Wild one
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2016
- Posts
- 14,221
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- Ram Year
- 14 Sport
- Engine
- 5.7
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Yes 1/2 is correct I was just googling for the part type honestly didnt pay attention to the 3/4 but ya its 1/2 on the transdapt kitI think most kits use a 1/2"NPT to AN adapter nipple though Chris.
Thx men, I bought that size just now. Just have to go do it now...... MAGA. Lock the RAGGEDY ***** up already, oops that just slipped out.Yes 1/2 is correct I was just googling for the part type honestly didnt pay attention to the 3/4 but ya its 1/2 on the transdapt kit
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Just a thought about different metals and what they do next to each other. MAGAIf anyone is using AN fittings, you do not have to use anything on the threads. they are desighned
to be used dry. don't be a torque monster on the fittings either, just good and snug. the 37* taper is the seal.
You can use thread sealer on the NPT to AN fittings, into the adopter bases.
Dave
She would like everything towed in 1 trip! I am not comfortable with that.
Hows it holding up now? Any pics or part numbers?
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Alright, so finished up the oil filter relocation kit, I was getting angry about getting oil all over my rack and front cross member every time I change the oil, the filter's also a PITA to get to so I wanted an easier place to get at. I know there's lots of tricks to getting the filter off without any mess but the location is still a PITA and I change the oil very regularly with my setup so I want simple and easy. It was pretty straightforward to install, tool requirements were very minimal: a drill, 5/16 drill bit, ratchet with socket (or flat head screwdriver bit), and a crescent wrench (or proper sized box-end).
I used the Tansdapt 1127 remote filter kit, it's not listed for the Ram, but the filter kit works perfectly since we have a 22mm x 1.5 thread pitch with a 2 1/2" ID filter flange. I got my kit from Jegs for $70, very reasonable price I think.
Now, the kit comes with all the hoses and fittings to install everything except the teflon tape for the threaded fittings. Since I'm a stickler for how it looks as well as how it functions, I changed out the brass fittings for some 90 deg -10AN fittings and some Hose Candy hose wrap to clean it up for a better looking install. If you don't care about looks as much, the install is the exact same, just use the supplied brass fittings instead of the -AN fittings.
I installed the remote filter base vertically on the passenger's side inner frame rail but it can be installed horizontally as well with no issues if you want a cleaner install with the brass fittings. I made a paper template of the filter holes and transferred it onto the frame rail then drilled the 5/16" holes and used the ratchet to tighten it to the frame using the supplied screws. I tightened the 1/2" NPT to -10AN fittings into place before installation because of how close I wanted it to the radiator. 90 deg fittings in place just for clearance testing
Then I installed the filter by-pass base onto the block's oil filter mount. This just threads into place, the instructions say that if it doesn't thread on all the way that a few threads will need to be cut off the factory nipple, but this wasn't required. They say to just tighten it as a normal oil filter, but I did take my filter wrench to it to get it the last full turn since there's less to grab compared to a normal filter.
Both the bypass base and the remote base are labelled for the hoses IN/OUT so it's not hard to set it up, but I still managed to do screw it up the first time.
I attached one set of fittings to one end of the supplied hoses, I then attached the hoses to the bypass base and laid them out to get the proper length, marked them and cut them. I then installed the hose wrap and the other set of fittings.
Install the OUT hose from the bypass base to the IN on the remote base, and the OUT from the remote base to the IN on the bypass base. So easy I managed to screw it up, I know.
After all is said and done, I installed a new RP oil filter. It should be noted that the remote base does not use the standard Dodge 22mm x 1.5 oil filter, it uses the more common 3/4"-16 filters which happen to be cheaper too.
Once it was all installed, I fired up the truck, had zero oil pressure because I'm an idiot. Swapped the hoses on the remote filter base and retried, oil pressure jumped right up and all was good with the world. Once I shut it down after running for a while, I checked for leaks, had none, topped up the engine oil as required. My oil changes will now need 7-8 quarts instead of the normal 7 to account for the additional hoses and filter volumes.
I believe you are talking about where the tow hook mountsWill someone tell me what the two posts on front of frame behind/under radiator are for?
