Lifter Failure / Hot Oil / Better Cooling etc.

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crazykid1994

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I’m planning on keeping the mds system, and was really trying to avoid having to pay for a tuner / tuning but I may… no other way to raise the idle speed right?

Lifters, cam, pushrods, head gaskets, arp head bolts, oil pump, water pump, tstat, trans heater bypass, AGS delete, all this stuff adds up for things that IMO should never need to be done on a stock power truck, doing stock truck things.

If I were hunting power then I’d have no problem paying for tuner, tuning, long tubes etc.

Sigh
None of those modifications are needed for a stock truck honestly. A stock truck works great as a stock truck. Those kids are more for people looking for reliable power building.
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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None of those modifications are needed for a stock truck honestly. A stock truck works great as a stock truck. Those kids are more for people looking for reliable power building.

I’m referring to the stuff needed to fix lifter / cam damage. I’m just

:beatdeadhorse5:


Also since I live in hot climate (AZ) my truck runs really hot doing stock truck stuff so I’m trying to improve that for my needs.

I’m hitting 250°+ oil temps and 199° trans temps regularly, so I want to lower those.

I can’t tow a camper trailer (6000lbs max, 5000lb dry) to my in-laws at anything greater than 45/50mph in some places or I get into 260° range.
 
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crazykid1994

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I’m referring to the stuff needed to fix lifter / cam damage. I’m just

:beatdeadhorse5:


Also since I live in hot climate (AZ) my truck runs really hot doing stock truck stuff so I’m trying to improve that for my needs.

I’m hitting 250°+ oil temps and 199° trans temps regularly, so I want to lower those.

I can’t tow a camper trailer (6000lbs max, 5000lb dry) to my in-laws at anything greater than 45/50mph in some places or I get into 260° range.
Definitely look into the remote filter mount. I would do the double like wild one uses because it has more surface area exposed having dual filters to help cool the oil.
 
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daveray9

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Thisi is essentially what i plan to do but with redline
For waht its
I know me personally if it were to happen to me. I would try the redline strategy first with the RP 20-820. If that did not fix it after 1000 miles I would then do the lifter/cam swap and most definitely change out the stock low oil flowing oil pump with a hellcat. Even if that is more for a piece of mind and helps me sleep at night better flowing oil is a good thing. And then stay with PUP 5w30(adding lubegard) with RP 20-820 filter every oil change.

+1 on this... every situation is different but I've been running Redline 0w-30 for about 3 years now with the RoyalPurple 20-820 filter and haven't had a tick since. It started around 75k and I'm at 135k now on a 2012. I'm wonder if posting this will jinx me here but... Def worth a try. I do the used oil analysis every other oil change and also cut the filter open to look for metal shavings and haven't found any yet.

Good luck!
 

Burla

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For waht its


+1 on this... every situation is different but I've been running Redline 0w-30 for about 3 years now with the RoyalPurple 20-820 filter and haven't had a tick since. It started around 75k and I'm at 135k now on a 2012. I'm wonder if posting this will jinx me here but... Def worth a try. I do the used oil analysis every other oil change and also cut the filter open to look for metal shavings and haven't found any yet.

Good luck!
Sadly they are reformulating only the 0w30 redline to be less stout, hopefully it still works, but it might be the one redline formula that will benefit from adding lubegard. But imo this really blows, dave from redline has promised the 5w30 redline is not changing, that is true hemi honey but of course in some places there is cold piston slap because it is a thick oil. The answer may be mixing 3/4 0w20 and 5w30 to get close to 0w30, and yes this really blows imo. This has been discussed, it might not be a thing, but if your tick comes back with 0w30 redline you will know why.

This is on redlines website 0w30 is Currently out of stock. I assume when it is back in stock it will be the new formula. It has to do with who recommends 0w30's, redline is going after that market. A lot of ram forum members who like that formula will be the guinea pigs. It will have less additives and perhaps lower visc as well. It still has good base oils, but yet to be determined if it will be as good against tick.
 
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I’ll add my two cents: I have an 06 5.7 hemi with 354,000 miles. I thought I had a hemi tick, and some friends of ours who own a shop said to rule out a sticky lifter first. Told me to add 6 ounces of seafoam to the oil, also said it’s the only additive he knows that actually works. It cured the sticky lifter, and no more ticking sounds within about 50 miles. Having said that, the engine was burning too much oil, through the rings and plugging up the cats, Was just generally wearing out. So I bought a remanufactured engine from Powertrain Products. I’m not suggesting you buy their engine. However, the reason I chose their engine is for the modifications they made to address the oiling deficits they believe causes the hemi tick. Their engine includes a high-volume oil pump and enlarged drain back holes in the head, both of which might help your situation if it is the lifter/cam scavenging.
 

Burla

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Sea Foam is a solvent, the cleaners in engine oil are calcium based, so there is no solvent in engine oil, if there was you would be having no sludge in engines most likely. Why don't they add solvents to engine oil? Is the question you should be asking yourself or anyone trying sea foam in the engine oil. Not only sea foam but any solvent will do the same thing, it absolutely will clean an engine. Solvent engine flushes have a place for sure, I'm not sure I would subscribe to long term use of it.

