Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[EdGs]

I checked my service manual. It says:
View attachment 574801


Gonna do a video of the first engine start?

Double check those intake ports for forgotten shop towels!

Oh, Sh*t, torqued plugs to 15 ft-lbs. Should I loosen and retorque??

Way past time to look for shop towels in the intake ports.....lol

 

[Ken226]

Oh, Sh*t, torqued plugs to 15 ft-lbs. Should I loosen and retorque??

Way past time to look for shop towels in the intake ports.....lol

No.

The manual for our Durango R/T, Also a Hemi, says 13 ft lbs, + or - 2 ft lbs.

15 is within that spec.

 

[Wild one]

Yeah, I didn't have any reducers on hand, so I just bought a 3 foot length of 5/8" heater hose and used about 2 feet to put a more gentle loop in the hose. Clamped with 2 of the MU23 clamps from the original hoses.

As far as progress, got the valve covers on, all spark plugs in. Passenger side wiring harness connected at all engine points, as far as I can tell. Fuel line reconnected at rail.

You can see my heater hose bypass loop on left side:
View attachment 574800

Coils are not installed yet, the boots don't want to come off the coils.

I couldn't find the torque specs for the plugs, one place said no more than 15 ft-lbs., so that's what I used til I know for sure.

I keep a few differant sized Dorman reducers on hand,as they're cheap,and you can find them pretty well at any auto parts store.You can get them in straight or 90 degree configurations

Dorman 47080 Heater Hose Connectors - 5/8 In. X 3/4 In. Connector - Plastic Universal Fit : Amazon.ca: Automotive

Dorman 47080 Heater Hose Connectors - 5/8 In. X 3/4 In. Connector - Plastic Universal Fit : Amazon.ca: Automotive

www.amazon.ca

This totally blows me away,they're cheaper on Canuck Amazon,i gotta go buy a lottery ticket as i've never seen that

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-47080-Heater-Connector/dp/B000CO93HU?th=1

 

[EdGs]

No.

The manual for our Durango R/T, Also a Hemi, says 13 ft lbs, + or - 2 ft lbs.

15 is within that spec.

View attachment 574803

Whew! Something actually went my way for a change.

I keep a few differant sized Dorman reducers on hand,as they're cheap,and you can find them pretty well at any auto parts store.You can get them in straight or 90 degree configurations

Dorman 47080 Heater Hose Connectors - 5/8 In. X 3/4 In. Connector - Plastic Universal Fit : Amazon.ca: Automotive

Dorman 47080 Heater Hose Connectors - 5/8 In. X 3/4 In. Connector - Plastic Universal Fit : Amazon.ca: Automotive

www.amazon.ca

I gotta pick up some of them. Bought the heater hose, some touch up pant for the Tundra, and some hand towels, dropped $55 at O'Reilly's. It goes quick.

 

[EdGs]

My nephew came over to help when I was priming the engine with oil, so basically the trigger was locked on and we pumped the pressure up while it was flowing, along with rotating the crank pretty much the whole time.

Only had 1 plug in each cylinder at that time.

Rotated pretty easy.

One thing: I didn't hear a bunch of air escaping while I did the prime. In the video I watched, you could hear it gurgling. Not sure if because I have new rockers, pushrods, lifters, etc.

Hope it's not an issue.

I'm shooting for working on it the next couple days after work, and hopefully crank it up later in the week.

Need to put the battery on a charger as well.

Any tips on priming the fuel rail before the initial crank up?

Do I need to calibrate the throttle body?

If so, how?

 

[Wild one]

My nephew came over to help when I was priming the engine with oil, so basically the trigger was locked on and we pumped the pressure up while it was flowing, along with rotating the crank pretty much the whole time.

Only had 1 plug in each cylinder at that time.

Rotated pretty easy.

One thing: I didn't hear a bunch of air escaping while I did the prime. In the video I watched, you could hear it gurgling. Not sure if because I have new rockers, pushrods, lifters, etc.

Hope it's not an issue.

I'm shooting for working on it the next couple days after work, and hopefully crank it up later in the week.

Need to put the battery on a charger as well.

Any tips on priming the fuel rail before the initial crank up?

Do I need to calibrate the throttle body?

If so, how?

