Multiple Misfire Codes...

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UncleTone

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I just replaced the water pump because the bearing was leaking. Started the truck up and everything went well until somewhere around the time when the engine was slightly warmed up. Then all the sudden the engine just stalled out. I mean just stalled out, I didn't hear it asking for fuel at all. I went to start it again and it wouldn't start. I tried maybe 3 times and it finally started but it was an extremely rough start. CEL came on so I checked the codes;

P0203 - Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0300 - Engine Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Fault Detected

I changed both spark plugs in the #3 cylinder, new, and swapped a coil pack from the #1 cylinder just to check and single out a bad coil. I cleared the codes, started the truck and got the same thing, except P0303 is now gone but the other 2 codes are still present. Again the engine idles perfect until it gets warm, then misfires and stalls. I can smell fresh gas as well. So now Im thinking I should just change the injector at cylinder #3 being that I have checked for bad coils and plugs. Is there anything else I would be missing here?? Thanks for any help guys.....
 

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It’s the fuel injector for the #3 cylinder and it’s causing the other 2 issues. Either it’s clogged or dead based on the other 2 codes.
 
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UncleTone

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It’s the fuel injector for the #3 cylinder and it’s causing the other 2 issues. Either it’s clogged or dead based on the other 2 codes.
Thanks!!! Thats basically my same thought but I guess I needed some kind of closure for the cause, lol......
 

OCDTech

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Ohm #3 injector out. Probably somewhere between 11-18 ohms. Confirm by checking a known good injector.
 
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UncleTone

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Update here, new injector was just installed. Engine started great, and I let it warm up. No problems until I drove it around the block. Pulled in from of the house and it stalled again. Scanned the ECU and got the same codes, P0203 and P0300. Where do I go from here?? Could the injector be good and now maybe the coil pack went out?? The plugs are new as well.....
 

Burla

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Doesn't run rageddy at idle or low rpm's?

Don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but around here probably 50% of the time you see a misfire code the cam lob is wiped.
 
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UncleTone

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Doesn't run rageddy at idle or low rpm's?

Don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but around here probably 50% of the time you see a misfire code the cam lob is wiped.
It’s runs choppy at idle, just like its misfiring. When I drive it around the block it ran perfect. Real smooth, then started to misfire.
 

Burla

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Sorry Tone, it is a large problem with the hemi, chances are it is cam swap and lifters. I'd price it at local shops and see what warranty they can give if it is verified.

If you are lucky it is a valve spring.
 
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UncleTone

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Sorry Tone, it is a large problem with the hemi, chances are it is cam swap and lifters. I'd price it at local shops and see what warranty they can give if it is verified.

If you are lucky it is a valve spring.
Well that stinks. Engine runs fine cold and when it warms up it starts running downhill. I’ll start pricing out places
 

Burla

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First you need to verify.

When the engine is cold the oil is thick, it could account why the cam lob is hitting lifter, then when the engine warms to oil is thin and the cam lob is missing the mifter or hitting it with less contact. Ask the local guy what they charge to verify.
 
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UncleTone

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First you need to verify.

When the engine is cold the oil is thick, it could account why the cam lob is hitting lifter, then when the engine warms to oil is thin and the cam lob is missing the mifter or hitting it with less contact. Ask the local guy what they charge to verify.
Alright, thanks!!! And I’m assuming that none mean fmthis would set off any type of cam sensor correct??
 

Burla

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Not that I know of, you have to pull the cover and spin it to diagnose that I know, maybe 1- 1.5 hours labor, maybe a lil more if he has to move everything. The code is the misfire, try all other things first and see if it is a valve spring with cover off, if not everything else, then you are digging deep.
 

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Uncletone, before panicking or making things worse, take the valve cover off and try having someone crank the engine while you watch the rocker arms go up and down paying special attention to cylinder #3. They should all be moving up and down the same amount. This should tell you (after a visual inspection of course) whether the cam and/or lifter are shot. I know the cam and lifter are pretty common but if you start with the simple (remove the valve cover and inspect everything on the top of the cylinder head) you may find something a lot simpler and cheaper than having to replace the camshaft and lifters. Remember Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS method).
 

Burla

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^^ yeah what he said.
 

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Not that I know of, you have to pull the cover and spin it to diagnose that I know, maybe 1- 1.5 hours labor, maybe a lil more if he has to move everything. The code is the misfire, try all other things first and see if it is a valve spring with cover off, if not everything else, then you are digging deep.

For the record, I was in 100% agreement with you but I didn’t want to go for the $1000 repair when he could get lucky with the couple $100 repair.
 
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UncleTone

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As I do my research here, in the case that the problem is the cam lobes, that it is not recommended that if the cam is changed the lifters must be changed as well. But on the other hand, if the lifters are changed it is ok to leave the cam.
 

Burla

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Well, replacing lifters is ok for hemi tick, BUT since you have a mis fire code it is very likely (subjected to the aforementioned verification process) that there isn't contact between lifter's roller bottom and cam lob. So it is somewhat possible that the roller replacement by replacing lifters will get you some contact, but chances are the cam lob is wiped. I have never seen a lifter that was the item that gives, because the old adage "something has to give" holds true, the cam lob is what is giving up and being shaven. It's pretty sad deal because more often then not it was a single lob that was shaved. If you are going to go to the trouble of opening an engine, better off biting the bullet. Have you gotten any quotes? I've seen private shops between $1800 and %4200, big swing there but average maybe in the middle. Dealers have been 2800 to 7200, so you can at least check you dealer, maybe complain to fca, maybe they will help a little, I don't know. It is sad so many hemi's have this happen, there should really be a class action on this deal.
 
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UncleTone

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Well, replacing lifters is ok for hemi tick, BUT since you have a mis fire code it is very likely (subjected to the aforementioned verification process) that there isn't contact between lifter's roller bottom and cam lob. So it is somewhat possible that the roller replacement by replacing lifters will get you some contact, but chances are the cam lob is wiped. I have never seen a lifter that was the item that gives, because the old adage "something has to give" holds true, the cam lob is what is giving up and being shaven. It's pretty sad deal because more often then not it was a single lob that was shaved. If you are going to go to the trouble of opening an engine, better off biting the bullet. Have you gotten any quotes? I've seen private shops between $1800 and %4200, big swing there but average maybe in the middle. Dealers have been 2800 to 7200, so you can at least check you dealer, maybe complain to fca, maybe they will help a little, I don't know. It is sad so many hemi's have this happen, there should really be a class action on this deal.
Agreed, I have gotten any quotes just yet. It has been a bit cold here in the northeast the past 2 days for me to remove the valve cover. Although the weather should change a bit very shortly and once I can verify about the valve spring I’ll will know where I’ll be standing....
 
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