Can I hang a bracket off the passenger side under radiator and behind the front bumper for the oil filter relocation assy on it?
Is it used for some type of maintenance/alignment? View attachment 182437
View attachment 182702 View attachment 182702I got started today. I'm waiting on AN10 Black SS tubing. I installed the Remote Base today. I installed with some 1/4"x28 x 1 /1/4" SS Bolts and Chinese lock nuts. I'm gonna use 90 degree AN10 fittings on the Relocation base and 45 degree AN10 fittings on the bypass base. Just waiting........ While I'm waiting here U go!
A burglar broke into a house one night. He shined his flashlight around looking for valuables, and when he picked up a VCR to place in his sack, a strange, disembodied voice echoed from the dark saying, "Jesus is watching you."
He nearly jumped out of his skin, clicked his flashlight out and froze.
When he heard nothing more after a bit, he shook his head, promised himself a long vacation after his next big score, then clicked the light back on and began searching for more valuables.
Just as he pulled the stereo out so he could disconnect the wires, clear as a bell he heard, "Jesus is watching you."
Freaked out, he shined his light around frantically, looking for the source of the voice. Finally, in the corner of the room, his flashlight beam came to rest on a parrot...
"Did you say that?" he hissed at the parrot.
"Yep," the parrot confessed, then squawked, "I'm just trying to warn you."
The burglar relaxed. "Warn me, huh? Who the heck are you?"
"Moses," replied the bird.
"Moses?" the burglar laughed. "What kind of people would name a parrot Moses?"
The bird promptly answered, "Probably the same kind of people that would name a 140 pound Rottweiler Jesus."
I just installed the transadapter kit and when I started the engine oil was pouring from the block adapter. Shut it off, removed the 10 AN lines and tightened the adapter some more. Topped off the oil, started it again and still pouring out. Couldn't see where it was leaking from, there was a lot of oil! Shut it off, removed the oil lines and bench tested them with an air setup and a gauge, they held solid at 70 psi with no leaks. So it must be the engine block adapter O-ring. I took it off and installed my old filter, then topped it off again, to be dealt with on another day. I think the O-ring must have been improperly seated, or possibly didn't thread on enough to make the oring seal? If anyone had a similiar problem let me know. The kit does state that there could be a possibility that the adapter won't thread on enough to make a seal without removing a few threads from the original filter site. I couldn't find any posts where anyone actually had this issue. Man that would be a real chore to correct. Next time I guess I could install the adapter and plug the ports, start it up and make sure that seal is made, a temporary straight thru without a filter. It really hurts to see Redline oil pouring out on the floor.
Interesting... I had the transdapt kit on my 2010...and was going to install on my 16...could you not just replace the thread in adapter for the filter to the bolt with the older style?Think I read somewhere there was an update to the blocks filter fitting,and the later version is longer,so i'm guessing CK94 is right,you might be bottomed out on the threads.The block adapter should unscrew so you could trim it on a bench.
Interesting... I had the transdapt kit on my 2010...and was going to install on my 16...could you not just replace the thread in adapter for the filter to the bolt with the older style?
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I wonder why theyd change it but good to know... I may still attempt to just install it the way it is and see if I run into the same issue...with hopes I wontProbably,but I think you'd need to hunt up the older adapter fitting from a wrecker etc.,as it's my understanding if you buy a new adapter fitting from the dealer,they are the updated longer fitting now,even if ordered for an earlier truck
I wonder why theyd change it but good to know... I may still attempt to just install it the way it is and see if I run into the same issue...with hopes I wont
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The nipple is part of the oil cooler housing. I’m going to guess the nipple there is not to long but more of a seating issue with the adapter. Either not sitting flat or the o ring. In order to pull the nipple you would have to pull the oil cooler off.What would be the best way to remove the metric thread nipple without damaging the threads on it should I determine that it needs to be trimmed a bit? It is possible that the O-ring had squished out as suggested in the post above. I knew better but I did not take pains to make sure it was evenly seated, and I should have used a light grease to hold it uniformly in place. Believe me when I get back into it I will go down the checklist of all the possible problems you guys have mentioned.