Using the pump set-up you have,you won't really hear any air escaping,the important thing is having oil show up at the top of engine,like you had.
Cycle the ignition on once or twice before starting it,that'll prime the fuel system.
You can do a throttle body relearn,by cycling the ignition to "Run" with out stepping on the brake pedal so it doesn't start,then pushing the gas pedal to the floor and back up 3 times,turn the ignition back off,open and close the drivers door,then start the truck

 

[EdGs]

Using the pump set-up you have,you won't really hear any air escaping,the important thing is having oil show up at the top of engine,like you had.
Cycle the ignition on once or twice before starting it,that'll prime the fuel system.
You can do a throttle body relearn,by cycling the ignition to "Run" with out stepping on the brake pedal so it doesn't start,then pushing the gas pedal to the floor and back up 3 times,turn the ignition back off,open and close the drivers door,then start the truck

I was thinking about when I unhooked the fitting in the block. I lost a bit of oil when I removed it, had to keep my thumb on it 'til I got the pipe plug in. It was oily as hell, I hope the thread sealant helps.

I wonder if a good quality check valve would work screwed into the block in place of the pipe plug. It would stick out a couple inches, but you could prime it, and not have any oil leak back out when you unhook your priming rig.

Then, you could cap off the inlet to stop it from leaking in case the check valve would somehow go bad down the line.

I'm probably overcomplicating it. I tend to do that.....lol

 

[Wild one]

I was thinking about when I unhooked the fitting in the block. I lost a bit of oil whe I removed it, had to keep my thumb on it 'til I got the pipe plug in. It was oily as hell, I hope the thread sealant helps.

I wonder if a good quality check valve would work screwed into the block in place of the pipe plug. It would stick out a couple inches, but you could prime it, snd not have any oil leak back out. Then, you could cap off the inlet to stop it from leaking if the check valve would somehow go bad.

I'm probably overcomplicating it. I tend to do that.....lol

Yup you're making a mountain out of a molehill,lol. As soon as you shut the engine off,the oil usually starts to drain back out of the top end,even with an anti-drain back valve in the filter.That's why they'll rattle on the next start up,if the prior start up was only for say a minute or so.

 

[EdGs]

I used a shopvac to suck the coolant from the TMU lines, I got a little less than a quart out. Coolant appeared to be only in the bottom line.

Do I still need to blow them out with compressed air?

If so, how much psi? 15 psi, since rad cap is 16?

Do I need to loop the TMU lines together where the coolant hoses attach to the TMU?

I can then leave the TMU as is, right?

Gonna install my @caulk04 bypass and aluminum cap as well

 

[Wild one]

I used a shopvac to suck the coolant from the TMU lines, I got a little less than a quart out. Coolant appeared to be only in the bottom line.

Do I still need to blow them out with compressed air?

If so, how much psi? 15 psi, since rad cap is 16?

Do I need to loop the TMU lines together where the coolant hoses attach to the TMU?

I can then leave the TMU as is, right?

Gonna install my @caulk04 bypass and aluminum cap as well

You can blow them out with upwards of 25 psi if you want,but if you sucked them dry,you should be good to go. You can remove the TMU,JB Weld a couple plugs into the holes and then loop the hoses together on top of the transmission using a plastic Dorman heater hose coupling.If you go back to the earlier molded heater hoses,then you don't have to loop the hoses together on top of the transmission,as there'll be no coolant fed to them. If you delete the TMU you'll never have to worry about the TMU leaking coolant into the transmission,the transmission will take a little longer to get up to temp,but remember the cars and heavy duty trucks don't heat the transmission fluid,so the TMU isn't something you really need. To bad the 1500's thermostat wasn't like the 2500's thermostat,as the 2500's and heavier with the 8 speed run about 20 degrees cooler then the 8 speeds in the 1500's do.
These are the holes that need to be plugged if you remove the TMU,it's all in the Revmax thread starting about pg24

 

[EdGs]

You can blow them out with upwards of 25 psi if you want,but if you sucked them dry,you should be good to go. You can remove the TMU,JB Weld a couple plugs into the holes and then loop the hoses together on top of the transmission using a plastic Dorman heater hose coupling.If you go back to the earlier molded heater hoses,then you don't have to loop the hoses together on top of the transmission,as there'll be no coolant fed to them. If you delete the TMU you'll never have to worry about the TMU leaking coolant into the transmission,the transmission will take a little longer to get up to temp,but remember the cars and heavy duty trucks don't heat the transmission fluid,so the TMU isn't something you really need. To bad the 1500's thermostat wasn't like the 2500's thermostat,as the 2500's and heavier with the 8 speed run about 20 degrees cooler then the 8 speeds in the 1500's do.
These are the holes that need to be plugged if you remove the TMU,it's all in the Revmax thread starting about pg24

I will likely leave the TMU. I have to study the coolant lines on top. I wanted to remove the majority of those lines, if possible, to clean it up.

