Synthetic Motor Oil Poll 2017

[knightjp]

Small update. Apparently the dealer didn't check very well. Got good advice from member Knightjp re the two sources of tick. Put a long rod on the vavle covers and manifold just after start up. The noise is not coming from the lifters. I am almost positive it is from the manifold, either warped or broken stud(s). Have ordered one of those cheap auto stethescopes since I can't find my old one. Will isolated to location. What got me thinking is it is taking longer for the clack to go away and was starting to sound more like exhaust leak. Amazing how close the initial warped manifiold and lifter thacka thacka sounds a like.

Glad it wasn't the lifters. I would suggest using Redline 5W30 just to avoid any issues down the road. However if you still have the warranty, maybe check with the dealer and ask them to use Mopar 5W30 for all the oil changes if they can. That way it protects your engine and you're not going to have any nasty surprises down the line after the warranty runs out. Who knows, maybe they are already using Mopar 5W30.
The dealer over here in Dubai alternates in between Mopar 5W30 and 5W20; whichever they have plenty of stock at the time. They will make sure to use 5W30 in the engine as long as it comes to them for service and is under warranty.

 

[Southbay]

Ok, I've been reading just about everything I can about synthetic oil and filters pertaining to the Hemi on this forum, other forums and bob's.....I've basically narrowed it down to using either PP or PUP 5w-20 and a Fram Titanium filter which I was able to get a hold of a few that still have the wire backed full synthetic media in them, making them the same thing as the OG Fram Ultra's.

I have a 2013 1500 with the 5.7, 80K miles and no tick. Bought it a year ago and dropped whatever was in it, put a Mopar filter and Fram High Mileage Synthetic 5w-20 in it, just because I had 6 quarts of it around already. It's been in there for a bit over a year and like 4700 miles. I do anywhere from 4-5K miles a year, so it's a once a year OCI for me, lot of short tripping with occasional longer/highway trips.

My main question, even after all the reading I have done, regarding PP vs PUP, is am I gong to see any difference running PP 5w-20 over PUP 5w-20 with a 1yr OCI and 4-5K miles on that OCI? Is one better than the other for this short interval? Any reason to just go for the PUP? PP is readily available by me for $26 for a 5 gallon jug and PUP I'd have to order online for $35 a jug. Don't care about the $20 extra for two jugs or waiting 2 days for it, just want to see there's any reason to do so.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Burla]

If indeed you read everything you would know the only real way to find out is try a uoa on two runs, one of each oil. It is too bad you weren't here when Pennzoil paid a bunch of us to do that, they gave us free oil and paid for 2 uoa's. If I was making your choice and I didnt want to do a uoa, I'd answer myself this way, if I was wanting a longer interval I'd opt for pup, if I was on a 4k or less mile interval I would opt for PP.

 

[Southbay]

Thanks Burla, didn't read everything....read just about everything and a good portion of it was posts of yours, on multiple sites. I did read about that Penzoil UOA program, that would've been cool. Well I basically came to the same conclusion that PP would work just fine for a 1yr/low mileage OCI. Just wasn't sure if PUP had anything extra in it that would be beneficial to my engine in that same time, other than giving a longer OCI. If so the extra $20 wouldn't matter, but if not the PP suits me just fine. Thanks!

 

[HEMIMANN]

PUP was advertised as having superior engine cleanliness, which means it has more detergent/dispersant additive.

To me, that's important in modern engines subject to higher loads and temps, or in the case of GDI engines, higher soot blowby.

 

[06 Dodge]

You state you drive many short trips, my self I would use PUP being it has more additives then PP, those short trip can be very hard on your oil, its good to see at least your willing to use synthetic oil...

 

[knightjp]

Most of my running are short trips. I wonder how Redline holds up to that kind of running. That is what I'm using right now.
I was thinking of using Amsoil 5W30 Signature series for the next oil change or even maybe 5W40. Seems to have more votes on poll here.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Most of my running are short trips. I wonder how Redline holds up to that kind of running. That is what I'm using right now.
I was thinking of using Amsoil 5W30 Signature series for the next oil change or even maybe 5W40. Seems to have more votes on poll here.

Yeah, the base oil isn't the issue for short light load trips - it's how much additive their is to hold all the incomplete combustion crap in solution until it's saturated and starts depositing. Only UOA can tell you, hence most of us keep OCIs short to 5,000 miles.

Long haul guys can go for max OCI via UOA to minimize the expense of oil changes, since they put on miles much faster. Truckers and contractors do this.

 

[Gero]

Is ram now recommending 0w20 oil for their hemi equipped new trucks now?

 

[Hemi395]

I'm sure they are by now, it yields .0000000000000000012% better fuel economy than 5w20

 

[knightjp]

Is ram now recommending 0w20 oil for their hemi equipped new trucks now?

According to the manual its 5W20.

 

[knightjp]

I came across this site recently and thought I would do a search out of curiosity. The results made me even more curious.
https://oilincar.com/dodge/ram/v_4-2009-2014.php

According to this site, I should be using 5W40 in Winter and 20W40 in Summer when temperatures are over 45.C.
Interestingly enough, 20W40 is the weight Toyota is using as standard for the oil changes here in their cars. And those are considered as the most "reliable" in the world.

 

[knightjp]

@Burla What do you think about the link I posted. I notice that it mentions semi-synthetic oil rather than full synthetic.
Do you think using 20W40 fully synthetic in the Summer months be a bad idea?

