Transmission fluid dark before 30k Miles

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U&A

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I don’t have a half ton but 11 quarts seems like a lot.

with my +2 transmission pan I put in around 8 1/2. If I remember right my transfer case took three quarts max.




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Burla

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Maybe later I will take Syn's pump and take some out so we all can see the color, see how red it is/isn't. After I mix it up real good getting dat burger.
 
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Trans Oil temp was a good 4F lower all the way. Also, accidentally found out that TH makes it run cooler.
 

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Trans Oil temp was a good 4F lower all the way. Also, accidentally found out that TH makes it run cooler.

Thank you sir for the videos. Very informative for all. Thanks for taking the time Mike.

You do just one more suck and fill ( had to say it[emoji1787]) and you will be amazed in the color change.


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Burla

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Thank you sir for the videos. Very informative for all. Thanks for taking the time Mike.

You do just one more suck and fill ( had to say it[emoji1787]) and you will be amazed in the color change.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

For sure, I think Ronnie always being on a low OCI for transmsions and all the things Corey found I'd say I have changed my opinion on what a safe interval is. I'd say probably one of the best addon's you can get is a pan with a bolt, and like the transmsons guys say, do it every 10k miles, man that is hard to say, lol. I think if you are doing the cheap stuff like Maxlife just do it every 10k miles, at 17 bucks that is pretty cheap maintenance item for a transmsion. Maybe if you are doing redline do it every 20k miles.

I almost wish I had done a bunch of maxlife first as a flush, and then drop the pan after I got it red, maybe 4 gallons of ****** flushes. If I had to do over, that is what I would have done. 4 quick flushes, then dropped pan went to redline and put a drain bolt in. Only because of the color of my fluid. Next time for sure. meanwhile, I have the filter and housing and will see if I can find a synthetic.

Corey was right as always, transmsion pan upgrade almost essential imo. Every week we have someone new with a tranny issue, they are becoming as common as lifters.
 

R.L.K.

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Yep , I drain and refill every April regardless of the miles on mine . I believe this time will make my 4th drain and refill with Redline C+ [emoji16]
I did my first with the pan swap about 45k if I remember correctly , then again a few k miles later , then again just to get all Redline C+ in there . So my next should be #4 .and I'll have about 75k on the tranny at that point .
I plan to change the filters at 100k and then probably every [emoji817] k after that ...I average about 300 k per vehicle I purchase for myself .


The Mag- Hytec extra capacity pan with the drain plug is definitely one of my favorite mods [emoji106]if nothing else it's peace of mind for me .



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U&A

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Im still sticking with my guns. A while ago I decided to do a once a year fluid change just like Ron but im doing filters every other year.

This year is my filter and fluid change.


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R.L.K.

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The only reason I choose to go longer on the filters is because annually I'll be draining and refilling about 60% of the fluid , I may choose to change the filters earlier because the spin on filter is paper Mopar filter ....did we ever find a synthetic I need ?

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The only reason I choose to go longer on the filters is because annually I'll be draining and refilling about 60% of the fluid , I may choose to change the filters earlier because the spin on filter is paper Mopar filter ....did we ever find a synthetic I need ?

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No.

But honestly all I think we need is to look for a filter of the same external dimensions and O-ring size and that has a 20 x 1.5 thread.




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Burla

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I like the setup, the spin on filter leads into the sump filter, so the sump filter will protect the transmsion 100%, the spin of filter is useless, I'd rather have it hollow with no media just to keep line pressure. I have the old filters ron, when I get time I will go to auto parts store and see what I can find as an option. The sump filter will last 100k no problem, it is synthetoc and substancial, high flow as well.
 
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Burla

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I like changing spin on every two years, if you have that kind of time. That will protect that tranny good! I wonder when I finally get where I'm going and have more time on my hands if I'm gonna feel like getting under the truck when I'm all old and ****.
 
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potential good news, Corey found out that the previous generation transmsion was opposite to what I was thinking. The bottom line in that tranny is the return line, so in theory you can have a safe flush, if this transmision is the same, and my best guess it is. That is also to the flow diagram I found posted, so this should be verified.

thanks h395 pdf

also, that is how you should deal with the old rtv, use a circular wire brush or rasp.
 
