Exhaust Manifold bolts nightmare

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Epillon

Epillon

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Well, if you're upset enough, buy a set of ARH long tube headers and ensure they use better bolts.

That was my major problem which I failed to mention in my follow up rant. The tech said he cant/won't install anything other than OEM on a warranty issue. It sounded like he was very fearful of losing his job or taking on some unwanted liability so I didn't push the guy.

So basically I'm going to let them do the warranty work for free then have to take it to a REAL shop to be safe and have the bolts swapped AGAIN with some good aftermarket bolts and possibly an aftermarket manifold if it's warped.

Just frustrated as hell with the steal-ership.
 

Hootbro

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That was my major problem which I failed to mention in my follow up rant. The tech said he cant/won't install anything other than OEM on a warranty issue. It sounded like he was very fearful of losing his job or taking on some unwanted liability so I didn't push the guy.

So basically I'm going to let them do the warranty work for free then have to take it to a REAL shop to be safe and have the bolts swapped AGAIN with some good aftermarket bolts and possibly an aftermarket manifold if it's warped.

Just frustrated as hell with the steal-ership.

Find out who the district or area FCA warranty rep is for that dealer and talk to him/her and explain your situation. They have been known to do exceptions to allow aftermarket parts for a warranty repair where they cover the labor and you cover the parts.

I know of a Jeep Wrangler that had alignment issue that was on the ragged edge of being out of spec but wore front tires excessively. They allowed the warranty replacement and install of aftermarket adjustable ball joints to center the alignment.
 

audio1der

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It seems like the rear bolts are the most susceptible to this problem. Possibly because the run the hottest?

Our (not factory) trusted mechanic says the passenger side manifold is not an optimal design, and a lot of weight hangs off the back end, causing stress on the last bolt. Makes sense to me.

Kurtis- are these the ones you mean, (kit 8916 for the Hemi)
Mopar Locking Header Bolt Kits | Locking Bolts
 

charonblk07

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Sorry I have to ask this again,

But how many manifold bolts are there total?

Thank you



17

Our (not factory) trusted mechanic says the passenger side manifold is not an optimal design, and a lot of weight hangs off the back end, causing stress on the last bolt. Makes sense to me.

Kurtis- are these the ones you mean, (kit 8916 for the Hemi)
Mopar Locking Header Bolt Kits | Locking Bolts



Those are them, the 5.7L hemi takes kit 8916.
 

jwheeler

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Our (not factory) trusted mechanic says the passenger side manifold is not an optimal design, and a lot of weight hangs off the back end, causing stress on the last bolt. Makes sense to me.



Kurtis- are these the ones you mean, (kit 8916 for the Hemi)

Mopar Locking Header Bolt Kits | Locking Bolts


It is unlikely that is the cause of the problem. The broken bolts are caused by the manifold warping. I agree that it is a poor design though. They should be able to make a manifold that last more than 50k miles.


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rduchateau2954

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Well, if you're upset enough, buy a set of ARH long tube headers and ensure they use better bolts.
I'm glad I'm not the only one thinking this. Maybe not that extreme but why not a set of shorties and be done with all this crap?

My '11 has a few broken and I'm not under warranty. I'm just trying to talk myself out of long tubes

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Hipps2000

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This is Why I ripped mine out at 10k and went with ceramic coated longtube headers with stage 8 locking bolts. The manifolds are tiny and cheap and also seem to be of poor design, makes sense why the my keep breaking bolts. If you do headers do longtubes you won't regret it.
 

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charonblk07

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So this is still an issue for 2013+ models? I thought it was only 2012 and prior years.



It still happens on the newer engines, just not as much with the new factory bolts that are installed. I've necked a few of the factory upgraded bolts but have never had issue with the Stage 8 fasteners.
 
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Epillon

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This is Why I ripped mine out at 10k and went with ceramic coated longtube headers with stage 8 locking bolts. The manifolds are tiny and cheap and also seem to be of poor design, makes sense why the my keep breaking bolts. If you do headers do longtubes you won't regret it.

What's it run to install long tube headers? I'm seeing from 500-1k+ for just the headers, I imagine the install is a 5+ hours atleast. Do you have to tune the truck after to get optimal performance? Does this void the Mopar 80k warranty and manufacturers? <sorry for the 20 questions, but inquiring minds want to know!>
 

Hipps2000

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I went with ARH headers with high flow cats Moes Peformance $1500 and then had the whole system ceramic coated locally for $350. I had my local ram dealer install the headers for me no problems at all, they charged me $450. I also have it tuned Hemifever 93 octane. My dealership is very cool with mods and as long as you are not beating the **** out of it... I shouldn't have a problem. I also have a 7 yr 75000 extended warranty. All my mods have been done by my dealer including Bilsteins and zone upper control arms as well as 1.5" body lift. I also run a full catback magnaflow 16869 kit with a QTP e cutout so I can run it open headers.
 

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yanclanman

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I've had the same problem with my truck. 35,000 miles and the same terrible noise. Took it to the dealer, under warranty, any they replaced my bolts. I hope they hold up this time.
 

GoldDot

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Arp doesn't make exhaust manifold bolts for 4 th gens.
 

charonblk07

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Well they need to. What the hell ARP ?
Because it's only the trucks that are having the problems and there's already a viable alternative on the market. The market for these is pathetically small actually compared to something like their head studs.
 

thebeet

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I'm doing headers soon. Think I'll get some grade 8 stainless bolts.
 

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