How to Fluid Film your truck

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PoMansRam

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How is the dirt and grim with the wool wax?

It seems like a good product. I like the fact that fluid film can be removed and it doesn’t appear to attract a ton of dirt...

I should make another thread on it, but now that I've used both a Woolwax kit and more recently bought a Fluidfilm kit, I find very little difference between the two products. The only difference I can tell is the smell. Woolwax smells nice like a hand lotion. Fluidfilm to me smells like manure, but the smell fades in a few days. In temps below 70F or so, both products are a butterscotch pudding consistency. Someone above said woolwax is black? Maybe you can order it dyed black, but the natural color is kind of a yellowy light brown.

In terms of the products collecting dirt, they absolutely will over time. Areas that get blasted with water, mist, abrasives while you drive will get mostly stripped of either product in a short time, but so will most any product. Dirt is no problem. It gives you more of a base to stick to for the next application of woolwax or fluid film.

I keep my spray gun and fluidfim products in a 5gal pail with lid. It's great to grab when you need it. I keep it in my warm basement over the cold months and grab it when I need it.
 

michaelrc51

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I should make another thread on it, but now that I've used both a Woolwax kit and more recently bought a Fluidfilm kit, I find very little difference between the two products. The only difference I can tell is the smell. Woolwax smells nice like a hand lotion. Fluidfilm to me smells like manure, but the smell fades in a few days. In temps below 70F or so, both products are a butterscotch pudding consistency. Someone above said woolwax is black? Maybe you can order it dyed black, but the natural color is kind of a yellowy light brown.

In terms of the products collecting dirt, they absolutely will over time. Areas that get blasted with water, mist, abrasives while you drive will get mostly stripped of either product in a short time, but so will most any product. Dirt is no problem. It gives you more of a base to stick to for the next application of woolwax or fluid film.

I keep my spray gun and fluidfim products in a 5gal pail with lid. It's great to grab when you need it. I keep it in my warm basement over the cold months and grab it when I need it.

Yeah, says they’re both available in black as well.

So, which one do you prefer and why?


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Purediesel

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Does anyone have any tips on reaching the top of the rear wheel wells where it likes to rust out? I have the wool wax spray kit and the 24" and 18" wands are great but do not reach to the top of the rear wheel wells. I tried from the bottom and from the rear by removing the tail lights. I soaked what I could but Id like to get to the top and kind of let the oil creep down the wheel well.
 

U&A

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Does anyone have any tips on reaching the top of the rear wheel wells where it likes to rust out? I have the wool wax spray kit and the 24" and 18" wands are great but do not reach to the top of the rear wheel wells. I tried from the bottom and from the rear by removing the tail lights. I soaked what I could but Id like to get to the top and kind of let the oil creep down the wheel well.

I can reach perfectly fine by spraying up into the bedside from under the truck from behind and in front of the rear wheel. Also remove the wheel well liners and get it up in there.

I can almost literally fit up inside the bedsides from underneath and spray.



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U&A

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Electric paint sprayer and I warm up the Fluid Film.

A lot of guys use the appropriate gun powered by an air compressor.

Buy the FF in 1 gallon or 5 gallon cans.


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PoMansRam

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Does anyone have any tips on reaching the top of the rear wheel wells where it likes to rust out?

You're talking the inner fender area or area within the bedside, above the metal arch of the wheelwell? I forget how it looked on mine after I removed the plastic rear wheel well liners, but I think you'd have to do the best you can thru the tail light openings?
 

Purediesel

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Yeah you are correct. The taillight openings are the easiest and most accessible place to get to the tops of the rear wheel wells. I just found a 32" spray wand from kellersportproducts but they do note that it may not work very well with the wool wax because of the thickness of wool wax. The 24" wand just falls a bit short to fully reach the top of the arch of the wheel well.
 

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The benefit if using the airlines sprayer with warmed FF is it atomizes the FF creating a mist that i can spray right into the bed side and. That mist travels all the ways up and over the wheel well.
 

Purediesel

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FYI Best way I found to heat it is with a crock pot. Low enough heat to put the entire gallon in and not melt the plastic bottom of the gallon. Flows right out with no mess. The gallon lid that kellersportproducts supplies was a great help in pouring the warmed oil out.
 

