Bilstein 5100 Install

[DonnyP]

I finally have all my parts ready for the install.

I have the Front Bilstein 5100's
I have Suspension Maxx Sway Bar Endlinks
I now have Mevotech Control Arms, last part I was waiting on.

I saw numerous posts where it recommends you paint the UCA's before putting them on, what are you guys using to paint them, so it holds up and doesn't rust?

Any other pieces I might need for my install that I forgot? I don't think I'll be doing anything in the rear at this time.

Hoping that by summer/late fall I can get a 6" lift installed also.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

I finally have all my parts ready for the install.

I have the Front Bilstein 5100's
I have Suspension Maxx Sway Bar Endlinks
I now have Mevotech Control Arms, last part I was waiting on.

I saw numerous posts where it recommends you paint the UCA's before putting them on, what are you guys using to paint them, so it holds up and doesn't rust?

Any other pieces I might need for my install that I forgot? I don't think I'll be doing anything in the rear at this time.

Hoping that by summer/late fall I can get a 6" lift installed also.

Truck undercoating works very well.

 

[shadowhawk]

High temp paint should work too

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Basically it all depends on where you live. If I lived down south, i would use gloss black spraypaint (rustoleum).
If you live where they dump crap loads of salt on the roads to melt the snow, use duplicor truck bedliner. Thats what i use.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Also do not use a spring compressor to remove/install the spring. Needs to be done by a shop with a heavy duty spring compressor. I was charged $50 for both struts, and they tack welded the bolts under the top hat spacer so they dont spin. Taching those should be mandatory!

 

[shadowhawk]

Also do not use a speing compressor to remove/install the spring. Needs to be done by a shop with a heavy duty spring compressor. I was charged $50 for both struts, and they tack welded the bolts under the top hat spacer so they dont spin. Taching those should be mandatory!

No, not really. To each his/her own, but you can do this at home too.

 

[DonnyP]

I will be having a buddy of mine with a shop doing it. He has all the tools and compressors I would need.

I am from northern WI, so snow and ice and salt is like second nature, so I'll be looking into the Duplicolor bed coating.

I wasn't aware of the nuts on the top hat spacer being an issue. I do have a wire feed welder here.

 

[R.L.K.]

I finally have all my parts ready for the install.

I have the Front Bilstein 5100's
I have Suspension Maxx Sway Bar Endlinks
I now have Mevotech Control Arms, last part I was waiting on.

I saw numerous posts where it recommends you paint the UCA's before putting them on, what are you guys using to paint them, so it holds up and doesn't rust?

Any other pieces I might need for my install that I forgot? I don't think I'll be doing anything in the rear at this time.

Hoping that by summer/late fall I can get a 6" lift installed also.

Check out post #26 here Sir , it has a lot of good info .
Hope this helps !


http://www.ramforum.com/index.php?posts/1206420

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[DonnyP]

Check out post #26 here Sir , it has a lot of good info .
Hope this helps !


http://www.ramforum.com/index.php?posts/1206420

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Awesome information RLK. that will help out a lot. Nice of people like you on here to spend your time helping others. Exactly what I was looking for.

You like the 1.5" spacer on yours? I'm aiming for perfect level, maybe have rear a little higher for when towing a boat.

Also looking to go with 20x10 -24 offset with 35's. hoping they fit

 

[R.L.K.]

Awesome information RLK. that will help out a lot. Nice of people like you on here to spend your time helping others. Exactly what I was looking for.

You like the 1.5" spacer on yours? I'm aiming for perfect level, maybe have rear a little higher for when towing a boat.

Also looking to go with 20x10 -24 offset with 35's. hoping they fit

No worries Sir , I believe helping others is the way to go [emoji106][emoji106]

As for the 1.5" spacers in the rear ...I'd do 1" spacers if I were to do it again . My rear is about an inch higher right now , I believe a 1/2 " lower would make me feel better .
The 19 × -24mm wheels will likely rub up front at full lock without 1.5 " wheel spacers up front ...if you go this route ensure to get hub centric Bora spacers ...worth the $$ Imo

I believe a 10 x -12mm wheel will work but I'm not 100% certain on that ?

The stock wheels are a +19mm wheel if I remember correctly so the -12s would stick out an additional 31mm s


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[R.L.K.]

Here's a fantastic link on tire and wheel selection...

http://www.ramforum.com/index.php?posts/1087055

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[nateinva]

Hijacking this thread to ask a question.

I originally went with spacers up front for a level. Going to do it right with the bils very soon. My stock shocks need replacing anyway.

I always see discussion on the front adjustables but never the rear.

