65rfe nightmare

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JJPMustang

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Hi! Sorry for the book- please help?!

Last year I did a few burnouts on an otherwise always babied 14 QC 5.7 4x4 with the 6-speed. I was replacing the OEM RSAs the next week after many out of balance issues.

The truck went into limp mode. I let it sit over night, then the next day it drove fine for months.

A few months ago (45k mi) I started hearing a clunk during the 1-2 shift and eventually it also did it sometimes going back down to first. Not all the time; no codes and if I took off softly- no issues. I unplugged the battery and the next day it was the same. I took it to a local transmission shop who said the fluids were fine, no issues outside a quick learn and the clunking noises went away. I drove it home happy until a few days later the noise came back, even louder. The trans shop said take it to a dealer and ask them to look for software updates regarding shift quality.

I dug around here and elsewhere and several mechanics told me to replace the shift solenoid. I did so (gray plug), along with fluids, both filters (upgraded the spin on with a Mobil stripped of paint), aftermarket pan with drain plug, and metal filter adapter instead of the plastic one. After getting the fluid level up to spec, I drove it for a day and it shifted exactly the same.

Finally broke down and took it to a dealer requesting another quick learn, and/or software update for shift quality as it seemed the TCM/PCM didn’t recognize the new parts. They kept it 8 days, said the issue was a pan leak (it sat at my home 2 weeks without a drop), charged me $400 to put a new tube of sealant and fill it back to spec.

Yesterday I picked it up (all techs left for the day) and before I drove off the property I could hear and feel absolutely nothing was better. I could tell they did pull the pan and reseal it- gobs of gasket all around the perimeter, smears from handprints on the brand new pan, etc.

The service advisor said they’re more concerned with sway bar link noises (I’ve replaced those on other trucks in the past- mine are fine…) and is playing dumb. I’m expecting another BS con job call later today. I’m not even sure they did the quick learn- what would your next move be?

The next nearest Chrysler dealer has an even worse reputation than this one. I’m near Cincinnati. Thanks!!!!
 
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JJPMustang

JJPMustang

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Also want to add it has never once given any dash/warning indicators.

Some pics of the parts and when I had it apart:
 

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JJPMustang

JJPMustang

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To describe the noise: it happens at the end of the 1-2 engagement. Metallic sounding- almost like when you switch a gear pedaling a bicycle with the rear derailleur. When it does it down shifting it is when the truck is at a complete stop. U- joints are fine no play or slop in the drivetrain. Just hit 50k miles.
 

Daw14

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Why would you go to a dealer if you were not under warranty? Find an independent shop, ask friends and family for references . Never trust a dealer ,they do not like the truth or facts.
 
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JJPMustang

JJPMustang

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Why would you go to a dealer if you were not under warranty? Find an independent shop, ask friends and family for references . Never trust a dealer ,they do not like the truth or facts.
The trans shop said take it to a dealer and ask them to look for software updates regarding shift quality.
 

Burla

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1 to second is troublesome, not the usual thing. It is in limp mode? Have you ever ran codes? Where you on street when you did burnouts? Rear end never grabbed like soft dirt to street?
 
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JJPMustang

JJPMustang

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Limp mode was the day it happened. Absolutely no codes since the noise started. It was on slightly damp pavement late at night in an undisclosed rural road

It’s back at the dealer won’t get looked at again until at least Monday. Several of my buddies have been scratching their heads saying if the dealer didn’t reset the transmission programming as requested it will still shift with the old solenoid values, old fluid, etc. I had minimal metal on the magnet but it smelled like 50k was a bit long for a fluid change.
 

Burla

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Do you have lsd or open diff? The fact this happened right after a burn out, if that is what happened, sounds like you broke something for real. If the tires grabbed at all, something has to give, it is usually in diff, but could be hard part in trans. No quick learn or fluid change is gonna help you with that. The fact the noise went away, is who shot john, a fake result that the quick learn doesn't explain. It could have just been just a thing that could have happened anyhow without quicklearn. The dealer is incompetent, in the independent shops defense, they just said do a quicklearn, not to let the dealer milk you. I'd go back to them and get some costs to replace. Mise well drive is as long as you can. did you tell independent shop it was after a burnout?
 
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JJPMustang

JJPMustang

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One wheel peel
Trans shop was made aware of the circumstances. I should add if shifting it in manual mode it NEVER has the issue. In tow/haul mode it goes away. Both dealer and shop said they didn’t hear/feel it right away but the more it warmed up they noticed. I’m ocd and it’s all I can hear now when driving it!
 

Burla

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Drive in tow haul, problem solved. I did that for 7 years, no problem with it all it does it change away from low rpm's. I'm not sure "why" this works, all TH does is change shift points and raises line pressure a bit, my guess there still is an issue this just creates a good mask for it. Try TH for a week, see if you ever hear it. I used tow haul to do away with low rpm shudder, I got used to it, turn on truck and hit button, every time. Your issue likely isnt heard by low rpm, but rather line pressure, as going from 1 to 2 not much low rpm there.
 

