First Start after Cam Swap. Help pls!

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CunningStunt

CunningStunt

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Doing only 1 cylinder won't tell you much unless it reads really low,you usually want to know the differances between cylinders. You still have to pull a plug from each cylinder to do an actual test,so you might as well do all of them.It's your call,but i'd do a proper compression test.A leak down test will tell you if it's leaking past a valve or past the rings,but unless you have a decent air compressor and either buy or build yourself a leak down testor ,a compression test will usually accomplish what you want to know. Suck it up and do all cylinders whether you do a compression test or a leak down test,pulling one plug in each cylinder isn't all that tough,so quit trying to Mickey Mouse things,and do a proper test,you've already been a couple weeks doing this job,nows not the time to try for short cuts,lol. BTW if you'd of spun the motor over by hand with the plugs out,before you bolted it all back together,you'd of found any issues with piston to valve clearance. Watch these 2 video's before you go much farther,as he shows you how to turn the engine over by hand to check clearances. The second video covers his mistakes on the first video


I understand. I have an option to borrow a good borescope, I am gonna try that first, then go get a compression kit and follow your instructions if its inconclusive.
Doing only 1 cylinder won't tell you much unless it reads really low,you usually want to know the differances between cylinders. You still have to pull a plug from each cylinder to do an actual test,so you might as well do all of them.It's your call,but i'd do a proper compression test.A leak down test will tell you if it's leaking past a valve or past the rings,but unless you have a decent air compressor and either buy or build yourself a leak down testor ,a compression test will usually accomplish what you want to know. Suck it up and do all cylinders whether you do a compression test or a leak down test,pulling one plug in each cylinder isn't all that tough,so quit trying to Mickey Mouse things,and do a proper test,you've already been a couple weeks doing this job,nows not the time to try for short cuts,lol. BTW if you'd of spun the motor over by hand with the plugs out,before you bolted it all back together,you'd of found any issues with piston to valve clearance. Watch these 2 video's before you go much farther,as he shows you how to turn the engine over by hand to check clearances. The second video covers his mistakes on the first video


I did this on my first teardown, with the heads off, but thats when I decided to skip timing since I ziptied the chain and tried to take that shortcut. I think I ended up actually being partially off the sprocket which was probably making that diesel engine noise.

So, when I tore it down to timing the second ti e, I did not remove the rocker arms/rods but I did remove one plug from each cylinder and the valve covers. So when I took the chain off to align timing marks to TDS and put on the new chain, I ran into resistance at the 2 oclock position and proceded to put a bunch of force on it over a 2 to 3 minute period asking myself "WTF" before realizing, "Oh **** I may be hitting a valve, I should turn the cam a bit" and then it rotated to position. I thought nothing of it till all back together and running with cylinder 3 misfire and pointing to valve/rod. I will definitely do your compression method if borescope shows no signs.
 
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CunningStunt

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Last night I pulled the coils and a plug from each cylinder. When I was done I pulled fuse box open to see the relays, and I didn't see a fuel pump relay on the diagram...wtf lol
 

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Last night I pulled the coils and a plug from each cylinder. When I was done I pulled fuse box open to see the relays, and I didn't see a fuel pump relay on the diagram...wtf lol
if its the same on your truck as the HD's are the fuel pump relay is not in the panel its by it's self attached to the radiator core support behind driver headlight.0212210750_HDR.jpg
 

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I'm sure the fuel pump relay is integrated into the TIPM it sits in the bottom of the fuse panel in the engine compartment.
 
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CunningStunt

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like I just stated above it s right where I said it was and the 1500,s to simple 10 second internet search confirmed its the same location as mine
Yup, thanks, it was under fust box.

Soooo....

All cylinders were around 155 +/- 10psi EXCEPT #3 - effing Zero! So valve, right?
 

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Yup, thanks, it was under fust box.

Soooo....

All cylinders were around 155 +/- 10psi EXCEPT #3 - effing Zero! So valve, right?
If you're pushrods are still straight when you roll them on a piece of glass, are in their proper locations,and seated into the lifter and rocker arm properly,there's a good chance you have a bent valve.
 

RamRod37

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Yup, thanks, it was under fuse box.

Soooo....