85Capri

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I couldn't figure out why Rams rot out above the wheel wells at the lip , how does the water get up there to rust them out from the inside? My Ram is a 2012 that is babied it only has around 9000 miles and the undercarriage is showing signs of rust due to where I live and I also use it to do light plowing of my family business lot and driveway . So I decided to undercoat with fluidfilm I pulled my tail lights to get above the wheel well lips and while I was trying to coat the inside of the bedside with my extension wands I realized that the center stake pocket on the bed side is directly over the wheel well lips. I thought wow this makes it easy to spray the fluid film in, then realized this is exactly how the moisture to rot the wheel lips in the first place gets in. I hopefully am doing the full undercoating this weekend and am going to shoot the wheel well lips again from above, then rig up a cover to close the stake hole pockets on each side hope this helps. PS love the fluid film/woolwax for numerous applications works great on lock cylinders to keep them free and unfrozen.
 

85Capri

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I couldn't figure out why Rams rot out above the wheel wells at the lip , how does the water get up there to rust them out from the inside? My Ram is a 2012 that is babied it only has around 9000 miles and the undercarriage is showing signs of rust due to where I live and I also use it to do light plowing of my family business lot and driveway . So I decided to undercoat with fluidfilm I pulled my tail lights to get above the wheel well lips and while I was trying to coat the inside of the bedside with my extension wands I realized that the center stake pocket on the bed side is directly over the wheel well lips. I thought wow this makes it easy to spray the fluid film in, then realized this is exactly how the moisture to rot the wheel lips in the first place gets in. I hopefully am doing the full undercoating this weekend and am going to shoot the wheel well lips again from above, then rig up a cover to close the stake hole pockets on each side hope this helps. PS love the fluid film/woolwax for numerous applications works great on lock cylinders to keep them free and unfrozen.
 

85Capri

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I couldn't figure out why Rams rot out above the wheel wells at the lip , how does the water get up there to rust them out from the inside? My Ram is a 2012 that is babied it only has around 9000 miles and the undercarriage is showing signs of rust due to where I live and I also use it to do light plowing of my family business lot and driveway . So I decided to undercoat with fluidfilm I pulled my tail lights to get above the wheel well lips and while I was trying to coat the inside of the bedside with my extension wands I realized that the center stake pocket on the bed side is directly over the wheel well lips. I thought wow this makes it easy to spray the fluid film in, then realized this is exactly how the moisture to rot the wheel lips in the first place gets in. I hopefully am doing the full undercoating this weekend and am going to shoot the wheel well lips again from above, then rig up a cover to close the stake hole pockets on each side hope this helps. PS love the fluid film/woolwax for numerous applications works great on lock cylinders to keep them free and unfrozen.
 

michaelrc51

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I couldn't figure out why Rams rot out above the wheel wells at the lip , how does the water get up there to rust them out from the inside? My Ram is a 2012 that is babied it only has around 9000 miles and the undercarriage is showing signs of rust due to where I live and I also use it to do light plowing of my family business lot and driveway . So I decided to undercoat with fluidfilm I pulled my tail lights to get above the wheel well lips and while I was trying to coat the inside of the bedside with my extension wands I realized that the center stake pocket on the bed side is directly over the wheel well lips. I thought wow this makes it easy to spray the fluid film in, then realized this is exactly how the moisture to rot the wheel lips in the first place gets in. I hopefully am doing the full undercoating this weekend and am going to shoot the wheel well lips again from above, then rig up a cover to close the stake hole pockets on each side hope this helps. PS love the fluid film/woolwax for numerous applications works great on lock cylinders to keep them free and unfrozen.

I wouldn’t put either in your lock cylinders. It WILL cause you problems later.
Spray a small amount of super lube or other silicon based lubricant inside your lock cylinders to keep them working smoothly.


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Hemi395

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A word of caution if you have Fluid Film or equivalent on your truck. I had my truck in the shop yesterday and it required putting it on the lift. He placed the pads on the frame and lifted it slightly to check the placement. As he was checking the placement, one of the rear lift pads was sliding off the frame. He quickly let the truck down and cleaned all 4 areas of the frame with brakeclean before he could put it back up on the lift. Could've been a real bad day.

Just something to keep in mind...
 

U&A

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A word of caution if you have Fluid Film or equivalent on your truck. I had my truck in the shop yesterday and it required putting it on the lift. He placed the pads on the frame and lifted it slightly to check the placement. As he was checking the placement, one of the rear lift pads was sliding off the frame. He quickly let the truck down and cleaned all 4 areas of the frame with brakeclean before he could put it back up on the lift. Could've been a real bad day.

Just something to keep in mind...

Scary ****!

Put some sand paper folded in half (so the sand side touches both the lift and your frame) on the lift spots?

I would be afraid the FF that absorbs into the steel will still let it be slippery after cleaning it off.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
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Hemi395

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Yeah thats a good idea, might have to keep some in the truck...
 
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