5.7 cam or injector, very disappointed

[rod7515]

I have a 5.7 2011 1500 quad cab automatic 4wd truck. Has only 64,000 miles. Ive owned the truck for 5 years. When i bought it it had 38,000 on it. I service it every 5k using mobile 1 and new filter everytime. Filters are napa gold.
The truck is not driven hard at all. I mow 3 days a week towing a trailer with 2 standup mowers. Less then 3k total in weight. Only drive 160 miles per week. No big hills but some upgrade changes where at times it will kick down a gear. I do use the towing package switch which keeps it from going into overdrive.
Last Monday my check engine light began flashing and i could feel a slight miss. This was within 3 miles after filling up with Sunoco 87 octane. I was towing my trailer to a customer so i babied it and the miss went away. Probably within about 60 seconds. Next upgrade light again came on and this time it set solid light. I parked it and mowed about 1.5 hours. On startup this miss was gone but light stayed on. I babied it home with no issues but solid light. I did manually shift it down at times to keep rpms around 2500 or so. No miss at all. Got home and checked codes and had a cyl 5 misfire. Cleared codes and went and got plugs and coil pack. Changed them same night. Cleared codes.
Tuesday i drove with trailer and no light thru first 5 customers. Then light came back on going up small hill under acceleration. Checked code and had cyl 5 misfire. Cleared it and finished day. Got home and added a 20 oz can of sea foam to tank. Next day i drove truck without trailer. Ran good no issues. I decided to kick into passing gear and light came back on. Cyl 5 misfire.
So i changed new coil pack from cyl 5 to cyl 1. Drove it this week and same issues again and still cyl 5 misfire.
I guess this leaves me either a bad injector or is a lifter/cam going bad?
I can make light come on by driving aggressive going upgrade or even on flat. It will go to a miss. If i pull over and sit in park and take throttle to 2k, miss will go away in about 60-90 seconds each time.
Do i try an injector on cyl 5, i really dont feel like tearing this thing apart and check valve movement. Or do i trade it in? What are your thoughts?
Thanks Rod

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

Pull the valve cover on drivers' side and look at cyl 5 rocker arm movement, by you increasing the throttle speed you are pumping the lifter up so it doesn't misfire, don't think it's an injector problem, can you record the noise, fix it now before you do damage and have metal fillings in the VVT solenoid.

 

[jws123]

Could possibly be a injector thing see if you can post a vid of it running will general tap if lifter/cam is failing along with missfire. Cam shgould not be bad at that low of miles unless its a former like commercial truck that idled all the time check in your dash options what the engine hours are.

 

[rod7515]

There is no lifter/cam tap at all. Engine only has 2234 hrs on it total.
What is the VVT solenoid and where is it located?
DO i just guess on an injector and if i do try one do i buy injector and 4 o-rings since i need to pull the whole side rail up?
How long does it take to change cam and lifters? If i have to go that way do i go stock shaft or can i up grade? Or do i trade it away. I really do like this truck. Its very clean and well kept.
Rod

 

[Burla]

That is very usual with cam misfires, load causes the mis fires more and when it first happens. If it is a cam, your are soon to not being able to drive it one way or another, I'd address it now, and put no load on it if you must drive. If it is the cam and you fix it, look up lubrication strategies that can possibly avoid it happening again. In my sig threads

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

There is no lifter/cam tap at all. Engine only has 2234 hrs on it total.

How many idle hours, if they are high that's the demise of the Hemi with low oil pressure at idle, VVT solenoid is below intake manifold.

 

[jws123]

How many idle hours, if they are high that's the demise of the Hemi with low oil pressure at idle, VVT solenoid is below intake manifold.

its a 2011 doesnt show idle hours but overall 2234 total hours is low

I wouldnt jump to cam being the issue righht away rule out everything else re check plugs coils injector compression ect. on that cylinder.

 

[Burla]

Another reason the cam wouldnt throw a code when cold is the oil is so thick when cool fluid friction will move the lobe, especially because it is right on the edge of throwing a code or not. Yes rule out everything you can, but sometimes the most likely thing is the cause. Known issue with these cams that usually happens when a truck is between 70k-130k miles. Once trucks get past that 130k, they tend to really survive well. If that is this case this time, it just happened a little early. Again, if it is the cam, shops will check the oil control valve to see if replacement of cam or engine is the correct move.