All cylinders were around 155 +/- 10psi EXCEPT #3 - effing Zero! So valve, right?
Hate to say it but yep looks that way. I have been there I screwed up timing on GMC acadia once dang two stage timing procedure got pulled on onto another job in mid timing and got side tracked when got back on it. also forgot to rotate it a couple timing hit the starter and that's all she wrote costed me big time on that one sorry it had to happen to you good luck. if above what wild one says yeah your pulling the head which plan on that unless a pushrod somehow wedged a valve open there is no other way it would not make compression valves have to be closed to do so
 
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CunningStunt

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If you're pushrods are still straight when you roll them on a piece of glass, are in their proper locations,and seated into the lifter and rocker arm properly,there's a good chance you have a bent valve.
Since it was very likely when I was manually rotating the crank trying to get timing, it should just be a valve replacement, right? Probably no head damage? I am optimistic here cus I am almost certain I put damn near my bodyweight into trying to get to TDC before realizing and turning the cam and aligning timing...Got a head shop that says he will fix that for 20 bucks...
 
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Hate to say it but yep looks that way. I have been there I screwed up timing on GMC acadia once dang two stage timing procedure got pulled on onto another job in mid timing and got side tracked when got back on it. also forgot to rotate it a couple timing hit the starter and that's all she wrote costed me big time on that one sorry it had to happen to you good luck. if above what wild one says yeah your pulling the head which plan on that unless a pushrod somehow wedged a valve open there is no other way it would not make compression valves have to be closed to do so
Thanks man! I actually am hopeful that this is the issue since the damage was done manually and probably didnt damage the head, just the valve. At least I have a direction and a goal again, and it appears to HOPEFULLY be the last thing before shes road worthy.

I plan on making a "Lessons learned" thread when I am done and boy, is that gonna hopefully be useful to someone else lol.
 
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What's yalls advice on reusing the head gasket? It was at operating temp for about 10 mins the first go around...
 
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Got the head off last night. Shop fixed it this morning and I have it in my truck. I will be getting head gasket and reinstalling this afternoon! Super excited!

The intake valve was bent. Hard to believe I manually did that...those valve stems are pretty beefy lol
 
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So, got head back on, put intake rods and rails on, and then noticed that an exhaust pushrod was slightly bent. So I called it a night, and this morning got a few extra rods and valve cover gaskets.

I plan on removing the passenger side rails and checking all those rods before moving forward with reassembly. I only had the misfire code from Cyl 3 so I am hopeful.

Also saw minor scoring on the pistons, but at this point I said **** it.
 

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U1424 and she won't crank...help?
Check your TCM module. Check the connections. One might be open or shorted. Check all connections

What Does the U1424 RAM Code Mean?​

The Transmission Control Module (TCM) request from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to change the torque of the engine to avoid possible damage to the transmission. The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets when the TCM receives an implausible engine torque signal from the PCM over the Controller Area Network (CAN) Bus for a period of 1.0 second.
 
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CunningStunt

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Check your TCM module. Check the connections. One might be open or shorted. Check all connections

What Does the U1424 RAM Code Mean?​

The Transmission Control Module (TCM) request from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to change the torque of the engine to avoid possible damage to the transmission. The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets when the TCM receives an implausible engine torque signal from the PCM over the Controller Area Network (CAN) Bus for a period of 1.0 second.
Where is the TCM??
 

RamRod37

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Where is the TCM??
the TCM is inside trans I would start checking wiring harness everywhere you worked and check every connector make sure you got all ground wire put back and check harness across back of engine for damage. Was battery disconnected during repairs? also does it turn over just not start or will not do anything?
 

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Where is the TCM??
By the sounds of it,you should slow down,and spend more time double checking what you've done. Personally i think you try to go to fast,and you're gonna have screw ups by rushing through things. I've never seen anybody have this much trouble doing a simple cam/lifter swap,and i think you're your own worst enemy by not paying attention to what you're doing. Just my 02
 
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CunningStunt

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the TCM is inside trans I would start checking wiring harness everywhere you worked and check every connector make sure you got all ground wire put back and check harness across back of engine for damage. Was battery disconnected during repairs? also does it turn over just not start or will not do anything?
Batt disconnected whole time. It turns over, will sometimes run rough then stall out. No misfire codes tho.
 
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