Need to make sure the heater hoses I ordered actually fit, though. I looped the water pump lines for now with a length of 5/8 heater hose.

 

[Wild one]

I will likely leave the TMU. I have to study the coolant lines on top. I wanted to remove tge majority of those lines, if possible, to clean it up.

Need to make sure the heater hoses I ordered actually fit, though. I looped the water pump lines for now with a length of 5/8 heater hose.

If you want to remove the lines off the tmu,it's easier to unbolt it to get at the lines feeding it.They don't exactly make unhooking any of the lines on the transmission easy.You can get them off with it bolted in place,but if i remember right,i think i unbolted the tmu to make getting the hoses off it easier,but it's been about 5 years since Khris and i were doing this,lol. I think you bought a set of the proper hose clamp pliars for the hose clamps,as you'll need a set of them to get at and squeeze the clamps on the rubber hoses on the top of the TMU

 

[Wild one]

I will likely leave the TMU. I have to study the coolant lines on top. I wanted to remove tge majority of those lines, if possible, to clean it up.

Need to make sure the heater hoses I ordered actually fit, though. I looped the water pump lines for now with a length of 5/8 heater hose.View attachment 574849

Is that white looking plug from the 3 way valve Ed,if so you might want to plug it back in.I never ran with it unplugged,but i know with it plugged in i never had any codes pop up for the 3 way valve

 

[EdGs]

Is that white looking plug from the 3 way valve Ed,if so you might want to plug it back in.I never ran with it unplugged,but i know with it plugged in i never had any codes pop up for the 3 way valve

Yeah, I hadn't plugged it back in yet, I got some of the other harnesses twisted about when I had them tie d up (seriously, t i e d u p, mods?) and out of the way. I need to straighten them up. I may have ruined some of the push clips that hold them here and there.

I did not buy those hose clamp pliers yet.

 

[Wild one]

Yeah, I hadn't plugged it back in yet, I got some of the other harnesses twisted about when I had them tie d up (seriously, t i e d u p, mods?) and out of the way. I need to straighten them up. I may have ruined some of the push clips that hold them here and there.

I did not buy those hose clamp pliers yet.

Once you buy a set of the proper pliars you'll kick your rear for not buying them years ago,lol
Even these cheap ones will work for the average DIY'er

24" Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers Locking Tool Fuel Oil Water 2FT Long Reach - Amazon.com

24" Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers Locking Tool Fuel Oil Water 2FT Long Reach - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Man we do get $crewed by Canuck amazon,10 bucks south of the border 30 bucks north of the border aarrgghh

24" Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers Locking Tool Fuel Oil Water 2FT Long Reach, Locking-Jaw Pliers - Amazon Canada

24" Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers Locking Tool Fuel Oil Water 2FT Long Reach in Locking-Jaw Pliers.

www.amazon.ca

 

[KansasArt]

When I had to replace the radiator in my wife’s car I had to buy one of those pliars. Had to reach a clamp I couldn’t reach. What a game changer! Worth every penny!

 

[Ken226]

Yea, i bought one of those last year.

If it had cost 10x as much, would have still been worth it.

 

[Burla]

I did a job without those last year, still mad at myself, no joke took hours out of my life. Still haven't bought one, but I will before taking off a clamp with limited access, this I promise you.

 

[Ken226]

I did a job without those last year, still mad at myself, no joke took hours out of my life. Still haven't bought one, but I will before taking off a clamp with limited access, this I promise you.

The coolest thing about it is that it ratchets.

Mine anyway, I assume they are all the same. When you squeeze the handles, they ratchet and lock closed so that the you can slide the spring clamp around on the hose without having to reach muscle failure keeping it held.

 

[EdGs]

Ok, you guys talked me into it.......lol

Just ordered one.