Exhaust Cut-Outs using Exhaust Brake Button

[theJester517]

Hey guys after months of deliberating ordering a new Warlock, I decided to buy used just to get a Crew Cab with the standard 6'4" bed without spending 60+ on the new gen which I'm not as crazy about, I scoured the whole country and found a beautiful 2017 Sport in flame red, 1 owner, low mileage, squeaky clean Carfax, and I'm taking a one way flight from NY to AR to go pick it up next week. I already have plans to put a lift in it and get it undercoated and had an idea for the exhaust but have some questions. I have an old Dakota with a broken off exhaust and the thing is a 5 speed so needless to say I never used the horn, I could just step on the clutch and rev, I like the noise. I was interested in doing exhaust cutouts on my new Ram to have that loud factor when wanted but with a caveat. Right now I have the switch panel with the trailer brake controller, traction control, tow haul, park sense front and rear, heated and cooled seats, and heated steering wheel. Essentially the only button blacked out is the exhaust brake which comes on the diesel trucks. I have found the part number for the panel with all the same buttons plus the exhaust brake and I was wondering if anyone knew how I could wire it that the button operated the cut outs. I'm ordering Alpha-OBD and my Mom works at the Dodge dealership so I know I can add a sales code but I'm just curious if anyone knew more about the wiring. In addition, I wanted to know if all my other functions would work without any changes if I just plugged it in

Thanks in advance,
Jesse

PS: I attached the photo of my switch panel from the listing and also a picture of the panel I was going to buy, Mopar part number 68241382AA

 

[LoadedExpressRam]

Not sure about that route but another option if youre interested is the homelink buttons. I programed my II- for open and III- for close. Of course button I- is for the garage. There are youtube videos with how to's as well. Sounds like a nice rig. Safe travels

 

[theJester517]

Not sure about that route but another option if youre interested is the homelink buttons. I programed my II- for open and III- for close. Of course button I- is for the garage. There are youtube videos with how to's as well. Sounds like a nice rig. Safe travels

Thanks for the insight man, I actually have two garage doors side by side so I'm gonna need at least two of the buttons, I'm planning on using the third one for my old garage once I have an overhead door reinstalled on it. On my Step-Father's 2014 2500 6 speed diesel, that button is latching and stays on until pressed again and it automatically turns off when the ignition is turned off so it seems like the perfect setup for the cutouts. Can I ask what kind you used? I saw some that are just small Y pipes that bolt up to the flange and clamp afterwards, I'm trying to figure out what to use before I order and install the full exhaust system either from Mopar, Magnaflow, etc.

By the way, I like your truck, for years and years I thought about buying a regular cab 4x4 and making it into an R/T clone, I can't tell your cab config but I like the hood

 

[LoadedExpressRam]

Thanks for the insight man, I actually have two garage doors side by side so I'm gonna need at least two of the buttons, I'm planning on using the third one for my old garage once I have an overhead door reinstalled on it. On my Step-Father's 2014 2500 6 speed diesel, that button is latching and stays on until pressed again and it automatically turns off when the ignition is turned off so it seems like the perfect setup for the cutouts. Can I ask what kind you used? I saw some that are just small Y pipes that bolt up to the flange and clamp afterwards, I'm trying to figure out what to use before I order and install the full exhaust system either from Mopar, Magnaflow, etc.

By the way, I like your truck, for years and years I thought about buying a regular cab 4x4 and making it into an R/T clone, I can't tell your cab config but I like the hood

Appreciate the compliment. Dont tell nobody but its a crew cab but i've made sure to add everything an R/T would have from factory or better. Well at least i think i did and the hood aint all that, fitment horrible and cant really drive in the rain because i run a vararam intake.

As for the cutout i went with spelab. I believe its the vacuum style so its not electric. I mounted the pump under my hood attached to my fuse box. The vacuum supposed to be weather proof somewhat. Got the idea from Frostbite Ram off of youtube. For the price its a damn good deal.

 

[Tach_tech]

The switch bank uses bus communication to send signals. So there’s not really an easy way without getting into a separate bus controller to get them to do what you want, even then it would likely be a nightmare to figure it out. You’re better off using the home link buttons or a separate switch.

 

[theJester517]

Express Loaded Ram, I saw that Vararam intake but after seeing the Mopar CAI and the functional hood scoop Ram air in the accessories catalog, I knew I wanted it. I've seen nothing but positive reviews from Rebel owners on the Rebel forum, here on Ram forum and even that guy Frostbite Ram made a youtube video saying it was pretty damn good, just expensive. After my Mom's dealer discount and using my Mopar credit card I'm thinking it's gonna be pretty reasonable compared to ordering it anywhere. As far as the cutouts go, I didn't even know they made them vacuum style, I just assumed they were all electronically controlled. I just revived an old thread where someone said they used the Magnaflow cutout pipes and electric motors so I might go that route, especially if I do the Magnaflow catback system.

Tach_tech, I figured it would be a pain but I know they make those panels customizable, you could either option it with aux switches from the factory on the HD trucks or buy it from 4th Gen Ram Electronics and even program the buttons to be momentary or latching, since my truck has almost every option except air suspension, my panel was only missing the exhaust brake button and air suspension. I could custom order and buy the kit from 4.G.R.E. for $275, if it ever comes back in stock but then I would lose the control of my heated/ventilated seats and heated wheel from the panel, they would only be accessible through the touch screen. I might have to do some extensive research but I have a truck with the diesel brake for reference and the panel I ordered only cost me $65 bucks and if I can't use it, I'll throw it up on ebay. I just thought it would be a really clean way to install and operate cutouts

 

[Tach_tech]

The trucks that have the aux switches also came with a separate fuse box to wire and make use of those switches. If you had that it wouldn’t be to hard to make it work.

 

[tjkoen01]

Here is what I did for mounting switches in my truck; side of the center console. The panel is removable to drill the holes or replace if you get rid of the switches or want to reconfigure it later.



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[theJester517]

Here is what I did for mounting switches in my truck; side of the center console. The panel is removable to drill the holes or replace if you get rid of the switches or want to reconfigure it later.



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I do like that if all else fails, I definitely wouldn't want it in a panel that isn't easily and cheaply replaceable. What else are you running with those switches?

 

[Wild one]

I have all my nitrous switches in the center console.

 

[tjkoen01]

I do like that if all else fails, I definitely wouldn't want it in a panel that isn't easily and cheaply replaceable. What else are you running with those switches?

The 2 switches on the left are for 4 wheel lock and 2 low (the push button enables/disables the system, the other selects 4 lock or 2 low); the other two allow my dash cam and power outlet in the console to be switched with the ignition or always on, or off. I need to add another soon for my washer fluid heater.


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[misfit77]

Or skip switches. My ebay cheapo cut out is wireless remote. I have an off switch hidden in the rear cup holder.
Lasted years and cheap enough i would just buy new one when it breaks.

Earlier i think i read you want the cut out to return when you turn the power off. That complicates things because i have yet to see a brand that works that way.