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Burla

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I did my wife's toyota 4 banger today, man those are a joy to work on, reminds me of old vw engines. Anyhow, 40k miles and the fluid was black, no red ting left. I have a new understanding of this now. I was looking on the youtube and some dude noticed the same thing about his toyota, all freeway miles 4 years old 50k miles and his fluid was black as well.

My old Fords I changed twice, two different f bodies, one at 60k miles and the other at 70k miles, and the fluid was still red or redish. Both times redder then both of my last flushes. Man, I'd say from now on 30k is the longest I'd think about going on any tranny fluid, and my ram will see 20k interval with a quick flush.

I tell ya, d6 is THIN compared to c+, lol. Man it comes out like water, no wonder the zf is having issues guys. I'd have half a mind to try c+ in there if it was me. I can't believe they pre heat that thin **** and call it lifetime fluid, makes me sick to think of what they are doing here, Japan. zf guys find a way to make it easier to service the tranny. I think they have a new pan that makes it easier? Even if you over fill it and take some out, just enough to allow for expansion, seams like a good play? I'd be so temped to use c+ in that 8 speed. Since they pre heat it it will be thin anyhow. It operates at only 1 viscosity higher.
 

joshuaeb09

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I did my wife's toyota 4 banger today, man those are a joy to work on, reminds me of old vw engines. Anyhow, 40k miles and the fluid was black, no red ting left. I have a new understanding of this now. I was looking on the youtube and some dude noticed the same thing about his toyota, all freeway miles 4 years old 50k miles and his fluid was black as well.

My old Fords I changed twice, two different f bodies, one at 60k miles and the other at 70k miles, and the fluid was still red or redish. Both times redder then both of my last flushes. Man, I'd say from now on 30k is the longest I'd think about going on any tranny fluid, and my ram will see 20k interval with a quick flush.

I tell ya, d6 is THIN compared to c+, lol. Man it comes out like water, no wonder the zf is having issues guys. I'd have half a mind to try c+ in there if it was me. I can't believe they pre heat that thin **** and call it lifetime fluid, makes me sick to think of what they are doing here, Japan. zf guys find a way to make it easier to service the tranny. I think they have a new pan that makes it easier? Even if you over fill it and take some out, just enough to allow for expansion, seams like a good play? I'd be so temped to use c+ in that 8 speed. Since they pre heat it it will be thin anyhow. It operates at only 1 viscosity higher.

I probably wouldn't do that. I've read on some BMW forums of guys having shifting issues running straight D4 in the ZF units. I could see doing a quart or two to add a little visc to the D6 if you make it's life hard, but I think the biggest issue is the fact ZF says the damn thing needs to be serviced as soon as 50k. That's a far cry from Mopar claiming lifetime.

https://www.zf.com/global/media/med...eifend_1/ZF_SI_Oelwechselkit_8HP_50130_EN.pdf
 

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FWIW, before I joined this forum, I always did tranny flushes every 100k miles and never had a single tranny issues ever. All Dodge trucks from a '95 half ton, '04 half ton, '14 half ton.
 

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I think moving forward I'll do the Syn transmission transfusion every 10k on top of my 30k pan drop. Just suck out 1 gallon through the dipstick and drop 4 quarts back in.

Couldn't find a synthetic spin on filter for the transmission, looked all over the web. It's clearly a week point, between it being paper filter media and cheep plastic threads, 30k and it's shot.

I'm surprised the aftermarket hasn't developed one. Having a synthetic filter with good quality metal threads welded right to the base plate would be sweet. I think they could sell them for $50; I'd pay it.
 

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I think moving forward I'll do the Syn transmission transfusion every 10k on top of my 30k pan drop. Just suck out 1 gallon through the dipstick and drop 4 quarts back in.

Couldn't find a synthetic spin on filter for the transmission, looked all over the web. It's clearly a week point, between it being paper filter media and cheep plastic threads, 30k and it's shot.

I'm surprised the aftermarket hasn't developed one. Having a synthetic filter with good quality metal threads welded right to the base plate would be sweet. I think they could sell them for $50; I'd pay it.
Well said Hammerhead [emoji1360][emoji1360]

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U&A

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Going to see if the dealer has my fliters tomorrow. I will then take the overall dimensions and the O-ring dimensions and see if i can find something that is the same in a synthetic option.

Whatever it may be. Hell even a WIX XP would be better.

I really like using their site for researching filter sizes and what not. They list all that information for every filter and you can search based on dimensions



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