem to make a difference?

I love the MDS disable feature. It's why its still on my truck.

The other 2 things it does is boost your HP/Torque with a very mild inline tune, however with those tunes it also changes the pedal sensitivity and I'm not a fan of the increased sensivity. All these pedal boosters suffer the same flaw, they make the initial tip-in too sensitive. They should leave the initial throttle input stock, and then ramp up beyond that.

So I find the tunes interesting, but don't run them because after a number of months playing with it I normally prefer stock pedal feel. A few times I'll put it on tow mode just for kicks but not often.

When I bought the pulsar the web page said it had the ability to change the idle rpms but that was a mistake and they updated the page. The MDS disable and idle rpms were the two main reasons I wanted it.
 
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