 

[Burla]

Sae 40 or 20w40 has lost popularity because of lack of start up protection, but in your neck of the woods it could be a move. It is only spec'd in motorcycles as those tear up oil. I don't put a lot of credibility in that post, just look at the brands they recommend, so is that a foreign source? I don't believe in semi synthetics, certainly not over group 3 oil and they are not close as good as the oil you have been using group 4-5. Most top brands don't even have 20w40, but amsoil does, if I was gonna try it I'd go amsoil vtwin 20w40. We never tested this weight against hemi tick, I can say with the number of piston slaps we got with this oil this would likely be way worse at piston slap.

 

[Burn2k12Ram]

double post

 

[knightjp]

Both myself and another person are looking for Redline 5W40 in our neck of the woods to fight HEMI ticks.
However we are not able to get it. There is no stock. Is there another brand that we can choose?
Also I'm seeing Castrol Edge and Castrol Magnatec. What is the difference in between the two?

 

[knightjp]

So far there are two engines with a mild Hemi ticks on and our search for Redline 5w40 or even 5w30 is pretty much out. There is no stock.
I've done a change of Amsoil 5w30 and it hasn't helped.
The interesting thing is I bought my current truck used and based on the history, the previous owner used Mopar brand oil, alternating in between 5w20 and 5w30, depending on which was available at the time.
There was a very slight ticking sound in the engine when my mechanic inspected it.
Once I got the truck, the first thing I did was complete fluid change - engine, gearbox, diff, etc. We used Redline 5w30 and the ticking noise went away. We continued to use Redline for every oil change since.
Looking at the situation right now, it seems that Redline didn't really prevent the tick from happening.

@Burla suggested going thicker to see if that works.
I'm thinking about using Castrol since that is the only one on the market with the thicker oils - 10w40
Not sure about it moly content though.
I came across this..

https://www.amazon.ae/Liqui-Moly-Molygen-Generation-Synthetic/dp/B078H8B2YR/ref=sr_1_10?crid=16CUNYZO0WCOE&keywords=Ram%2B1500%2B2014%2Bengine%2Boil&qid=1671700861&sprefix=ram%2B1500%2B2014%2Bengine%2Boil%2Caps%2C293&sr=8-10&th=1

What is the opinion of this?

So far these are the options in my mind.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Members report good results with M1 FS 0W-40. It may have enough moly, if not just add Lubegard.

Curious - I know you can't get Red Line, but when you did you said it stopped your tick but then said it didn't. What do you mean?

 

[knightjp]

Members report good results with M1 FS 0W-40. It may have enough moly, if not just add Lubegard.

Curious - I know you can't get Red Line, but when you did you said it stopped your tick but then said it didn't. What do you mean?

@HEMIMANN Great question.. Maybe I should have explained it better.
I bought the truck used and I took my mechanic along to inspect the vehicle. He said that on the first start and during the test drive, he could hear a bit of tick on the engine. I couldn't hear anything. But he said it was there. After I bought the truck I did an oil change with Redline 5W30 and (according to the mechanic), the tick disappeared. From the time of purchase, I've been using Redline 5W30 for every single oil change every 10,000kms.
Unfortunately, a couple of months now, I've noticed some sort of ticking in the engine. I've got a thread going on it, where I recorded a few videos for reference.

Ticking in the engine...

Yes us dudes that had dealt with hemi tick so much are more sensitive to engine noises, but good news that wasnt metallic tick brother, peace from USA.

www.ramforum.com

So I'm sort of thinking that Redline 5w30 didn't really prevent tick from happening, which was my thinking the whole time that I was using it. Or, maybe Redline only masks the tick until it gets too worse to hide. I'm not sure.

I still like Redline and I would use it again. However I'm not sure whether I should or start using a different one - especially now, since Redline not being available.
I came across a thread talking about HPL.

Should this be my second choice if Redline is not available?

In my search today, I came across this link..
HEMI tick finally cured
Someone used seafoam to cure his HEMI tick and then did an oil change with Valvoline. I'm thinking of trying this out and using Castrol EDGE or Magnatec. The only thing is that I don't know what to choose in between the two. Which one would better suit an engine with MDS?

 

[HEMIMANN]

Here's a summary direct from HPL. You'll want a high side vis of course being in the Emirates, no need for flow concern. What's the minimum overnight temp there?

HPL is highly recommended, not sure they ship to there? All their oils are spike with moly, but they don't offer all vis weights in each category. I wrote a summary up in Syn Oil thread. Use either the Premium Plus or Super Car oil series, if you can get them there. They both are 100% Group IV PAO.

From HPL:
Below is a summary of the different offerings in the passenger car category:

PCMO - is an oil that meets and/or exceeds the API SP/dexos1 gen 2 performance specifications. It is a multi-synthetic oil containing a group III base oil, OCP VII, ester, and AN. - good in cold climates
PCMO Premium - same as above but with a star polymer instead of OCP - very good in cold climates
PCMO Premium Plus - same as the premium but made with a group IV PAO - extremely good in cold climates

EURO - These are euro specification multi-synthetic oils (group III, IV, ester, AN), each viscosity grade meets/exceeds the performance specifications of a different set of specs
SuperCar - These are euro specification multi-synthetic oils made with Group IV PAOs, esters, and AN. We originally made this to sell to a niche market of supercar owners - targeting the 0W-40 viscosity. Same as the EURO oil above, each viscosity meets/exceeds the performance specifications of a different set of specs

All the above oils are considered to be “long drain” oils - but should always be validated in each application with used oil analysis.

I hope this helps answer your questions, please let me know if there is anything else I can do to help!

Best,
David Stoiber / Plant Manager