 

[rod7515]

how many hours does it take to according to the labor guide to replace cam and lifters? are then any special tools needed? just preparing for the worst. I spent a few hours researching information about the 5.7 hemi this morning. it seems that the issue is there is not enough oil being splashed onto the cam at idle because of the distance it is located above the crank assembly then because of the angle and placement of the lifters the oil does not drip down on the cam but instead it drops just outside the cam circle. why didnt ram stand behind this issue? it appears to be a major issue with the 5.7. Even if I do a cam lifter replacement what is to keep it from happening again?
I will replace the fuel injector on #5 before i remove the valve cover but only because the issue started almost immediately after I filled up with fuel. I know its a long shot.
I may go look at other trucks later today. Does the 6.4 have the same issues?
Thanks
Rod

 

[Burla]

how many hours does it take to according to the labor guide to replace cam and lifters? are then any special tools needed? just preparing for the worst. I spent a few hours researching information about the 5.7 hemi this morning. it seems that the issue is there is not enough oil being splashed onto the cam at idle because of the distance it is located above the crank assembly then because of the angle and placement of the lifters the oil does not drip down on the cam but instead it drops just outside the cam circle. why didnt ram stand behind this issue? it appears to be a major issue with the 5.7. Even if I do a cam lifter replacement what is to keep it from happening again?
I will replace the fuel injector on #5 before i remove the valve cover but only because the issue started almost immediately after I filled up with fuel. I know its a long shot.
I may go look at other trucks later today. Does the 6.4 have the same issues?
Thanks
Rod

ram forum cam bible

Some threads like this and others can only be found on ram forum, straight gold.

 

[Wild one]

Does the 6.4 have the same issues?
Thanks
Rod

In a nutshell yup,the 6.4 and 5.7 basically use the same oiling system.The latest tip is to upgrade to the Hellcat oil pump in both engines,if you have them apart to do a cam/lifter job

 

[jws123]

how many hours does it take to according to the labor guide to replace cam and lifters? are then any special tools needed? just preparing for the worst. I spent a few hours researching information about the 5.7 hemi this morning. it seems that the issue is there is not enough oil being splashed onto the cam at idle because of the distance it is located above the crank assembly then because of the angle and placement of the lifters the oil does not drip down on the cam but instead it drops just outside the cam circle. why didnt ram stand behind this issue? it appears to be a major issue with the 5.7. Even if I do a cam lifter replacement what is to keep it from happening again?
I will replace the fuel injector on #5 before i remove the valve cover but only because the issue started almost immediately after I filled up with fuel. I know its a long shot.
I may go look at other trucks later today. Does the 6.4 have the same issues?
Thanks
Rod

If it comes down to it and you need a cam/lifters its a couple day job depends how mechanically inclined you are you pull heads off oil pan front timing cover ect. The thing with hemis is they do not like long idle times not a motor to be jentle on I always drive it hard keep the oil flowing ahahah.

 

[RamRod37]

how many hours does it take to according to the labor guide to replace cam and lifters? are then any special tools needed? just preparing for the worst. I spent a few hours researching information about the 5.7 hemi this morning. it seems that the issue is there is not enough oil being splashed onto the cam at idle because of the distance it is located above the crank assembly then because of the angle and placement of the lifters the oil does not drip down on the cam but instead it drops just outside the cam circle. why didnt ram stand behind this issue? it appears to be a major issue with the 5.7. Even if I do a cam lifter replacement what is to keep it from happening again?
I will replace the fuel injector on #5 before i remove the valve cover but only because the issue started almost immediately after I filled up with fuel. I know its a long shot.
I may go look at other trucks later today. Does the 6.4 have the same issues?
Thanks
Rod

Plan on 12 plus hours I done mine in 11hrs but divided it into two weekends 5hrs tear down and 6hrs to go back sent heads off to head shop and at the time all of my parts had not come in so broke it down into tear down day and assembly day

 

[Gilberts Garage]

ProDemand gives 8.2hrs for just the lifters or 14.7 for the camshaft and lifters. I've seen many hemis come in with bad lifter and no noise. Most of them do make noise, but I've seen more than a handful idle quietly and miss under load and found chewed up cam and lifters.

 

[pacofortacos]

how many hours does it take to according to the labor guide to replace cam and lifters? are then any special tools needed? just preparing for the worst. I spent a few hours researching information about the 5.7 hemi this morning. it seems that the issue is there is not enough oil being splashed onto the cam at idle because of the distance it is located above the crank assembly then because of the angle and placement of the lifters the oil does not drip down on the cam but instead it drops just outside the cam circle. why didnt ram stand behind this issue? it appears to be a major issue with the 5.7. Even if I do a cam lifter replacement what is to keep it from happening again?
I will replace the fuel injector on #5 before i remove the valve cover but only because the issue started almost immediately after I filled up with fuel. I know its a long shot.
I may go look at other trucks later today. Does the 6.4 have the same issues?
Thanks
Rod

If that was the case, then why would the roller lifter problem also occur in GM and other vehicles as well as the 3.6 mopar?
It's most likely a part quality issue mixed with an oil quality issue - while today's oils are very good, they are also missing important ingredients due to government mandates.

 

[blackbetty14]

Wow that sucks, hope you get it fixed up. On a side note... I didn't think that mobile 1 oil met the Mopar specs? It's the main reason I aways grab the Penn ultra as I'm at 54k and if something happens I don't want them blaming me bc I do my own oil changes.