Burla

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With how old the truck is I'm not sure I would bother going through the valve body, I would be inclined to ride it til she dies, and then make sure the new trans has the weaknesses of the rfe addressed.

these are pretty informative

rfe fail

rfe valve body


.
 
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JJPMustang

JJPMustang

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With how old the truck is I'm not sure I would bother going through the valve body, I would be inclined to ride it til she dies, and then make sure the new trans has the weaknesses of the rfe addressed.

these are pretty informative

rfe fail

rfe valve body


.
Thanks for your feedback! I’ve avoided tow mode since gas is priced what it is. I misspoke when I typed it went away completely- I meant to say 50%. Typo on my part. Honestly, I’m probably going to make a decision to sell it outright and pick up something more economical for daily commutes. If I need V8 fun I have my S197 :)
 

StickyLifter

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This is the junk I was looking at doing until I realized that the RFE family's ratios are so wide that it wasn't worth my time or money:

You shouldn't need to pull the transmission for this stuff. Once this is done you can program line pressure through the roof. Might need springs in the pump for insane pressures, and that would mean pulling the trans out and apart.





 

riverboy460

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this clunk you described is the first i heard of the 1-2 shift. when i was rebuilding them i would get a lot of complaints about the clunk when placed into reverse from park or reverse to drive. This was because the driveshafts loved to wear and would have a slight play in them allowing it in terms kinda slip on the transmission tail shaft yoke causing a clunking sound. if your transmission guys are telling you there isn't any issues being observed/recorded on the scan tools its possible you could have the same issue going on. but really without driving the vehicle and hearing it myself its hard to say and still could have an issue mechanically going on inside the trans. but i would not recommend tearing into it if its not broken. its a 1500 and if worked hard or driven hard you will have to rebuild the transmission eventually. 70k to 100k is roughly when i had to rebuild most 1500 transmission back in my ram dealer days.
 
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JJPMustang

JJPMustang

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this clunk you described is the first i heard of the 1-2 shift. when i was rebuilding them i would get a lot of complaints about the clunk when placed into reverse from park or reverse to drive. This was because the driveshafts loved to wear and would have a slight play in them allowing it in terms kinda slip on the transmission tail shaft yoke causing a clunking sound. if your transmission guys are telling you there isn't any issues being observed/recorded on the scan tools its possible you could have the same issue going on. but really without driving the vehicle and hearing it myself its hard to say and still could have an issue mechanically going on inside the trans. but i would not recommend tearing into it if its not broken. its a 1500 and if worked hard or driven hard you will have to rebuild the transmission eventually. 70k to 100k is roughly when i had to rebuild most 1500 transmission back in my ram dealer days.
Hey sorry I missed your reply. Thanks!
 
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JJPMustang

JJPMustang

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UPDATE: the noise never completely went away so I put 3,000 more miles on it. Yesterday when backing up my steep driveway it started to slip. I do not have reverse at all now

Good news though driving in all forward gears the noise is gone

Back to doing my homework I suppose
 
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JJPMustang

JJPMustang

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Temperature seems to make no difference- cold or normal operating (~ 155*F). I can feel in the linkage the normal feedback going into any gears. I also hear what sounds like a faint solenoid/electronic noise when putting it in reverse but no “thunk” or normal engagement. When I let off the brake and hit the gas it just free-revs the same as if in neutral.

All forward gears engage smoothly whether in tow, manual mode, or normal drive (including overdrive gears). I’m thinking the valve body may be warped and it’s not getting sufficient line pressure, but will be calling same original trans shop tomorrow am.

PS no codes or warning lights!
 
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emjohn4

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Need a replacement one?

I've got one from my 2012, 95k miles, with a deep Mag-Hytec pan. No slips, clunks, or otherwise wrong items. Mopar fluid changed at 50k, with OEM.

It's sitting in my garage. I swaped in a 8HP70.

I'm in Ohio. If you want it, PM me an offer.
 

Lyle Longboat

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I just bought at ATS stage 5 545rfe for the 5.7 Hemi 1500. My second “beefed up” 545rfe lost overdrive. Still runs through all gears, just slips when trying to pass at 50/60mph.
 
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JJPMustang

JJPMustang

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Need a replacement one?

I've got one from my 2012, 95k miles, with a deep Mag-Hytec pan. No slips, clunks, or otherwise wrong items. Mopar fluid changed at 50k, with OEM.

It's sitting in my garage. I swaped in a 8HP70.

I'm in Ohio. If you want it, PM me an offer.
Hopefully nothing catastrophic has happened that would warrant needing to swap transmissions. My 2014 only has 52,000 miles! Thanks though!
 
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