"Lifter" specific additives use many strategies to accomplish this one would be solvents, others would be heavy oil soluble additives (lubegard biotech)- some use powdered non soluble additives - some use heavy viscosity- some use thin viscosity- some use micro lubrication -some use esters- some use ceramics-some even use chlorine no kidding. And I would bet there are others I didnt mention. I think the challenge is to pick one with the fewest downsides or side effects. Nothing will work better then chlorine, But I don't want that in my engine.
 

crazykid1994

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Sea Foam is a solvent, the cleaners in engine oil are calcium based, so there is no solvent in engine oil, if there was you would be having no sludge in engines most likely. Why don't they add solvents to engine oil? Is the question you should be asking yourself or anyone trying sea foam in the engine oil. Not only sea foam but any solvent will do the same thing, it absolutely will clean an engine. Solvent engine flushes have a place for sure, I'm not sure I would subscribe to long term use of it.

"Lifter" specific additives use many strategies to accomplish this one would be solvents, others would be heavy oil soluble additives (lubegard biotech)- some use powdered non soluble additives - some use heavy viscosity- some use thin viscosity- some use micro lubrication -some use esters- some use ceramics-some even use chlorine no kidding. And I would bet there are others I didnt mention. I think the challenge is to pick one with the fewest downsides or side effects. Nothing will work better then chlorine, But I don't want that in my engine.
I used marvel mystery oil about 100-200 miles before oil changes in my 97 ram the last couple times and the oil would turn from dark brown to black in the 200 miles. I only did 5000 mile oil changes and used Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w30 and had 165,000 miles on it. Only had an issue in the plenum that I repaired and had a sticky lifter which was why I did the marvel mystery oil. Sticky lifter stopped and I stopped using marvel mystery oil. But this was also about 9 or 10 years ago
 
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Black1500Ram

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i have some HPL 30 weight engine cleaner coming. Will be doing a couple flushes with that over the next 4k miles. Will report back after.
Doing the ags delete and trans heater bypass this week.
royal purple filters came in.
 

Silby

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I have the v6 efan but left the mechanical fan in also. preventative is what I’m thinking and unfortunately I can’t really check if the cam is wearing without taking the heads off.

I’m doing a UOA, just waiting for the kit to come in.

Best case I put new 2017+ lifters and don’t need a cam, at least I’ll have the new lifters and upgraded oil pump along with some routine maintenance (water pump).
I can say this isn't correct from trial and error. With just the untuned efan, no mechanical, my coolant temps ran about 10 degrees hotter than stock.

With both the efan and mechanical, my coolant runs about 5 degrees cooler that stock when towing.
Try Z Max
 

HEMIMANN

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Chlorine?! Geezus - that goes in the EP add pack of GL-5 gear lubes for heavy hypoid gear sets! (SCP = sulfur, chlorine, phosphorous additive back)

Can you image how fast that would eat non-ferrous parts away in an engine? Journal bearings especially!

Medium speed marine engines (tow boats 'n such) are so sensitive they can't even take zinc - they have silver overlay journal bearings for extra long overhaul life (cause overhauling a tow engine is a bear) - will get eaten quickly by zinc.
 

HEMIMANN

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Oh, boy. I scored 4 gallons of RL 0W-30 from EliteRaceFab.com, but they shipped it by FedEx who promptly smashed the package. Now they're feuding with each other, leaving me holding the empty bag.

Not. Happy.
 

KKBB

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Oh, boy. I scored 4 gallons of RL 0W-30 from EliteRaceFab.com, but they shipped it by FedEx who promptly smashed the package. Now they're feuding with each other, leaving me holding the empty bag.

Not. Happy.
Yep. I haven't had good luck with FedEx at all!!!
 

Burn2k12Ram

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HEMIMANN

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Burn2k12Ram

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$hit, the package didn't make it out of the transfer hub! The apes must of thrown in into the truck or something.
Imma call them up tomorrow.
Worse is they stated they were shipping United Package Smashers, but it turned up at Fedup Distress!
Good luck. Just to get a human on the other end is like winning the lottery(shipping companies) And then you finally do get someone they just tell you well “I can just see what the tracking number shows, so same thing as you” . Ohhh that pi$$es me off. Hahah at the new shipping company names haha
 

Burla

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Oh, boy. I scored 4 gallons of RL 0W-30 from EliteRaceFab.com, but they shipped it by FedEx who promptly smashed the package. Now they're feuding with each other, leaving me holding the empty bag.

Not. Happy.
do you know if anyone actually received redline from elitefabs? have you in the past? Corey says he doesnt use them because it sounds fishy the prices are so cheap.
 

crackerjack1957

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do you know if anyone actually received redline from elitefabs? have you in the past? Corey says he doesnt use them because it sounds fishy the prices are so cheap.
No problems here but FedEx only had to travel 50 miles for delivery.
 

Burla

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No problems here but FedEx only had to travel 50 miles for delivery.
thanks

Yes fedex has always been the worst except for when amazon first started, now amazon is the best with driver tracking and snapping a photo of delivery and emailing you it's here, something they all should have. But, in FEDex's defense, they are the only one that will ship anything even dangerous liquids, so without them you couldnt get many things through the mail.
 

Travis8352

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Fedex always walks past my porch and throws the packages in the bushes. Ive discovered a few packages when snow melted, packages i thought were lost forever
 
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