First Start after Cam Swap. Help pls!

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CunningStunt

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By the sounds of it,you should slow down,and spend more time double checking what you've done. Personally i think you try to go to fast,and you're gonna have screw ups by rushing through things. I've never seen anybody have this much trouble doing a simple cam/lifter swap,and i think you're your own worst enemy by not paying attention to what you're doing. Just my 02
This is true especially of the first go around, that's how I bent a valve. Rushing and not connecting the dots when the crank wouldn't turn.

The other two teardowns tho, I've had my old man and have double and triple checked most every nut and bolt, got documentation printed out and on the windshield and kept track of all nuts and bolts...but this TCM issue...I don't know man. I'm gonna head out shortly and access what I can and check wiring...
 
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By the sounds of it,you should slow down,and spend more time double checking what you've done. Personally i think you try to go to fast,and you're gonna have screw ups by rushing through things. I've never seen anybody have this much trouble doing a simple cam/lifter swap,and i think you're your own worst enemy by not paying attention to what you're doing. Just my 02
I only removed one cylinder head and the ground strap in the back is on, and I know I connected the 2 connectors on the back of the intake, I reached back and made sure they were seated. I had to connect them before fully seating the intake in place. All other connectors I took off are connected...getting really worried now. What if tranny is having issues now...

Haven't looked under the truck yet but I suppose I could have hit wires under there while attaching headers to downpipes, but there are almost no wires there.
 
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CunningStunt

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P050B code pending now while trying to crank
After some research this could be low voltage from trying to start so many times. Gonna throw the battery on a charger, take the day off Saturday and watch football ALL DAY, then regroup and maybe take off the intake to verify harness at the back of the motor is good...
 

RamRod37

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After some research this could be low voltage from trying to start so many times. Gonna throw the battery on a charger, take the day off Saturday and watch football ALL DAY, then regroup and maybe take off the intake to verify harness at the back of the motor is good...
Do not worry about the P050B you get the other straightened out that will go away its from running like crap 50 rpm's or more below set idle rpm's caused by running rough

Spark adjustment during a cold start is intended to provide a quick response to idle speed variations. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors spark advance on a cold start over a period, then compares the average spark advance to a threshold. The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will set when the PCM detects that engine speed is 50 RPM or more (depending on vehicle specifications) below target idle speed for more than 3 seconds, and the average spark advance is above the failure threshold for more than the specified limit. Two trip fault. Three good trips to turn off the MIL.
 
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I took intake off this afternoon, got under the hood and disconnected and inspected all connections I previously messed with as well as the ones I left alone. Grounding straps were on and tight and not corroded on the heads and frame. Also got some good light in there to inspect harness itself and it looks great. No frayed insulation or wires, all seemed seated in connectors properly.

A local guy I got hooked up with from work that works on hemis on the side, said to replace crank sensor which I may do but I remembered something that I wanna try first.

When I FIRST started this job I went to disconnect the harness from the PCM and one of the two connectors' big red clips sheared off the tiny plastic shaft so I just pushed it in. It never appeared to come loose so I kind of just went with it and left it alone.

I am gonna try to disconnect it and inspect the pins in that connector which with some intense internet scouring, is known to throw some codes from rain water running along the firewall and corroding connectors.

Intake is back on, injectors, coils, and vacuum lines all hooked back up, gonna check harness to PCM connectors tomorrow and go from there.
 
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PCM harness connections are good. All connections seem good...hooked everything up and turned over and it runs until idle...I think I have bend valve(s) on the passenger side. Its the only thing I can think of...throwing p0300 after all the work...
 

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PCM harness connections are good. All connections seem good...hooked everything up and turned over and it runs until idle...I think I have bend valve(s) on the passenger side. Its the only thing I can think of...throwing p0300 after all the work...
By the time you're done,you should be able to pull the heads in your sleep ;) :Big Laugh:
 

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By the time you're done,you should be able to pull the heads in your sleep ;) :Big Laugh:
that's the way it was with me on that Tahoe job I got stuck tearing down 3 times that last time I tore it down from test fire and no go to heads back off on table was just under 1.5hrs Sorry Cunningstunt its not funny I know I have been there trust me I know
 

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And you should have A cylinder misfire code if you had I bent valve P0300 Random misfire does not normally stay In PCM alone it should have a cylinder to follow I would run it a few minutes and recheck codes
How long have you run it like that it is still possible you have a lifter not pumped back up I would run it and run RPM's up to 1,500-2,000 for 15-30 second and just make sure
 
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And you should have A cylinder misfire code if you had I bent valve P0300 Random misfire does not normally stay In PCM alone it should have a cylinder to follow I would run it a few minutes and recheck codes
How long have you run it like that it is still possible you have a lifter not pumped back up I would run it and run RPM's up to 1,500-2,000 for 15-30 second and just make sure
I ran it at 1000-2000 for a few minutes...I can clear codes and do it again. It threw the 1424 and p0300 last night.
 
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By the time you're done,you should be able to pull the heads in your sleep ;) :Big Laugh:
I can pull the heads in my sleep already! This'll be like my 4th time pulling a head lol. So many lessons learned tho. If I just own a ram for the rest of my life, I'll be in good shape when it comes to working on em...
 

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check your cam sensor if you did not remove it first before removing timing cover and reinstalling it you may have broke the sensor a post I just read said that U1424 is in relation to the cam sensor. check that get that code to go away before tearing anything back down it may be your only issue
 
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check your cam sensor if you did not remove it first before removing timing cover and reinstalling it you may have broke the sensor a post I just read said that U1424 is in relation to the cam sensor. check that get that code to go away before tearing anything back down it may be your only issue
I will maybe go ahead and tru that this afternoon before going out of town. I bought a new sensor but didnt think it was the issue since when I had timing screwed up, I got the cam/crank codes which I assumed meant it probably wasnt the issue. But, Ill swap it anyways before pulling heads.
 
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Swapped cam sensor. I think it solved u1424 BUT still getting P0300. Revved it for a few minutes to see if it would throw a specific cylinder but no dice. So I am thinking either bent valves on passenger side, or bad cam phaser?? Thoughts?
 

RamRod37

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Swapped cam sensor. I think it solved u1424 BUT still getting P0300. Revved it for a few minutes to see if it would throw a specific cylinder but no dice. So I am thinking either bent valves on passenger side, or bad cam phaser?? Thoughts?
is it missing
 
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is it missing
Forgot to hook the hose from filter to intake so reset, and recranked. U1424 and p0300 came back. It ran for 30 secs, rough, then shut off....so, I am still at a loss lol. It smells really rich too
 

RamRod37

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Yeah its missing and from video I could be wrong but sounds like I hissing noise from intake like a bent intake valve would do letting air shots in on compression stroke back through intake. And was that something knocking on video towards the end when you got cam close?
I would start by doing a compression check on the P side bank see if you have cylinder down I hope you do not video can distort sounds sometime but that did sound like air being forced back into intake. start with comp test and see what that shows
 
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