Lifter Failure / Hot Oil / Better Cooling etc.

Black1500Ram

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Hi Guys,

Been lurking for a while and now have the dreaded lifter tick.
Thanks for everyone who has replied to my prior questions. Please anyone feel free to jump in correct any misinformation I might have, suggestions etc.

MY TRUCK
2015 Ram 1500 5.7, 8HP70, 3.92 rear. Bought at 27k currently 112k

Oil related maintenance:
5w20 PUP w/ fram xg10060 filter changed every 5k during that time.
Currently Resline 5w30 w/ RP 20-820, Purolator One Air Filter changed once a year (shout out to project farm on Youtube)

Other maintenance / upgrades:
Spark plugs changed at 100k, Amsoil in trans, tcase and diffs. 89 fuel. Suspension fully rebuilt will all Moog parts, Hellwig rear sway, Freedom Offroad Rear control arms and track bar, Billstein 5100's yada yada v6 fan in addition to mechanical.

Heaviest tow - ~6000lbs camper with dist hitch... maybe 4 times / year

So now that I have 'the tick' I'm putting together this thread for what I'm going to do to fix it and hopefully compile some other preventative fixes to reduce the chance of it happening again? Its def lifter, I've had the exhaust manifold tick; this is nothing like that.

My truck is almost paid off so I don't want to have to buy another one any time soon, and would like to get to 200/300k miles. If money allowed, I would just trade in my truck for a 3500 and call it a day but it doesn't and I don’t need a 3500.

START HERE TO SKIP INTRO
Original plan was to replace lifters with the latest 2017+ (AD part number) OEM version, still MDS, new MDS cam, pushrods, head bolts. Now I’m going to non MDS after seeing the benefits in lubrication and being able to up my idle speed and some other things through tuning.

MDS all OEM parts list in Post #128, non MDS some aftermarket parts list in post #210

I also plan on installing new oem water pump, 190° t-stat, new timing chain tensioner, hellcat oil pump (stock 50 psi spring), Royal Purple 20-820 filter, remove center AGS shutters, Nearly free AGS mod, caulk transmission heater bypass, Pacbrake Oil Filter relocation kit.

I noticed while towing a quad on a small 5x8 single axle trailer (<1200lbs) through route 87 mountains in AZ, 100° ambient, I'm getting into the 250° oil temp range with cruise set at 65. Coolant is still at 210°, trans gets up to 200° sometimes. I can’t go more than 45/50 mph over the same route with the camper without the temps creeping into the 260° range.

Anything I'm missing guys? I'm furious that I have to do this but if I'm going to tear into the engine I want to give this truck the best chance to last another 150k miles.

Thanks in advance.

James
 
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Burla

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Don't fix hemi tick with an new cam and lifters until and if there is a misfire code, there is a forum of grumpy people mad because they did. It is indeed hit or miss if that hemi tick ticks after this, I lost count here. You already are trying a lubrication strategy, I'd try that first. That is my 2 cents, good luck either way.

If you are mechanically inclined, try popping off the heads and valve covers and try some things such as adjusting the last or seeing if there is play. But if it were me I'd try to redline thing first, might literally fix this.
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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Don't fix hemi tick with an new cam and lifters until and if there is a misfire code, there is a forum of grumpy people mad because they did. It is indeed hit or miss if that hemi tick ticks after this, I lost count here. You already are trying a lubrication strategy, I'd try that first. That is my 2 cents, good luck either way.

If you are mechanically inclined, try popping off the heads and valve covers and try some things such as adjusting the last or seeing if there is play. But if it were me I'd try to redline thing first, might literally fix this.
Hi again Burla!

Redline is next up - as mentioned in the oil thread the only reason I didn't do it this time was availability before my trip last weekend. I have to say M1 FS 0w40 / XG10575 made my tick worse; louder sounds much more metal / metal tapping.

Wouldn't a new cam and lifters along with the lubrication strategy be a sure fire preventative measure?

I am mechanically inclined - I would be doing all the work myself. I'm pretty set on doing the hellcat oil pump swap at some point, either soon or at 150k with the water pump / coolant flush.
 