Amazon has a kit of the fronts and rears that allow 1" lift in the rear. Any comments on the rear bils and why/why not to consider?

 

[DonnyP]

If I remember correctly, the rear Bils don't gain you any height. It just replaces the factory shock.

 

[R.L.K.]

Hijacking this thread to ask a question.

I originally went with spacers up front for a level. Going to do it right with the bils very soon. My stock shocks need replacing anyway.

I always see discussion on the front adjustables but never the rear.

Amazon has a kit of the fronts and rears that allow 1" lift in the rear. Any comments on the rear bils and why/why not to consider?

The rear is just a normal shock mounted outside the coil ...shocks in their normal capacity just provide a resistance to bounce due to positive and negative coil spring or leave spring loads though proper valving inside the shock absorber .

Shocks do not provide lift in the rear , they can allow a 1 inch or more lift capacity by being longer .

The front adjustable shocks are mounted inside the coil spring like a strut assy .. the design and how the front and rear work are completely different .

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[nateinva]

The rear is just a normal shock mounted outside the coil ...shocks in their normal capacity just provide a resistance to bounce due to positive and negative coil spring or leave spring loads though proper valving inside the shock absorber .

Shocks do not provide lift in the rear , they can allow a 1 inch or more lift capacity by being longer .

The front adjustable shocks are mounted inside the coil spring like a strut assy .. the design and how the front and rear work are completely different .

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Thank you sir. Here is the product link for reference:

Bilstein 5100 Series Shock Kit for Dodge Ram 1500 4WD 2009-14 - Includes Front Ride Height Adjustable Shocks # 24-187367 & Rear Shocks # 24-187374 by Bilstein https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRJ855E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gMFNAbYY5HWER

I've seen people get 1" spacers in the rear but never seen much discussion on these. That makes sense.

After being leveled for a while I actually don't mind a slight rake as to me it's a slightly more aggressive stance. Debating what to do as I'll be getting 35s at the same time to replace my Trail Hogs that have worn terribly over the last year.

 

[deltaboy]

After being leveled for a while I actually don't mind a slight rake as to me it's a slightly more aggressive stance. Debating what to do as I'll be getting 35s at the same time to replace my Trail Hogs that have worn terribly over the last year.

What would you set them up front to maintain a rake, 1.8? My 17 Sport has a significant rake that I want to level out but keep a tad aggressive. Gonna do the Bils in a couple weeks.



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[Georgiasport]

I just installed the set of 4 Bilsteins on my truck Sat. Set the front to 2.1" and got TGC 1" rear coil spacers to go with the rear Bils for a slight rake. Looks perfect to me. I also put in the Air Lift 1000 coil bags to firm things up when I tow or haul heavy loads and not squat. I did rent the spring compressor from Auto Zone, so it can be done at home. Now, next on the list is a set of AMP steps since it's a bit harder to get my ass up on the driver's seat.

 

[deltaboy]

I just installed the set of 4 Bilsteins on my truck Sat. Set the front to 2.1" and got TGC 1" rear coil spacers to go with the rear Bils for a slight rake. Looks perfect to me. I also put in the Air Lift 1000 coil bags to firm things up when I tow or haul heavy loads and not squat. I did rent the spring compressor from Auto Zone, so it can be done at home. Now, next on the list is a set of AMP steps since it's a bit harder to get my ass up on the driver's seat.

Pics please!!!



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[nateinva]

I'll leave that to those with them already installed. Hopefully someone can give you a good answer.

My plan was to run the front at 2.8 to comfortably fit 35s (my current 2756520 AT tires are close to 34.5 and have some slight rubbing at full lock with the leveling spacers), and add an inch of lift to the rear. This should maintain slight rake with no load in the back.

I like how it sits now, basically level, but miss the stance my Dakota had where the back end sat a little taller. Just personal preference I guess....

 

[R.L.K.]

What would you set them up front to maintain a rake, 1.8? My 17 Sport has a significant rake that I want to level out but keep a tad aggressive. Gonna do the Bils in a couple weeks.



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Measure the rake you have from the ground through the center of the wheel up to the bottom of your fenders front and rear .

Then decide how much rake you want and set the Bilsteins accordingly...

See post 8 above and go to my link there , likely All the info you need is there ...lots of good info I'm [emoji16]...I'm a bit biases as it's my post [emoji106][emoji106]

I went with the bills at. +2.8" front and installed a 1.5" coil spacer in the rear .

My link in post 8 above also has a link within it to my spacer install . If I did it again ...I'd go with a 1 inch rear coil spacer with bill at +2 8" . For my truck ...all trucks are a bit different....

Hope this helps !!

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