- Joined
- May 12, 2017
- Posts
- 335
- Reaction score
- 311
- Location
- Abbeville, AL
- Ram Year
- 2014
- Engine
- 5.7L Hemi 4X4 Crew White/Chrome
Ok...what's the trick to get injector connectors off??? Feel like imma break em..
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I didn't think any special tool was required for the quick disconnect Ram uses, either the single button type or the "redundant latch" type. The tool you showed was listed for Ford products.Thanks man, I appreciate you following and responding, helps give me a little piece of mind. Getting off in a few hours and will be getting balls-deep this afternoon.
Is there a little colored tab on the connectors?Ok...what's the trick to get injector connectors off??? Feel like imma break em..
Yes sir, there is a red tab but I tried pushing, pulling and tuggingIs there a little colored tab on the connectors?
Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 73126 miles
It came off without a tool on the connection nearest the fuel rail. Still at a loss with the fuel injector connection. Gonna do some googling this evening after I return some rental tools.I didn't think any special tool was required for the quick disconnect Ram uses, either the single button type or the "redundant latch" type. The tool you showed was listed for Ford products.
Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 73126 miles
I use a screwdriver to pry/slide up the red tabs and then just press and connector will come right off. I almost always lose them not a big deal they still clip on fine normal.It came off without a tool on the connection nearest the fuel rail. Still at a loss with the fuel injector connection. Gonna do some googling this evening after I return some rental tools.
That's what I ended up doing and got them all removed. What's the trick to getting the alternator off? I unscrewed the two bolts but it won't budge. It was the last thing I did last night before I quit for the evening.I use a screwdriver to pry/slide up the red tabs and then just press and connector will come right off. I almost always lose them not a big deal they still clip on fine normal.
You should probably hunt up either a Haynes or Chiltons repair manual,as it sounds like you need one.That's what I ended up doing and got them all removed. What's the trick to getting the alternator off? I unscrewed the two bolts but it won't budge. It was the last thing I did last night before I quit for the evening.
Lol, I figured it out, I am just afraid to break thingsYou should probably hunt up either a Haynes or Chiltons repair manual,as it sounds like you need one.
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With the questions you're asking,i still think you should get either a Haynes or Chiltons manual,they'd probably save you a bunch of time.Did you read through Kurtis's cam swap how to,if not,make the time to read through it,as he has some pretty decent tips.Lol, I figured it out, I am just afraid to break things
I have read through his thread many many times. It is the reason I even decided to go ahead and do this myself...little did I know, it skips through most of the conectors/tubes/other peripherals required to get to the intake and heads. Because of that, I have been slow going and cautious and even marking connectors and tubes as I go to make sure I can reasonably reassemble. I do agree though, I think a haynes would be helpful but...I am almost to the part where I can start pulling heads lolWith the questions you're asking,i still think you should get either a Haynes or Chiltons manual,they'd probably save you a bunch of time.Did you read through Kurtis's cam swap how to,if not,make the time to read through it,as he has some pretty decent tips.
How-To: 4th gen hemi cam installation
Since cams are becoming more available for the VVT hemi engine, regardless of whose cam you choose, here is the how-to of doing the cam swap for the 4th gen trucks. This is honestly a job that can be done by anyone with basic handtools and basic mechanical skills. I did my first cam swap...www.ramforum.com
I agree. When you get to the reassembly there are certain aspects that could cause you grief if you've done something wrong.With the questions you're asking,i still think you should get either a Haynes or Chiltons manual,they'd probably save you a bunch of time.Did you read through Kurtis's cam swap how to,if not,make the time to read through it,as he has some pretty decent tips.
How-To: 4th gen hemi cam installation
Since cams are becoming more available for the VVT hemi engine, regardless of whose cam you choose, here is the how-to of doing the cam swap for the 4th gen trucks. This is honestly a job that can be done by anyone with basic handtools and basic mechanical skills. I did my first cam swap...www.ramforum.com
Reverse the torque sequences on the rocker shaft and head bolts,and only back them out an 1/8th of a turn at a time, till they are all loose,and then wind them back in, in the same fashion following the torque sequence. The rocker shaft can bend if you remove or torque 1 bolt at a time.Pay attention to where the push rods go,as the intake and exhaust push rods are differant lengths,also make sure you look closely at how they are seated on re-assembly,as alot of guys have issues with misplaced push rods on re-assembly.I have read through his thread many many times. It is the reason I even decided to go ahead and do this myself...little did I know, it skips through most of the conectors/tubes/other peripherals required to get to the intake and heads. Because of that, I have been slow going and cautious and even marking connectors and tubes as I go to make sure I can reasonably reassemble. I do agree though, I think a haynes would be helpful but...I am almost to the part where I can start pulling heads lol
I have heard and read many accounts of the pushrods not being seated properly and to be mindful. Thank you for all the tips!Reverse the torque sequences on the rocker shaft and head bolts,and only back them out an 1/8th of a turn at a time, till they are all loose,and then wind them back in, in the same fashion following the torque sequence. The rocker shaft can bend if you remove or torque 1 bolt at a time.Pay attention to where the push rods go,as the intake and exhaust push rods are differant lengths,also make sure you look closely at how they are seated on re-assembly,as alot of guys have issues with misplaced push rods on re-assembly.
Pull the plugs if you need to turn it over by hand for whatever reason makes it easier .Quick question, how hard should it be to turn the crank while heads/rockers still installed? I put a half inch drive on it and tried to turn and it turned but it was very tough.
because you're not trying to compress air in the cylinderPull the plugs if you need to turn it over by hand for whatever reason makes it easier .
Duhh, I knew this hahabecause you're not trying to compress air in the cylinder
Realized I worded that wrong was doing it on my phone of course I knew that lolbecause you're not trying to compress air in the cylinder