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Burla

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If you want me to say something different I can, but I have been here over ten years, I have seen and heard it all, guys who fix "hemi tick" with no mis fire code or with mis fire are hit and miss if this stops hemi tick. If you have a mis fire code, you have no choice, w/o a mis fire you have a choice, just say'n. When you change lifters or a cam, you are assuming that is what causes the tick, that assumption only works part of the time. I'm just preparing you if it still ticks after you know that is a possibility.
 

DILLIGAF

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Wouldn't a new cam and lifters along with the lubrication strategy be a sure fire preventative measure?

Yup along with MDS delete and custom tune. I did this last year and made a world of difference. Don't ever wait for your truck to throw misfire codes. You dont want metal shavings running around in your engine.

V6 Efan swap and clutch fan delete is also a great mod and with HP tuner you can set the fan temps.
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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Hi Burla,

I'm definitely not trying to get you to say something different, more leaning on your learned experience vs my theoretical knowledge (mechanical engineering undergrad, not that that means much lol).

I am 100% assuming that the lifters are what's ticking.
However, my goal isn't solely to get rid of the tick, more make some preventative improvements in an attempt to increase the longevity of the engine.

At this point its all discussion / research. I'm not buying anything until its been thoroughly thought through / tried redline :waytogo:

I sincerely appreciate the prep!

James
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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Yup along with MDS delete and custom tune. I did this last year and made a world of difference. Don't ever wait for your truck to throw misfire codes. You dont want metal shavings running around in your engine.

V6 Efan swap and clutch fan delete is also a great mod and with HP tuner you can set the fan temps.
I have the v6 efan but left the mechanical fan in also. preventative is what I’m thinking and unfortunately I can’t really check if the cam is wearing without taking the heads off.

I’m doing a UOA, just waiting for the kit to come in.

Best case I put new 2017+ lifters and don’t need a cam, at least I’ll have the new lifters and upgraded oil pump along with some routine maintenance (water pump).
 
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crazykid1994

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I have the v6 efan but left the mechanical fan in also. preventative is what I’m thinking and unfortunately I can’t really check if the cam is wearing without taking g the heads off.

I’m doing a UOA, just waiting for the kit to come in.

Best case I put new 2017+ lifters and don’t need a cam, at least I’ll have the new lifters and upgraded oil pump along with some routine maintenance (water pump).
May as well remove the mechanical fan since it’s not really doing anything but causing parasitic drag at this point. Once you remove the shroud and install the v6 fan the mechanical fan is basically useless. Also if the lifters are failing the cam is failing with it. Can try adding in lubeguard into your oil now and see if it helps. It’s absolutely not the exhaust leaking?
 

Burla

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I have the v6 efan but left the mechanical fan in also. preventative is what I’m thinking and unfortunately I can’t really check if the cam is wearing without taking g the heads off.

I’m doing a UOA, just waiting for the kit to come in.

Best case I put new 2017+ lifters and don’t need a cam, at least I’ll have the new lifters and upgraded oil pump along with some routine maintenance (water pump).
It is a quagmire, it's a riddle wrapped in mystery inside an enigma. All I got to say is take in all of the info and make a decision and own it. There is no right answer here, it isn't like well the battery is dead and I'll fix it and all my issues will be solved. Hemi tick isn't a battery, to know if changing lifters and cam would fix hemi tick, you would have to know why your hemi is ticking. I felt real bad a couple months ago when I suggested a guy not fix hemi tick with a cam job and he did it anyway, and he still had hemi tick over 6 grand later. I just feel bad for the dude, so I just hand out information, could be waiting will cause a cam wipe, who knows. But then there are many examples of cam job fixing hemi tick, so who knows. Do a forum search, still ticking after new cam and lifters and read. New cam and lifters you want a regular oil and then if you want switch to redline.
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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May as well remove the mechanical fan since it’s not really doing anything but causing parasitic drag at this point. Once you remove the shroud and install the v6 fan the mechanical fan is basically useless. Also if the lifters are failing the cam is failing with it. Can try adding in lubeguard into your oil now and see if it helps. It’s absolutely not the exhaust leaking?
I can say this isn't correct from trial and error. With just the untuned efan, no mechanical, my coolant temps ran about 10 degrees hotter than stock.

With both the efan and mechanical, my coolant runs about 5 degrees cooler that stock when towing.
 
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