 

[IanK]

I have a 2011 Ram hemi cam and lifters failed at around 79k exact same symptoms would throw the misfire under load. Of course you'll have to rule everything else out but that's what it sounds like for the year. I did an MDS delete and used a comp cam my truck is good now but I change oil every 3k miles because I use truck for stop and start delivery driving with a lot of idling hours.

 

[farout75]

I have a 5.7 2011 1500 quad cab automatic 4wd truck. Has only 64,000 miles. Ive owned the truck for 5 years. When i bought it it had 38,000 on it. I service it every 5k using mobile 1 and new filter everytime. Filters are napa gold.
The truck is not driven hard at all. I mow 3 days a week towing a trailer with 2 standup mowers. Less then 3k total in weight. Only drive 160 miles per week. No big hills but some upgrade changes where at times it will kick down a gear. I do use the towing package switch which keeps it from going into overdrive.
Last Monday my check engine light began flashing and i could feel a slight miss. This was within 3 miles after filling up with Sunoco 87 octane. I was towing my trailer to a customer so i babied it and the miss went away. Probably within about 60 seconds. Next upgrade light again came on and this time it set solid light. I parked it and mowed about 1.5 hours. On startup this miss was gone but light stayed on. I babied it home with no issues but solid light. I did manually shift it down at times to keep rpms around 2500 or so. No miss at all. Got home and checked codes and had a cyl 5 misfire. Cleared codes and went and got plugs and coil pack. Changed them same night. Cleared codes.
Tuesday i drove with trailer and no light thru first 5 customers. Then light came back on going up small hill under acceleration. Checked code and had cyl 5 misfire. Cleared it and finished day. Got home and added a 20 oz can of sea foam to tank. Next day i drove truck without trailer. Ran good no issues. I decided to kick into passing gear and light came back on. Cyl 5 misfire.
So i changed new coil pack from cyl 5 to cyl 1. Drove it this week and same issues again and still cyl 5 misfire.
I guess this leaves me either a bad injector or is a lifter/cam going bad?
I can make light come on by driving aggressive going upgrade or even on flat. It will go to a miss. If i pull over and sit in park and take throttle to 2k, miss will go away in about 60-90 seconds each time.
Do i try an injector on cyl 5, i really dont feel like tearing this thing apart and check valve movement. Or do i trade it in? What are your thoughts?
Thanks Rod

Very interesting problem. The miles are quite low, the hours you state are reasonable. This issue is a puzzle. You seem to be above average in knowing what to do to keep it running. However when I read you question if you should trade it in, that tells me most likely that's the way to go. The truck is 12 years old and time has taken its tole. Consider a newer used RAM that still has some warranty left, and I think you will be better off.

Now I bought my 17 RAM new and I keep up with everything, so I know what gone into it. My 17 RAM 1500 5.7 has 126891 miles on it with 3,763 hours. 752 idle hours and 3011 driving. So more that 20% on my hours are idling. Which by some peoples opinion I should be having the famous 5.7 tick. I use Pennzoil synthetic 5-20 and MOPAR filters and change my oil ever 6,000 miles. I have kept a record of every gallon of gas and every repair, and expense on this truck, I have maintained the vehicle by the book.

I am hoping this helps in some small way. Good luck.

 

[rod7515]

Still driving the truck with trailer for mowing. Still have no ticking noise at all. Truck is still setting a cyl 5 misfire code daily. I am hoping to pull the valve cover on thursday to look at valve movement.
If this ends up needing a cam and lifters I was wondering if anyone has gone aftermarket like summit racing? What are the specs of the OEM cam? I called the local Dodge Chrysler Ram dealer today and spoke to the parts manager for about 20 minutes. I went to school with her so know her well. She said she couldnt find any information on the cam specs at all. SO my question would be what are the specs of the factory cam and lifters, could I go aftermarket thru summit, And would it cause me to have CEL issues and not pass emissions?
Ive decided that I will do the work myself.
Appreciate your thoughts.
Rod

 

[Dusty]

Still driving the truck with trailer for mowing. Still have no ticking noise at all. Truck is still setting a cyl 5 misfire code daily. I am hoping to pull the valve cover on thursday to look at valve movement.
If this ends up needing a cam and lifters I was wondering if anyone has gone aftermarket like summit racing? What are the specs of the OEM cam? I called the local Dodge Chrysler Ram dealer today and spoke to the parts manager for about 20 minutes. I went to school with her so know her well. She said she couldnt find any information on the cam specs at all. SO my question would be what are the specs of the factory cam and lifters, could I go aftermarket thru summit, And would it cause me to have CEL issues and not pass emissions?
Ive decided that I will do the work myself.
Appreciate your thoughts.
Rod

Your 1998 Ram has a 5.2 (318) motor. I would bet against it being a camshaft problem.

However, the duration across most years was 244 degrees with 26 degrees overlap, although this could vary by application (318-1, 318-2, 318-3, etc.).

For the 244 version intake opens at 16 degrees BTDC; closes at 228 degrees ATDC.

Exhaust opens at 126 degrees ATDC; closes at 10 degrees ATDC.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 87707 miles.

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